broknindarkagain

You're not laying low if you're posting your location! hahaha

I'll be in PHX in a few days

Custom Door Cards

Originally by Lookatmyrust. Post can be found here

Ok in this DIY you will be changing the leather/suede in the door inlays that Subaru kindly made so easy and simple to do.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198831_10150143368689877_712759876_6729165_3128355%20_n.jpg

Tools Needed:

#2 philip screw driver.....magnetic if possible

Flat head screw driver

Hot glue

hot glue gun

scissors

and your choice of fabric or vinyl*

***keep the fabric under 2mm think to make it easier on yourself, and for vinyl, things like 3M carbon Fiber Film would be perfect but very spendy, you would

need 48x36inches i believe for vinyl because you dont need the extra to glue behind.

48x48 of fabric

on to start you need to take of all the door cards/panels.

this is done by using your flat head to pop of the little grey circle thing covering the screw, its located within the area you grab to unlock the door/open. the other screw in behind another cover toward the center of the whole door panel, on the area you pull to shut the door.

CARE removing the screws as the lower one tends to want to fall inside the door. best get a magnetic screw driver.

Now the door panel is still conected to the door in many places. they are "pop screws" you can take you flat head and pry the door panel away from the doors. you pry around the door jams and bottom and hinge.

there are about 7 pops i think, once that done the door panel is "hanging" on the top around the door, the chassi of the door. ill have video of this tricky part

to remove you must hold the door latch open and kinda hinge and life the door panel of the door chassi and off the door unlock/unlatch handle. its very hard to explain and a video is very needed.

i forgot the mention that on the front doors you gotta remove the tweeter to be albe to move the door panel up and off the door chassi. you do this buy prying it of the door. first the grill/cover, then the tweeter itself its attach with 3 plastic things that stick into rubber grommets.

once the door panel is off you have to disconnect plugs and such as needed. the bottom wire is for the light that lights up the ground at night when the door is open, its very hard to remove so i dont remove it..

you are far enough to unscrew what we want, the inlay, there are many gold colored screws that hold it in from the back. there is one behind the white foam. just poke though it and remove the the screw. to find it just pry on the foam and peek to find it.

do that for all the doors(2 hours at least)

now for the fun part. kinda..

Lay the panels out on your fabric ot vinyl.

for fabric have at least and inch hang over. 1.5 is best to be safe

vinyl. a inch at most. half inch at least

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/206818_10150143666584877_712759876_6731298_694228_%20n.jpg

each panel is different. the only thing the same about them is that the front and rear pairs will be the same shape, just flipped. its just better to cut each one out for each and keep it with each.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199547_10150143666684877_712759876_6731299_7628000%20_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/197353_10150143666739877_712759876_6731300_890140_%20n.jpg

Start in the middle, we are basically streching it over the piece in a way the it dont make any wrinkles. and make sure you dont mess up the ends. like glue it wrong from the start so a corner dont have any fabric.

BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT GET GLUE ON THE FRONT SIDE< YOU CAN NOT GET IT OUT. and with the constant flipping its very easy to do. trust me.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/205520_10150143666824877_712759876_6731303_6035752%20_n.jpg

ilike to tack the end up so they dont fly around when flipping the peice back and forth to check the tension of the fabric

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/208563_10150143666899877_712759876_6731305_783774_%20n.jpg

once that done just slow work your way from the middle out.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/196332_10150143666984877_712759876_6731307_5381807%20_n.jpg

i will have video soon too.

finished piece

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/198596_10150143667014877_712759876_6731308_7035037%20_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/197876_10150143667044877_712759876_6731309_4317145%20_n.jpg

install in reverse. have video of the panel going back on too. less tricky but still tricky.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/198831_10150143368689877_712759876_6729165_3128355%20_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199751_10150143368714877_712759876_6729166_3614838%20_n.jpg

Grille Painting

Original post by vascoobiedude. Post can be found here

Recently, I noticed the chrome was peeling off my JDM L7 Red emblem grill. So, I decided to take a shot at painting it. Pictures are limited, but heres what I did. Obviously, removing the grill is a given, so I didn't include how to do that. If you havent figured out how to do that, something like this may be over your level anyways. lol.

Step 1. Sanding- So, all that peeling, old, nasty looking chrome paint has got to go. Using steel wool or a scotch brite pad would be optimal, but I'm too impatient to spend hours removing paint, so i started with a medium grit sandpaper. Don't rub too hard, or you'll gouge the plastic. Too lite, and your arm will fall off before you're done. It's kinda one of those things you gotta just feel. Once you've roughed up the entire chrome surface (NOT the entire grill yet..), rinse it off to get rid of all the big chunks. Now comes the fun part... WET SANDING!!! I did mine in my bathtub, but you can do it outside with a hose, and/or bucket. The key here is light pressure, and lotsa water. A very fine grit wetsanding paper will take time to get the remaining paint off, but the results will be very nice indeed. If you did rub too hard with the coarse paper, dont fret. The wet sanding will smooth those gouges out... eventually. Once you have all the chrome off, go over the entire grill, or at least wherever you want to paint, wet sanding to make sure you have a smooth, paint friendly surface.

Step 2. CLEAN!!! As with any painting project, cleaning and prep is paramount to a good outcome. Wash off all the crud you created by sanding, with a CLEAN rag and soap. I used dawn, because it rinses clean and dosent have any of that girly lotion stuff in it that will adhere to the plastic. RINSE, RINSE, RINSE!!! If you think yopu got all the soap off, keep rinsing. Next you'll need to dry it. You can hang and drip dry, put it outside in the sun, or do like me and use a hairdryer. (Again, I'm impatient to a point.) There are alot of nooks and crannys in these things, and it only takes a tiny drop of water to mess up the whole process. So make SURE it is completely dry. Once it is, you're almost ready to paint.

Step 3. Masking- This is somewhat tedious... Mask the emblem off with masking tape. Trim off the excess tape LIGHTLY with a razor blade, making sure the entire emblem is covered, but not the surrounding area you want to paint. Tape and paper and other spots you don't want to paint. This should be pretty straight forward, so not a lot of details to cover.

Step 4. CLEAN!!! I know you're saying "I already cleaned it, Scoob!" Yes. You did. But, you've also been handling it in the process of drying and masking. So, the oils from your skin have gotten on that freshly sanded raw plastic, and need to come off. Rubbing alcohol and COTTON BALLS will take that right off. No toilet paper, paper towels, or rags, these leave lint. Cotton balls or your girlfriends/wifes/moms cotton makeup pads work great. Rub the entire surface to be painted with plenty of alcohol, and wait for it to dry. Now we're ready to get high! Er, I mean paint! lol.

Step 5. Paint- Color, type of paint, etc. is going to be personal preferance, so I'll explain what I did, and why. If you value brain cells, ventilation is important. If you've had a bad week at work, maybe it's not. I started with a light coat of black FILLER PRIMER. This fills in any of the small imperfections that sanding may have left in the plastic. It dries quick, so I had time to smoke a ciggaret, and then it was time to put on coat #2 of primer. I did this simply to ensure uniform coverage. Once that dried, it was color time!!! I wanted satin black, simply because A. I couldn't decide what else would look good, and B. It was easy. lol. Because it was primed, using plastic specific paint wasn't necessary. So, I wen't with Satin black High Heat Rustoleum Grill and BBQ paint. Now, I can hear the jokes already, about wrong kind of grill, can I have a burger, etc. But let me explain... The grill you cook on, stays outside. In the sun. And in the weather. And in the heat. So, naturally, the paint has to withstand those elements. Right? Logically, it makes sense to me that if it works on a BBQ grill, it should be able to hold up to the rain, and sun, and heat of being on the front of my car! Hey.. Makes sense to me... The key here, is to use multiple light coats of paint, allowing just enough time for the surface to be tacky, but not dry, between coats. Too much, and you'll have runs. Too light, and it will be rough to the touch and look. 4 coats later, its time to dry for good! Patience, lazy, etc. i used my trusty hairdryer again, just to get a good solid bake on the top, and then put it back on the car to sun dry. I did this, so that when drying/curing outside, bugs, leaves, etc, wouldn't stick to it.

Step 6. Enjoy!! Do not install the grill if you need to drive the car within 24 hours of painting it. This is roughly how long it will take my method to properly cure and dry, to where bugs hitting it won't screw up your new paint.

Now for pics!!!

Before... Notice the peeling, stained chrome...

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Scoobie/IMG_3491.jpg

In the tub, ready to sand...

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Parts/photo.jpg

Sanded and masked up, ready for primer..

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Parts/IMG_3495.jpg

Primed, ready for color

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Parts/photo2.jpg

Unmasked, hairdryer cured, ready to go on the car

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Parts/IMG_3496.jpg

Finished, and installed!

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Parts/IMG_3497.jpg

http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/vascoobiedude/Parts/IMG_3498.jpg

Whatcha think??

[/size]

Front CV Axle

Original post by 1997lgt. Thread can be found here

I wrote this on another forum, but figured it would be useful on here

This is going to be a step by step DIY walkthrough on changing a front axle on a 1997 Subaru Legacy GT, but should be generally the same for any Subaru model. I did this in a gravel driveway with hand tools, so don't say you can't do it.

First step: Acquire Proper Tools

#1/2 Drive 32mm Socket

#Lug Wrench

#14mm Socket

#Mallet or Hammer

#1/4" round punch

#Wedge Punch

#GOOD Jack & Jackstands

#PB Blaster (penetrating oil)

#Book of Swears

Second Step: Removal

With the car still on the ground, pull the handbrake and/or block the rear wheels to prevent any accidents. Now is a good time to break the lug nuts loose as well. Pop off any type of center caps to gain access to the axle nut. Lift the car up just enough to take the weight off the wheel. Having someone sit in the vehicle and hold the brake may help to keep the wheel from spinning during this. Take your 32mm socket and a good breaker bar and break loose the axle nut. This is to protect the wheel bearing from any unnecessary strain from being released with weight still on that wheel.

(And yes, I know that’s a torque wrench. It is so far out of calibration that I use that one as a breaker bar. PLEASE do NOT use your torque wrench to break ANY nut/bolt loose!!)

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6658r.jpg

Position your jack underneath the car. Towards the lower control arm is a good jacking location. You only need the car high enough to get the wheel off the ground, but higher would be more accessible. Make sure you put a JACK STAND underneath. Now remove the wheel and set it and the nuts in a safe place for later.

Now we should see something like:

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6638r.jpg

Alright, now get your PB plaster or penetrating oil of choice and lay it to both the ball joint pinch bolt as well as the sway bar link bolts. You may not need it, but it always helps. Let it soak in for a few minutes. Good time for a cold drink, imho.

Next, take a 14mm socket and loosen the upper sway bar link bolt. You will have to hold one side with another 14mm socket/wrench as you loosen it. Arrow below points to the other side you must hold while loosening. (Nut already removed before picture was taken) Remove bolt from sway bar and set it aside.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6647r.jpg

Now take the same 14mm socket to the pinch bolt holding the lower ball joint in place.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6644r.jpg

Support the rotor/spindle with a jack to pull tension off of the control arm. Get your mallet or hammer of choice and knock the flattest part of the control arm downward to eject the ball joint from the spindle. If necessary, use a long bar as a long punch against it. Should only take a few good blows and then it should look like this:

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6648r.jpg

Alright, now loosen the axle nut the rest of the way and drive it back through the spindle. Be very careful not to damage the internal splines.

You can now swing the whole upper assembly (spindle, rotor, strut, etc) up and away enough to pull the axle all the way out of the spindle and off to the side.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6674r.jpg

Now to get remove the axle pin from the transmission side. Find where the roll pin goes through the axle. Its going to be closest the transmission. Take a ¼” punch and hold it against the pin and drive it out with a hammer.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6668r.jpg

You should now be able to remove the axle from the transmission. A pry bar and a quick jolt may be needed to separate if the axle has seized to the splines.

Now sit back and have another cold beverage and realize you’re only HALF way done!!

Third Step: Installation

The best way to start reinstalling the axle is to drive the new roll pin just a little ways into the new axle to keep it in place. Align it with the hole on the transmission output shaft and drive the pin all the way through until flush. It makes it easier if you do that step first.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6672r.jpg

Now swing the spindle up again and slide the outer splines into the spindle, careful again not to damage any splines. Once it’s all the way through, put the axle nut on hand tight for now.

You can now align the spindle assembly back up with the lower ball joint. It may take some cussing, but it will align up and pop right back into place. Make sure it seats all the way against the lower spindle and torque the pinch bolt to 28-37 FT-LBS.

Pull the sway bar back into alignment with the link, install the bolt, and tighten the nut. Go back and recheck torque on everything and make sure you don’t have any extra parts. Roll pin back in? Ball joint bolt torque? Sway bar reattached?

Now you can put the wheel back on and hand tighten the lugs. Remove the jackstand and lower the vehicle down until the tire barely touches the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 60 FT-LBS, and torque the axle nut to 137 FT-LBS. I always like to torque an axle nut, break it loose and then retorque it again to preload the bearings.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/moparpower2003/LGT/PICT6660r.jpg

Lower the vehicle the rest of the way and you’re done! Test drive the vehicle listening for any kind of noises or play. Retorque bearing once more. Clean up, put your tools away and call it a day.

If I’ve forgotten anything feel free to let me know and I’ll add it back in.

I am in no way a certified mechanic, nor do I work for Subaru. Always use your best judgment. I can’t be to blame for any injury you might incur while using this walkthrough. Always verify torque specs as well, as we all make mistakes.

Fog Lights On With Parking Lights

Originally posted by Zues Marine here.

Tools needed:

• 10mm Socket
  
• Wire Clippers
  
• Quick Wire Connectors or soldering gun
  

Difficulty: 3/10

• This guide shows you how to wire your fogs to run whenever your parking lights do, as far as i know this is an illegal mod in all states so do this at your own risk.
  

Walkthrough:

Step One:

• Trace the wires from your fog lights back around 6" and cut them so you have a good amount of wire to work with. Strip the ends of the wire about .3" you can now pull or hide the wiring from your OEM switch as you will not be needing it afterwards.
  
  

Step Two:

• Unbolt the three 10mm bolts securing the headlight to the radiator support
  

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/DIY%20Fogs%20and%20PLights/100_0269.jpg

Step Three:

• Pull out the headlight at an angle, be careful not to pull to hard, as the the rod near the turn sigle is somewhat delicate
  

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/DIY%20Fogs%20and%20PLights/100_0270.jpg]

Step Four:

• Rotate the turn signal counter clockwise to disengage from the headlight and let the bulb hang over your bumper
  

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/DIY%20Fogs%20and%20PLights/100_0271.jpg

Step Five:

• Run a length of wire from the turn signal bulb to the wires you stripped from the fogs. connect the wires and thread them through to your signals
  

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/DIY%20Fogs%20and%20PLights/100_0272.jpg

Step Six:

• Using your quick connectors, tap into the parking signal wires like this: (blue connectors in the picture)
  

Driver's Side:

fog wire purple tapped into parking light red

fog wire black tapped into parking light black

Pass. Side:

fog wire green to parking light red

fog wire black to parking light black

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/DIY%20Fogs%20and%20PLights/100_0273.jpg

Step Seven:

• Test, clean up the wires, reassemble and enjoy
  

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/DIY%20Fogs%20and%20PLights/100_0278.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/100_0200.jpg

Short Shifter Install

Originally posted by Zues Marine here.

Saw some of you having trouble or questions so here ya go

Diy using a B&M Short shift kit

Shifter Side-by-side

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/4269/sidebysidefo3.jpg

OLD REAR BUSHING

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/1043/oldrearmountsg8.jpg

Thats a KartBoy bushing but its identical to the B&M

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/images/kbrearshifterbushingmain.jpg

The front bushing wasn't in bad shape but I replaced them with the B&M that came with the kit..

This is also a Kartboy bushing but identical to B&M (i am just using this for reference)

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/images/kartboybushing.jpg

Now the whole process wasn't to bad except for the fact that the B&M kit did not come with a shifter retaining clip!!!!!!!!!!

It comes with everything else but not something that costs 10 cents!!

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/2825/shifterclipbq9.jpg

This is do-it-yourself if you have the right tools. This job was pretty easy since we were using a hoist but it is 100% possible to do this in your garage.

When you purchase the B&M kit it gives you a pretty decent description step-by-step of what to do.

Summary:

Remove center console

Remove bracket holding dust boot (6 screws)

Unscrew the shift knob

Un-bolt the upper linkage from the shifter

Drop Exhaust

Drop the exhaust shield

Drop the mid drive shaft support (optional for more room)

Un-bolt lower linkage from shifter

Remove retaining ring clip w/ proper puller tool

Pull out rear shifter linkage from the rear shifter mount

Remove the rear shifter mount

Remove the front shifter mount from the linkage (push it out w/ end of hammer)

Replace front shifter mount (push it in with your fingers left/right bushing)

Replace rear shifter mount

Remove the shifter

Replace the shifter w/ new grease

Reconnect everything

The only thing that seemed strange was the metal bracket holding the dust boot had to be installed backwards and only 4 screws can be used.

Theres a few little steps I didn't mention but the step-by-step w/ the kit will explain.

Heres also the legacy guide for a 97' I am sure its the same as 95-99.

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9544/assemblymq1.jpg

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/6026/43366151eh4.jpg

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/945/62675652xb4.jpg

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3109/49868676ws7.jpg

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3808/97641773il8.jpg

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/3148/59838905ie9.jpg

Final thought.

Its night and day! The shifts are 70% shorter IMO and there is 5% play with the shifter while in gear no wobble no nothing!

You can't beat the quality of the product!

Carbon Fiber Gauge Face and Color Change

Originally posted by Zeus Marine here.

Tools:

Phillips Screwdriver

Flat-Blade Screwdriver

Push Pins

220-400 Grit Sandpaper

Xacto Knife/ Scissors

Colored Sharpie

1-2 Feet of 'Clear Carbon Fiber Vinyl' - Found Here

[1.] to begin, take the needles off your gauges:

~before you remove the needles for the speedo, tach, and, water temp lift them enough to slip them past the little stoppers let the needles hang free

http://img26.picoodle.com/img/img26/3/12/6/f_fgauge001mam_20226ee.jpg

~remember where they hang down to so when to go to put them back in you wont have to guess as much to get them back into reading correctly.

~when you go to put the needles back in it'll take a little force to get them seated properly

~to check to see if you've gotten them back in alignment for the 5spd ~31 mph is redline ~6250rpm for the L in 1st

~~I used this method to pop off the needles (carefully, of course)

~taking a flat head screwdriver, use the edge of the bezel as leverage to push up the needle as you pull em off with your other hand

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1024.jpg

[2.] remove the 2 screws to access your gauge, if you havent sanded and colored the back to change your dash colors, now would be a good time to do so...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1026.jpg

[3.] lay out your vinyl face down make sure its goiing the same direction you chose. and trace around your gauge leaving about .25" of clearance

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1027.jpg

[4.] Lay your gauge atop the freshly cut-out piece to make sure that it will cover it all... BEFORE YOU UN-STICK IT!

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1039.jpg

(it fits, the paper's just curved)

[5.] flip over your gauge and lay it on a roomy table or something of that nature, remove the vinyl, (be careful not to load it with fingerprints),take time to make sure that the boxes on the vinyl are straight vertically or horizontally. you dont want it to be crooked, trust me. when you feel its right, delicately lay it on your gauge.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1041.jpg

[6.] take the time to smooth out the vinyl on your gauges very well, the better you rub it in, the better it'll look. i just used the back of my fingernail, it seemed to work

[7.] now find something safe to cut on, i used a brownie box. mmmm... and use a box or xacto knife to cut the excess away. note the knife is actually amidst the colors to the right of the picture

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1042.jpg

[8.]im sure by now you know to remove any bubbles by popping the with a thumbtack or sewing neeedle but if you didnt, now you do, poke and squish, but now you need to make the screw holes, the tach hole, and the tach stopper holes.. just poke them out with a thumbtack.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1046.jpg

[9.] reinstall your gauges to the bezel when you're all done

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1049.jpg

[10.] before you put the dash back together, take the gauge cluster without the clear cover and trim and hook it up to your car.. take a drive and take time to adjust your speed / rpms

[11.]put everything back together and enjoy!!

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/100_1052.jpg

horrible pic, light is spread even, i'll get a better pic soon

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/IMAGE_105.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/SL-i/DSCN0384.jpg

Rack & Pinion

Original thread by VWScooby. Original link can be foundhere.

This is a quick DIY for anyone that needs to replace the steering rack on your Impreza. This was done on Davids (RS.Wagon) 1994 Subaru Impreza AWD with the EJ18. There may be slight differences in the procedure depending on the year/engine in your car, however it shouldnt be too different.

Disclaimer: If you dont know what you are doing, please dont hurt yourself and take it to a shop. I'm in no way responsible if you hurt yourself or others or damage your car following these procedures. Use at your own risk!

sorry for the poor picture quality, my camera blows

here's what we did:

1) Make sure your old rack in completely toast! do this by rallying the piss out of your car in the middle of the night and running over a rail road tie. Make sure a good amount of Power steering fluid is pissing on your exhaust, enough to make smoke come pouring out of your hood.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012434.jpg

2) Man up and admit your screwed the pooch. go buy a new rack! (i dont have any pictures of the rallying part unfortunately)

3) jack the car up using jack stands on a level surface.

4) take the front wheels off

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012433.jpg

5) Take off the castle nut on your outer tie rod ends by first removing the cotter pin and then spinning the 19mm nut.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012440.jpg

6) take a brass hammer and tap the tie rod ends out, if needed, spin the castle nut onto the tie rod end again so it sits flush with the beginning of the stud and tap on it, make sure not to damage the threads otherwise your buying a new tie rod end (may not be a bad idea depending on the condition of yours)

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012439.jpg

7) undo the lock nuts holding the outer tie rod end in place (19mm wrench i think)

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012438.jpg

8) Untwist the outer tie rod ends from the inner and count the number of turns it takes to come off (this comes in handy when putting them back on). Write this down somewhere!

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012443.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012458.jpg

9)Undo the exhaust manifold. there are 6 nuts holding it on the the heads (14mm deep socket) and two on the cat pipe (14mm bolts/ nuts) you'll need a 14mm wrench to keep the nut on the other side from spinning

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012448.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012447.jpg

10) undo the small black plate seen there (14mm bolt/nut)

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012441.jpg

11)Undo the front sway bar. there are through bolts on each end link that you can take off and one bolt on each of the two brackets holding it on to the chassis.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012446.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012444.jpg

12) center the steering wheel and mark the steering knuckle and the input to the steering box. We did this but ended up not using the marks since we put in a new rack. Loosen the bolt clamping the joint onto the shaft. Note: make sure not to spin the steering wheel with the column detached from the rack, you may destroy your clockspring.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012451.jpg

13) place a drip pan under the rack if you havnt already and undo the power steering lines. there are 2 lines, one takes a 17mm i think and one takes a 14mm. its impossible to hook it back up the wrong lol. subaru was thinking

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012454.jpg

14) Undo the 4 bolts holding the power steering rack in 14mm i believe

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012455.jpg

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012456.jpg

15) drop that nasty rack on the drip pan.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012457.jpg

New Rack:

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z291/benvr6passat/forums/writeups/P1012449.jpg

16) switch the necessary hard lines over to the new rack. clean them up, especially the fittings and install new O rings. (no pictures of this step, but its easy, just lay the two racks side by side and swap over)

17) install everything in the opposite order you took it off.

18) fill the PS reservoir with proper fluid (ATF in this case)

19) torque the wheels down etc...drop the car on the ground

20) crank the steering wheel side to side and check for leaks. make sure the reservoir is still at appropriate level

21) test drive time!

22) get a alignment done, you'll need it

Feel free to make comments/additions, i will go back and edit the original post if necessary

Dying Carpet

Original thread by httrdd. Link can be found here.

The other DIY was not informative so I figured I would share the one I made on SL-i.net

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-05-04_17-39-21_317.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-05-04_17-39-52_411.jpg

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-05-04_17-25-38_602.jpg

Items needed:

3 bottles of Rit fabric dye

Scrubbing brush

Spray bottle

Tarp

Laytex gloves

Scotchgaurd spray

Very easy to do and does not take a lot of time and cost in total 20 bucks! You can choose any color you want since it will work the same. I used Rit dye in black (pay no attention to the Bondo in the pic).

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-04-23_14-21-56_837.jpg

Step 1.

Remove carpet completely from car and vacuum thoroughy. Deep shampoo carpet to remove and oils, grease, food, dirt, and anything else spilled. Next lay carpet on tarp to prevent dying anything else around the carpet.

*If you have the down time, wash and scubb the carpet and let dry.

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-04-24_17-31-07_117.jpg

Step 2.

Put on laytex gloves and moisten the carpet with water. Drain water from spray bottle and put dye into spray bottle and spray first coat lightly just so you see some color covering the carpet. Use scrubbing brush to scrubb and push the dye into the carpet. Add second coat a little heavier and brush in deep. Now spray the last bit of dye into the carpet and brush until you think all areas are covered and there are no puddles of dye on the carpet. Make sure to get edges and any where the carpet is exposed.

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-04-24_18-01-05_694.jpg

Carpet should look like this

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-04-24_18-01-14_797.jpg

Step 3.

