Rittmeister

Soon after getting my car (2009 2.5i, non-turbo) I determined that the A/C idler pulley was making a squeaking noise. I ordered a Gates replacement from RockAuto and installed it within two weeks of buying the car. Sometime in the last month it's started squeaking again and is getting worse. With COVID etc I have only driven the car about 3000 miles in that time, so I'm pretty annoyed that it's already failing. I plan to take advantage of RockAuto's warranty but I'm wondering if anyone has had better luck with a different brand of replacement. Again this one was a Gates (these are the belt people after all!) but I'd try something else. Any info appreciated.

Found locally.

Still on the hunt.

Thanks for the pics guys. Nice. Looks like 3/8" is definitely what I need. I don't want to get too far in the weeds but... I hadn't considered wheel spacers/adapters in terms of weight. My take on them was always that the substantial change in offset put more flex/leverage/whatever on the hub, causing the wear - but the weight might be the factor instead. Interesting thought, is all I'm saying. As I said earlier, I think cost will be the ultimate factor that decides me against those STi wheels though, I just won't be able to justify it for my DD Dadwagon

If you posted a pic, I can't see it Not sure I agree on the TSR6 - it has 6 split spokes where the STI wheels have 7. The Rota Special Stage is a closer match (and is under consideration). Thanks for the thought though. I somewhat agree on the hub adapter issue, but I'm not sure a 15mm adapter would introduce too much more wear in the long run. The cost of the whole setup will probably be the thing that kills the idea for me. Thanks for the rec on the 3/8" spacers, that's where I was leaning. I'd be curious to see your picture if you have the time.

I'm on the verge of lowering my '09 Outback on Legacy-spec Konis and H&R Sport springs. After searching, I'm seeing two popular sizes of saggy butt spacer to use on this setup - 3/8" and 1/2". I'm hoping for a pretty level static ride though I'd tolerate the tiniest bit of front rake, as this is the family road-trip vehicle (in addition to being my DD) and gets loaded down a couple times a year, so I don't want the back end dragging... I am currently running stock OB wheels and tires; I may go to 18" 2011 STI wheels (with lug adapters for the bolt pattern obvs) someday, so if that factors in that'd be helpful too - though everything I can find so far doesn't make me think that matters much. I'd be grateful for the current thinking on which spacer to get. Thanks for looking!

Looking for a pair of front struts from an '05-09 Legacy. Leaking/blown is OK as long as the exterior is in good shape, I need them for a Koni insert install. Don't need springs/top mounts, just the struts themselves. Bilstein and Outback units need not apply. Please inbox me if you have something available. Thanks for looking!

What's the "Koni lowering suspension" you mentioned? Or are you just referring to Koni dampers with some kind of lowering springs?

Yup, I mentioned that up top They're part of what I'm trying to find out. Let me ask a different way: has anyone actually used Gabriel/FCS or any of the other dirt-cheap strut offerings as housings for Koni inserts? I'm trying to find out if the Konis fit into them properly. I wouldn't trust them to use as-is (I doubt they'd last long) but I'm wondering about the size of the casings/housings themselves and if they're in spec to use for Konis.

Obviously OEMs will fit. I have more of a problem finding a set (no real junkyards near me to speak of) than with some rust, I just don't want to pay to ship used rusty parts, if that makes sense. I'm most interested if the cheapo brands are sized properly to accept the Koni inserts, hence my questions.

I am looking into installing Konis on my wagon (2009 OB lowered w/Legacy parts). It's currently running Bilsteins so I need a pair of front struts to use for the Koni inserts, since it's my understanding the Bilsteins won't work for that. I have not found anyone parting a car near me and I'm not really willing to pay what it'd cost to ship struts or assemblies to wind up with surface-rusty old parts, although if it was cheap enough it's an option; I've got a wire wheel and rattle cans lol. I've used KYB in the past on other cars, but I kinda hate to buy brand-new perfectly good struts just to gut them and I'm trying to keep costs down this time around. SO - has anyone used any of the lower-cost options, particularly from RockAuto? Gabriel and FCS are each about $70 for both fronts before shipping, which seems a decent deal for nice new housings - but I'm not totally sure they'll fit and I obviously can't cut them up and then return them if they don't work. Just curious what folks have done recently, with emphasis on budget. Any input appreciated.

Well... as it happens... I did. The people at Bilstein in CA don't have the JDM part numbers anywhere in their catalogs, and the guy was super helpful/knowledgeable and spent close to a half-hour with me trying to find out the info I wanted. So, I came here, hoping someone might have actually had to replace their JDM Bilstein with USDM SpecB/B6 hardware and would have empirical knowledge of the situation. I have an email in directly to Bilstein in Germany in hopes they could tell me but I only speak English and I have no idea how quickly to expect a response. Really hoping someone here might have this knowledge. Any help much appreciated.

