Dispatch20

#407 popped up in a highly suspicious ad on Rochester NY Craigslist: http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/4989829276.html text simply says "reply via email" with no other notes. 2006 subaru spec b odometer: 106 paint color : silver fuel : gas transmission : manual title status : clean cylinders : 4 cylinders condition: excellent http://images.craigslist.org/00Y0Y_hbqkPsfJLOn_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/01111_2Mmcg2ZjNGf_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/01414_7YkKEsQ4YlP_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/01313_1Ip4j78KM4W_600x450.jpg

This exact thing happened to me. For some reason, it took me a while to figure it out. I guess the rubber stopper blended in with the track and I assumed it was supposed to be there.

I guess I don't understand the appeal of the tapping into the mirror harness. It's very easy to run a wire to the cabin fuse box. The 2 plastic cover panels (A-pillar, side of dash) aren't even held on with any hardware so it literally only takes 2 minutes. Taking the pictures of the process was far more work than actually taking off the panels. On the other hand, it I guess it would save a few $ not to buy another fuse and fuse tap.

Very nice! My favorite color. Trade for an LGT?

After reading your post, I specifically listened for a whine sound in my 3.0R. I do get a mechanical "whir" that increases with RPM. I guess one might call it a medium-high "whine" I can really only hear it in 1-3rd gear as the rpms go up. At highway speeds it quiet. It's hard to be sure if it's the same sound you are hearing, but it might be. I always assumed it was the timing chain and regular flat 6 valve train sound. I guess it could be some of the belt driven accessories like a power steering pump.

#238 is currently for sale in the marketplace. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-fl-2006-subaru-legacy-gt-spec-b-235666.html

It looks like part number "H501SAG030" based on other Subaru and Saabaru dash cam installs. Should be a $10-$15 part. Some links: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/connector-auto-dimming-rear-view-mirror-230186.html http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69023 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2457647 In my case, both my cars had a homelink compass installed and I didn't want to splice the factory harness. I wanted it more reversible.

That's a good idea, too! Many good ways to get this job done depending on the owners preference. I think one thing that people may not appreciate is how fast and easy it is to remove the a-pillar trim and fuse panel trim. It's literally 30 seconds of effort. The most annoying part of the way I did it was making the custom wire harness.

Good tips! I can't quite figure out how your harness works. Does your autodimming mirror & compass still work? It looks like you removed the harness for the mirror and replaced it with the merged one above that only powers up the Dash Cam. I don't see a splice that would run down to the mirror.

Right behind the mirror on the passenger side and it was mounted just high enough so I can see the status LEDs above it. I can't see the video on the screen, but that's OK. I like having minimal distraction and obstructions in my view of the road. I finished edited the post to add the rest of the pictures after you posted your question.