Hang to dry or expose to sun. I hung mine in the garage with fans running to speed up the drying for two days.

http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo185/httrdd/2011-04-24_18-07-06_984.jpg

Step 4.Once carpet is dry vacuum thoroughly.

Step 5.

Spray a light coat of Scotchgaurd fabric spray over carpet and let dry for about 30 mins. Spray next coat medium and let dry for another 30 mins. Finally spray another coat making sure you get all over the carpet and let it get dry to the touch.

Step 6 You can now reinstall your carpet. Avoid touching the carpet for about a week so the dye can settle in. Use floor mats to drive the car during the drying process. If you have the down time let dry for about a week before reinstall.

Ok you are all done and your carpet looks new! :smt023 I have had mine in for about 2 weeks and I can rub my hand on it and a damp rag with no problems. Good luck!

:sunny:

Window Pads

Original thread written by DTSJR. Link here.

I want to start off by saying that this is not a fix for the infamous window scratches. Over time the windows can still scratch. This is just a band aid for the problem. If probably maintained, you can prevent further scratching.

Is this how your windows look?

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00066.JPG

If you want to replace the pads, it will cost you $70 or more to do so. Heres how I repaired mine for a lot less.

Tools needed:

Flathead and Philips head screw driver

10mm socket/wrench

Scissors

Exacto knife

Materials need:

Faux fur

Super glue

Step 1:

First start by removing the door pannel. If you dont know how, in the image below, the yellow dots have screws behind plastic inserts, and the purple dots pop out. Once you have the pannel unscrewed and poped off, you have to pop off a small plastic peice that by the mirror. Then just lift the pannel up, and it should come off. You can leave the wires for the switches plugged in, and just let the pannel hang.

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00065.JPG

Step 2:

Once the pannel is off you will see the two inside pads and their brackets. There is one 10mm bolt you have to take out to remove the bracket, and then slide the pad out.

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00068.JPG

Step 3:

Now that the inside pads are out you have room to move the window to get to the outside pads. I have been told there are two inside and two outside pads, but there are actually three outside pads. On the sides of the pads are tabs that have to be pushed in to remove the pads. You have to slide your fingers between the window and the door to push the tabs in. The pads might be hard to remove, so a little pry from a flat head screw driver will help. It also helps to take off the weather stripping on the side of the door to get to one of the pads.

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00074.JPG

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00072.JPG

If you have fat fingers:

If you have trouble getting to the tabs to push them in you can remove the black strip along the top of the door. Remove the screw from the end of the strip. Then you have to pull up carefully on the strip to get the white tabs to pop off the door. I was able to get a few to pop off, but I didnt use much force so I wouldnt break them.

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00078.JPG

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00079.JPG

Now that you have one pad completly glued, it should look something like this:

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00098.JPG

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00100.JPG

Now just do the rest of the pads the same way. Ten pads in total. Shouldnt take too long once you get the hang of it all.

Here are the driver's side pads before:

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00080.JPG

Here are the driver's side pads after:

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00110.JPG

Step 7:

Installation is the reverse of the removal.

Pictures of the pads installed:

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00111.JPG

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00112.JPG

http://www.danboughtwhat.com/projects/window/DSC00113.JPG

Total cost: $5. $3 for the fur, $2 for a pack of super glue.

I recommend that once in a while you take out the pads to clean them. Or if the pads wear down (hopefully not too quickly), you will have plenty of extra fur to redo them.

I hope this helps some people. Since this isnt really a fix, just a cheap alternative I would like to find a fix. So keep an eye out if I do...

VLSD Conversion

Original thread is from compression. Original link is here.

My goal for this project was to end up with a 4.11 Viscous limited slip rear differential (VLSD). R160 style diff only, I know nothing about the R180s...

This covers how to install a viscous unit from one T-type R160 diff into another. VA type R160 differentials (shown later in this thread) are very different and most of this would not apply.

STEP 1: This is the hardest part of the whole process; Locate a Subaru LSD rear end. I was fortunate to find one at a local wrecking yard out of an SVX. The SVX diff has a ratio of 3.54 which is not what I needed. Luckily (right next to the SVX in the wrecking yard) there was a '96 legacy with a 4.11 open rear diff. Pulled both diff's out and headed home....

STEP 2:

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/3126/img1012tg7.jpg

Remove the differential center unit from the viscous diff (shown at right). This is done by removing all the 14mm bolts from the diff cover, and the 12mm bolts from the side bearing supports. The 4.11 open diff is show at left.

STEP 3:

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7914/img1013xf0.jpg

Remove the ring gear from the LSD with a 17mm socket. A beefy impact gun really help for this. If you dont have an impact, then you will have to put the diff in vice and try it that way. When all the bolts are removed, gently tap the diff body on the benchtop and the ring gear will fall off.

STEP 4:

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/532/img1016sd5.jpg

Remove the cover from the open diff. Keep all your bolts organized and all the parts clean. Proceed to remove the bearing caps and take the diff out of the housing. LABEL THE BEARING CAPS so that you know which side is which. Also, be careful with the shimming gaskets and O-rings in there. Keep it organized!

STEP 5:

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/596/img1019lb1.jpg

With the open diff out, remove the ring gear just like you did with the LSD. Here you can see the open differential on the right and the LSD on the left.

STEP 6:

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8374/img1023pq8.jpg

Swap the ring gear from the open diff on to the LSD. Torque each bolt to 45-50 ft-lb in an alternating pattern.

STEP 7:

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/5497/img1021ks0.jpg

Here is where it gets tricky! The new diff did not fit back into the open (non-LSD) case..oh no! what do we do? Well, I will tell you. We grind! Use whatever power tool, grinder, sander, die grinder, etc you have and work down the 2 bumps as shown (this is the drivers side of the diff case). It doesnt take much. Make sure you clean up all your sanding/grinding mess, you dont want metal flakes inside the diff. It may tak a few test fits, but the diff will eventually go in.

STEP 8:

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8718/img1024lb4.jpg

Reinstall the bearing caps. Torque the bolts to 8ft-lb in alternating sequence, yes, only 8. Make sure you line up the arrows. Also, make sure you have 2 shimming gakets on each side and the O-rings. You can adjust the bearing preload with more or less gaskets, but every diff I have ever opened always has 2 on each side.

STEP 9:

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/5842/img1025hx8.jpg

You should now have the diff mounted in the case. Check to make sure everything is moving freely by rotating the input shaft and watching the ring gear rotate. It should feel smooth. This is the point that you can check tooth engagement according to the FSM (section 3-4, pg 50)

STEP 10:

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7595/img1026oi4.jpg

Install the cover with it's gasket and you are all set. Torque bolts to 20 ft-lb in an alternating sequence. Now wasn't that easy?

Now comes the fun part where you need to fabricate some sort of wrist pin removal tool. Subaru uses two types of wrist pin. The EJ22 and EJ25 are “easy” to remove and use the lower tool. These pins have a simple hole through them that allows the tool to slip through and hook the edge. The EJ20 wrist pin SUCKS. The hole is tapered and so requires a lot of patience and often some help. The tool to use is on top.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5623.JPG

You can see the difference in this photo.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5624.JPG

Using the top tool in conjunction with a section of 12guage wire, you fish both through and then pull back on the tool to jamb the nub in the small section of the wrist pin so you can yank out the pin. Plain and simple, this can take awhile if the pins are really stubborn.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5626.JPG

Once the wrist pins are removed, you can rotate the crank to remove the pistons. First rotate the crank around and this will push the piston to the front and leave them there. Now push the piston back into the cylinder while twisting it.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5627.JPG

Then rotate the crank again and this will cause the rod to hit the back of the piston and push it out.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5628.JPG

Keep track of which piston came out of which hole and label them.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5629.JPG

---------------------------------------------------------

Video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How to piston pull!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR0Ed6qTIVQ]pulling pistons out of Subaru block - YouTube[/ame]

---------------------------------------------------------

Next step is to separate the two block halves.

Using a 12mm 12point socket, remove the 5 upper bolts.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5630.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5631.JPG

Remove the 3 front bolts

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5633.JPG

Remove the two bolts inside the water jacket.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5636.JPG

Spin the block around and remove the 6 bolts on the other side inside the water jacket.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5637.JPG

On the back where the flywheel was is a single 12mm bolt. You need small breaker bar to remove this bolt. DO NOT use a wrench, it will round over.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5638.JPG

The last bolt to remove is inside and requires a 10mm socket. You need a small breaker bar to remove this bolt. DO NOT use a wrench, it will round over.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5639.JPG

OK, that’s all the bolts.

