Holla
-
Posts
621 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Holla
-
-
I'm looking for the drivers door handle shipped to 20018.
-
Not much change for my wagon in the past year, it just sits a lot. Last fall the OEM radiator finally gave up and I replaced it with a Koyo. Last week, I finally got the snow tires on for the season and drove 800 miles round trip through MD, WV, PA to OH. It was a great drive, the car didn’t skip a beat. My electric cut out and 30 degree temps made for an entertaining drive.
-
4
-
-
On 1/8/2024 at 4:54 PM, Code said:
Are you still using the stock MC or upgraded sti unit? I don’t plan on changing mine. Just doing caliper/rotors/pads.
I would recommend upgrading the MC/booster to the STi unit. This alone is one of the best mods you can do on a LGT, even with the stock brakes, and it's so cheap to do. The MC/Booster makes a bigger difference than the Brembo's IMO. It really tightens up the brake pedal feel. You barely get into the brakes and they're right there in the pedal.
The rear Brembo's were the 'last' mod I did on my LGT too. It's a frustrating mod. It's a lot of cost for what I consider a cosmetic mod. I went a couple of years with just the front Brembo's and STI MC/Booster and noticed no difference when I finally swapped to rear Brembo's. Looking back, I was just fine with front's only. It was another $1000+ and I wasn't wild about modifying my trailing arms.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:
I’m pretty damn certain that’s a yes. My rear lines are stock to the caliper, but my front lines are aftermarket. Still though I think it’s all OE fit with Brembo calipers
They fit but the OEM rear lines are too long. I needed to zip tie them to the trailing arms to keep the slack from rubbing against the axles.
-
2
-
-
43 minutes ago, alex0856 said:
Having owned and driven cars from both ends of the spectrum throughout my wagon ownership I have found that there's not much out there that interests me. If it was totaled tomorrow I'd probably just search for another one. I am fortunate enough to be 30 years old with no kids, mortgage or debt and enough play money to do what I want with the car. I just added a backup camera, a car tablet, and am wiring for a new sound system. The carpet has been ripped out so I can put in sound deadening to quiet it down. I've got all the creature comforts I care for and none that I have no interest in. I like to drive my car, I don't want it to drive for me.
Next I'd like to get the front seats reupholstered so I can go on trips without my ass being on fire.
I also daily drive a Nissan NV1500 that is fully paid for by my company so I don't have to live with my personal cars daily. It goes to the grocery store and on weekend trips. Maybe that is part of why I have this perspective. I do 95% of my own repairs so if it's down for the count I don't have to worry about getting to work.
I agree. Not ever needing to commute or daily my LGT has increased its life span with me. If I needed to drive this car every day, it may have been replaced a long time ago.
-
I'm in the same boat with my wagon and after 13 years of ownership, it's just not worth selling to me. As long as I have some place to keep it and continue to pay the $650 a year for insurance, I plan on keeping it. I have no plans on any rebuilds though. If the motor goes or the car has body damage, I'll probably let it go.
-
Awesome progress, the car has changed a lot!
What is the heater for?
-
1
-
-
On 4/23/2023 at 7:51 PM, Gex said:
Put the wagon in its new spot. Fits like a glove. Need to get it prepped for May 5th track day.
Random question, how tall is the ceiling in your garage?
Beautiful collection as always!
-
1
-
-
Looking good man! I'm really digging the setup you have going on.
Don't feel too bad about the permits. I finally got mine approved this week, they were submitted in January. And that was with a licensed architect, structural engineer and professional permit expediter on the job.
-
1
-
-
Nice thread.
We're also in the process of building a garage. We'll hopefully have the permits by the end of the year and start building in spring. Being in the city, we have the same sq/ft issue. We can only have a 450sq/ft footprint so we'll be 22x20 but it will be a full two story building.
Is there a reason you don't go with single 16' or 18' door instead of two 8' garage doors?
-
The same thing happened to me before. The stock USDM head lights eat bulbs. I went though bulbs every 6 months, the first cold night one year I had both bulbs go out within a coupe of hours of each other. I swapped to the JDM HID headlights and haven't replaced a bulb in over 5 years, they have paid for themselves. I have the DRL disconnected but I normally drive with the headlights on anyway.
-
1
-
-
When I went from the OEM shocks to the Excel's on stock spring in my wagon, it raised the rear up about 1" unloaded.
The Excel's are a direct OEM replacement but they are a better shock than OEM.
-
Did you ever figure it out? I had a 2000 Accord with the 1457 yesterday and it made me think about your car lol
Over the weekend, I replaced the two-way valve and solenoid that you recommended. So far so good but it will take some miles to confirm it actually fixed the CEL. Thank you for your guidance!
Edit: We drove to NYC and back last weekend, no CEL. That's the longest it has stayed off in years so that's promising. Again, thank you!
-
Enhanced Street Performance, Inc.
12 Beverly Drive
Sterling, Massachusetts 01564
(978) 422-7273
http://enhancedstreetperformance.com/
They installed my VF-52, DP and TMIC along, long time ago. Tuning Alliance does tunes on their dyno. 10+years, 80k later my car runs fantastic!
