BrandonJ 2001 GT Limited

That's what I was thinking, and was going to do it anyways unless someone threw up a red flag to not do it for some unknown reason. I just read over the part on the first page that said do a bed-in with either/or on a pad/rotor change but nothing about both and was kinda confused.

Ok, I read through this and the other brake sticky. And didn't see an exact answer from the experts. I'm replacing all 4 calipers, rotors, F&R pads all in one shot for two reasons. #1 - I had a seal go bad on a rear caliper, I rebuilt the caliper which was way too easy and the bleed screw was frozen, I forgot to spray it with PB and it broke off. Became a big PITA to get a replacement screw as no one carried one and I didn't have an easy-out. So...I'm saying flock it...and replacing the caliper. I also figured it couldn't hurt to replace the other rear caliper as well while I have the $$ and time and be proactive on the seals. #2 - 00-02 LGT's (Limited's too) had the 10.7" front rotors. In 03-04 they were upgraded to the 11.4" WRX rotors. I've read it can be done by just replacing the bracket and getting the larger rotor, but the bracket is $35 where I can get a new caliper w/bracket from NAPA for $60. So she's getting all new hardware for about $550, no more frozen bleed screws to worry about, good piston seals, and an extra half-inch in the front. Which brings me to my actual question....since I'm replacing both pads and rotors at the same time...is there a suggested bed-in for this case? Or is it even needed?

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/409684_2953764164561_1275120763_3342555_227731626_n.jpg http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/383860_2961363474539_1275120763_3346515_472256479_n.jpg http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/379038_2961363874549_1275120763_3346516_1771540426_n.jpg

Shouldnt this belong in the redneck thread?

glasspack, 3 1/2" tip, stock manifold. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNgKABIrNiQ]01 LGT...2" i.d. resonator, 26"long w/ 3 1/2" tip - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcejlty6T78]01 LGT 2" i.d. resonator, 26" length, 3 1/2" tip...revs - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNgKABIrNiQ]01 LGT...2" i.d. resonator, 26"long w/ 3 1/2" tip - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcejlty6T78]01 LGT 2" i.d. resonator, 26" length, 3 1/2" tip...revs - YouTube[/ame] stock manifold 2" i'd', 26" long, 3 1/2" dia body cherry bomb resonator, painted black 3 1/2" tip, cut and welded to resonator. air box resonator piping delete ~$30

Another year or two...new house is next. Then I'll be looking for an 08-09 Spec B.

I sat in a '11 yesterday at the IN state fair with my son, and said ooooh...Daddy like. Then I looked at the sticker price....lol

I'm thinking about pulling my muffler, running one of those split into two exits.

check out an AeroTurbine AR25 resonator...$60 and looks nice

I dont think it sounds too loud..lol

That's a lot less than I expected

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html If you want your speedo to read the same as before....you need to keep the 225/45-17's ...if you go up in width and aspect ratio, you'll be off by nearly 5 mph slower than your actual.

That's not too bad really for a factory rim, especially imported. The ones on my Spyder were 16x8 and were stolen a few years back. Insurance was going to pay $450 per rim w/o tires.

btw...what did those rims set you back? I'd love to get ahold of a set for mine.

Yeah, it was on there when I bought it and I have been meaning to get out and take it off. Attempted to yesterday, but there is a spot behind the "G" on the drivers side where it looks like someone poked a hole through the pillar, covered it up and didnt use the correct touch-up color. So for now I'm going to leave them on until I have a few bucks together to get some spots repainted correctly.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6035/5913515066_4f57c23a42.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5235/5912953865_2aed50e759.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5035/5912954975_288f2dc81e.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6039/5912956247_e547920870.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6035/5912957131_c279f57826.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6047/5913519646_d05181d7d9.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6027/5912958369_e0fbf745ab.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6041/5913520894_f00c2fe62d.jpg

The black box seems to be over to the right far enough on mine to clear a muffler if I would add another one. My plan is to run a split straight pipe with a welded on flange to bolt up to the existing flange @ the axle. Then end it with resonated tips. See how that sounds. I dont care about "loud", however I dont want too high of a raspy pitch. So I'll tweak as needed if I end up sounding like a honda/fart cannon, but from what I've heard on youtube, it's hard to not get a rumble even with pipe only, so I may be ok. BUT....I also got an offer over on IIC to pick up a FXT/STI catback exhaust from an 04 FXT for free. I looked on youtube and it does sound like there's a considerable tone difference between a stock 2.5i catback and the STI catback on the same NA car. But I'd still love the look of the duals. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O430FimBGuA&feature=related]YouTube - STI Catback Exhaust on 2007 Impreza 2.5i (Before and After)[/ame]

This might be my next mod...if I can get it done cheaply enough...

Either they have been repainted @ some point or just well taken care of...not a bit of peeling on the mirrors

oh yeahI know it's way too much...I would be relucant to even pay half that for everything even if I was nieve and didnt know I could do 75% of the work in my driveway with hand tools. Mine looks good...at least from what I've noticed.

4Reel....your car looks vaguely familiar....I like it...lol

no idea, they just had it broken down into total cost for each repair(rack, (3)boots,(2)rear calipers, pads, allignment, 60k svc, brake fluid change and radiator flush + tax and shop materials running close to $3400...about $600 alone for the 60k and $125 ea for flush and fluid changes. They tried telling me that even though I changed with NGK G-plats..the only plugs that would properly work were the "Subaru" plugs *rolls eyes* That's why I'm hitting up a couple other local shops to see what they think about the calipers...they didnt tell me if it was one or both. And they didnt say how bad the rack was leaking either. There have been no squeals or drivability issues, fluid levels are @ their proper locations, driveway was clean when it was snow covered....so we'll see.

Yeah...they wanted $600 for calipers and $1100 for rack, $50 ea for ball boots, $250 for CV boot, and another $130 to allign and other asst parts...like $2500 total.......no drivability issues, so I wouldnt have known until later...I can get the calipers like I said for $60 ea and $280 for the rack...pads and fluid shouldnt be another $50....Boots wont be too bad either...will just need one of my friends with an open garage and a good weekend, then take it to a shop for an allignment.

Yeah, unfortunately I wont be doing too much more until I get the ball joint boots and driver side CV boot replaced (CV I noticed last week when i got underneath to look a bit)....then a rear brake job including new calipers since the dealer said they are seeping. they also said the steering rack is seeping, but I'm getting 2nd opinions on it all from a non-dealer shop. Found stock calipers for $60 ea, but I might check for someone that has WRX or STI rears they are no longer using if they will fit. That work I can do on my own with a little help from my friends...steering rack sounds a bit more involved.