To separate the block, you WILL have to tap it apart. Sometime you will have to REALLY tap it apart, hard enough to deform the aluminum. There are two places that have a small tube that fits into the other side of the block and these get sticky. I tap the block apart in the back, left to right on the tranny housing area.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5640.JPG

Then I tap apart in the front.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5641.JPG

This is where it will stick together.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5642.JPG

Finally, you can lift the block halve off the other.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5643.JPG

DONE!

Next I will reinstall bearings. But that will be awhile, I am going to have the block hot tanked to get it nice and clean.

Once the bolts are removed, the head will simply lift off. Repeat for the other head. Set heads aside in a safe clean area. If you are going to be reusing the head without a valve job, then you don’t need to do anything with the buckets and shims. If you are going to have a valve job done, YOU NEED TO pull out the bucket and shim and keep them in the EXACT same order they started as. You screw it up, its your motor…. Reinstalling and calibration of heads is not to be discussed in this thread.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5604.JPG

Now rotate the engine back to UP. We will next remove the crossover pipe and oil pump.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5605.JPG

There are four 10mm bolts holding the crossover pipe on. BE GENTLE!!!! These four bolts like to snap. The crossover pipe then lifts off.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5606.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5607.JPG

Last item to remove is the oil pump. Whoops, didn’t do a before photo…. Anyway, the oil pump is held in place by six 10mm bolts. Remove those and gently tap the bottom of the oil pump AWAY from the block to break the seal. There are two dowels that locate the oil pump to the block. Gently wiggle and pull the oil pump and it will come off. Remove the little black gasket near the bottom on the block.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5610.JPG

OK, that’s it for now. I will continue when I crack open the block and remove the bearings……..

Next we remove the flywheel. These eight bolds are 14mm fine thread. Don’t lose em. I prefer to use an impact wrench to remove them, but if you need to use a breaker bar, keep the wrench wedged in to hold the flywheel in place.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5613.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5614.JPG

Once the flywheel is removed, we have to pull the four pistons from out of the block. On the rear of the block are two cover plates held in place with Philip head screws. These guys WILL strip using a hand screwdriver unless you get lucky. Preferable use an impact driver to loosen them, or get a GOOD tipped Philips head and smack that as your attempt to loosen.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5615.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5616.JPG

Pry off the covers to reveal the insides.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5617.JPG

Here you will see the 14mm hex plug that hides the access point to the wristpin. The other side does not have a plug.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5618.JPG

Using a 14mm hexbit, remove the plug.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5619.JPG

On the front of the engine you find two hex plugs. Remove both plugs

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5620.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5621.JPG

Now rotate the crank so you can see the cir-clip holding the wristpin in. Either the front two will be visible, or the rear two. Using needle nose pliers, pull these clips out. You can reuse them, its up to you. Obviously if you damage one (I don’t know how the hell you would), you should replace it. But since there is NO stress on them, I reuse them.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5622.JPG

Part 3 HERE

Engine Teardown

Original artical written by reddevil. Link can be found here.

Part 2

Part 3

Start with an engine on an engine stand.

The intake manifold has already been removed, so no pics on that removal. Also, I neglected to take a before photo.

Turn motor upside down on the engine stand. Using a 14mm socket remove the 6 exhaust manifold nuts and pull manifold off. This one looks weird because it is a twin turbo exhaust manifold. Using the 14mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding the motor mounts.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5584.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5585.JPG

Next to remove is the oilpan. Use a 10mm socket. Then whack repeatedly with a rubber mallet. The dipstick needs to be removed first. On the top of the block is a 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. Remove bolt and yank dipstick tube out of oil pan.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5586.JPG

Next remove the eight 10mm bolts that hold the oil pick up tube and splash guard. Don’t drop them into the engine!

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5588.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5589.JPG

To remove the oil cooler, you need a deep socket 24mm. Remove oil filter. Haha. The socket fits over the threaded section that the oil filter screws onto. This bolt/tube is about 3-4” long. Undo the two hose clamps on the hose FARTHEST away from the cooler and remove the cooler and two hoses as a unit.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5590.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5591.JPG

Now rotate the engine back to its correct orientation. The next step is to remove the crank pulley by unbolting the 22mm crank bolt. This requires a good size breaker bar. You need to stop the rotation of the crank and the easiest way is to jam a wrench into the teeth of the flywheel

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5592.JPG

Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the removal of the crank pulley. But remove it anyway. After the crank pulley has been removed (this most likely requires quite a bit of wiggling and pulling), you need to remove the timing belt covers. The timing belt covers are held in place by 10 mm bolts. Again, no pictures.

Next is breaking the cam bolts free. You need to keep the timing belt on and the wrech stuck in the flywheel. On the older models the cam bolts are 17mm. On the new models, the cam bolts have become a cursed allen head bolt that is almost guaranteed to strip. Sorry folks, but if they strip, you will have to either “easy-out” them, or weld on a socket and break them free. When you reinstall them, I recommend getting the older 17mm bolts to replace them.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5593.JPG

After removing the bolts, you should remove the timing belt tensioner pulley to relieve the timing belt of its tension. It’s a 14mm head bolt.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5594.JPG

Now remove the timing belt, wiggle off the cam pulleys (inspect them for cracks, and if you had a really hard time removing the pulleys and MAY have damaged them, junk em!), and unbolt and remove the rest of the timing belt idlers.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5595.JPG

Now on both heads you need a 10mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the back of the timing belt covers on. Remove rear covers.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5596.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5597.JPG

Next to remove is the timing belt tensioner, tensioner mounting bracket and the water pump. The tensioner pictured is held on with two 12mm bolts. The bracket directly behind it is held in place with three 12 mm bolts. The water pump is held in place with six 10 mm bolts. When you remove the water pump, you can easily leave the hoses and metal hoses attached. Simply unbolt the 10mm mounting bolts and the water pump and hoses should come off as a for you to deal with later.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5598.JPG

Next is head removal. Remove the various (depends upon the head model) 10mm bolts that hold the cam cover on.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5599.JPG

Next you need to remove the cam caps. They are held on with 12mm bolts. They are labeled so you don’t need to worry about mixing them up. Just look at them to understand/remember where they will be returned to.

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5600.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5601.JPG

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5602.JPG

To remove the cams, tap GENTLY on the front of the cam UPWARDS and they will pop out. Now you need to remove the 6 head bolts. Using a 14mm twelve point socket and a ½” breaker bar, remove these 6 long bolts. PLEASE NOTE I am NOT removing the bucket and shims at this point. The buck and shims are the eight shiny ½ dollar sized parts. Note that some heads are bucket only, some are rocker arm, and some bucket and shim. The shim is a thin piece of metal that sits on top of the bucket. Of any head that has shims, DO NOT mess up the order in which they are placed!!!!!!

http://www.vincentfurniture.com/photos/subaru/engineteardown/IMG_5603.JPG

PART TWO HERE

CHANGE OLD HVAC CONTROL LIGHTS

Originally posted by Aczwild. Original link can be found here.

Well here it is, this is how you change those worn out lights on the older Legacys. Its relatively easy and painless and wont cost you much, like it would if you had a dealer do it. At the present moment I dont have the part numbers for the bulbs, but any Subaru Parts Dept should be able to tell you/ get you them. These bulbs are Subaru Specific, you wont be able to find them at an autoparts store. There are three bulbs that I know of that are part of the control unit and one in the Hazard switch.With that said, lets begin shall we?

What you'll need:

• Philips head screwdriver (magnetized prefreably)
  
• Bulbs from Subaru Dealer
  
• Needle Nose Pliers
  
• Regular Pliers
  
• A few 5/16" and 3/16" E-Type Retaining rings beacuse like me, you'll probably drop them and loose them
  
• Small box to put the screws and retaining rings in
  
• Cold drink of your choice

1. Disconnect the damn battery, you dont want to short anything else out, now do you?

2. Alright here we go, hop into your car and remove the cup holder as shown below. I'm sure you all know how to do this, I'm just being thorough.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y272/Aczwild/DSC00902.jpg

3. Next remove the two screws on where the cupholder used to be as shown below and take out the metal tray that held the cup holders

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y272/Aczwild/DSC00901.jpg

4. Now its time to get a little frisky with the car. First did you Disconnect the battery? If you didnt do it now, you dont want to short out any more lights, or anything else. Whenever you mess with anything electrical on your car you should disconnect the battery. Alright, back on track. Remove the plastic faceplate that surrounds the controls and then disconnect the hazard switch, shown below

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y272/Aczwild/DSC00890.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y272/Aczwild/DSC00891.jpg

5. Next unscrew these 4 screws to loosen the Heater Control Unit, this is where the magnetized screwdriver comes in handy, you dont want to lose these.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y272/Aczwild/DSC00892.jpg

10. Now we finally get to the bulbs in the unit, these bulbs only need about a 1/4 turn at most to free them from the unit. They should turn easily with your fingernail, or the tip of a flathead screwdriver, be gentile, you dont want to damage the electronics. The pic below shows you the location of the bulbs along with how much the back of the unit will separate from the front of the unit.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y272/Aczwild/DSC00898.jpg

11. Remove, replace and screw back together. You can now reconnect this to the car, you are done with the lights in the Heater control. WHEN YOU RECONNECT THE HEATER CABLE, MAKE SURE THE SLIDER IS ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT SO THE CABLE IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE. THE CABLE SHOULD LOOK LIKE THE PICTURE IN STEP 7 BEFORE YOU PUSH THAT RETAINING RING BACK IN. To get that retaining ring back in I used a pair of regular pliers to push it back in. It needs to hold the black plasice sheath in place. Now for the Hazard switch I dont have any pictures, but I can walk you through it.

