cypher0117

My wife's 09 is super smooth and it uses 40 degrees of cam advance. According to the specs I found for my 05 (here), that would mean 26 degrees of overlap at .050 lift, which seems like an unreasonably large amount. However, 10-15 degrees of advance would leave -4 to +1 degree of overlap at .050, which is totally reasonable.

 

For comparison, my car (with BC272s and dual AVCS) is running -4 of overlap (maybe "4 degrees of separation" would be a better way to put it) and it's pretty smooth. Not as smooth as my wife's 09, but better than my 05 when it was stock.

 

Can you elaborate a bit on this.. I'm afraid my lack of understanding how AVCS really works is getting the better of me. I'm not sure what you mean by .050 and .006 lift. That's inches or? I'm not sure if you are using the 07-09 timing chart that was posted by covertrussian or if you have a timing chart specific for 05-06.

^ I had the same thing happen to me on my eibach (same design spec as epic) and I had to find something used. I ended up with sti pinks. They are okay. Not quite at comfy as the eibach/epic springs.

 

Your best best is to find something used, unless the aftermarket for the older lgts has picked up, which I think is unlikley

^ I had the same thing happen to me on my eibach (same design spec as epic) and I had to find something used. I ended up with sti pinks. They are okay. Not quite at comfy as the eibach/epic springs.

 

Your best best is to find something used, unless the aftermarket for the older lgts has picked up, which I think is unlikley

if you can find them I'd get sti-pink springs.

 

My Eibach springs actually fractured and broke after ~4 years of use. I found sti-pinks for a reasonable price used, and I can honestly say I like the feel of those better than the eibachs. Both springs were paired with konis

I got around to switching my vacuum line from the #4 cylinder to the bpv line. While I still have a slight stumble, something interesting has happened. My A/F gauge stopped throwing error codes and displays a number that is stable enough to read the last digit. Based on that, my fuel supply is at least more stable.

I just did this over the last weekend and am happy to report things are operating well.

 

Side note: E85 fixed pretty much all of my stumble but my LV fuel trims still bounce around. I did this to monitor the fuel trims and see if they will stabilize.

Looks like I'm one of the first to have the 3 gauge pod installed. Here is the breakdown:

 

It was a lot easier to install the pod than I thought it was going to be. The detachable mount points were more stable that I originally thought. I had 3 gauges to put in and all three of them were slightly bigger than the printed hole. I needed to sand out the opening a little bit to get the gauges to seat all the way in. I measured the diameter after sanding and it was 52.4ish mm. This might be beneficial for future prints, however I do know that the walls and clearances are tight. I have 3 guages (2 prosports and 1 innovative). The innovative fit better and required less sanding than the prosports. After measuring some things out I don't know that 2 innovative gauges would fit side by side, as their bezels are wider than the prosports. The prosport gauge bezels are (as far as I can tell) the same diameter as the outer diameter of the gauge holes. All in all this piece looks really nice for a printed part

That pod looks good. Is there any physical room to rotate the gauges towards the driver a bit. Kinda like that one 3d printed pod from a long time ago?

Set your Konis at 1 F&R and then up those settings only if you find that the H&R are overdriving your struts/shocks. You'll know this if you're getting a lot of hop from the suspension. But suspect that 1-2 max should be great for daily driving.

 

What kind of hop are you talking about? I get some hop when I really dig into a corner during autocross. I have my konis set to 1.5 from full soft and don't drive aggressive enough to really test out if I should soften them or tighten them up for my eibach springs.

 

suspension is dialed in as:

-1.5 camber front

-1.0 camber rear

0 toe F&R

front castor is within .05 of each other I think

How come only private sales or eBay? They don't make the kit for 05-09 legacy? EE is Epic Engineering right? Are those most like the pro kit?

 

From what I've read, the EE (Epic Engineering) springs are rebranded Eibach pro kit springs with very minor tweaks.

Does anybody have the part numbers for the eibach pro kit for the 05-09 lgt. All I can find online is 2010-2012 lgt's and various wrx years. Thanks

 

part # EIB1 7716.140

 

Though I believe your only options are the private for sale listings, ebay, or getting EE springs.

 

 

I have a set of Cobb springs I am gonna slap on my 09, but I have 17x7 inch wheels with a offset of +38. Am I gonna rub with that wheel size?

