eckseleven

My tuner recommends changing plugs yearly.

probably depends on the weather...

Haha well said. The LGT is a fun daily and great in the snow but it's got nothing on the Vette once the fat rear tires find some grip.

Out of curiosity, how come the NY plates are different? Typically I see the Yellow/Dark Blue NY plates here in MA.

Ha I'm not sure... every time the Legacy was up for registration, I just kept checking the box for keeping existing plates. The yellow ones are current but a new design is coming this year I think. No one has liked the yellow ones.

Some booty action

I know you said you don't want to spend the coin on the Primitive plate, but you get what you pay for.

 

Another thing to consider depending on your weather - my car went through TWO OEM plates that protect the turbo within 40k miles. They take some abuse from moisture and salt from the winter and both times they had rusted apart. The plastic tray was also falling apart. Rather than buy yet another metal plate and new plastic tray, I chose to get the Primitive skid plate which replaces both. I'll never have an issue again and level of protection is far better than any OEM-like solution. It's really worth it in my opinion to protect those expensive bits we have on the GT.

Also just fyi to you all, ck or just change out your pcv valve and tee fitting hose... the little ball inside mine was frozen and tee fitting split!

 

Happen to have the part number for the tee handy? I've had the valve for years. Attempted to install once and it looked like I would rip the tee getting the valve out. Put it back together and haven't revisited it.

How did you send your wideband signal to your AP?

 

I mention that above. You either wire the signal to the rear O2 or TGV input. Either way, the tune will have to be updated to interpret the signal and address any check engine lights.

Yeah it will fit the OEM bung.

Have you checked out what crutchfield has? I upgraded the head unit in my Vette and got everything through them. There was a module that plugs in to the head unit that preserved steering wheel controls, door chime, etc.

I'll have to get some logs next time. I'm aware of that fuel stumble problem but didn't think that could be it since this came out of nowhere. I had done dozens of full pulls during the etuning process a couple months ago with no issue. Only thing different now is the temp has dropped 40-50 degrees.

Do you know the color of the wires from the rear o2 harness to splice into ?

 

 

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You would be using the two bottom wires in the OEM rear 02 connector. I don't recall the colors, but if you pull back the wire loom a bit you will see them. I think they are blue and orange judging by what I wrote in the original thread.

Hadn't done some good cold weather pulls while watching my boost in a while so tried yesterday. It was around 20F. Highest I saw was 19.5 and it is tuned for 18. So not too bad considering the temps and the Nameless DP.

 

 

 

The concerning thing however is my car seems to have a bit of a stumble above 4k RPM and WOT. At first I thought my tires were trying to spin (roads did have some slick spots) and traction control was cutting power. I disabled it though, and still got the same behavior. Naturally I suspect a coil pack but there was no CEL. Shouldn't I see a CEL if it was a misfire? Car runs perfect otherwise.

Does this mean that if I would like to add a WB, but not the gauge pod, that I could wire in the WB in place of the rear O2 sensor and then my tuner would be able to use the data? (With my AP v3)

 

Good question. The particular AEM wideband I used requires the gauge be used as well. It is involved in powering the sensor as well as converting the sensor signal to various logging outputs. So if you use the same one as I did, the gauge will be needed. However, now that my car is tuned, I could certainly unplug the gauge and tuck the wires away in case they are needed again. So that is an option for you if you simply need it for the initial tuning process. This whole setup is strictly for confirming the fueling is accurate during tuning, it serves no other purpose to the car afterwards.

 

AEM might make one without the display but I'm not sure.

Video:

 

The following is a guide for wiring up a wideband (referred to as 'WB' from now on) 02 sensor. It includes wiring up the signal wires so the WB output can be read by the ECU. This is optional, but handy if you want the data to be available alongside your AP datalogs.

 

Parts I used (not including gauge pod):

AEM 30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge

4-way Male Connector Plug Pigtail O2 Oxygen Sensor

Wire wrap

Add-A-Circuit

Electrical tape

Spade terminal connectors (if you need to extend any wires)

 

Tools:

Wire stripper/crimper

Wrench for sensor (can't remember size)

 

1. Install sensor. Location depends on where/what bung you'll be using. I have the Nameless DP with just two bungs. The rear OEM sensor is used just to verify the Cat is functioning and since my OEM sensor was actually failing, I chose to install the WB there. I just had to work with my tuner to make the necessary changes in the tune.

 

2. Wire up signal wires. Again, not necessary if you don't need to capture the data. Also, if you aren't deleting the rear 02, you'll have to take a different approach (you can splice in to the rear 02 harness or use the TGV input).

 

Connect the signal wires from the WB harness to the 02 connector. You'll be using the WHITE and BROWN wires from the WB harness. I chose to extend them a bit which is why you see red and black wires in the pictures. The pictures show where they need to be in the connector.

 

3. Route the two wiring harnesses through the firewall. I used the grommet behind the intercooler on the driver's side. I don't have a good picture but you can't miss it. I poked a hole in it and used a little grease to help get the wires through. This was honestly the hardest part of the whole process.

 

4. Connect power. The WB requires switched 12V power to function. I used the add-a-circuit and put it in the fusebox in the driver's side footwell area. You use the red and black wires, red going to the add-a-circuit and black being grounded someplace. No picture at the time. I can get one if it helps any.