12. On the Plastic cover with the Hazard switch in it, unclip the vents and remove. Unscrew the two screws that hold the hazard switch in and take that out. The silvery heat cover is basically a sticker and can be peeled off the side of the switch to reveal the bulb, remove, replace and congrats, you're all set. Put everything back together and reconnect the battery. The lights should be all set to go.

Stay tuned, in a week or so, I'm gonna replace a couple lights in the switches on the dash (ie. the rear window heater and any others that are blown)

+ edited

Convert Rear Drum to Rear Disk Brakes

Transcribed from WAC's Site

This installation will upgrade the rear drum brakes on an AWD Impreza or Legacy to rear disc brakes. I performed this modification using research information obtained from the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club (i-club) and Rallispec. The only 1993-2001 Impreza's with rear disc brakes are all 2.5RS models and certain 2.2L models in 1995 and 1996, including the 1996 Impreza Outback Sport. This documentation is based on the install on my 1997 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, which has ABS. Your installation may differ slightly if you do not have ABS.

Note: these instructions are intended for someone with reasonable automotive repair experience and knowledge. Many details have been omitted, as they can be found in other literature such as Haynes' excellent Subaru Legacy Automotive Repair Manual (1990 through 1998). Missing details include: suspension assembly/disassembly, brake assembly/disassembly, parking brake adjustment, and brake bleeding. However, I have included pictures wherever possible to aid presentation and to provide helpful hints.

Materials Required:

• 1 set complete and functional rear knuckle assemblies from any 1993-2001 Impreza or Legacy with rear disc brakes, consisting of:
  
• AWD knuckles, with hub and bearings
  
• Backing plates
  
• 10.1" solid disc rotors
  
• ABS sensors and cables (if applicable, and optional)
  
• 1-pot brake calipers
  
• Brake pads (new or used)
  
• Disc brake seal kit (optional, Subaru part number 26297AA040)
  
• Rear disc brake hoses, Subaru part numbers 26531AA041 (RH) and 26531AA070 (LH), or aftermarket equivalents.
  
• Parking brake cables (from Impreza RS or Legacy, but Impreza RS will be of proper length), Subaru Impreza RS part numbers 26051FA140 (RH) and 26051FA150 (LH)
  
• Brake fluid, DOT 4
  
• Shop rags

Tools Required:

• 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm socket (ratchet) wrenches
  
• 32mm hub socket wrench
  
• 14mm deep socket wrench
  
• 12" or longer breaker bar
  
• 4" and 6" socket wrench extensions (optional)
  
• 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm open-ended wrenches
  
• 8mm, 10mm flare nut wrenches (for brake bleeding, hoses)
  
• 2-ton floor jack(s) or equivalent
  
• 2-ton jackstand(s) or equivalent
  
• Oil/fluid catch pan or suitable container
  
• Speed bleeders (optional)
  
• Pliers (optional)
  
• Small flat-blade screwdriver (optional)

Let's Start

Before jacking up the car, it is advisable to loosen the axle nuts with a 32mm socket and breaker bar. Do this with the tires on the ground and the handbrake fully applied - it will give you a much bigger mechanical advantage than when the car is up on jackstands.

Jack up the rear of the car. Use a block of wood to prevent slippage. Rest the car on two jack stands. Remove the wheels. The descriptions from this point onwards will apply only to the right side - repeat as necessary when doing the left side:

If you forgot to loosen the axle nuts and have a helper, have him/her stand on the brake pedal while you loosen/remove the nut.

Remove the brake drum. If it is stuck, insert a M8x1.25 hardened bolt into one of the holes and turn with a wrench to pull the drum out. The drum will only get stuck on high-mileage cars where the drum shoes has worn a wide groove into the drum surface, resulting in a lip in the drum that catches the drum shoes.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/drum.jpg

Remove the rubber drum brake hose from the drum brake line at the strut tabs to the chassis (not shown). The rubber hose is attached to a rigid brake line out of the drum brake assembly. Be prepared to have a catch pan for the brake fluid spills (it was too late in this picture). Pinch off the brake hose or temporarily tie the brake hose so that it is up and out of the way.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/axlenut.jpg

Remove all the bolts securing the parking brake cable to the underside of the car. (Unfortunately, it was impossible to take pictures of the underside of the car, so you'll have to bear with line drawings.) It's probably very dirty under there, so please wear eye protection.

Go to the interior of the car, and remove the plastic center console. Remove or peel back the plastic parking brake skirt from the parking brake lever (not shown). Remove the rear seat.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/parkingbrakecable.gif

Peel back the carpeting to expose the equalizer cover. You may need to remove some interior panels to get access to removing parts of the carpeting. You may also need to remove the driver's and passenger's seats to be able to peel back the carpeting.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/equalizercover.gif

Remove the two nuts that bolt the cable clamp to the floor.

Loosen the parking brake cable locknut and adjuster nut at the parking brake assembly. Using the extra slack from the loosened/disconnected cable, remove the parking brake cables from both sides of the equalizer. A pair of pliers will come in handy here.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/cableclamp.gif

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/equalizer.gif

Push the parking brake cables, including the rubber boot, through the holes in the tunnel floor. Fish them out towards the knuckles under the car.

Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts. Leave one bolt in until the knuckle is ready to be removed entirely (a few steps from now).

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/strutbolts.jpg

Remove the ABS sensor from the drum assembly, if applicable. The existing ABS sensor can be reused with the disc assembly. If there are metallic particles stuck on the magnectic pickup, now is a good time to clean them off. The picture shows the sensor sitting on top of the parking brake cable, which is on top of the trailing link.

Remove the trailing link nut and bolt (not shown). This is the nut and bolt on the knuckle assembly that is lowest to the ground.

Remove the control arm-to-knuckle nut and bolt. This is the very long bolt that connects the two control arms to the knuckle. Be prepared with some lubricating spray and a lot of wrenching to pull the bolt out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/controlarm.jpg

Remove the last strut bolt (from a few steps ago). Remove the knuckle, along with the parking brake cables. Gently tap the axle with a rubber mallet as you slowly pull the knuckle away from the control arms, strut, trailing link, and axle half-shaft. The axle half-shaft will slide in and out of the center differential as well, so make sure that you don't pull the axle all the way out of the center differential. You may need to use a suitable drift or punch to push the axle the rest of the way out of the wheel hub.

I used a block of wood to rest the knuckle assembly while removing it - it's heavy!

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/almostout.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/axle.jpg

Install the new (or used) brake hose. You may also use stainless steel lines such as those from Goodrich instead of the OEM ones I have chosen.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/dischose.jpg

If you haven't already, preassemble the disc knuckle with the parking brake cable (not shown). Don't forget to reinstall the retaining clip that secures the parking brake cable to the knuckle.

The caliper and brake pads may be preassembled or left off for now, although it is wise to check the fit beforehand. Once fit looks good, leave the calipers off the knuckle.

Insert axle (half-shaft) into the disc hub (not shown). This is simply the reverse of the knuckle removal procedure. Apply grease where necessary. Again, a block of wood helps to hold the knuckle upright during this step.

Reinstall the control arm-rod-to-knuckle, trailing link-to-knuckle, and strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts, in that order. You do not need to worry about alignment, as alignment is done at the other end of the control arms. The torque specs should be about 100 ft·lbs for the strut bolts, 100 ft·lbs for the control arm, and 80 ft·lbs for the trailing link nuts. Install the ABS sensor into the disc knuckle, if applicable.

Install the parking brake cable to the underside of the car, reusing the same bolts and locations as for the drum brake cable. Bring the cable into the parking brake area through the holes in the tunnel floor, and attach the cables to the equalizer. Seat the rubber boot to seal up the tunnel floor holes. Reinstall the cable clamp bolts. Note: if you have a Legacy parking brake cable, it may be too long, and you may need to loop the extra length somewhere under the car.

