Tomkat1127

Ok, sort of confused here, Been looking for answers. If I need to start a new post I will. This will be for a 08 LGT Limited with the 5EAT automatic. Car is stock for now, looking to learn more about tuning. Will probably pay for a protune or at least e-tune down the road. First lets make sure I got the process right. I will use my Openport 2.0 to physically connect my laptop to my car, then I use ECUFlash to read/access my ROM, them RomRaider to log and edit my ROM, then ECUFLASH the modified map back to my cars ECU. 1.) Does any know for sure if RomRaider supports the 08+ 5EAT ECU rom's All I found was small a bit in post 19 of this thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/learning-tuningi-133458.html?t=133458&highlight=tactrix+5EAT 2.) If so do I need to download RomRaider ECU and logger definition files from somewhere other than the Romraider site (http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=360 and here http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1642.html) Any explanations or help?

Exactly, that's my problem with them, too many little components. If I can't smack it with my BFH, then I don't know what to do. Actually, I could do it it, if I wanted too. Nah, it just sounds more "glamorous" then it really is. Still fun when people ask where do you work. My response "OH, I just work for a small engineering company designing and selling nuclear devices for industrial measurement uses". There eyes usually widen and you can tell they have no clue what it is we do, but to them since all radiation is bad and mysterious then I can play it up. OK, sorry a little off-track, back to your regularly scheduled VB thread....

Funny ain't it? How once something is "familiar" then all the scariness goes away. I deal with nuclear sizing and safety all day long but wouldn't touch the internals of more than a Turbo350/400 automatic or a C4/6 auto. I disagree on the engine builder thing. I think an engine builder can get away with a little more sloppiness sometimes.

I got family in the DFW area, told the wife lets go see them (didn't tell the real reason) He. He. Why can't "our day" as in "us 08 guys" be today.......? Come on someone, anyone, rapid prototype the R&D....

This thread is moving fast... I can see and believe the resistor is needed for the 08+ cars due to the upgraded Can Bus system is probably reporting on lots more PID's then the 05-07 OBII cars. I'm not rich and can not afford a 5K race tranny (ever) on top of the performance parts cost, just to get my car to hold 300HP+ (my goal). Everything I will do, is researched one piece at a time and is paid for in the same way. If it can be installed by itself, then it would be. If enough proof is shown to me and it can be done for under $1K then the door is open for me

Wow, I hope all works out well on the first couple of 05-07's that you do as commercial business. If all does go well I am sure the 5EAT crowd will beat your door down. Wonder if someone like Transgo or B&M will take notice after you beat them to market with a working solution. Get to the 08+ ASAP.........

Don't know about you but I didn't think 30 made me an old grandpa! Sometimes I feel like it, I guess it's the wild nights and accidents...

Wow, that sounds great even on these crappy laptop speakers. I am so in awe of you guys, wish these were still available! Well, the search for something else continues...what's this Bosal 1.5 all about?

Frankly I didn't think you would reveal the big secret. So, spill the beans then.... I hope someone can make these hold up to Stage 2-3+. Kinda regret getting the 5EAT until now, there now appears to be hope. All I want is stage 2-3 power (70-100HP over stock), a tranny the shifts firm and fast and a good sounding exhaust.

LGT 5eat car year? 08 IPT VB mod already performed? No Are you willing to pay close to but less than IPT prices (perhaps again) for a proper shift kit modification performed by fellow 5eat performance enthusiast ClimberD himself? - From the day I heard of IPT and looked at the VB, I told myself that $769 was alot of $ for a modification to my valve body. It shouldn't cost that much is what I thought, but if they are the only ones then so be it. It is strange they do not make claims to a "upgraded this", or "your car should hold XX HP with proper operating 5EAT". I am disgusted with the slow poor up-shifts, especially in manual moder and not even at WOT. Some down-shifts are sloppy or hard too. I am interested in what anyone can do with the 5EAT. I want to find a way to make it hold up to a 16G or 18B billet, stage 3 setup down the road. I want to see some claims and testing of what a stock VS. IPT vs. anyone else modfied VB or tranny will hold. At some point I think one would have to upgrade the clutches and plates or even new shafts (billet) and/or converter stall. Does anyone offer any TCM tuner I am surprised the AP or device, doesn't up the line pressure or someone else has't already figured out the "$2 radio shack resistor" thing. That is not the best way (from what I know and have hard), the only way to make a slushbox better is to upgrade it's parts.