This dash cam install was done on a 4th Gen Legacy, but it should be similar to other models, as well. Time to Complete: A couple hours of research and buying parts, and 60 minutes of work time on the power harness and car. Difficulty: Easy, except proper soldering may require some skill. End Result: Incredibly boring video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12KQrVtLNlc]2015 0311 092128 063 - YouTube[/ame] Warning #1: Nearly all dash cams run on +5V. Failure to use a voltage regulator to convert the car's +12V power down to +5V will result in damage to your dash cam! Dash cams use +5V because USB provides 5V power and the camera's interface is USB. And because China = cheap. Warning #2: You must use a fuse to prevent potential damage from electrical short circuits. Many years ago, my old car started on fire because I was too stupid to use a fuse properly. Don't be stupid. Warning #3: Currently, most dash cams come from China or Korea. Be careful choosing a vendor because shipping can take weeks. Spytec on Amazon stocks dash cams in the US, so Amazon Prime 2-day got me my camera fast. Parts to buy: Dashcam. Check out http://www.dashcamtalk.com for reviews and select a popular camera. I went with the A118-C model for $80 from [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SK8B47W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Spytec via Amazon.com.[/ame] Voltage regulator. I bought an [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3P6QQG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]EDO Tech one from Amazon[/ame] for $11. Fuse Tap (ATM). The mini-fuse tap allows you to add a new fused circuit from your fuse box. ATM is the mini size that you'll find under the steering wheel in the dash fusebox. I went with the Bussman ATM. Here [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425760509&sr=8-1&keywords=bussman+fuse+tap]it is on Amazon[/ame] for $8, but you can find these in auto parts stores. Micro-SDHC Card (also called TF card). Dash Cam's don't include these, but this is the mass storage required for video recording. I went with the [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Adapter-MB-MP32DA-AM/dp/B00IVPU786/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425760673&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+evo+32]Samsung Evo 32GB on Amazon[/ame] for $18. Low amperage ATM fuses to add a fuse for your new dash cam. I bought a kit of ATM fuses from a local auto parts store for $5. 2A is good. Do not buy the "low profile ATM" fuses since Subaru isn't using this style. USB Charge-only Cable. $5. Surprisingly, not all USB cables will work properly. Using the improper type will confuse the dash cam because it thinks it is plugged into a PC instead of a raw power source. Only 1 out of 3 USB cables I owned worked, and it's the same cable that didn't work on my AccessPort. I just bought this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1426035355&sr=8-5&keywords=USB+charge+only+cable]"Data block" adapter[/ame] from Amazon for $8, and it should allow any USB cable to work for powering up the dash cam. Tools needed: Philips head screwdriver Flat head screwdriver Zip ties Soldering iron / electrical tape / heat shrink tubing (or some other method of joining wires i.e. butt crimps) Spade or ring terminal (for attaching to chassis ground) Pictures of the goods in their boxes and then opened up: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204126&stc=1&d=1425761576http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204127&stc=1&d=1425761576 DIY Steps: 1) Add a ground terminal to the Regulator harness. Before working inside the car, you can prepare the 5V Regulator wiring harness. Carefully use a scalpel or razor to pull back the outter sheath of the Regulator harness about 6" back from the power/gnd leads. Solder and heat shrink a spade or ring terminal to the black/ground wire. This will eventually hook into chassis ground under a bolt or screw. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204134&stc=1&d=1425761944 2) Attach the Fuse Tap power lead to the Regulator harness. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204135&stc=1&d=1425761944 3) Remove the A-pillar plastic cover by releasing the metal clip. You can see the metal clip if you use your fingers to carefully peel back the top of the A-pillar cover. Shine a light in there and you you'll see it. Stick a flathead screwdriver straight down and push and the A-pillar will pop right out. You'll see wire bundles behind the A-pillar, and this is where the Dash Cam power wires will eventually go. Protip: Once you place the screwdriver into the "pushing slot", you need to push the A-pillar cover tightly against the A-pillar to release it. Use one hand to push down on the screwdriver and the other hand to push the cover against the A-pillar. This will allow it to be released. Don't push down on the screwdriver while pulling the A-pillar cover off or it will get stuck. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204136&stc=1&d=1425762756 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204137&stc=1&d=1425762756 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204140&stc=1&d=1425763524 4) Remove the dash side cover. Simply grab the top rear corner and pull outwards. It comes out pretty easy. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204141&stc=1&d=1425763721 5) Remove reading light console assembly. Remove the plastic lens cover over the reading lights. Just use your fingernails and pull gently by the plastic near the light button. Next, remove the two Philips head screws that attach the entire plastic assembly to the roof of the car. The assembly will now easily pull down. Using your hands again, just pull down near the white plastic pop rivet to create some space between the headliner and the windshield. You'll need this to snake a wire to the Dash Cam, and to help route the Dash Cam power wires. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204142&stc=1&d=1425764124 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204143&stc=1&d=1425764124 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204144&stc=1&d=1425764124 6) Route the Regulator harness above the headliner. Try to find a spot that creates as much cable slack as possible. You can't waste an inch here or the harness won't reach the fuse box. I had good luck stuffing the regulator box into a crevice and running the wire to the windshield and over to the A-pillar. Run the harness down the A-pillar and use zip ties to attach it nicely to the other harnesses. Screw the ground ring terminal into the chassis ground. Any of the metal frame/bracketry you see in that area is chassis ground. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204146&stc=1&d=1425765004 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204147&stc=1&d=1425765004 7) Install the fuses into Fuse Tap and install into Fuse Box. The orientation of the Fuse Tap is critical. If you put it backwards, the fuse will be bypassed and you will be risking an electrical fire. See the picture for how the Bussman ATM Add-a-circuit should be installed. Also, the ground ring terminal has a few places you can mount. My ring terminal was too small to fit the ideal hex head bolt, so I settled for a screw. Good enough. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204156&stc=1&d=1425765883 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204157&stc=1&d=1425765883 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204158&stc=1&d=1425765883 8) Hook up the Dash Cam to the power source (USB female-to-male connector on the Regulator harness). Put everything back together. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204167&stc=1&d=1425766650 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204168&stc=1&d=1425766650 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204169&stc=1&d=1425766650 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=204170&stc=1&d=1425766650