Attach the new brake hose banjo bolt to the caliper. Note that the OEM brake hose has a specific orientation for each side of the car, but I don't remember if the Goodrich lines are this way or not.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/brakehose.jpg

Test-fit the rotor disc. It's probably a good idea to turn the rotors if they have high miles on them, appear warped, or are grooved. I got mine turned for $48 at the local Subaru service department, and they did a great job. I later bought a pair of brand new rear rotors from Double Discount Auto for just $30! The industry code for non-vented rear rotors is 470.

Check the parking brake cable adjustment. You may need to turn the parking brake adjustment wheel if it's too loose or the rotor won't go in easily. Some trial and error may be required to get the parking brake pads adjusted properly.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/parkingbrake.gif

Install the calipers and brake pads.

Reinstall the 32mm axle nut. Hand-tighten for now.

Reinstall the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever. Replace the carpeting inside the car, and reinstall the seats. Adjust the parking brake using the adjustment nut and locknut. You should be able to count 7-8 clicks until the parking brake is fully applied. Reinstall the parking brake lever skirt, followed by the center console.

If the caliper sliders are frozen or rusted, pry the caliper off the slider, clean thoroughly with brake cleaner and a cleaning pad such as scotch-brite, and re-grease with a high-temp grease. If the boots and/or seals are cracked or punctured, replace as necessary from items in the Subaru disc brake seal kit.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/discassy.jpg

Replace with new brake pads if necessary. For most pre-1999 models, the industry rear brake pad code is 471. For 1999 and later models, the brake pad code is 770.

Bleed the brakes and top off with new brake fluid.

Reinstall the wheels and lower the car so that you can tighten the axle nut to no more than about 135 ft·lbs. However, if you have a helper, you can get him/her to stand on the brakes while you torque the axle nut, and not have to wait until the car is on the ground. (If you have 2.5RS wheels, the fixed center cap doesn't seem to allow access to the axle nut anyways.)

Drive carefully while the pads bed in.

I noticed that the rear rotors don't get used a lot under light braking, as normal driving barely clears away surface rust on the disc rotors. The brake proportioning valve must have a bias towards the front brakes. However, the rear discs do see a fair bit of duty when the brakes are applied heavily, and that's when this upgrade is valuable. I have also upgrade the 1-pot front calipers to 2-pot calipers, and this combination consumes rear brake pads about twice as fast as front brake pads.

I've also noticed that the parking brake is a fair bit sloppier than the old drum setup, since the rear discs utilize a separate inner drum parking brake. This is a small detail, and does not necessarily indicate a problem with the parking brakes. My guess is that the geometry of the smaller inner drum provides less mechanical advantage than the full-size drum setup.

Standard disclaimer: This information is being provided as an educational and informational service for the Subaru community. I do not make any warranties, but I will be happy to help with questions about these modifications. Please proceed at your own risk!

Ok its time to get this mother out!

Position engine hoist over your bay: I needed to jack my car up a little to allow for the legs to clear the A arms.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-048.jpg

The lifting locations are as follows:

Alternator bracket

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-046.jpg

Engine Harness Bracket

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-047.jpg

Support the Transmission with a floor jack

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-049.jpg

Remove Transmission Bolts: Now remove the rest of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Its hard to get pictures of these so here is a pic of the trans showing the locations of the bolts. (a, b, c, d, e, f) the ones that are not tagged were removed in a previous step. Also note the pins as you will be fighting with these to get the engine and transmission separated.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-052.jpg

Ok now that you have those out jack up the engine so that the motor mounts clear the Cross member by an inch or two. Raise up the jack so the transmission is being supported. Now grab the engine and give it a good pull away from the trans, if you are lucky it will start to separate, but I doubt you are that lucky

If it doesn’t come apart try this. Where the engine meets the transmission put a putty knife and give it a whole lot of whacks. This will take some time be patient and keep fighting it. Once it starts separating work your way around as far as you can go. When you get it open enough to get a pry bar in there do so, just be careful not to break anything!

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-050.jpg

Once it comes apart check and make sure nothing is connected and lift her up!!!!

:sunny:

Now go ahead and lower the car!

Remove the V-belt Cover: Remove the 3-10mm nut and bolts and the 12mm bolt.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-011.jpg

Disconnect the alternator harness: 1 plug in alternator, 1 12mm nut, 1 plug in the AC Compressor, and the tie. Weave it out so it is out of the way, place it where the battery used to be.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-022.jpg

Remove Throttle Cables: Next remove the throttle cable/cables. Unscrew the 12mm nut as shown, you can see where there is no thread, slide it back to that point and it will come out. For the RS you will have to do this twice. Do Not loosen the other nut, this way everything goes back together correctly.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-023.jpg

Next pull the wire forward so there is enough slack to undo it from the throttle body. If you have ever taken the brakes off your mountain bike it is the same concept. Weave it out and pull it to where the battery used to be.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-025.jpg

Remove the Alternator Belt. Unscrew (a)-12mm then loosen (b)-12mm until the belt is loose enough to come off. Normally you wouldn't remove (a) but it needs to come off for the next step

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-026.jpg

Unbolt Power Steering Pump: Remove 2-10mm bolts (passenger side)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-028.jpg

Remove bolt (12mm) Its behind the PS Pump you will need an extention to get to it.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-029.jpg

Remove 2 bolts under PS Pump (12mm) It should be loose now so place power steering pump off to side as far out of the way as it will go

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-039.jpg

Undo plug, It should be loose now so place power steering pump off by the fender as far out of the way as it will go.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-036.jpg

Remove AC belt: Loosen (a)-12mm and remove (b + c)-12mm

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-030.jpg

Note that alternator belt and PS pump will have been removed already

Removal of Washer Reservoir is not necessary, but leaving it in as reference - GOTJ

Unbolt AC compressor: This step keeps you from having to recharge your AC. There are 4 14mm bolts holding the AC Compressor on. Remove (a) (b) and © to make things a little easier

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-042.jpg

Remove (d) and (e) the compressor will be loose now so move it as far over out of the way as you can.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-041.jpg

OK well we are getting there!

Remove Fuel Lines: The fuel lines are held on by a clip, with a Phillips screwdriver loosen clip and pull the line off. This may take a little twisting and force but it will come off. Have a container ready to catch the gas that comes out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-027.jpg

Remove Heater Inlet and Outlet Hoses: Careful when removing these more coolant will come out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-035.jpg

Remove Brake Booster Vacuum Hose: Located on intake manifold rear drivers side. The RS will also have a Cruise Control Vacuum Hose located just above/below this one.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-033.jpg

Unplug Engine Harness Connectors: Unplug the Brown and Gray plugs. Note under the bracket is one of the Transmission bolts that will have to be removed.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-031.jpg

Unplug Front O2 Sensor: Unplug front O2 Sensor. Note that there is a strap holding it to the Transmission, the bolt that holds this is one of the ones to be removed.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-032.jpg

Unbolt Pitch Stopper: Unbolt Pitch Stopper from transmission (14mm bolt and nut)

Sorry I don’t have a pic of this

Part 3 can be found here.

Original artical written by Joshua on RS25. Link can be found here.

Note : This guide is based on an RS 2.5 with a EJ251 in it. However, the engine removal procedure is nearly identical to the Legacy. There may be very minor differences throughout the guide, but for the most part its pretty dead on.

Part Two

Part Three

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-001.jpg

Tools Required:

- Sockets; 8,10,12,14,17mm both deep and shallow well

- Box wrenches in the same sizes as above

- Various extensions

- Breaker Bar

- Phillips and Flat screwdrivers

- Pliers

- Black Marker, White out

- Rags

- Engine Hoist w/ chain and/or stabilizer bar

- Floor Jack, Scissor jacks, Jack Stands x2

- Pry bar

- Metal putty knife

- Hammer

- PB Blaster

- Service Manual

Optional:

- Never seize

- Plastic sandwich bags

- Various lamps

- Various plastic containers

- Plastic ties and straps

- Protective eyewear

- Engine Stand

- Air tools

- A Friend

Fist things first pull the car into where ever you are undertaking this, make sure you have enough room to move the hoist around. Also make sure you have enough room above so that the motor and hoist will clear everything above the car. Next take a bunch of pictures from different angles of your engine bay and/or have another RS there to compare when putting everything back together. Another thing (which as you can see I didn’t do) is to wash the engine bay.