I think the SI drive, specifically the Sport# versus the Intelligent mode is a huge difference when the LGT is a automatic equipped 5EAT car. I believe 09 LGT (2010 is newest style or 5th Gen) was the last year Subaru included the SIDrive system on any car but WRX STI in which it lives on along with DCCD (Drive Controlled Center Differential).

Sh*ty brakes are better than brake lock up or little to know brakes. It does now sound like a bad part. My guess is a bad BB or check valve, but maybe not the MC. Instead of typing all this I cheated and did a Google search for you. Here is what they say at http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfixes.htm "HARD BRAKE PEDAL Lack of power assist may be due to low engine vacuum, a leaky vacuum hose to the brake booster, or a defective brake booster. The booster is located between the master brake cylinder and firewall in the engine compartment. Sometimes a faulty check valve will allow vacuum to bleed out of the booster causing a hard pedal when the brakes are applied. This condition can be diagnosed by starting the engine (to build vacuum), shutting it off, waiting four or five minutes, then trying the brakes to see if there is power assist. No assist means a new check valve is needed. A quick way to check the vacuum booster is to pump the brake pedal several times with the engine off to bleed off any vacuum that may still be in the unit. Then hold your foot on the pedal and start the engine. If the booster is working, the amount of effort required to hold the pedal should drop and the pedal itself may depress slightly. If nothing happens and the vacuum connections to the booster unit are okay, a new booster is needed (the vacuum hose should be replaced, too). On vehicles equipped with "Hydroboost" power brakes, a hard pedal can be caused by a loose power steering pump belt, a low fluid level, leaks in the power hoses, or leaks or faulty valves in the hydroboost unit itself (the latter call for rebuilding or replacing the booster). On vehicles that use the ABS pump to generate brake boost, a problem with the ABS pump or high pressure accumulator can cause a loss of power assist. This will usually cause the ABS WARNING LIGHT to come on. The ABS system will also set a fault code that corresponds to the problem, which requires a scan tool to read." Could there be more than one type (vacuum rating) of check valve, maybe from different years?

I second the above. Maybe, a vacuum bleed of the brake system is needed. Was the MC used and full of fluid before you started. Most new and refurbished MC call to be bench bled before installed and then each wheel bled after install. Some say that you never want to let the ABS modules (or VDC for the matter) run dry, as you may never get all the air out. Dealers have to hook their diagnostic testers to the car and cycle the ABS and still vacuum bleed. The check valve installed direction could be it too! How did you determine the bullet shaped in went toward the intake? Integroid should be to confirm this since he installed the same MC/BB/CV combo. Sorry, but I am glad I held off buying any parts to swap mine.

Subject car is 08 LGT with 5EAT currently 100% stock (no nav). I am pretty sure the Tactrix 2.0 cable is the one I need for my year (CAN BUS car, right?). I am above average mechanically and computer savy. I can load whatever OS I need for programming and may even have a old P3 733mhz I can dedicate to this process. My questions is. Am I better off with a Cobb AP, Tactric cable and ECUflash, or another brand programmer? The ideal of e-tuning is appealing due to no relatively closer tuner's or 4 wheel dyno's.

Subscribed.

Still waiting to see someone try this with a 08+ LGT (also with a 5EAT if it matters). Someone mentioned inner and outer bleeders, is this referring those of you that have aftermarket brake calipers? Would love to reduce the poor stopping performance of my LGT but can't quite spend $1-3 grand on Brembo, Wilwood, or others. I drive way too much to run performance pads (are they softer or harder pads I wonder?) that wear out quick and leave tons of dust.

You car is insane, 580WHP!!! Is it your daily driver? If so what kind of mileage you get (considering if you can keep your foot out of it). I need to look up your mods, I bet you are not even on a stock block are you? I need to start planning and saving what I want to do with my 08 LGT but fear the 5EAT will not last. I would be happy getting to 320-350HP until I got there and said nope still not enough.... LOL .

Kinda thought it was strange for NAPA (which does sometimes carry more then say Advance Auto or Zone). If they have anything it would have probably been from the HELP! (the bright red packages) or Dorman catalog. I know the store I worked out only could get a small handful check valves. $18 sounds reasonable for a dealer price.

It's odd that I find this thread. I too thought that the brakes are way to soft for such a sporty car as the LGT. I came from a 05 Corolla that Integriod mentions and yes the brakes were good on it. Even the wifes Accord felt like it had better brakes. Does anyone know for sure if this will work on a 08? At less than $70 it well worth money (cheaper than pad/rotor upgrade).