Holla

I agree with the others, plug the existing bulbs/sockets into the JDM lenses, don't do anything with the wiring.

The turn signals need to have the tabs filed off the socket for them to fit in the JDM lens and you won't have a running light in the rear anymore. Just tape up the running light socket.

what cover are you using, might i ask?

https://www.carid.com/2005-subaru-legacy-car-covers/coverking-silverguard-custom-car-cover-3374240.html?utm_source=email&utm_medium=order&utm_campaign=order_notification_mail

I purposely got one with good sun protection, I get a lot of sun in the backyard in the summer. Highly recommend this cover, it fits great.

Yep. That's one reason I left the area

Yeah, we moved here for my wife's career 5 years ago. From a social stand point it has been amazing, at least pre pandemic anyway. Definitely not looking to stay here forever but its also tough when my wife would take a major pay cut if we move. Thankfully, we have a standalone house here with a yard, otherwise I'd already be gone!

Well, they are plenty of nice roads in MD and VA to enjoy your car no?

In theory, yes. Its just difficult to get 'out there' from the district, especially depending on what time of day it is. The way DC is designed, i.e. designed before cars were invented, there is only a handful of ways to get in and out of the city.

The real issue here is I was spoiled living in rural northern WI. It was open season everyday from the minute you got in your car. The hardest part was getting the car up to temp and avoiding deer. This is where my best memories of this car are, especially in the winter with snow packed roads. You could drive as hard as you wanted to for as long as you wanted to, especially on the forest roads. Best commute ever with a LGT.

Sitting in traffic with speed cameras everywhere really takes the joy out of driving. This car is like a polar bear living in the DC zoo here.

I parked and covered my wagon back in early June, got back to DC a couple of weeks ago but just got around to uncovering the car yesterday, somehow its November already?

After almost 5 months of sitting here, I must say that this cover was a great investment. With the exception of some dust, the car looks great. I don't even see any water spots on in. Interior even still smells fresh from the detail I gave it before covering it.

My 7 year old Farm and Fleet battery had enough charge to turn on the accessories but I needed to put the trickle charge on overnight to crank it. Car fired right up, just some crud on the brakes which cleared up after driving it a bit. After driving my 88' Silverado and my wifes CRV all summer, this car feels like a rocket ship.

I'm not really sure what place this car has in my life anymore, it has sat here more than ever this year. I crossed 178K back in January and now to odometer reads 179,200. But I was really surprised just how nice this car is after not seeing it for 5 months now. It really has aged well. Its not worth that much anyway so I still don't see any point to getting rid of it yet. Having a manual transmission car that sits this low to the ground is not ideal for DC traffic. These cars need a lot of road to enjoy and its just not around here.

I did order some DBA rear rotors for the rear Brembo's to get the parking brake working again. Unfortunately, they are on back order until December. Other than that I'm trying to save as much cash as possible to get a garage up at the DC house in the spring.

I agree, someone will want it.

If you have tan interior, this is the #1 thing you need to swap over to make it livable.

Anyways I started getting a P0457 EVAP code.. what's my order of parts replacement gonna be?

 

- checking middle fuel line under the engine cover (no cracks, all hose rings are intact, nothing loose)

- gas cap (generic one from rock auto ok?)

- check valve on charcoal box under rear left rear well?

- smoke test?

Get a smoke test. I chased this awhile, ended up needing a new gas tank. Gas tanks leaking at the seam are a common issue with the 4th gens in northern climates. I had a tiny little hole in mine but it was enough to throw the code, never smelled or saw gas.

That's awesome!

For awhile I had both my 01' GSR and LGT. I miss that car but I also don't know what I'd do with it right now. I owned more eg's and dc's than I can remember right now. It's funny though because I so rarely see them for sale now, someone has been sitting on these cars, they used to be everywhere.

Yes, I have this.

I PM'd you.

Found some original Spec.B rims in great condition, wrapped them in Indy 500. Previous owner probably got run into and insuranced scrapped them. Got the Fast Attack wheels off that they put Champiro gt, what a difference!! But in one or two months the hakka 9’s are going on for the winter.

