SchwarzeEwigkt

I’m hoping it’s just a staggered recall that’ll also include automatics later. The parking brake needs to work in case of a transmission parking pawl failure. Some state safety inspections — like mine — require a working parking brake to pass. If they just recalled the manuals and the failure part is the same, it’s pretty likely they’d lose any lawsuits against them for damages caused by the parking brake failing to engage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Running fuel with a higher AKI definitely won’t hurt your engine. There’s no reason to be uncomfortable about it besides that you’d spend more money. If your engine was in perfect condition, a more stable fuel — which is actually what AKI represents; it’s relative resistance to detonation — wouldn’t make a lick of difference. Well, you might get slightly better mileage due to the your wallet saving you some weight! If you’ve got things going on that would make the engine more prone to knocking, say carbon buildup or something, a more stable fuel might result in fewer knock events and thus ignition timing getting retarded less often. You might get more energy for a given amount of fuel. Really, you’d probably be getting closer to the energy you probably should get from the lower stability fuel you should be able to use. It might be a fun experiment to run a few tanks of 93 just to see what happens. Frankly, though, if you’re having to run premium fuel to keep knock under control and you’re not running a ton of boost or some crazy high compression setup, you’ve got problems you really should consider fixing before they get worse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just read the actual settlement agreement published by the law firm that did this. They’ve got a very specific table that’s much more useful than what’s on the attached letter. All the turbo and H6 models are specifically excluded, along with the BRZ. BRZ owners get defective valve springs instead. [emoji2357] Too bad. While my engine isn’t using an unreasonable amount of oil, it might have been nice to get a fresh short block. http://www.oilconsumption.settlementclass.com/files/Settlement%20Agreement.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the ‘13 3.6’s covered by this? The letter doesn’t seem to call the FB 2.5’s out specifically. I bought it from my mother-in-law, so I’m familiar with the car’s service history for the last four years or so. It’s gotten regular oil changes at the dealer. The low oil light has come on right about when she’s due for an oil change — about 5000mi — a couple times in the last couple years and I’ve put not quite a quart in to fill it back up to the top each time. Didn’t seem like excessive consumption, especially after having EJ engined Subarus that loved to leak. I always assumed that the dealer wasn’t quite filling it all the way, especially since they had a promotion where you’d get every other oil change for free from them for the life of the car. I did change the oil and filter about 1500mi ago and it was right at the full mark. I should probably go peek at it before I head off to work tomorrow morning. I’m at 91k, so I would need to get it checked sooner rather than later so it doesn’t age out.

That sounds like classic Subaru Heat Shield Rattle[emoji769] to me. Every Subaru I’ve ever owned or helped keep alive developed a rattle once it was 8-10yrs old. Get underneath and tap on the exhaust with something nonmetallic. The rattle will likely reveal itself almost immediately. For what it’s worth, that sounds exactly like when the heat shields they put on the header pipes that were on my EJ25D and EJ253, and on my friend’s EJ22 came loose. I tied them up with stainless steel wire and they didn’t bother me again until I junked the cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I received a new idler pulley, serpentine belt, and tensioner to be replaced this weekend along with another drain and refill of transmission fluid. Not exciting, but necessary! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got my trunk light assembly in the mail yesterday. As expected, it took all of two minutes to put in. My trunk is lit again! FYI, it did come with a bulb installed already. Thanks for the pictures. It really helped me figure out where it’s supposed to go without having to screw around for too long.

If it doesn’t smell then it’s probably not gear oil. Gear oil has a lot of sulphur in it. It stinks to high heaven. It sure looks like it and is in the right place, though. I’d say you should clean the whole area thoroughly and see if you can figure out where it’s coming from after that.

