rhino6303

I changed the radiator and thermostat in the Tribeca today. It's stupid how much extra stuff you have to remove to get the radiator out on a 3.6L.

I'm pretty sure the black connector goes to the back of the hvac panel.

The orange/white wire is generally for illumination.

Please take pictures and show all connections for your setup. Did you use the adapter harness for the hvac?

The perrin inlet for the legacy is slightly different than the sti. As you mentioned, one difference is the vacuum fitting locations. The other difference is the BPV tube location. The legacy tube is further forward than the sti. The inlet itself does look to have a minor difference in diameter too.

Be sure to get the proper harnesses from tightfitfab or svdx.

Also found this link. Interesting information here.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/jdm-hvac-self-diagnostic.537454/

Check fuse 15.

I don't think OP is in the US.

Location?

Pull the radio/hvac and triple check all wiring connections and grounds.

9 hours ago, Deltaking said:

So I replaced the VVTs a few day and my throttle response is much better. What I find interesting is that the part number which was in my vehicle does not match the part number Subaru gives me.

Original VVTs - AA0800871 

Subaru Part Number - AA08091724 / 10921AA080

So was the incorrect part installed on my car all a long or am I missing something?

I'm pretty sure the 871 is just the older part number. All searching relates the 871 to the 080 part.

9 hours ago, Deltaking said:

So Fuel Pump, Injects and VVTs have been replaced. Still sit with the one issue where the car takes 5 secs to start after standing (When cold) once warm it start immediately like normal. Can't isolate it as I pulled the pump again and saw nothing wrong with the installation... Unless I've got vacuum on the pipes which connect to the top of the pump housing... but that still wouldn't explain the issue only occurring on cold start would it?

Also I broke this part along the way, so brittle and so old... (Part Number: 11852AA091)

Was wondering if I couldn't just replace it with 3 pipes and a T to go to the manifold and be done with it. Availability yet another issue. Pipes are also pretty cracked coming from the heads to this hard plastic pipe.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2007_Legacy-GT-B-SEDAN/Intercooler-Pipe-PCV-Valve-Hose-Pipe-PCV/49223810/11852AA091.html

You can remove the pipe and just use hose and a tee.

6 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Not to be a stick in your sarcastic mud, but I just swapped in @rhino6303's old 5MT into the car by myself on jack stands and had an absolutely blast swearing at the underside of my car for 12+hrs, as I kicked tools around trying to crawl out. A second set of hands would've helped shave down a couple minutes. Only every had the trans out twice. Engine out twice. Thinking I'll pull the engine next time I do a clutch to compare. Here's to the next 70K hard miles!

Degreased and cleaned. TS solid shifter linkage re-installed. TS short shifter reinstalled. WL crossmember bushings transferred. STi mount transferred. Kartboy shifter bushings reconnected. And best of all, TALLER GEARS! The LGT 5spd is MUCH more friendly than the Outback 5spd for highway driving, and I never want to hear y'all complain about it again until you've put miles on an Outback 2.5i 5spd (OBXTs have the same gears as LGTs, but different F/D). 

Nice. Shifts well still?

1 hour ago, RumblyXT said:

By the way, do you guys know how much oil the compressor takes? 

From the research I did, I found a website that stated to put the same amount of drained oil from unit being replaced with new fresh oil into the compressor and the FSM seems to states about the same.

However, measuring from the bottle I put the drained oil in, it seems to be close to 13 oz of oil and that's what I put back in. Did I put too much oil in it?

Oddly enough, the evaporator when replaced also take 3.9 oz..

Anyone knows the HVAC System Total Oil Capacity?? I don't want to overfill it with oil that it may damage the compressor..

 

I believe it is 150mL of oil for the system. If you look at any new compressor, they are prefilled woith the proper amount and it states 150mL.

Yes you should worry and yes you should fix it. You'll need a new intake manifold and the hoses/fittings as well.

9 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Not a good day for me and my LGT yesterday.

Went to lunch break and when pulling from the parking lot to go back to the office, car started buckling like crazy, stalled and had some cray misfires (black smoke and pops from the exhaust). Barely made it to the office, car jerking, misfiring and stalling several times. Going back home after work was no fun at all but I made it.

CEL P0340 Camshaft position sensor. I know where crankshaft position sensor is but this one I did not run into yet. Not sure what caused it, may be yesterday being the first really warm day (75) and car sitting in the sun. Car starts fine and idles perfectly until I get moving and RPMs go 3K and above.

That sounds like the sensor might actually be bad. Our Tribeca had one fail and it would barely drive (bucking, etc).

I believe bank 1 is right side head (above cylinder 3).

You might check alternator voltage output just to be sure. A bad alternator can cause many electrical faults.

You might have a fueling issue. The pump might not be supplying enough fuel or getting enough current. Do you have a way of tracking fuel pressure?

https://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59

I have one of these on my lifted impreza. It works well.

I believe those are the correct part numbers for the pipes. I did find a part number for the clamps near the waterpump pipe to be different than the one you listed (805922090). The prices for the pipes are quite obnoxious though.

I think LM22090 is good. It says it's not for use in limited slip differentials which means there are no friction modifiers.

If you're not set on Liqui Moly, use Motul gear 300 or Mobil Delvac. Both work well in subaru 5MTs.

I believe GL-5 oils are all hypoid gear oils. You just need a GL-5 within friction modifiers. This is due to the fact that the front differential of the 5MT is inside of the transmission (shares the fluid). The center diff is sealed so it doesn't matter. So we need a gear oil robust enough for the front diff and mild enough to not eat the synchros.

You just need to use fluid without friction modifiers. Contact liqui moly and ask if it isn't clear on their descriptions. 

Did you add petroleum jelly or anything to prime the oil pump?

You can try this: Remove the oil filter and crank until oil comes out. Then add filter, replenish oil and start.

2 hours ago, killjoy323232 said:

Well, I got off my rear to check a couple things out on the never-ending pile of woe that is my XT. Drove it to my dad's work, where they've got an inspection pit, to try to change the plugs and swap the coils (chasing a got-dang misfire that I can't seem to catch in the act - it'll either occasionally miss, or drop a cylinder entirely for a bit, then catch up).

I ended up changing the driver's side coils with some used OEM ones (connector on the front one was RTV'd in, and the no-name, third party coil fell apart in my hands as I was removing it - good thing I had spares!). Left the plugs alone, because the "14mm" swivel spark plug socket I bought wasn't even close to fitting the new plugs (unless the NGKs are actually 5/8ths - that'd be my luck). It seemed to miss less, but I had the A/C on and was driving into the wind. I'll keep an eye on it and see if there's an improvement. If not, I'll swap the other coils and install plugs at the same time.

More infuriating, though, is it gave me a chance to look at my turbo oil drain, because I suspected a leak there. The "new" hose (that I paid a shop an insane amount of money to replace) is twisted and damn near torn to shreds, so now, I have to find a creative way to replace that.

The spark plugs are normal 5/8 socket plugs.

What is wrong with your current toe bolts?

I agree with the linkage needing adjustment.

Alright, who bought the last stock of ntk vv0045 on rockauto.com? Lol.