Drogos

have been driving around for a few days and I am still amazed what a great product this is. Customizations alone was a great surprise. Anyways, I do have little issues that I am trying to nail down. First of all when doing 1 & 2 gear pulls one after another it seems that it only registers one of them as a peak. The 1st one ...I think. Wondering if it has anything thing to do with filtering option in menu. 2nd more important: I am simultaneously running torque app. throug OBDII port and while sometimes boost values are dead even, other times there are huge discrepancies.....anywhere from 1psi to even 2.2psi I had today. I am pretty sure vbg1 is a heart breaker in all instances showing lower boost Anyone has issues like that? Don't even know where is the stock boost sensor.

ok, that did the trick:) let's add that to the instructions for 'quick' thinkers like me

wait...it comes with fuse in the holder. Am I suppose to add another one...the 7.5 that was originally in IG2 socket ?

Install through fender well is a cake, highly recommend. I have weird electrical problem though. I killed battery few days before installing vbg1 so I have to swith battery and see if that does it but as of right now I have p600 CEL. I used to get it when OBDII BT PLX was hooked up but it was very seldom event and it went away after cel clear no problem. Right now and I can't clear p600 neither through software cel clear nor through battery disconnect . Limp mode with light flashing (supprisingly boosting normally) speedo and tach are out of wack. Sometimes they work sometimes not, right now tach is working and speedo is dead. VBG1 itself fires up no problem but sometimes it goes into semi stand by mode where red diods are working (only on the vacuum side) but rest of the gauge is dead. I have to tap one of the touch buttons to wake it up. My mazda has similar bahaviour when battery doesn't have enough juice, even if it cranks no problem so hopefully it's just battery. Will report in the afternoon. There was a service bulletin about p600 code and one of the reason for it is listed as not enough juice in the battery on start up. I grounded the black vbg1 cable to the metal frame under the dash so I think that part is ok. Any thoughts anyone ?

no and no. yelllow but for lc1 not plx

From pictures of supplied cables on plx www it looks like you could mount plx sending unit close to vbg1 sending unit, connect them with mini jack and route 02 sensor cable all the way through firewall

not sure what you mean...plx plugs into VBG sending unit through mini jack cable right? First time installing any type of gauge .... I thought plx sender unit resides in engine bay, I guess I was wrong....

got mine yesterday. thanks. where are you guys attaching the sending unit?

finally ordered one. Should I feed aux input cable through the firewall while at it? How big of a PITA is it to add it down the road? Will most likely go with plx afr at some point

sorry I am not as fast as you are. Direzza star specs and are driven hard enough trust me. Let me rephrase my original statement. Zero would be inaccurate I agree. They do feel like that comparing to previous pads I had though. Minimal fade which is expected and predictable after 20 minutes of beating on it. Minimal enough that it inspires confidence in braking late. Negligible, I guess that was the word I meant to use.

Had HPS and wasn't very impressed. EBC Yellows is my go to summer pad. Dead silent on the street, nice initial bite, zero fade at the track. The only downside is your wheels will look like shit after week of driving but it has to give somewhere. Made in UK and even build quality is in different league than hawks

very possible. My now winter setup at 85k still has oem pads that come from factory....on its last legs though. Maybe they were replaced for exact oem pad but I doubt that. Mine was a highway crusiser also when I bought it and seeing how they hold up, might as well be original.

How did the belt look at 110K?

homelink has 2 sensors, front and rear. Light intensity is compared between the two so you were actually right. By blocking one of them you can control how mirror will react. If you block the rear facing sensor it will in theory put mirror in default/no tint mode

thread issue fixed with free rental set of chasing bits from o'reilyes. Pass side gaskets done but I have no clue how to attack dr. side. 1/8" clearance maximum. On top feed it's impossible to loosen injector pipe bolts without getting rid of inj. pipe shield and that bitch it's just a story of it's own. With all plumbing removed, I mean all minus AC it should be possible to remove all 3 bolts and after disconnecting fuel lines bla bla bla ....I just don't have time for this. Ice trials tomorrow morning, need to have car running. Hopefully pass side gaskets will help although I didn't have neither big problems with idle nor codes to start with so dr. side gaskets will have to wait until tgv deletes I guess

got the tap from O'reillys and bolts courtesy of P&L, for free to boot I think I will rent chasing set from them too since that seems to be more suitable for cleaning the thread. Want to try the least invasive way first. The driver side is frickin impossible to raise so Fuel line are off tomorrow (need to get another tool - 5/16 I believe), the injector pipe and the whole god damn thing should go no problem after that.

that's the plan, although won't have new bolt until Wednesday

stuck with 2 problems. First, one of the bolts in IM came out with metal between treads. Other bolts were looking like new when out, this one had some weird oxidation and took little extra effort to take it out. Not sure if new bolt will even screw in fine. Need to get some spares from stealership first before I try good bolts and mess them up. So, worst case scenario if I can't get that single bolt in or tight enough - what are my options? 2nd issue, fuel hard lines are pretty much sitting on top of the IM. There is maybe 1/8 space left if that. How much play is there in those lines and can I try to gently bent them upwards. That little bracket that screws to IM holds everything down but it can be bent out of the way easily so I am not worrying about that.

between garaged car, warm up procedure and very low temps that are few and far between the problem never really manifested itself in terms of codes. Once, after long highway drive in 10F I felt the car was idling rough. One way or another picking up o rings today will report back how it went.

any updates on when new batch will be available, can I have dibs please?

counterclockwise should get them higher

also...is that the best standard bulb for our low beams? http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html

are fogs the same in all 4th gen legacys ? 08+ looks little different but it might as well be different cover. trying to locate fog on ebay since mine is cracked but there is no specification for different years

should I expect any increase in noise with catted CNT DP on stock CBE?

it looks like it shows peak value after each pull ? does it show the peak value even if it's lower than previous or does it only show max. value?