Brady

dammit! too late. shitty day for me anyway.

Don't know where it is ... but I'll tentatively say I'm game

Minnesota - 12/14/05, about 5:30 pm heading north on 494 near Co. Rd 9. ABP LGT wagon, Debadged, Tint. I gave a short 1st gear pull to get attention since you never looked over.

Yes, Please add in links in your posts, or throw together a little blurb in a post, and I'll add the info to the main post. Any help is much appreciated.

Ok, after having this moved to "Turbo Powertrains" I was a little dicouraged and ignored this for a while. But I remembered some topics that I knew were in need of adding and still feel this can and will be a good reference for the n00b "What should I get?" threads.

Furthermore, it's just silly! To assume I'm some moron working a peon job is a greater leap in logic than to assume that studies conducted near the arctic circle regarding traffic safety are applicable at any given latitude!

My argument stands. You said that running DRLs will lower your risk of an ACCIDENT by 40%. This isn't true. It will lower your risk of particular TYPES of accidents by a percentage, of which the number is debatable. The majority of studies are also cited in Scandinavia. These countries are at a latitude where glare from ambient light during daytime is a greater concern. The same study conducted near the Tropic of Cancer might yield a different outcome than the study conducted near the Arctic Circle. I'm not saying that Daytime Running Lamps serve no purpose, just that people who throw out ridiculous statistics do so to strengthen a rather flimsy argument. And Mr. Accident Investigator, since you're a professional in the field, could you please show us the statistics that cite the varying percentages of accidents? I'd like to see what percentage of accidents are: Single vehicle, Multiple vehicle - rear end, Multiple vehicle - T-bone, Multiple Vehicle - Frontal collision. Just for comparison sake.

Really? 40%??? I'd say you were at least 39% less likely had you been paying attention to what was going on before the accident. That's to say that 40% of accidents are caused by people not seeing each other. Add to that the high number of rear end collisions (by far the most common) and this statistic is as asinine as the the person who made it up on the internet.

A little confused ... Why Turbo powertrains? Shifters, Audio, Interior, Exterior, Suspension (in progress), Brakes (in progress), Wheels? One small section really exclusive to the Turbo.

I'll get back to updating tomorrow or Friday. I WANT to do more suspension, I want to learn more about suspension, but let's be honest - Suspensions are more of a mystery than power. It's never been as popular to change suspension bits. That's changing a bit with cars coming standard with more power. Also, on the LGT, it's much easier to upgrade power. You have to have ZERO knowledge to get a bunch of power with a tune (AP, ECUTek, whatever) and you don't have to know a whole lot unless you're looking to make mad power. But suspension work, it's hard to know where to start since no one ever says "Dude, I totally increased my skidpad by .15 G's, My slalom speed is up 1.8 mph, and last weekend ... you won't believe me ... I corner balanced the car to perfect distribution." Well, unless it's Keefe. Furthermore, this is america where people only care about how fast they can go in a straight line. Suspension is a total afterthought. But I'm learning slowly, and then I'll be able to add more to the section.

Lol ... not bored, just something I've been meaning to do for a while. And after doing this whole thing, I found a few thousand dollars worth of mods I want to do to my car! Curses!