Side note: anybody here have a 20mm whiteline rsb on lgt or spec b? It seems to rub or slightly tap bottom of upper trailing arm on pass side. I put Moog endlinks to beef it up but I think they are too long. Anybody have this issue? I heard putting STI endlinks resolves length issue since they are shorter. Any input? Thanks

I have the 20mm Whiteline RSB and Moog end links on my wagon, no issues here. Are you sure it’s tapping the control arm? If the end links are even a little bit loose they will make a knocking noise. Try tightening the end links up again first. If they were hitting the control arm, I’d think you’d have bigger issues.

Location: Milwaukee, WI

Price:$100

Hidden Hitch for 4th gen Legacy. I bought this used a long time ago, never installed it. This is the larger 4,000lbs hitch. There is some scrapes on the bottom from being on a LGT wagon but otherwise is good shape. I don't have the bolts to install it, what is pictured here is what I have.

I know what my 4,000lbs+ MasterCraft feels behind my truck, no way would I put that kind of weight behind my LGT. You'd be better off renting a box truck and towing the car.

If you do use your LGT, make sure you have some trailer brakes.

In general, I think it’s a hack job and I wouldn’t have put them on my car.

The procedure calls for bleeding both sides of the caliper. Inside, than outside. I’m not sure how you would get the air out of which ever side is blocked off. There’s a high probability they’re not bled correctly.

What is the status of your shocks? New shocks can give you some ride height back.

I run Epic springs in the front of my wagon and the OEM springs in the rear. I’d rather use the OEM springs rather than use spacers. It also makes for a more plush ride with the OEM equipment in the rear while giving my car the slight rake I’m looking for.

Other garbage:

 

1996 Seadoo HX that is apropriately named “start, Start, START” won’t start. I need to pull the carbs and clean them. The damn thing hasn’t given me any issues at all over the past month and a half, but here we go again. My wrench:ride ratio f’in sucks. I would sink the damn thing but it’s just so damn good when it works the way it’s supposed to.

This sounds like every jet ski I've ever been affiliated with.

I chased a starting issue with my 86' Ski Centurion this year but considering the newest thing I own is a 15 year old LGT wagon, everything has been running pretty well.

DoctorDaveLGT, what was your complain about moving the SpecB across state lines? My middle one is looking for a NA Miata and of course RI being the smallest state all cars he finds are out of state. Back in the day the cars I bought from private party were either local or in CT so I would just slap one of my existing plates on them and rive them home (adding them on my insurance before the trip). But somehow I do not feel too great doing that and driving through 3-4 states. Renting UHaul with dolly is an option too but I am interested what made you upset about SpecB delivery. If you don't mind of course.

 

 

While I am on it, anyone selling an NA Miata with 5 speed and black interior, within 600-700 miles from 02892? Won't hussle over the price and willing to travel for a good car.

It's very dependent what state you live in and what state you're buying the car from.

The last truck I bought was in GA and there was no way to get a transport tag in GA. WI wouldn't give me a transport tag either without a title. The guy I bought the truck from put one of those paper dealer plates on it, I drove it for a good 1,500 miles like that, not recommend though. I had the title, bill of sale and proof of insurance but I never got pulled over.

Putting a plate that's not registered to the correct car could potentially be even worse though, not sure I'd go that route.

My other truck I bought in Idaho and thankfully he left the plate on it.

My LGT was purchased in MA but between the time I purchased it and the time they rebuilt the motor I was able to get it registered. I don't recall what happened in the 50 miles it drove under its own power from the dealer the first time though.

Been quiet on the car front. But on Friday my harmonic balancer gave up and died. Separated at the rubber ring area. 165,000 was too much. Ordered a Grimmspeed lightweight one and threw it on. I assumed the project would be difficult but took less than 30 minutes to remove and install. Threw on a couple new belts as well.

 

 

 

Might be placebo, but I swear it's easier to rev match now when downshifting.

I really need to do this before I end up in the same situation.

Not today but over the weekend assembled the rear hatch on my wagon. I had applied sound proofing to it before and fixed sticking opening handle, so it was time to put it all together. Had the striker got loose (weird, never seen that), and I had new part on hands. Replaced the striker plate and also applied sound proofing to spare wheel well and other surfaces there.

 

Took the car for a test drive and whoa. No more rattling from the rear hatch door and road noise from rear wheels.

 

I don't remember it being that quiet even when it was new. Happy with the results.

I need to do this same thing. My handle is sticky and unlocking is getting less and less reliable. Also, it seems the reception on the FM is getting weak.