RailKill

The Eibach final rate is higher than 15%.

 

Please read the first page of this thread...it has a lot of information.

 

Get any spring you want and then throw konis at it. There, I've said it. I was biting my lip, but I had to say it.

 

In a few months, someone else will ask a spring/shock question, and I will inevitably say it again...and again...and again.

 

I'm sure a few eyes roll every time I say it, but I can't say it enogh because there is NOTHING else out there for us except the Bilsteins.

 

The RCE springs are progressive, but have a more linear feel. Their progressive rate is roughly half of the H&R springs. I don't know how they compare to the Eibachs.

So these Koni's, you like them?

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They don't list it for the '13 or '14 but I used the same spring as the '10-'12, # 7722.140. I think since Subaru changed the suspension a little for '13+, Eibach won't list it for those years until they test it but mine fit perfectly.

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Okay so I have a 2013 2.5 I limited have already swapped out stock tires and wheels for a 225 45 18 am looking to lower the vehicle any where from 1" to 1.5" to eliminate gap between tire and fender am looking for input on what type of springs people have installed trying to the ride sock not to stiff just a little firmer in the corners. Don't want to bouncy stiff or my wife will kill me. Have looked at swift springs but am told they wont work on the2013 2.5i limited, also have looked at H & R springs. From what I see springs run about 250 to 350 dollars a set

I have also seen coilovers for about 800 to 900 a set JDM DL series are they a better deal or any one know any other brand for about a grand or less or is that just unrealistic...

Thanks

I'm running Eibach Pro Kit springs on stock '14 struts and I'm completely satisfied with the ride. They aren't any more or less stiff than stock springs but tighten up the handling feel. They lowered my car 1" all around. They can be bought for around $200 for the set.

Oh yeah, and they are wife approved!

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I think it is 5.5. It is not adjustable, but there is a bushing that allows some positive caster.

 

Look at the first page of the suspension thread.

After I asked that, I saw Pep's and aerophools alignment sheets and noticed they were both around what you said. It was more a curiosity question than a "I want to change it" question. Thanks

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Does anyone know what our caster is set at? I noticed that it was grayed out on the alignment sheet so I'm assuming its not adjustable.

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Initial feedback???

I'm finally satisfied.

The car rides exactly how I want it to. I wasn't able to push it much between the alignment shop and work but from what I felt, its perfect in turns and drives straight.

The ass end feels tighter and doesn't make as much noise when hitting bumps, but that could all be in my head since I know that the LCA's are there.

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What a difference

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/26/8enaqe5u.jpg

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Looking great Chris! Hmm I'm thinking of getting these soon, may need some help putting them on =)

Thanks Shri! I don't know anyone close to you that could help though

Sorry, I forgot to reply to your PM

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Thanks Joe. I'm hoping they work as good as they look

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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/25/uvu7ahy7.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/25/e8e8a3us.jpg

So, they fit perfect, with one exception. The ISC was a little wider than the OEM LCA where it attached to the knuckle. I remedied that by putting a washer on each side of the bushing. It just so happened that I had washers floating around that worked perfectly so I can't give any dimensions since there was no packaging.

They're very solid and well built compared to the OEM's. The first side took me about an hour and once I realized the sequence to go in, the second side took about 30 min. I haven't driven it yet so I can't give first impressions but my first drive will be straight to the alignment shop.

I'll report back later on.

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What's the PN on those?

I don't see a part number but this is from ISC's website

http://iscsuspension-na.com/store/#!/~/product/id=28352614

Just an FYI, I bought these with the understanding that I've never seen them on a 5th gen Legacy and I never got confirmation from the manufacturer that they will fit our cars, BUT, I know of multiple people using adjustable LCA's from 08+ WRX/STI's.

I guess I'll be the guinea pig with these.

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Oh...then it must be within spec!

I saw that coming a mile away!

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:lol: The alignment guy blamed the Bilsteins for not getting the camber the same on both rears.....this when there is no rear camber adjustment on our cars from the factory anyway.