So, if anyone saw my other thread (here), I've been chasing a front end clunk. After replacing everything up there, and determining that everything is good and tight, I had a buddy over who's smarter than I am. He helped me check things over and he thinks it's the front left strut itself. I picked up a mechanic's stethoscope and I'm inclined to agree. I'm running the Bilstein JDM GT Rev.A, as verified by part numbers on the strut bodies. I got them used here on the board and I think they decided they were done soon after going on my car. Here's my question - has anyone ever replaced these struts with USDM Bilstein Spec B shocks? The Spec B units are readily available, whereas I'm not sure I can source the JDM shocks. I'd probably just replace the front two, the rears seem fine. I believe that the JDM upper spring perches and top mounts are the same as the Spec B so there should be no issue there. I'm wondering specifically about A) ride height change with the JDM springs - I don't know if the Spec B lower perch is located higher or lower than the JDM - and B) ride quality change. Anyway - any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I also had a hard time getting the Whiteline bushings installed in my FLCAs. I had to try four shops. The first three acted like they were afraid to hurt the arms themselves; the last one acted like the whole thing was no big deal. You may just have to keep calling around until you find a place that'll do it.

My car is at the shop. My mechanic is wondering about the rubber insulator at the BOTTOM of the springs in front. It's pretty dried out. Can anyone speak to this at all? I've worked on plenty of cars that don't have any rubber at all at the bottom of the spring (by design that is), and had no problem. Also - on a side note, how would I verify that I have the proper springs to go with my Bilstein struts? I bought them all (used) here on the board, as a complete setup, but I'm wondering if somehow the springs aren't the originals. They're black like OEM, and have one white paint splotch on the upper coil, and the lower coil has a pink spot and a blue spot.

Hey guys! That wasn't the problem. Brand-new upper spring perch installed, clunk is as bad or worse. I am well and truly stumped. Probably headed to a shop. If I ever solve this issue I'll report back.

Hey guys. I might have found the problem. Found this when I pulled apart the driver's side to install the new tophats I ordered. Pretty sure this hole should be circular... VERY much hoping that replacing the spring perch I just ordered will fix my issue. Luckily they're only $15 apiece. I ordered two so I can do the passenger side if it becomes necessary.

Yeah, early on. They're tight. I've changed most of the front end lol, the tophats are about all that's left. Thanks for the tip, I'm glad the job is the same.

I have ordered new Spec B tophats to replace the originals on my Rev A Bilsteins. I'm chasing a clunk (see here). I have a lot of suspension experience but I've never taken apart a setup with inverted struts, which I'm told these Bilsteins are. Is there any difference from the regular procedure? I.e. compress the spring, undo the top nut, pull everything apart? I don't want to damage the damper itself by doing something wrong. Searched, but did not find an answer. Thanks!

I ran across that as I started to research the part. I was wondering if it's really the same part, but it sure looks like it so I'm betting it'll work. Thanks for the suggestion! Any other thoughts welcome.

I have a hard time accepting that. It's so weird and disconcerting, it just doesn't seem that everything can be right and it still happen. Working on trying to figure out how to diagnose the strut assemblies without taking one (or both) apart...

Today I installed new front rotors, pads, clips, slider pins, and even new rubber pin boots. I had high hopes that it would solve the issue, especially when I found that the pads on the car came out of the clips really easily (the new stuff was much tighter during the installation); unfortunately the clunk came back within 100 miles on the highway during a short trip this afternoon. I'm now thinking top hats? It's about the only thing left I haven't replaced. I don't think it's the strut(s); I know they're used but there's no bounciness, they seem to work perfectly, and they're not leaking at all. Unfortunately these are the JDM Bilstein units and I hear that these tophats aren't common to USDM cars, so I'm not sure where to source them. I appreciate all the input so far. I'm grasping at straws at this point.

Just tried your trick with the door. I was not able to hear any unusual clunking. I am back to thinking that I need to isolate the brakes.

I got the whole JDM Bilstein setup complete (struts/springs already assembled). I don't think they're bad - both of them spun quite freely. How would I check them out? I'm honestly not sure. If they're bad, I'll have to find a source for new ones, apparently the JDM ones are different from USDM.

Definitely not the engine cradle/sub frame bolts. All are present and tight to the top. Also checked out steering rack, and reverified that suspension stuff is all tight this afternoon. Starting to think I need to do at least a front brake rotor and pad job to see if that takes care of it.