BigTDogg MA

PCV Hose kit for the 2005 Legacy GT is 11815AB790, Correct? Thanks gang!

Can the PCV assembly be replaced with the IC off? I just checked and mine is 110k miles old :-/

Rear has a tow loop built in to the bumper, does wagon not? Front is going to be tricky finding a spot that is strong enough structurally but doesn’t let the strap from flexing the bumper.

 

Wagon does have rear loop on the jack point.

Hey gang, loooong time since I've been active here, but I know where to go when I do have a question

 

I'm replacing my knock sensor soon, and I'm attempting to do it without removing my throttle body. I would like to replace hoses which are under the IC down in that area since I'm in there. Does anyone have a list of the hoses in there that I should replace?

 

 

I'm thinking #29, maybe #21 and #22? Any other tips or tricks I should know about this job? I've got long needle nose pliers, bunch of extensions and wobbles, magnetic wands etc and I'm mechanically inclined with the vocabulary of a sailor.

Trans swap stuff still available?

I'm going to try to get a resin rod replacement (there's a TSB about this - search), and just leave it as is. I don't use the sunroof that much, and the deflector going up and down isn't worth $1K to me..

 

Yooooooo ZOMBIE THREAD!!!

 

Long story short, my LGT sunroof has failed. Resin rod broke, but I haven't checked for blockage yet. Will do. If possible, could you link to the TSB? I did search, which is how I found this thread, and I'll search now on that TSB. But just in case I come up blank. TIA!!

Are these the same size as OEM? I've noticed a lowspeed clicking when turning, and wonder if these are messing with my CV axles. Replaced both axles and the issue persists.

Just did this yesterday, followed the write up as guidance. USDM cars don't have a cable to the exterior handle, there's a solid rod. Easy enough to work around.

 

Didn't have to remove the window, but it takes some patience maneuvering the unit around taking out and reinstalling.

Thanks to Chrisay's suggestion I opened mine up today and repaired successfully. The motor is in a sealed plastic case which can be fairly easiy split open by running a craft knife along the seam.

 

It's a poor design on Subaru's behalf. Motor sits at the bottom of the case where molten grease collects (and there is a LOT of it). Hopefully with all the excess cleaned out now I am good for another 6 years.

 

I wrote up a DIY:

 

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10479

 

Great write up sir, thank you!

 

did you have to remove the window as per the FSM, or were you able to leave it in?

Would you be interested in my BNR HTA68? I've been noodling going back down to a 16g/VF52.

 

Thanks but I already bought a new Blouch 16g from my installer.

 

I'm so sick of this car, I just want it to be over. Get the turbo and injectors in and then tune and be done. I just want to drive it without being afraid it's going to blow up and leave me in financial ruins.

 

/vent mode

My power was 271, torque was 299. Mustang dynos read differently and everything so yeah, it was a ball park number.

 

Stocks are 550cc/min

So this is my current build:

 

Apexi dry filter

Grimmspeed TMIC

VF52

 

DW65C pump

OEM injectors on Agency Power fuel rails

 

STI crank

King bearings

Manley 99.75 pistons

Manley H-Tuff rods

STI cams

Brian Crower Intake valve set

Brian Crower SS exhaust valve set

ARP head studs

Brian Crower valve springs and retainers

Killer B Oil Baffle

Killer B Oil Pickup

Cometic Subaru EJ25 100mm Bore .030" Head Gasket

STI 11mm Oil Pump

 

Perrin Headers

Grimmspeed UP

Cobb catted DP

Borla exhaust

 

 

Want to swap out the turbo with something else. Another 52 or something better. Not going bigger on fuel. My previous dyno below:

 

 

Only difference between this engine and the one dynoed there is that engine had OEM rods and Wiesco drop-ins, and OEM cams. I figure the BNR EVO3 16g is perfect, and may even fatten up my power and torque curves.

I don't think you can do 400 chp (300 whp) with stock injectors.. Even with 650s and bnr16g, I hit 225 whp (stock gutted pipes/tmic) back in 2010.. up from ~160 whp stock.

 

I'm not gonna be pissed if I don't hit 300, I just want a good, safe tune. Last time around she it 271WHP with a VF52 and a less-than-ideal clutch. Tuner thought the setup was good for more, but the clutch hated me.