I thought that a number of new members, and even several established members, could use a nicely consolidated thread to help with finding all the "first mods" typically associated with the Legacy GT. There are so many threads that pop up asking these questions, so I'll try to hit on the most common subjects and most popular mods. Because several of these topics can be QUITE extensive, I'll frequently give a brief description of what can be done and link to another thread which contains good information or possibly even further links within. I know there are areas I'll miss, and some areas I don't know too much about ... so please do help out with this, and I'll try to add stuff to this original post to try to keep it as well organized as possible. ********************* Note: I'm not trying to hit every mod or adjustment, just the most common ones to give people an idea where to begin when they first ask themselves "What to do?" ******************** Without further ado: Power: There are a few routes to go if you're looking to bump the power in your LGT. The most popular seems to be the AccessPORT from Cobb Tuning, but other options are available from ECUTek and possibly other suppliers. These extract power from the car by simply reprogramming the ECU to optimize fuel, air, boost, timing and other factors. Plenty of information can be found in this thread from the Turbo Powertrains forum: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8084 Numerous Up Pipe, Down Pipe, and Exhaust systems exist also, which, in conjunction with the aforementioned ECU programs, can add to greater increases. Most of this is covered in the link above also. Pricing for AccssPORT is about $650 Pricing for ECUTek - ??? Pricing for UP/DP/Exhaust - How fast do you want to spend? Shifters: (Primarily Manual Transmission) Lots of short throw shifters exist for the Legacy. The most popular models for this are the OEM STI Short Throw shifter, Kartboy, and Cobb Tuning's double adjustable shifter. Pricing tends to range from about $100 - 250. New shifter bushings will help with shifter feel also and are a good thing to add with your short shifter. Kartboy and Cobb are common suppliers for these parts. Pricing is usually around $30-60 Shift knobs are also popular additions to the car, but are far too numerous to try to list. I suggest reading through the Interior/Audio forum to see examples of various knobs. MOMO and Prodrive both make shift knobs designed to work with the OEM shifter boot on manual transmission models. There are also some knobs available for the automatic transmission out there if you're looking for some extra style. Pricing is usually around $60-90, but I've personally seen some knobs as high as $150. Audio: My oh my ... where to begin with Audio?! I'm going to start off by pointing you to this thread here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12608 This thread highlights a few of the major FAQs associated with the sound system in our cars and should cover how to get better sound from the car. Something that has disappeared from the Audio FAQ is direct connecting an auxillary input. I'm guessing this is because a couple new options have recently emerged, but neither is really fully developed, so to speak (as of 9/18 when I write this). But currently, there appears to be two solutions to adding an Auxillary input. The first option is here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504 , the second option found here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18870 . Both solutions require removing and disassembling of the radio to use this option. Interior: Aluminum Pedals dress up the interior a bit. There is the STI pedal set issued in the Legacy Accessories catalog which has STI Pink rubber nubs. Some members have also used the WRX Aluminum Pedal set and some have found a matching Dead Pedal with black rubber nubs. WRX Pedal set goes for around $50, the matching Dead Pedal goes for $40-50, and you can purchase a complete set at Mastro for about $100 - http://mastrowrx.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=293 Gauges are also too numerous to try to touch on here, but just type in "gauges" in a search in the Interior/Audio forum and you'll find TONS of info on gauges. Disable Seatbelt Warning Chime - 1) Sit in Driver Seat - Probably best to close the door in case it's needed. 2) Put the key in the ignition, but do not turn it 3) Grab your seatbelt and get it ready to clip it in 4) Now turn the ignition to "On" (don't start it!) 5) Within 30 seconds of turning the ignition to "On", completely buckle and unbuckle the seat belt 20 times. When done with this step, immediately turn the car off. 6) Turn the car back on, and it should be set. To turn the Warning Chime back on, repeat steps 1-6. Exterior: Lots of different things to do to the exterior of the car. In no particular order. Grille/Grill - There are two options to purchase, the JDM grill and the RBS JDM replica grill. They are both body colored around the surround of the grill, with a black mesh behind them. The JDM grill has the emblem in the center, the RBS requires you to supply your own emblem if you so desire. You can purchase both at http://www.pltek.net Pricing ranges from about $280 - 400. Front Lip - There is an STi front lip spoiler (and various replicas out there) which hangs just below the bottom of the front bumper. I've only seen them in black. Pricing ranges from about $300 - 600 on these depending on if you get the OEM part or a Replica. This is the most common part for the front lip, though there seem to be a few others floating about. Great thread on the OEM Legacy STi Lip: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3971 Headlights - Two popular mods on the headlights are one in the same, but the second just adds a few steps. Clearing the headlights involves removing the Orange Reflector from the signals, and Blacking Out the headlights does the same but also involves painting the housing in the lights black. There are two walk through threads for these mods. If you want to black them out, first follow the directions for clearing the headlights, then follow the directions for blacking them out. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3737 (Clearing) & http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17817 (Black Out) Price - ummm ... Cheap - Free (Free to clear, cost of minimal supplies to black out - maybe 6 bucks tops) Headlights/HID conversion: There are two methods to be considered on this subject. The first method is to buy a kit (typically in the $300 range) which will replace the bulbs in the stock light housing using the stock halogen projector lens to disperse light (more on this to come). Look around the exterior section for more posts on where to find them. This thread covers the kits pretty well: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2821 The second method, and the supposed "better" solution (read, more difficult, but better quality) is to retro-fit an actual D2S (Real HID) lens and bulb with original donor OEM parts to make a true HID conversion. VXCL did a nice write-up here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14544 Disabling Daytime Running Lamps - Just follow this link. Piece of cake. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2117 Debadging - Or removing the badges from the rear of the car. Pretty well explained in this thread here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1175 Note: The rear "Stars" emblem has pins that sit in holes in the trunk, so almost no one has actually removed this badge since it leaves holes behind in the trunk. Suspension: Please help me out ... I'm not too knowledgable in this area, and would prefer someone's aid in adding to this. Brakes: Ditto above Wheels: These two threads should be a good place to start: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11208 & http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4426 Tires: I'm not going to spit fire on the RE92's, but there are other options out there. All Season: The two most popular options on this site seem to be the Pirelli PZero Neros and the Toyo Proxes 4s. Certainly there are others, but these seem to be popular for their particular wide range of duty and performance. Winter: This thread is too good for me to say anything else http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3043 Summer: Coming

wouldn't it be cheaper and easier for all parties involved if you just offered a trade with another member who was moderately local and wanted cleared lenses?

^^^ Depends on how much cutting you want to do Unfortunately, that is not such a simple question as other important factors are amount of cone travel and clearance of the actual speaker itself behind the interior panel will have an impact, and do you want to trim some of the interior panel to make it fit. So this could almost be rephrased as "what is the maximum spacer thickness" and yet the clearance issue remains unresolved in this aspect also. One solution uncovers another problem. EDIT: This could very well deserve to be the stickiest damn thread on the site! Mods, seriously, this should probably replace a thread or two at the top since it DOES happen to reference some of the current stickies that maybe don't necessarily need to be there anymore. Just my input.