SchwarzeEwigkt

That’s a much nicer looking mirror than the stock one! Sadly, this won’t be something I’d be willing to do; can’t bear to lose my Homelink buttons. I *hate* having a garage door opener floating around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even though it’ll likely be a great car, a Benz will be a difficult car to own if you’re not used to regularly throwing money at it for maintenance. European cars are much more sensitive to maintenance than Japanese cars are and much of the maintenance is pricy comparatively, even if you do it yourself. Maintenance usually happens more often, and parts are about 20% more expensive. For instance, a friend of mine bought a ‘13 C350 4Matic Sport. It wasn’t clear that all the maintenance had been done, so had asked Mercedes how much that wanted to change the transmission fluid and filter, flush the brake fluid, and do an alignment. They asked $1700 for that. He ended up getting a local Euro specialist to do it for about $800. If it were my car, I would have considered doing most of it myself, but know full well that changing the transmission fluid and filter involves replacing the transmission pan and would still have set me back probably $500 in parts and supplies. Also, most shops around here (a not large but not small city in Central NY) basically hung up on my friend as soon as he asked about getting his car aligned. Apparently, Mercedes has a pretty involved procedure for alignment. This is all on what’s considered a very reliable car in the grand scheme of modern German sport sedans. It’d all be far worse if you bought something more complicated like a E or S with air ride suspension or a V12. Or, heaven forbid, you properly lost your mind and ended up with something AMG. I’m not saying you shouldn’t buy a Benz, particularly if it’s a good deal. I’m saying you should make sure you really dig into what it’s like to own. This is coming from a guy who made a habit out of buying German iron and really should regret it. I don’t, but that doesn’t mean I’m not crazy. It also doesn’t mean my remaining German isn’t sitting busted in my garage *this exact instant* either... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s around a.bout a quart low, but it’s apparently different values for when the engine is running or when it’s stopped. The exact values are in the manual. I seem to recall that mine (3.6) comes on when it’s about a quart low while the engine is running, but 1.6 when it’s off. 2.5’s are probably similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My last EJ didn’t burn much, but it did leak a ton out the oil cooler seal. :-p Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s good news! You’ll have to let us know what you end up with, particularly if it’s something extra interesting! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My mom’s Outback did this or something similar when she had an evap system code. The car *lost its freaking mind.* Turns out she had left the gas cap off. Cleared the codes with a code reader after putting the cap back on and it was fine after that. You wouldn’t think an evap code would disable half the car, but apparently it does... Maybe that’s all it is? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’re probably right. Shitty paint: it’s what makes a Subaru a Subaru! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you ever degrease the engine and then inspect it after a bit to see where it’s actually leaking from? Also, you may want to try changing brands of oil. I used to run Mobil 1 in my EJ25D and the thing seeped oil from everywhere. I switched to Castrol and it stopped. Also, Lubrimoly — I’ve been using that for years in my German cars — recently started adding a UV dye to some of their oils. If you shine a UV flashlight on it, it glows green. It’s not significantly more expensive than any other good synthetic oils. Might help you more easily trace the leaks. Once you really know where it’s leaking from, you’ll know what you really have to do to take care of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder what causes it and why it seems to happen on only one side or the other. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven’t done anything yet. My wife was planning to get it for me for a birthday gift, but a bunch of crap broke around the house all at once, so we’ve put it off for now. I’m still planning to document my install, though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I noticed that mine’s rusting there too! Gotta figure out how to take it off so it doesn’t rot off. Edit: It doesn’t appear to be in the manual. Delightful. Edit edit: Wait, I found it! It’s in “Rear Door Glass.” There’s a screw on top under the weatherstrip and two bolts that hold it to the inner door frame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay then. I’ll make sure to take pictures and notes as I go and then write up a thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to be getting a new stereo pretty soon, it turns out. Is there interest in me documenting this process, like notes and pictures? If people feel like it’ll actually get used, I’ll write something up and post it someplace. I’m planning to get one along with the Maestro box, hooking up the ODBII integration, installing a new USB port for CarPlay, and seeing about installing the new mic in the factory location. What do you think? Do you guys particularly care? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve had a set of Rhino Ramps I bought probably 15 years ago. Uses them hundreds of times. So far so good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t have any trouble finding DIY videos on YouTube for the 3.6R when I had to replace my pulleys. I did watch several different ones and combined what I saw, but there definitely were more than one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If that’s all that was wrong with the car, then having an issue that was fairly minor that was fixed before you got it doesn’t make buying it a mistake. All cars have their quirks and their issues, Subarus included. What this sounds like to me is that you aren’t sure you bought the right car for you and are looking for reasons to give it back, consciously or otherwise. This Legacy you bought: was it a good price and does it fit what you need and want in a car? If so, then don’t worry about it. If not, then you might want to unwind your transaction (if you can do it without suffering too many consequences) and go for something else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What year is it? If you end up resetting the transmission memory and relearning it after you replace the transmission fluid, do me a solid and let me know what you did and how it went. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah...seems like the things certain in like are death, taxes, Subarus using or leaking oil, and Subaru’s having crappy paint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow. Duh. Not sure how I managed to read right past that. Maybe worth asking the arm of Subaru in that country about some kind of goodwill repair given the fact that they covered all of them here. You don’t do a warranty extension like that on an expensive component like that out of the goodness of your heart; you do it because there was a problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How many miles on it? Sounds like a candidate for that 10yr/100k warranty they put on the CVT’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s what they tell me, but it’s pretty hard to justify throwing $500 at Ed and $200 at a cable when the thing works, just not as well as it ought to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had H&R springs on my old Audi. They were stiff! I’m not sure which ones. Probably “sports.” They were black and lowered the car about 1.5” from stock. Didn’t rattle my teeth out, but they didn’t do my lower back any favors. As long as you go in with eyes open and ibuprofen handy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got the same year and model! Only have two complaints, really: the transmission is stupid and the gas mileage is less than great. Thing is, the transmission works fine. It’s just different than what I expected and am used to and, frankly, could be programmed a lot better. The mileage I can’t actually properly complain because I knew going in and there’s a price to be paid for such a big engine. An engine which is, by the way, quite the peach otherwise. It’ll definitely get out of its own way if you ask it to. In the 10k I’ve had mine, I changed the transmission fluid and the oil, and had to replace the bearings in the serpentine belt idler and tensioner pulleys. So, nothing odd for a car with just shy of 100k on it. It’s a nice car. I think you’ll like it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pentosin says CHF fluids aren’t compatible with ATF type fluids. How will you purge the whole system of the old stuff before you put it in when you try that? Who knows what the interaction might be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don’t measure the current across the headlight connector without the headlight in the circuit. You’ll blow either the fuse in your ammeter or the headlight fuse. As for measuring the *voltage* at that terminal, that should be 12V in either switch state, DRL’s or high beams. If you find that the voltage across the high beam filament supply to the ground isn’t 12V, you either don’t have a supply to the hot terminal or the ground terminal isn’t connected. You can check the voltage between the supply terminal and some other thing at ground (negative battery terminal, an engine bracket or something like that). If that’s 12V, your ground wiring is bad. If it’s still 0 or 0-ish, you’ve got an issue in your supply, either wiring, a relay, or a switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk