mattg

Nice bike, holmes. Do you ever take it off any sweet jumps?

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/huge/IMG_4244.JPG

Thanks J!

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_3409.JPG

Yes, but they also sounds like they're nearly impossible to source. I guess Imay go the WL route. I didn't want to go poly because of the extra NVH but after reading these reviews I'm less worried.

I'm into mine $920 with powdercoat. ~ $1500 with new tires, lugs etc... How do you beat that for a forged 16.5# set of wheels? You don't...

http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_1211_1.JPG http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_1212_1.JPG

Oh man I'm really worried now. I was just thinking about the fact that my OEM wheels are coming up on 6 years old and 6 years being powdercoated. I guess I had better retire them soon (no pun).

That's pretty funny. But what would you expect to hear from a guy who sells wheels. Come to think of it, the wheels did seem pretty fragile even before I coated them. I had better ask Rao what he thinks.

Yes that was a cheap shot. If you read that thread you would see that there is a lot of debate over powdercoating wheels. This will be my 3rd set of powdercoated wheels but the first set of forged wheels I've had done. I'm pretty sure mine were done at 390* for a fairly short time. I'm going to find out from the coater what they have to say, but I'm not worried one bit. And I am certainly not the first person in this thread to have their BBS powdercoated.

So they're only 10 times stronger than a 5:AD wheel now. I'll be careful.

I removed the center caps, valve stems and wheel weights and dropped them off at the powdercoater. They media blast all the old paint off the wheels, spray on the powder then bake the wheels until the finish is ready. I paid $170 for coating this set.

Thanks. I just had these coated. I would call them more of a satin black. More durable and less prone to water spots and marking than flat black. http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_0520.JPG http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_0523.JPG

Your clubs, I will be joining them soon. http://photos.imageevent.com/mattg/legacygt/large/IMG_0532.JPG

Nice hipster/hybrid bike.

Doesn't concern me but props to you sir.

Ding

You want to see the tone ring?

Well this muthaf$%@ing problem is finally solved! The shop that had the SSM3 was able to isolate the problem to the RR tone ring, it had a ding in it. Finally got that hub swapped for a new OEM last night, problem solved. No more clicking either. I the clicking was actually coming from the ABS module under the hood because of the SS signal problem caused by the dented tone ring. It's funny too, there really is no gap for debris to get in there. Not sure how it happened. So 5 months and $500 later... Can't tell you how nice it is to not have the clicking, ABS light and to finally be able to use cruise again.

If it was a speed sensor issue the code for the RF would have gone away after I replaced the RF speed sensor. My next step is getting the car hooked up to a SSM3. I found an independent shop that has one. And I still have all the codes after unplugging the ABS module and disconnecting the battery overnight.

Disconnected the ABS control unit. We'll see what that does.

I changed the sensor and still have the issue. Nothing changed, same codes etc... I did call the Subie tech and he is a little stumped by my situation as well. He did say that disconnecting the battery may not clear the codes. That one of the several computers that control the system might be holding onto the codes. He said I could unhook the connector to the ABS control unit and that might clear the codes. He also suggested I take it to a dealer so they could diagnose it with the SSM3 which is the Subaru diagnostic computer/scanner. My mechanic suggested we slide the RF axle out of the hub assy and take a look there. No good news but that's where I'm at.

Hub was replaced yesterday and it looks like it didn't fix anything. Still have the ABS light and can still hear a slight low speed clicking coming from the RF. Mechanic checked it out again thoroughly, ran it on the rack and couldn't hear the noise. He did hear it after the hub was replaced and we drove the car. I haven't checked the codes yet to see if anything changed. Kind of frustrating paying $225 for a proactive wheel bearing replacement, my bearing was fine BTW. I would rather be putting this $$ into suspension mods. I think we're going to replace the RF sensor next.

RF hub ordered.

I was afraid of that. I still don't get how the RF & RR go bad at the same time the day after I got new tires. I think we'll do the RF first because that's where the clicking is coming from. Maybe the RR will clear itself after the front is fixed. IIRC the front is an easier fix than the rear, correct?