So my VF52 is on it's way out. I need a turbo soon, as I'm tuning on 10/11. BNRs seem like a good option. I want to keep my UP and DP, I'm on a DW65c with stock injectors on parallel feed AP rails. Grimmspeed TMIC. Looking for around 300WHP/350WTQ, 93 octane fuel. I'm thinking a 16g should be plenty, or would I need to go to an 18g?

 

Any other options available?

Yep, the OB JDM rear bumper is definitely deeper than the JDM LGT wagon rear bumper. From Scooby2.5's classified ad

I'm running a LGT sedan beam under a JDM Outback bumper and the only fitment issues I had was when I introduced the foam absorber.

 

Right, but the JDM Outback bumper sticks out as far as a sedan, IIRC, and the main difference is the rearward (not downturned) exhaust exit. Correct? I'll look at some shots of the guy who built that monster XT, I forget his SN.

 

I tried a rough dry fit of the bumper on my wagon bar (identical to the sedan bar) with no foam and I can't see how it could fit. I think the AL bar will need to be trimmed somewhat.

How are the bushings on these? Stiff as STi stockers?

I am planning to do the same mod very soon. I have had the bumper collecting dust in my garage for the past 1.5 months... I need to get it painted first.

 

I'll let you know what my shop does to save you some headache, hopefully

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_71/body_equipment_exterior/rear_bumper/

 

Looks like they have a beam but no foam absorber. This is for an EDM wagon which I'm assuming is the same.

 

Thanks, looks like they used the same beam, at least in the sketch. Did a google image search on 57712AG120 and it's identical to the the USDM beam. Def no foam there though. Thanks!

 

from my understanding jdm wagon do not use reinforcement beam .

 

just trim your beam and keep only the flat section of the aluminium beam . this is what i did .

 

That's what it looks like here, but the EDM wagon uses the same bumper. Do you think it'll fit with just the beam and no foam? I've directed the body shop to do what you suggest (cutting the bump-out) if need be, but I don't want to run with out a beam there.

 

Thanks guys, was getting in panic mode now that the information I had previously didn't work out. Will be so happy just to have the car back!

Hi all, I got a sedan beam, but it's identical to the wagon beam. The mounts etc are identical. The foam is different, is that the only difference?

 

Can someone help here? Was there a change in 2008 for the sedan rear beam? Does anyone know the PN of the smaller rear beam?

Ill just go and post my favorite pic of my ABP

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238058&stc=1&d=1474514346

 

Although she will be going through a color change in a few years. Deciding between Subaru Aspen White or Subaru's Sunrise Yellow:cool:

 

What's the deal on that scoop? Looks awesome.

 

Pics of my reworked ABP coming soon.

Anyone have pics of either of these configurations?

 

- OEM rear bumper, area around exhaust blacked out.

- JDM rear bumper

- JDM rear bumper, area around exhaust blacked out.

So I've got the bumper, need to know what else I need different than wagon config. The crash bar and foam from a sedan, what about side supports etc. Need to order the OEM parts soon to start repairs.

Sup yall. On Monday, this happened:

 

 

As the tow driver was taking my car off the flat bed, it rolled down a hill after the tow hook came out of the frame. Smashed into some small trees and timbers.

 

I need a new rear bumper. I found a deal on a JDM wagon rear bumper. My question is:

 

It includes only the bumper, what else do I need? Any brackets ETC different than USDM? If I use a sedan crash bar and foam, will it fit? I've tried searching and that's where I got the sedan CB idea from. But kinda need to know ASAP because the lead on the bumper is 10 days or so. Want to get my car fixed soon.

 

Thanks in advance!

Sup yall. On Monday, this happened:

 

 

As the tow driver was taking my car off the flat bed, it rolled down a hill after the tow hook came out of the frame. Smashed into some small trees and timbers.

 

I need a new rear bumper. I found a deal on a JDM wagon rear bumper. My question is:

 

It includes only the bumper, what else do I need? Any brackets ETC different than USDM? If I use a sedan crash bar and foam, will it fit? I've tried searching and that's where I got the sedan CB idea from. But kinda need to know ASAP because the lead on the bumper is 10 days or so. Want to get my car fixed soon.

 

Thanks in advance!