 

5. Now simply plug everything in. The two sets of wire you ran through the firewall go to the back of the gauge. The WB sensor goes to the wiring harness (there is a connector on each end already) and the signal wires connect to the OEM harness using the connector you wired up. Use the wire wrap to tidy up the looks of things under the hood and add a little protection in the process. Zip tie excess wire out of the way.

 

6. Now turn the key to the "run" position and you should see the gauge turn on. It will say "HEAT" and a progress bar will move as the sensor warms up. If you get this far, go ahead and start the car.

 

7. Mount the gauge however you'd like.

 

8. Work with your tuner to get the signal from the WB to be displayed by the AP v3 (v2 will not show it).

 

Happy monitoring/logging!

 

Many thanks to cww516! Couldn't have done this without your help!

 

My original cry for help thread

Bumping this old thread to the top!

 

For the past couple years I've been running a tune I was never completely happy with...it got the job done for the most part but that car was pretty weak off boost and despite my desire to have peak boost around 18.5, the tuner wasn't able to get it down there.

 

I heard my original tuner was doing e-tunes on the side (I used to go to his dyno equipped shop until he closed and moved) so I decided to give that a shot. His old tunes on my car had amazing off-boost response that I really grew to miss. I had to get a wideband installed before he'd touch it (which I think says a lot about his commitment to a quality tune, others don't bother) and the end result is great. I was concerned he wouldn't be able to keep the boost down due to the known issues with this DP but so far so good.

 

Peak boost is set to 18 and with temps in the low 60s I stay right around there +/- .5 psi. I'm not sure what kind of magic he did but I'm pleased. Looking at the log, it's even using less WGDC than before. Now, I'm not saying my overboost is completely cured, but I do feel somewhat better. I'll keep an eye on things as it gets colder and update if anything noteworthy comes up.

Heh someone else with sticking brakes. I noticed a pretty bad vibration this morning on the highway. Came out of nowhere. I stopped and looked around, only thing that stood out is my right rear smelled like the pads were cooking. I'm no stranger to dragging brakes, but I've never had a vibration from it. I made an appointment to get it checked out.

 

I wish I had the time (and more space than my single car, Vette occupied garage offers) to do the work myself. I'd like to paint mine like those above. Looks really nice.

Started another round of stage 2 etuning today. Feeling good so far.

^MrStacey has those and he has pics of them installed here somewhere.

 

I was thinking of getting those but they covered more of the fuel gauge than I liked.

 

My thoughts as well. I like the idea of those but I'm concerned about how much the fuel gauge is covered (don't care about the MPG one). For that reason, a couple weeks ago I got a CravenSpeed Belmont and planned on putting it on the steering column.

You're gonna have to take the airbag, then wheel off to get to the cover behind it

 

Wow that sounds horrible. Maybe I'll use some double sided tape

Finished up wideband wiring yesterday. I'm not seeing the "custom sensor rear O2 input" (or whatever Cobb calls it) in my AP though so I'm guessing something isn't set up right in my map yet. Email out to tuner to get it sorted out. Three DTCs as well for cat efficiency and rear O2 heat/signal. But aside from those hopefully minor things, I'm good to go. Wideband seems to be functioning although I haven't floored it yet.

 

Anyone know how to take off the plastic cover on the steering column? I'm hoping to mount a gauge pod there.

I barely messed with AVCS tuning over the years, partly because valve timing seemed too mysterious and partly because I was satisfied with how my car was running... Ironically what finally got me to study up on valve timing was buying a 2002 Corvette (Z06, whee!) which does not have variable valve timing. But that makes it even more important to pick the right camshaft, so I have been reading everything I can find, and I started experimenting with my Subaru.

 

Heh funny to hear about someone else getting a Vette and that actually being factor behind modifying/tuning the Subaru more. I picked up a '10 GS a couple months ago and have since spent more time tinkering with the LGT in that time that I have in the past 2 years. I'm just hoping to make the transition between cars a bit easier.

 

Sorry for the off topic, carry on!

Not today but yesterday and the day before I got my new v3 AP set up and installed my wideband sensor in rear O2 position of nameless dp. Install of sensor was much easier than expected. A little PB blaster and removal of some lower covers allowed me to remove the old sensor with dp on car. What a relief.

 

Next up is wiring the sensor.

 

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^ BTW, the video doesn't come close to picking up all the sound. You can hear the turbo spool at the slightest throttle input. I really did enjoy it but it was time for a change.

What type of intake noises do the silicon hoses add? How was the install on the intake?

 

I've been thinking about how I'd like some more engine music lately. Are you thinking at all about parting with the intake?

 

You basically get more air induction noise with the hoses. They are easy to install. I haven't gone WOT yet since I'm on a temp tune but I would expect some more noticeable BPV noise as well. Nothing like how loud the Cobb intake was, however.

 

Installation of the Cobb intake was a bit tricky and I had to modify the box to fit. You would need a tune for it also. I would like to find a good home for it and a fellow 5th gen owner would be ideal!

 

Here was the thread where I participated in more discussion about it. There is a link to youtube with I video I made.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2010-cold-air-intake-208012.html