-
Mach V Motorsports
45690 Elmwood Court, Suite 170
Sterling, Virginia, 20166
(571) 434-8333
I've only personally used their alignment services but they will align your car to your specs and they welcome modifications. They have a parts warehouse on site, they have to be one of the most equipped Subaru shops around. They recommend tie rod replacement during the alignment and they had no issue modifying the tie rod ends for my STi steering rack and they had everything on hand already.
-
Take a look at the link that Infosecdad posted.
The OEM STI gauges use a pigtail adapter to power the gauges. I would use this same setup but you'll need to tap into the wiring harness instead of it being plug and play.
-
I got mine from Fenix near Winchendon, MA. It's been awhile since I got mine, they've changed names a few times now but they had a lot of Subaru parts. Give them a call.
-
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10207124&cc=1355633&pt=16992&jsn=10384&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5U70IOqpyPMG1tzuU1XPpL4y58WPnTODysdl3oNg1HzFrtIJYiPXozrQC%2F%2BmwRXMXgqTvHOtG73sptmH7%2FcJ6xbeyH061kDsjy2DhOH56clsfRDRK7zW3bp%2Frou0I8flayJERyxYHqJTcx4bS7ibjlHvVZSZnE9ywDL%2B4ghSF%2FHr4r%2BiOkqdCaVxRHqFeCRmpkGJ7N6WxbdPg4IJYF0An5GQ9BP9HwpB0qAcLPP5m7z31ERacShR0pIA8dBUXvnn1h66I7Ngl8VkViYanrpFGh6pZ2fvwct2RVeZ2vDYOqCQXEEtW5XhCqisYvSTjTpo9cZuSIe6fyMNJGfhZUYTluT1jb0rG7inuLz1HeprKA9EZuJu2kZRN6v8Yr536YA51OnX7m0kuYH%2BJ5WpCsfWaIbPDE4NatVGYJOtH8UJNo1IJjgzwt1rWlJgGd31N2%2FUoVgsRKvrBRQ8MBF9tGgNx0tnR%2BLDGyudsu
The part in the first link is not actually a solenoid but it's always listed as one. It's a two way valve that is attached to the actual solenoid in the second link. You can test my theory by removing the two way valve to check for fuel contamination. If fuel drips out, she's bad and so is the solenoid. There's a strong possibility the little phillips head screws will be rusted so have a good pair of tiny pliers handy.
Thank you! I know I've had these off before, I'll take a look at them again now that I know how to tell if they're bad or not.
-
P0457 or P1457? What year? There are a couple components that can pass a smoke test but will still cause the code the set. Honda has one of the more basic evap systems when it comes to diagnostics.
It's P1457. It's a 1999 CRV. Last time I had it smoked tested, it passed. I can get the light to stay off long enough for the emissions test after a reset but it will come back on after 100 miles. Any suggestions?
-
Are these cars get older, these EVAP CEL's are really a pain. Replacing the gas tank on my LGT has kept the light off for the past couple of years, but I'm just waiting for it to come back.
My wife's Honda CRV has the same struggles. Same P0457 CEL has been on for years now. No one can find the leak.
-
Yup gotta say guys, there are so many 1050 Injector Dynamic (Cobb) units running just fine on the Suby platform, I’m gonna wager the majority of folks issues are either operator error on install or other ancillary parts not allowing then injectors to do their job as intended
You're probably right about that. The ID1000's were the best option when I was considering injectors. Clearly, I'm a bit behind.
-
So I guess just turning the power down a bit would solve my issues then. Kind of a bummer, but such is life. More power comes with its own consequences.
I managed 280 WHP on a VF46 on the same dyno in the same weather so I'm bummed I couldn't get more out of this turbo with the stock fueling. So it goes. 295 WHP is honestly a lot for a 4-cylinder that was probably engineered before most people had a home computer.
It's been my observation that aftermarket injectors are not as reliable as OEM. I've seen countless posts about mysterious issues that have been linked back to aftermarket injectors. I'll gladly trade a few HP for OEM reliability.
-
I followed Max's build. I've been on stock injectors and stock fuel pump with a vf-52 for over a decade now with a Tuning Alliance tune. My peak power is less than yours but it's been dead reliable. In the last 80k I've only changed the plugs and oil.
-
How long do you notice that it takes to get the oil up to boost-safe temps in the summer vs winter? Always been curious.
I’d guess about 5 mins in the summer and 10 mins in the winter. Obviously, it depends on what the temperature is outside. I try and keep my engine under 3k RPM’s until the oil reaches 80c, which is its normally operating temp. The water temp comes up a lot quicker than the oil temp. It’s rare that I see oil temps over 100c but it has happened on very hot days in traffic.
If the oem gauges use a sandwhich adapter that's probably what I'll use. Would this work for the oil pressure and oil temp sensors?Yes, the OEM sandwich adapter has two ports for the oil temp and oil pressure. It’s all kind of built as one unit though.
If you want something that’s a little better to alert you, you might want to a gauge from Speedhut. They offer gauges that are programmable with a bright red LED that comes on the face of the gauge when it goes below your set point. I run their Oil Pressure gauge in my track car and the warning light really gets your attention when it lights up.This makes sense. I know the pressure can fluctuate quite a bit though. I’ve seen my car go to low pressure on the highway before, which seems to be normal so I wonder what you would set the alarm to.
TN: 2006 LGT Full Part Out
in Member Classifieds :: Full Vehicle Part-Outs
Posted
Outside