BigTDogg MA

More recent shot. She's not super hooked up, but plenty modded for my tastes. I prefer to keep the sleeper aesthetic.

Get a car seat protector. I have two of these:

Summer Infant Elite DuoMat for Car Seat, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00368CLXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zeCBybVCH8SP1

 

I like the triple pocket at the bottom. I can store an extra water for them and me, and reach it from the driver's seat.

 

Helps to distribute the pressure points on the seat and catches the sand, dirt and crumbs.

That's pretty sweet. I currently use a towel, which ain't too bad.

Thanks. Funny how the manual says the fuse box is under the right side of the drivers seat, when it's actually behind the door on the lower left part of the dash.

 

So I have codes -

 

C0115 - means I have a problem with an ABS speed sensor.

C0105 - Abnormal signal from RR speed sensor

C0107 - Abnormal signal from RF speed sensor

 

Now I'm really confused. I wasn't expecting to see codes from 2 corners. I took it back to America's yesterday and they took a look at it. There was nothing noticeably out of the ordinary.

 

I may need to get her back on my buddy's lift to take a closer look.

 

Thoughts?

Exact same codes today. Gonna try this first though...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2794600&postcount=17

Part number is ST20204ZR000. I don't think you will be able to get these from your local dealer it is not a US part. You have to go to Rallispec, Japanparts etc getting them from JDM land.

 

They won't be cheap, and it is a small bushing so the effect is very small compared to the large rearward bushing. Buy them only if you just can't live with not going all the way and doing both LCA bushings cost be damned.

Ah, that's good to know. So I guess the 20204ZR010 is the rear one, right? Is the OEM STI bushing solid rubber? Unlike the OEM LGT one?

Thanks for this Brian, definitely saved my stumble. There is mechanical chatter at idle, but it's worth it.

I also have 4 of the Doorman adapters, brand new, which I cannot return so if anyone wants some cheaper than Amazon, hit me up

About 300lbs of Ikea stuff from last fall

I don't think I could ever go back to a sedan

Granted, most additives don't contain the same solvents that the B-12 does, but to make a general statement that fuel additives lower octane ratings is incorrect.

To generalize was my error. But I can say with certainty that the Redline SI-1 does indeed lower knock resistance.

Anything with Toluene certainly would not, as I know of people adding toluene to 93 to raise octane levels. Though its value is low due to the cost of the toluene.

I was as surprised as you are. We were listening to the factory knock sensor on headphones through a J&S Safeguard box. Injectors were 5k miles old, fuel filter was new OEM etc etc. Long pole in the tent was the original, 21 year old fuel pump. But a simple switch of fuel is all it took to be sparkling clean on the headphones. Frankly I don't know why I added the cleaner in the first place.

I don't use any at all on my LGT since my injectors and pump are new.

I'm still wanting to find out specifics about two lost engines to MMO, as well as how injector cleaners reduce octane and which then induce knock ...

It displaces gasoline, and if it's a solvent, then it has a lower knock resistance. I experienced this first hand while tuning my Z32 on the dyno. I dumped a bottle of Redline cleaner into the tank, and began doing baseline pulls. Knock knock knockin on heaven's door.

Drained tank, refilled with straight 93 (with 10% ethanol) and no knock, same baseline tune. Gas wasn't more than 2 weeks old.

Just be sure you're not logging or tuning while you have some in your tank. Regardless of brand, it lowers your overall octane rating, and thus your resistance to knock.

The B-12 is great as mentioned, and for lubrication I use Klotz Uplon upper cylinder lubricant. Mostly just because I have it laying around as I use it as a lube for my methanol injection system anyway.

Rotella T6 on sale at Amazon.com for $18.36 with free shipping. Go to coupons, search Automotive and you'll see the Rotella one. Then you go to this page for the $5 rebate from Shell, so $13.36 for a gallon of Rotella.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006A49TAM/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive]Shell Rotella T6 gallon on Amazon[/ame]

$5 rebate per gallon.

The deal is not better with the case of 3 and the subscribe and save, because the rebate is limited to 2 per household.

I very reputable shop told me mobile one has the consistency water when it gets hot. Obviously there's more to it then that but that's how they explained it

Depends on the M1, but I agree.

I just did an oil change and used the Valvoline NextGen Synthetic 5W-30. I'll get a UOA at the end of the 3750 and keep an eye on consumption. Tried it because it was on sale for $20 with a K&N filter at Advance.

I also got some Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 to try next.

Rotella T6 is still my summer go-to.

Bren was busy tonight...

 

http://www.brentuning.com/dyno/graph.php?gb=0&hp=1&torque=1&rpm=1&sl=1&sln=1&sat=0&cb=0&dgr=1&smm=0&sg=1&runid1=17&rgb1=000000255&runid2=336&rgb2=204000000

http://www.sigmafour.net/lgt/motherofgod.jpg

It was a joke BigT - just that it's all in Japanese. I am not an idiot. Actually that can be debated.

Interwebs sarcasm can be difficult at times... after seeing how proper you routed and installed the AEM I should have realized it was a joke

I am planning to install a double din at some point but I use a 1/2 din EQ on my headunit and the whole thing used to be installed in the cubby. The only reason I haven't installed the double din headunit yet is two fold... I can't decide on what would work for me and the existing setup works and sounds amazing.

 

Good tools are critical... I have bought cheaper, I regret it every time.

Very nice, I've got an older Alpine with an analog EQ in my Z32, great stuff. If you could find a 1/2 DIN pocket that would be amazing, dunno how available they are though.

I had an old Radio Shack soldering iron for the last 12 or so years, just got the Weller a couple of weeks ago. Amazing the difference it made. I still have the RS one if I want to poke holes in fabric or something

Off to look at the rest of the pretty pictures now

 

I have NO idea what this was trying to tell me. if anything it slowed me down trying to work it out.

 

http://www.sigmafour.net/build/IMG_0422.jpg

Seems pretty clear to me, just showing you how to bolt and ground the brackets. Any shots of your double DIN with the lights on (not in the dark). The single DIN and the pocket is a great move, but it looks like you have a single DIN EQ in there?

Are you running a safe boost system with the AEM? In that if your pump fails or you run out of meth it triggers the ECU or runs open wastegate?

BTW, I have the exact same soldering station. Thing is awesome. It's amazing what good tools can do.

Neil FTW

Fixed

not really sure you can apply "sleeper" to a LGT. its built to be quick so people already expect it to be quick. now maybe if you had a stealth FMIC and 2.5i hood maybe.

I forgot I quoted this, but everyone already set you straight, LOL. The LGT looks like every other Legacy to the untrained (read, car-person) eye. This would be a redonk sleeper if it were a wagon, but still a sleeper nonetheless. Not even tinted windows! Impressive.

New and I have no issues or complaints about the fitment. Has been on the car since July - Made it through this winter with no rust so far!

As you may or may not know, Borlas have a million mile warranty.

Alberto is a fantastic mech. Glad he's in our area. I'm dropping my whip off there tonight. I'll be getting her back Monday, a transformed gal.

What are you using for meth? I run Boost Juice in my Z32 and it's great stuff. It has the most meth you can ship without a hazmat cert. Oh, and spraying before the turbo? Who's idea was that?