The behavior I described didn’t change when I changed the fluid besides the shifts themselves becoming smoother and my no longer getting shocks on downshifts coming to a stop. I plan to change the fluid again since I only got about 4.5L out and have around 7L left still. Couldn’t hurt, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Legacy doesn’t have any Sport settings. Just P, R, N, D, and M with flappy-paddles on the wheel. It’s entirely possible what I’m experiencing is normal. It doesn’t have any shift shock, slip or anything. Frankly, if I didn’t look at the tachometer, I may not think anything odd was going on. It might be that this transmission just tries really hard to do something other than what I think it’s doing. As for the fluid color, this 5EAT definitely uses red fluid. At least the stock Subaru ATF HP or Idemitsu ATF Type HP is red. The older ones used Dexron III spec fluid too, which was red too. Maybe you’re thinking of the gear oil in the front differential? That’s definitely a dark amber and stinks to high heaven owing to the sulphur content. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The replacement part I ordered today seems to indicate that it comes with a bulb. If it doesn’t, I might put an LED in so it’s brighter. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used to have an Audi that would randomly lose its mind in regards to exterior temperature. It’d report -58°F when it was about 60° out and would cause the climate control system to misbehave because it thought it was so cold out. I know the Legacy doesn’t use the external temperature sensor for anything engine related; it’s got an IAT sensor and a coolant temperature sensor for that. Your engine couldn’t care less about that sensor. If you’ve got automatic climate control, I suspect the sensor going nuts would cause it to behave oddly owing to it thinking the external air supply was at a different temp than it actually is. That said, most thermistors will fail open when they crap out, so your reading would be way off on one end of the scale rather than just kind of wrong. I’m inclined to think that either your wiring is damaged or your connector is corroded. Couldn’t hurt to pull the thing out and check it and clean the connector with some electronic connector cleaner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, that explains it! It is missing! If I get another one and hook it back up, I should be good to go. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could I convince you to take a picture of it? The only white box I have is large (probably 4”x4”x5”) that looks like it’s probably the center seatbelt mechanism. Here’s the right side: There is a white connector dangling there, but I was under the impression it was the wiring for the lamp on the deck lid wing, which I don’t have. Here’s the left: I’m not seeing anyplace where it could have gone to, nor any broken wires on the harness or anything. It’s like it was never there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had figured that. I’ll bet the PO whacked it with something and knocked it up inside the trunk ceiling panel where I’ll have to fish it back out. I had to reattach one of the seat release cables that was just flopping around back to the trunk ceiling. She always kept a hilarious amount of crap in the trunk and must have bashed everything all to hell shoving things in there. Anybody have a picture of where the light’s supposed to be so I know where to start looking for it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It runs fine and gets reasonable (for it) gas mileage, but it couldn’t hurt. It’s likely never been cleaned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a ‘13 3.6R Limited. Doesn’t have the nav, sunroof, or EyeSight. Sounds like I should get in there and take a picture...

I’ve had my 3.6R for about a month now and am becoming more acquainted with it. I noticed that the transmission doing some things I might characterize as a bit odd. For instance, it was a little rough downshifting as you slowed down, especially into first as you almost stopped. Also, I noticed that when you’re accelerating on light throttle, it sometimes will shift from second to third and then seem like it thought better of it and shift back down to second. I seem to notice that a bit more when I’m climbing the hill turning right from leaving work or when I’m turning onto the highway I used by my house. The highway but I can characterize most easily. It’s a four lane divided rural highway with a light. I stop at the light to turn left. When the light turns, I’ll accelerate across the first two lanes to maybe 20mph with fairly light throttle. As I begin to turn, I’ll reduce throttle a little. Usually as I’m completing the turn, it’ll have shifted into third. I’ll toe in a little more throttle — not much since you don’t need much with the big motor! — as it’s shifting and the tach will roll up quite a bit more than if it had stayed in third. There’s no lurch or anything; it does it pretty smoothly. Frankly, I might not think anything of it if I wasn’t actively paying attention to it. It doesn’t feel like it had locked the torque converter in 2nd and then unlocked it when I added the throttle. Plus, I think it shifts three times as I get to cruising speed. I’m not sure. I should probably shoot a video and post it here. I can say that it behaves exactly as I’d expect it if I put it in manual mode and use the flappy paddles. I’m inclined to think that mechanically it’s okay. Figuring it could use new fluid owing to the fact that the PO wasn’t sure if it had been changed, I sucked about 4.5L of ATF out through the dipstick tube using a vacuum pump thing I recently picked up (you gotta get you one of these things!). The fluid was brownish, but didn’t have metal particles or smell burnt. Put the same amount of fresh Idemitsu Type HP in. The rough downshifts are gone now and it seems altogether happier. Though, it’s still doing the weird shifting thing. Maybe this is normal behavior? I found a thread someplace (maybe here?) that mentioned something like that. I can’t find it again, though the guy said he changed the fluid and took it to Subaru to have them clear the TCU and do a learning procedure on it. Says it fixed it right up. What do you guys think? I’ve gotta take it in in a couple weeks to have an airbag recall done, so I though I might see if they could do the TCU reset and adaptation on it while they had it. Don’t see any reason to spend the money on the hour of labor they’d probably charge me for it if nobody thinks it’d help. I do plan to suck out more fluid and replace it again when I get a free hour owing to the fact that I bought a case of ATF and might as well get as much fresh stuff in there as I can.

Hey! Long time no see, everybody! It’s been years since I’ve been in here. I haven’t had a Legacy in the family to keep alive until recently. About a month ago, my mother-in-law decided she wanted to get a smaller car that got better gas mileage, so she sold me her ‘13 Legacy 3.6R. Besides the fact that changing the headlights on that car absolutely sucks and that the big motor burns gas like a refinery fire, I love it! I’ve had a fondness for it since she got it. I’m thrilled to have made it mine. Anyway, I noticed that there was no trunk light when I was in there the other day. I figured it was just burnt out or something. I went looking for the light so I could replace it. I cannot find it. The owner’s manual seems to indicate that it should be more or less in the center of the roof of the trunk. It’s just not there. I even climbed into the trunk — so I could figure out which wiring harness I have back there for planning out installing a backup camera — and looked for it. Does the Legacy not come with a trunk light? I mean, I know that Subaru sucks at lighting their cargo areas, but not lighting it at all? Seems kind of weird. What do you guys think? I’ll happily climb back in there and take pictures if need be. It’s actually pretty comfortable back there.