The problem with that is he's a Certified Subaru tech

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I just got home and my LCA's were waiting for me on my doorstep. I'm going to get it aligned tomorrow. I decided I'm going to try out -1.4 front -1.0 rear. We shall see.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/25/huba5anu.jpg

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Thanks for the input StoplightAssassin

So, maybe follow what Perscitus suggested and do something like a -1.4 front and -1.0 rear? I don't really push my car too hard. I just drive a lot and just want to have a nice handling, smooth ride.

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Getting an alignment tomorrow at the dealer... Can I just request these values? Do I get it aligned and see what the values come out to be?... Any input would be appreciated. Never really thought of what went into alignment, I always thought you went with what you got.

 

 

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I always thought the same thing too. I would just bring it in, let them do their thing, get a printout and make sure all of the boxes were green, and go on my merry way.

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4799054&postcount=9708

 

Whiteline front lower control arm rear bushing which doubles as caster adjustment. OEM was stuck at 5.5 degrees, I believe.

 

Cusco adjustable LCA and GT-Spec adjustable toe arm for Rear wheels. Camber would have certainly been off without the LCA, and the toe arm was maxed out.

 

With these alignment specs, please note that I have a 26mm FSB and the whiteline 22mm RSB set at the stiffer setting and the 3.6R has a 45/55 F/R power bias vs LGT and 2.5i which have a 50/50 bias.

How do you like having more negative camber in the front?

I was looking at maybe -1.0 front and -1.2 to -1.5 for the rears, 0 toe all around. Would this be a good all around setting?

I'm also running a 22mm RSB set on the middle setting and stock 26mm FSB. I'm hoping I'll be OK with getting 0 toe with the adjustable LCA dialed in to -1.2 ish

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So, as a few of you know, my alignment, specifically my rear camber, got whacked out when I installed my Eibach Pro Kit springs. I ordered a set of ISC Suspension V2 adjustable rear lower control arms to remedy the excessive camber. I'll be going for another alignment on Friday after these are installed.

So, what are your alignment specs? What would you suggest for a DD?

It looks like I'm not alone with this rear camber issue.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3996430&postcount=14

This post by Shribob is his reading after installing Eibach ProKit springs as well.

Dumb question.....Would the Whiteline KCA414 front camber bolts make any more adjustment on front camber than the OEM cam bolts?

I saw a pearl orange LCA on eBay and thought of you. Lol

I'm more concerned with durability since they spread a lot of salt over the winter. My impatient ass ended up ordering an ISC Suspension V2 LCA. Its all aluminum and got a lot of good reviews from the STI/WRX crowd.

Did you need extra toe adjustment because of the coilovers?

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I'm contemplating getting some rear LCA's to solve my rear camber issue.

I'm looking at two different options....and would like some opinions....

1. First is a Whiteline KTA139. They're extremely hard to find here in the states and I haven't seen any confirmation that they fit the 5th gen but they are listed for the BRZ/FRS and 08+ STI so I think they will work. They are all aluminum and run just under $500. Oh yeah, they look pretty sweet too!

Or.....Do I go the more inexpensive route.......

2. J2 Engineering LCA. I saw that WRXWHIT installed one and was pretty happy with it all around. It goes for $300 and is made of a stainless steel alloy.

This should be an obvious choice but I feel spending $500 to fix a possible camber issue is a little nuts right now. I won't decide until I get the alignment rechecked.

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Let me try this one more time.....

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/19/megedyve.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/19/5ezutaqy.jpg

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My $0.02. Find a reputable shop used by folks who track their cars.

 

A long time back, I had issues with my alignment/steering in a FWD car. I took it to wheel works, goodyear, etc. My boss recommended a shop he used exclusively. They got it fixed at 150% of what others charged. But, they got it fixed.

The place I had it done is a place like that. The mainly work on imports, muscle cars and race cars. They have top of the line equipment and are very reputable. It is possible that its there equipment is faulty and I know you guys say you can't see much of a difference in the pictures but when I look at it in person, I can see something isn't right.

My next step will be to go back to stock and see where the car sits and take it from there.

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