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Drew888

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Posts posted by Drew888

  1. I appreciate your help.

     

    Last question, which would you get if you were updating an old XC bike and...forced to ride it, the same way you ride your current bike, for a few months? I word it like this because I know that once 20lbs comes off that I'll not run out to buy another but beat on my current bike much more before I spend the $.

     

    Rock Shox 30 Silver TK

     

    Or

     

    Manitou Match Comp

     

    Just located this Fox 32 Float RLC, circa 2009-2010 Is it worth $100 more?

     

    Thanks!

  2. Thanks all, I'll do just that and just get out more and see where it goes. At this point I can't even comment on the type of riding I do so this may be a bit premature. All is good on it. I just replaced the tires and brake pads and the only thing it needs is a fork that isn't impossible to get support for. The Noleen MegaAir is very light and had great reviews...back then but.

    Keep your eyes out for me for a decent v-brake suspension fork 80-100mm. I think I'll stop there.

  3. Hey guys I've been on here for years and only now thought to look in here because I've dusted off my bike and decided to get my fat @ss back into shape.

    I'm 48 and built my bike up starting with a frame purchase back in 2001, a K2 team. It's 24# fully suspended and although old it's basically new. All pivots are smooth and I kept it lubed, and no play.

    I used to ride GG park in SF and across the bridge up to Mt Tam quite often in the 80's. This was when a mountain bike looked like a converted road bike. Oh the memories.

    I rode it once a couple weeks ago doing the Fullerton loop in SoCal and had a blast and the bike performed great.

    I may have a question or two for you guys as I try to get back into it but for now I'm trying to read online about this "geometry" craze. I'll have to go look up or measure my frame but I'll assume it's very "standard". I have cut my steerer tube maybe 3/4" taller and shimed the stem so it's a little taller but this was done back in the day. I'll get a couple pics soon. I'll need to keep it until I can get in shape and prove to myself that the expense of a new bike is worth it. So any advice as to what you might change/upgrade will be appreciated.

    The first thing that comes to mind is my fork. It has a slow leak and I'd rather replace then rebuild as fork tech has come a long way and I think I'd benefit.

    Anyway, looking forward to your input.

     

    Drew

    _IMG4177-1.thumb.jpg.6a859a7d8eb173ca4e9c8004a95e454d.jpg

  4. I'm walking into the dealer on June 20th to pick up a black SS and can't wait.

     

    Family needs a sedan and I need an LGT replacement so the SS it is. My son just turned 17 today and after next year he's off to college with his sister 3 years behind him. With paying into private catholic high schools and college $$$ looming over our heads I have to wait a bit. The best I can do now is just get myself back into shape and save like mad. You'd think I'd buy a Prius but...just can't. The SS will be my only vice.

     

    Car looks great Gator and great job on the paint. Can wait for the next update.

  5. I seem to only be able to get here once every couple of weeks but what a great read.

     

    Eager to know if you can nail down just what happened to the Spec-B. Bottom end was built by one of the best so very curious.

     

    Funny knowing what I know now just how little changes I'd make if I were ever to pick up another one. I still think the 08-09 Spec-B's are great but maybe a 2011+ STI.

  6. Sorry a little late to the game I see. I've been meaning to chime in but have been busy.

    Regarding the earlier brake cooling discussion can we assume all had first tried Ti shims and two piece rotors? I haven't read of anyone mentioning them. Just curious if that is a common place to start.

     

    After that, well just a great read. I love popping in for updates! I'll just have to get in here a bit more often.

     

    Oh, and Gator...the Spec-B has new front bearings (I think the only thing not relatively new are any rear rubber bushings). Interested to know if those control arm wings will help any.

  7. Hey there Jim! Thanks for pointing me back to this thread. It's been a long while since I've poked around in here. I have read everything and watched all the vids and love the progress. You are it my man, we are all racing vicariously through you. I'm excited to see this story unfold.

     

    I have two kids in private school and in another 1.5yrs my son will be a freshman in college. Expenses are growing and I knew they would. Before my major issues and 2 year fight with Garage Tuning I had about 10k set aside to play and, expecting only hpde events, this (and additional parts as needed) would have carried me to now. I never made it and can't afford a separate race car so...again, living vicariously through you Jim until both kids are well into their 2nd or 3rd year of college. I'll then get to rethink this and hopeully get a second chance around the age of maybe 50-52.

     

     

    Definitely go with the 1.5xtr. More then enough turbo for 345whp and you won't loose spool...

     

    I completely agree with Surgeline and GEX. The 1.5 XTR is a great way to go. This combined with my spare (fully forged) long block with 9.2:1 pistons and you'd still gain on the low end making low end issues a non issue.

     

    On the Perrin ELH, it's a nice piece but I recently installed a new Tomioka ELH and immediately noticed more torque so very glad I swapped it out. The piping is a little larger and helps with flow. An ELH will help to control the higher temps out of cylinder #4. In my current engine the porting/polishing/bowl blend almost eliminates this in and by itself. Hmmm, my 9.2:1, Cosworth heads, KillerB parts (pan, tray, pickup), and your 1.5xtr would be quite serious ;)

     

     

    KillerB oil pan & windage tray saved my engine more than once. Extra deep and fits all standard header configs. The KillerB HolyHeader is an awesome piece if you are going ELH.

     

    If you can swing $1500 for a header than this is truly worth it. It typically has gains in the 20-35whp area over any other ELH header.

     

    AOS - the GS is complete crap. The Crawford seems to work well - met a track rat with one in his STI. He had it hooked to a catchcan.

     

    The thing here is to not recirc the line back to your intake but to a catch can.

     

    While it's low on the lb/min, the HTA68 has worked well for me putting out 335wtq on a mustang. As the hp rating is the only part that matters, you'd be able to run very high tq numbers and still make the cut on hp.

     

    The hta68 was not great for me as it only starts to wake up at 21 psi or so (approaching it's efficiency range). For this reason it's an absolutely stellar turbo on E85 but terrible on 91.

     

    Happy New Year to you and yours everyone!

  8. First of all ... thanks for the support Matt!

     

    An IAT sensor bung is huge! and it can be capped for those that don't feel the need to relocate theirs. If they understood the benefit, all at/beyond stg 2 would move it.

     

    Please consider this, thanks.

     

    Second, "I think an iat sensor bung on the outlet side would be enough to set it apart from the rest and make a lot of people switch over. This would be great for speed density tuning on a tmic setup. It would also give a lot of people the ability to easily measure true Intake temps since there are a lot of tech geeks that just want to know."

     

     

    Oh and BTW, if this works out I'd be switching from a FMIC :)

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