Thanks

 

An offset of +38 will give you more room than stock wheels as I believe stock is +54

I've had my eibach+koni setup for ~2.5 years now and never once heard a squeak. The spring/strut setup has about 45k miles on them and the only noise I've heard is a clunk from the fronts ever so often - and that is likely due to my 94k mile tophats

I have the whole whiteline kit:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-253/Whiteline-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail

 

A bit pricey, but it allowed me to even out the alignment on the rear of my car. This wasn't really noticeable on the street but during autocross the car feels way more uniform in left and right turns than it did before. The whole rear end stiffened up a bit with the poly bushings which felt nice (to me). I also had a bent control arm and frozen toe adjustment bolts which made me replace everything with aftermarket.

 

In short, I'd say they are worth it for the track but probably not for the street. If only driven on the street you could get the whiteline rear camber bushings that will let you even out each side as long as your toe bolts are still moving.

^^ I'm running koni/eibach and have my alignments done with the following:

 

summer:

-1.2 deg camber front

-1.0 deg camber rear

0.0 toe all wheels

 

winter:

-1.0 camber all wheels

0.0 toe all wheels

 

I have adjustable lower links in the rear that allow me to dial in whatever I want alignment wise.

Hole is larger than stock. Designed for aftermarket turbos. If using a OEM turbo or a ball bearing turbo need a different feed bolt. OEM bolt works with OEm turbos. For ball bearing, contact manufacturer for specs.

 

 

So you would recommend using the oem turbo banjo bolt with your oil line for the oem turbo?

I run the eibach pro kit (1" front and .8" rear)

 

They are getting harder and harder to find as I don't think they are in production anymore.

 

found some here:

http://lsdmotorsports.com/prod/804436002422.html

I'll third that. My car was fine for a few months on stock struts and lowering springs. Then it got bouncy. Completely gone now that I have konis.

 

If you read a lot throughout this forum, the general consensus is that the lgt is underdamped stock, so putting firmer springs on it just makes things worse until the shocks are completely useless.

does anyone have any experience with koni struts and eibach springs?

 

I'm also running these:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3587096&postcount=751

Every once in a while I'll hear my rears 'groan'. I wouldn't call it a squeak as there is no high frequencies that I can hear.

 

When I do hear it though, my stereo has to be off, open windows, quiet out, low speed (to keep road noise from hiding it) and I have to hit a fairly good sized bump (speed bump sized). Even then they don't always make the 'groaning' noise.

I've heard swift springs are really nice. I don't know from any personal experience though.

 

I have eibach springs and koni inserts. They get stiff over large bumps, but I don't even notice the small ones. The drop is slight but looks great in my opinion.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/Cypher0117/lgt/IMG_0374a.jpg

haven't feathered my clutch. I have noticed though that if my right foot lags behind the left foot a bit (clutch starts to grab before I give it gas), the car will shutter once or twice and then just grab and go. The shuddering, in this instance is probably due to the inherent design of the clutch not being full face. Anything more than slight shudder, I don't know what would cause it.

Well, my car said it was 81 when I left work today. The clutch felt a little stickier/grabbier, but still was still easy enough to engage smoothly. No abnormal sounds/vibrations/shuddering.

 

I also cleaned my flywheel when I installed everything. irregardless, I don't think the oils would still be there after 50 miles.

 

Was your tob making noise? did you have the mechanic inspect the snout? maybe your snout was damaged and the new tob isn't sliding well on it. I would assume that things were installed properly, and that would be the only thing I could think of that would cause engagement problems.

 

That or maybe their is air in your clutch line. bleeding your clutch is simple enough. Doing that won't hurt anything but I don't think it will resolve your problem.

hmm. It's going to be 80s here tomorrow and wednesday (assuming those weather guys are right), I'll have to see what my clutch does in the warm.

 

When I had my lwfw in the car it definitely chattered, but I never heard anything that sounded like pots and pans banging around.

 

Have you taken it back to the shop and complained about it? They should be liable for their workmanship

It's been 50's and 60's here as of late in Iowa.

 

I'm no clutch expert by any means, but it sounds like something might not be properly torqued down. Or maybe the clutch disk was put in backwards. Did you or a shop do the work?

I've only had my fx300 in for ~60 miles but the only sounds I hear from it are a very very faint decel chatter in the 3k to 2k rpm range. Faint enough that all windows need to be closed and the radio needs to be off to hear it, otherwise the chatter is drowned out. Engagement seems very smooth. I can drive this setup (fx300 oem smfw) smoother than the stock dmfw setup and the lwfw setup I had in my car briefly.