outahere

Here is link to authoritative technical specifications and regulations for halogen bulbs. Everything you want to know about H7, HIR1, etc.

http://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/r037r5e.pdf

They are the same site.

Whois information for candlepower.com

Registrant:

Candlepower Inc.

14626 Southlawn Lane

Rockville, MD 20850-1317

US

 

Domain Name: CANDLEPOWER.COM............................................

...........................................

 

Domain Name: CANDLEPOWERINC.COM

 

...........

Interesting. At one you can do a secure credit card transaction, at the other you cannot.

Well, reporting back with the life I got out of my OSRAM Rallye bulbs.

Installed them in November 2007

The driver's bulb burned out last night

So the bulbs lasted me 30K miles/2 years.

Are your DRLs always on?

Thanks iNVAR

 

 

H7 Osram 65W Ralleye bulbs orders; CandlePower, Inc. has them on sale for $19.99 each............

Be sure to visit http://www.candlepowerinc and not http://www.candlepower. The latter will take you to what appears to be a fake site. When you enter the web store from http://www.candlepower, at the point where credit card info is to be entered, no security icon is displayed, and no "https" is displayed.

I ordered a pair of spare Toshiba 9011 HIR1 bulbs, as the manufacturer has discontinued them.

I wonder if Osram will ever have direct drop-in LED replacement modules to replace halogen bulbs, available to the aftermarket.

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Professionals/Automotive_Lighting/Products/JOULE_LED_Systems/index.html

Here is a recent UK test of thirty H7 bulbs:

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/243109/bulbs_we_test_30.html

I have a copy of the 2005 Legacy/Outback factory service manual.

On page BR-33 it states "Perform the brake fluid replacement in order from the farthest wheel cylinder from master cylinder". This implies RR > LR > RF > LF

But on page BR-34 it states the opposite: "Perform the operation in order from the closest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder". This implies LF > RF > LR > RR.

And on page PM-32 there is yet another version. They show a diagram of the bleed sequence, which indicates a sequence of RF > LR > LF > RR

So even the Subaru tech department is unsure about the correct bleed sequence.

........Plug for the back heater, it operates on the chain relay, meaning if the butt circuit isn't complete, then the back wont work either:...............

There's a seat back heater in the '05 Legacy????? I only feel heat on the seat bottom in my '05 wagon.

........I use true synthetic because.......it also reduces dependence on foreign oil.

I don't see how this is true for M1 0W-40. But there are oils formulated from US grown agricultural products that can be said to reduce dependence on foreign oil.

http://www.renewablelube.com/

Ok, so I have just spent the last few hours combing over all the past threads on oil and I have come to a few conclusions....................

 

2) Group IV PAO synthetic oils are better than group III oils

IMO, only true for extremely cold climates. A PAO based oil will require less pour point depressants.

........I do however still want to be able to shut off the low beams altogether and turn on the fogs when it is foggy and snowy. The fog light mod requires that DRLs be disabled.

In my '05, I can run the fogs with my DRLs, if I find the full power low beams creating too much back scatter in the fog or falling snow.

Scarey message however, "same 500 hour life as the H7 bulb...".......

Lifted from another forum:

Dan Stern put out the info below not long ago; don't remember where, but I grabbed it:

"For reference, here's manufacturer data*for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs.*The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of*the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each*manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not*significantly so. *I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while*the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative*comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type we consider (H4, 9006, whatever).*Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the*bulbs have failed.

H1 (regular normal):

1550 lumens, 650 hours

Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+")

1460 lumens, 1200 hours

Ultra Long Life (or "DayLight")

1430 lumens, 3000 hours

Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower,*Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium):

1700 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva*Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):*

1750 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker):

1780 lumens, 340 hours

Blue coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips*BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania*Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra,*also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc):

1380 lumens, 250 hours

So that's the pattern for how lifespan and light output are related. It's worth noting that the lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences. The filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance. And, the light color is less white and more brown. But lifespan is lengthened. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" (+30, +50, +80, +90) or Osram "Hyper" type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light — the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. — the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80, or Hyper bulb.

On sale for limited time, $20 each at:

http://store.candlepower.com/h7bulbs.html

so.....is there anywhere i can get the osram rallye 65w other than from daniel stern lighting??

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1197

...........Unfortunately in "modern" cars and in Subaru (I already checked with a dealer), the voltage regulator is part of the starter motor / assembly. Subaru quoted me $760 to replace the starter............

Why is the voltage regulator part of the starter, and not the alternator?

^ why don't you swap the injector to a different spot to see if the code follows you ...

I agree.

On the way home I stopped by Advance Auto parts and ordered:

Timing belt $59.51

..........

Will the AA timing belt last 95,000 miles, like the OEM belt? IMO, go with another OEM belt.

Coolant I will figure out, but why would I see fuel? Possibly because of frequent short trips in the winter while the car didn't even get a chance to reach normal operating temps? What else can I do besides running an injector cleaner like the one they do at Valvoline for example, with the IV and all?

Yes, the winter driving will increase fuel in your oil.

You could try running a fuel additive like FP-Plus or BioPlus at every fill up.

My fuel dilution numbers have been steadily decreasing over my last 3 UOAs. My last one (over winter) was 1.03%, on a 100% stock motor. Hopefully, the next one in the fall will be even lower.

........Why 40 instead of 30? Because it seems that per my last UOA the Mobil 1 5W30 still allowed some higher than average wear [had higher readings of iron, amongst others]

I think your fundamental problem is not that a 5W30 is inadequate, but that you have fuel and antifreeze in the oil. Solve the fuel and antifreeze contamination problem, and your wear will go down.

Been a few months now with the Rallye 65s, I'm still extremely satisfied.

 

No flashing from oncoming traffic at all - but note here that my vehicle is slightly lowered, and but it still retains the factory/"book" aim from its standard height, so this may be affecting things somewhat.

 

No problems noted with heat. No problems noted with power consumption............

Mostly the same with me, but I did have to lower my headlights slightly after installing the the Hyper (aka Rallye) 65W bulbs. I was getting flashed occasionally, especially when my fuel tank was full. I followed the aiming instructions at Stern's site, for VOL classified headlamps. I also run these bulbs in a pair of Hella FF50 driving lamps.

.........."If we're gonna start stopping people for headlights that offend oncoming traffic - including us - we'd start with every jacked-up pickup truck and sport-ute on the road."........

Sounds like a fine idea to me!!!!!!!

So it looks like the only way to improve my vision at night is to break the law

Instead of the 65W "competition only" Osram Hyper, you may want to try the new 55W Osram Night Breaker. For the Night Breaker they are claiming 90% more light than a "standard halogen".

........On the personal front, I've had friends of mine who live in our local area who've been pulled-over, and cited, for their FACTORY-equipped HIDs..........

Probably cited for improper aim?