cypher0117

I only had 58k miles on my factory struts when I put on the Eibach kit. Now that I have 63k miles on my car and I just replaced all my struts with Koni's (great option) my rears were making bubbling noises and front were starting to make the same noise. I probably could've lasted a few months more before the struts were completely useless. 88k miles is a no brainer...replace them or be sorry you didn't

I just finished my Koni install with some doner struts from a fellow forum member. I had put Eibach springs on back in February of this year and have been only moderately happy with them since. They were installed on stock struts. Yes body roll in corners was reduced and pitching/diving was reduced a lot but the car never felt...composed.

 

That all changed when I took everything back apart and installed the Koni's. I did 1 full turn from soft in the front and back. All I can say is wow. I'm sad I had to do all this work twice. I should have done it all the first time. Ride height didn't change and was exactly how it sat with the stock struts. It corners much better now. Everything is a bit stiffer than with the stock struts, but there is no more oscillations after hitting bigger bumps. There isn't any more crashing or banging from the front end when I hit big bumps. Overall everything just feels better. The ride is just a bit stiffer than before but much less violent.

 

A+ to FredBeans for this walk-through. It helped out a lot.

Fred Beans told me they are not the same, but wouldn't really say more. I did get Eibach though as I found them for less. I haven't installed them yet though.

 

The difference must be what N.sane said...progressive vs linear

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Eibach-Pro-Kit-Lowering-Springs-Subaru-Legacy-GT-2005-2009

 

if you want actual Eibach springs. Otherwise like others have said, I'm fairly certain the Epic Engineering springs are exactly the same as Eibach springs aside from color. You could double check with FredBeansParts

I'm lurking around the Milwaukee area

 

I think I've seen you around on N Lake dr early last summer. either that or some other red lgt

thanks for the info m sprank. Your right, suspension is the part of a car I know least about and I didn't think the bump stop compressed that small...still learning. I'll follow the instructions from the first couple of posts and keep the bump stops how they are.

I found this thread that talks about extending the bump travel of the koni struts and was wondering if anyone on here had done this:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602326

 

the parts are found here:

http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=458

 

and are only $45...might be a worthwhile purchase

If I do cut the oem bumpstops, I was thinking no more than .5" and on the big end to keep as much progressiveness as possible. Or should I cut the smaller end? How much can be removed before running into the troubles with the koni strut bottoming out?

has anyone found the need to cut the oem bumpstops or buy shorter ones with this strut/spring combo?

Has Cobb started making sways again?

 

I've been wondering the same thing as I'm looking to get some sways put on my car.

 

I did find this:

http://shop.group5motorsport.com/cobb_tuning/cobb_tuning_tubular_antisway_bars/924240/i-112432.aspx

 

Although I don't know if that kit comes with the reinforcement brakets for the rear.

 

For those that have cobb (or any other) F&R sway bars on their car, how is the handling in the snow?

Anyone know of a threaded female 3.5mm jack, plan on doing something similar to cypher0117 but was hoping to find a threaded female to have it be more secure.

 

Mine seems secure enough, I drilled the hole the same size as the outside diamater of the plug and then shoved it in there. I had to apply force as it was a tight fit. Then I poured about a half a stick on hot glue on it. I too was looking for something that would be more secure but I couldn't find anything that I didn't need to solder. I haven't had any troubles yet since I installed it and I have used the plug many times (unplugging and pluggin in).

 

I debated on useing this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103451

 

One question to everyone about the finishing work - the switch looks pretty straightforward to mount onto the arm rest, but it seems like everyone is going with the "headphone wire just hanging out wherever there's a hole" plan for the audio. Does anyone have more "clean" install advice? I have one end of a 1/8" headphone jack and I'd like to have it flush against some plastic without falling through. If anyone has experience in these kinds of mods, I'd love the advice.

 

Thanks.

 

Take a look at my install. page 21 5th post down in this thread. Let me know if you have questions

just one very dumb question, how can we connet the MP3 to the head unit? I can't find any actual pic in the manual and don't know where to put the audio connector.

 

This is essentially what I did:

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/img_8347.jpg

This is a picture very similar to the manual. I hot glued the audio cable just to make sure it wouldn't vibrate out.

 

The other end of that audio cable was routed to the center console storage area:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/img_8351.jpg

 

Just for completeness I mounted the switch in the center storage area as well:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/img_8352.jpg

 

Also picked up a dock connector to audio and usb cable to both listen to and charge my ipod:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/img_8353.jpg

 

The cable was just to make it look nicer while driving:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/img_8355.jpg

Ordered one of these boards 8 days ago, got it 2 days ago, and finally installed it today. Everything went really smoothly as the instructions were really clear. Everything works great.

 

Thanks RedFloyd