OP - Any updates to share?

I didn't even realize the end/couplers of that hose were removable. Good tip! I just went and looked into the various hoses for the BPV. I have a ton of slack, but the previous owner (mr.hicksta) did the install. There is a line from under the intake manifold that tee's out to the BPV and a Zeitronix boost/vacuum pressure sensor. So I suspect hicksta added new hose segments during the install which prevented any slack issues.

Hmm. There is no way I could have missed such an obvious thing on install. I suspect I may have not tightened the hose clamp enough which caused the rubber to "blowout" a little on one side.

The last time I installed my TMIC I messed up the rubber at the outlet by the BPV. Oops. There was some oil that had sprayed out towards the BPV, too. Maybe this is why I was running rich under boost (10.1-10.3)?

I also used both of these. The Beck/Arnley p/n 1033042 along with this same tool that I bought at NAPA for $17. I was amazed the tool was cheaper at NAPA than at Amazon. This particular CV banding tool works great on both the larger and small diameter CV bands. I was very impressed with how well it worked. Some key points from my recent install: 32mm impact socket and air wrench worked great. I had to buy a $5 32mm socket from Harbor Freight. Instead of removing the control arms or popping the ball joint out, I disconnected the two bolts that attach the strut to the wheel hub. To keep the camber alignment settings, I used a pen to mark the location of the camber nut and the strut. Like a moron, I forgot to also mark the bolt head, so I lost my alignment. The bolt head, strut, and nut all have to maintain their original relative position. Oops. I also initially forgot to disconnect the brake line and the ABS line from the strut, so I'm lucky I didn't rip them. I put the vehicle up on a single jackstand. Obviously, this prevented me from turning the steering wheel to rotate the wheel hub. This made removing the axle from the hub a lot harder since the hub could only down downward and not to the side (since the tie rod was still attached). I really had to awkwardly muscle out the axle from the hub. No transmission fluid leaked out until I was reinstalling the axle. I must have tapped the seal with the shaft during reinstall since a 1/2 spoonful ended up coming out. Once everything went back in, no more fluid appeared to leaking. This is a job that is do-able by one person, but you will need some muscle to insert the axle back into the transmission. This is easier with two people, but not mandatory. It took me 4-5 hours because I was very slow and careful. I could reboot one again in under 2.

^ Demand is what determines price. Very few enthusiasts want a winged trunk. So it's logical that a wingless trunk is more valuable to people here. A wingless trunk may not be worth any extra $ to you, and that's OK. But you can't speak for everybody.

Have: 05 OBP wingless (fair condition, some chips, and rust around drain holes on the bottomside. Want: 05 OBP winged + $50 Location: Syracuse, NY

My 3.0R - Flawless and reliable. My LGT - Just a matter of time before the next issue. Always on edge.

All the issues result in the word "airbag" in the dash gauge area. Resolding the resistors in the overhead console area is a 10 minute job that costs no money so it wouldn't hurt to try it.

Add me to the long list of success stories! I love fixes like this.

I used the Chicco Keyfit 30 in my 4th gen Legacy for both of my kids. I chose it because it seemed like the smallest rear facing infant seat based on a lot of reviews on Amazon. It fits pretty snug behind the seats. I always had it installed behind the passenger seat, and it did crunch my wife forward a little bit, but nothing painful (wife is 5'9). If I had to do it again, I'd use the same exact seat because overall it was very good.

Congrats! I think I remember seeing this car for sale. I live in Syracuse and I see you got it from a Fox dealership up here (Auburn probably). Beautiful color!

I recommend the Spec B's, but I might be biased!