Note:

After removing any nuts, washers, and bolts if at all possible put them back in their original location. You will end up with quite a pile of parts after this and the last thing you want is extras! Another option is to label plastic bags and put the parts in there, or you can place parts in piles together. Just try and keep the parts organized.

All work was done on a 2001 2.2L Impreza L, I noted where I remembered the differences were with the RS

This writeup is for a Manual Transmission, there are differences for a Automatic Transmission please check with the service manual

Now either prop up the hood or remove it along with the hood prop. You are going to want to have a lot of room to work around the car, I highly reccomend removing it if you have help. To remove the hood there are 4 12mm bolts and the washer nozzle tube.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-004.jpg

Remove the Battery: There are 2 bolts (10mm) for the terminals and 2 bolts (10mm) for the tie down.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-003.jpg

Remove Intake: since I don’t have a stock intake I am leaving pictures out of this: Just remove the intake leave the vacuum lines attached to the engine, if you are worried about what one goes where use the white out and make notations i.e. 1 and 1, 2 and 2, etc.

Jack the car up: I try and get it pretty high so there is plenty of room to work. Place it on jack stands and make sure the rear tires are chucked.

Drain Radiator: It’s now time to drain the radiator. The drain is located at the bottom of the radiator on the passengers side. The screw is a plastic wing nut looking thing. Its a tight fit for your hands.

If you have a big pan and are not worried about a mess just take the screw out completely, it comes out 10x faster - RS22B

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-006.jpg

Insert a small tub or place a plastic container below the car to catch the coolant. It leaks out of the screw part so having something to catch the extra fluid is a good idea. Turn until you see coolant coming out. Also while you are in there remove the plug for the fan. To do this lift the tab away from the plug and pull the plug out

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-007.jpg

See it leaking!

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-008.jpg

Pic of my container and note the pan, I found this at a junk yard, it works great for this, brakes, anything you dont want a mess over your floor over

Remove Coolant Resivor While that is draining remove the Coolant reservoir. There are 2 10mm bolts holding it on.

Alternatively you can leave this connected and pull it with the radiator - GOTJ

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-010.jpg

Now remove the clip from the other side and remove the reservoir, it requires a little bit of force and jiggling and it will come out

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-013.jpg

Now its time to crawl under the car

Remove the Second Fan Plug: This is for the drivers side fan

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-017.jpg

Remove the Headers: 6-14mm nuts for the RS, 4-14mm nuts for the L. Be ready for the studs to come out with them, if they are rusted bad enough you might want to think about replacing them. Remove the 2-17mm rear bolts and nuts that connect the header to the Cat.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-015.jpghttp://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-016.jpg

Take off the 2 10mm bolt holding on the thermostat cover, have a bucket it because you will have a good amount of coolant coming out. Also be very careful removing these one of mine snapped, luckly there is enough thread left that I can still get it out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-014.jpg

Remove Motor Mount Nuts: While you are under there remove the 14mm motor mount nuts and washers; one on each side.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-019.jpghttp://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-018.jpg

Remove Lower Trans Bolts: Next remove the lower engine/transmission bolts (14mm) driver side. The top one is a bolt and the bottom is a nut. It will take some maneuvering to get to them

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-020.jpg

As for the passengers side it is easier to get these from the top.

Now that hopefully most of the coolant is out you can tighten the drain plug and remove the plastic tube. There is a clip on the radiator securing the radiator inlet hose (passenger side), with a 10mm wrench loosen it and remove the hose. Next remove the 2 bolts from the top of the radiator. Pull the radiator up to remove it. You will just have to maneuver the lower radiator hose (drivers side) around the wiring that is there. Place the radiator off to the side

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-012.jpg

Part 2 can be found here.

Maintenance - Fluid Types & Capacity

4EAT

5MT

Front Differential (4EAT ONLY)

Rear Differential

Clutch

Engine Oil

Better Gauge Lighting - LED

Original thread can be found on SL-i written by Chief. Link can be found here.

Do highlight the instrument panel GC/GF/BG/BD/ or other subaru

We all know that the instrument panel, which light bulb standard, dull. Try to make them brighter.

We will need:

1. screwdriver +

2. pliers

3. diode tape

4. solvent

5. soldering Iron

6. solder

7. rosin

8. two-sided tape

9. glue

First step.

1.remove the dashboard from the car

2.dismantle the dashboard

http://savepic.net/1447205.jpg

3.on the reverse side of the dashboard unscrew bolts that keep the devices inside

http://savepic.net/1493284.jpg

4.then take out the scale of housing

http://savepic.net/1495332.jpg

5.take the diode tape we bought and treatment on the part

http://savepic.net/1458468.jpg

6.further welds diode tape so that it could be placed inside the dashboard.and then glue the diodes with two-sided sticky tape and glue

http://savepic.net/1483047.jpg

7.All scales are covered with a thick layer of color filters.we need to erase these filters.For this purpose we take the cotton pads and a solvent.plot the solvent on cotton pads and gently begin to erase the filter from the back side of the scale.

http://savepic.net/1506598.jpg

8.contacts of the diode solder tape to areas where there were light bulbs.It is important to observe polarity when connecting power!

http://savepic.net/1493307.jpg

9.collect panel in reverse order and test.Result!

and my BG5 http://savepic.net/1073932.jpg

sorry all photo was made on my old phone.

I hope this topic will help someone. Sincerely, Chief.

JDM Projector Headlight Install

Original thread can be found by "warrior" on SL-i at this link

Notes:

• Disconnect negative terminal from battery

• There are no removal instructions or assembly instructions as those should already be straight forward.

• There are four bolts to remove the USDM Headlights and only three to mount the JDM Headlights

• To remove the grill; use a flat screw driver to push the centre lever between the clips down until you hear a 'click'. The plastic lever stays down and this will allow you to remove the whole clip from the frame. The clips come off from the frame and stay mounted to the grill.

Part 1: USDM Electrical Wires Explained

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector01.jpg

Driver Side

Red = High Beam

Red/Blue = Power

Yellow/Blue = Low Beam

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector02.jpg

Passenger Side

Red = High Beam

Black/Yellow = Power

Yellow/Blue = Low Beam

Part 2: JDM Electrical Wires Explained

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector04.jpg

The wires are identical for both driver/passenger side. These really don't need an explanation as you can trace the wires yourself to see which one goes where.

Red = Power (This wire goes to both high/low beam bulbs)

Blue = City Light. (I did not hook this up as I did not have any use for it. I believe this is also their Daytime Running Light. This is paired with the low beam wire.)

White = High Beam (Only goes to the high beam bulb)

Black = Low Beam (Only goes to the low beam bulb)

Looking directly at the connector with the prongs facing you and the tab/clip on top, the wires are as follow.

Top Left = High Beam

Bottom Left = Power

Top Right = City Light

Bottom Right = Low Beam

Part 3: Splicing

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector03.jpg

My JDM Projectors did not come with the OEM wiring harness. This doesn't make it any more difficult as you could just splice the wires directly to your stock lighting wires, but I wanted the ability to remove my headlights if I ever needed too. These were purchased from Canadian Tire for $4 each. They didn't have a 3 or 4 prong harness and I purchased two different ones so I wouldn't confuse wiring.

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector05.jpg

This is pretty straight forward. It doesn't matter what wires you use on your new harness (if you chose to go this route) as long as they match up on the other end. If your JDM Projector lights came with the complete harness, you can skip this step and solder the wires to your stock wires.

Don't know how to solder? http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

Do the same on the stock wiring using picture 01 for reference.

Part 4: Turn Signal Fix

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector06.jpg

The JDM socket will not work with your USDM turn signals. It is a single filament bulb whereas the USDM ones are a dual filament. This fix requires an exacto knife and 30 seconds. There are four notches surrounding the bulb socket; three of them are the same size and align perfectly. The fourth one is slightly larger in the USDM side.

Take an exacto knife (BE CAREFUL!) or a dremel; whatever you prefer and take out like 1/16th of an inch on both sides. Along the red lines as shown in the picture. This will be done on your USDM socket, the JDM is of no use to you.

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector07.jpg

With the plastic notch shortened, it fits perfectly into the JDM Lights allowing your signals to work with your upgraded lights.

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector08.jpg

Three wire turn signal inside JDM head lights.

Review:

The bulbs that I got with these lights were crap so I will be buying some Xtra Visions tomorrow. The cut off is really nice though there isn't much light output due to the shit bulbs. The driver side projector lens can be adjusted horizontally a great deal to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. However, the passenger side is limited. Overall, this took me about one hour to do, it wasn't difficult at all, just soldering and attention to detail was time consuming.

Good luck and hope this helps!!

TOOLS

Sockets

Ratchets

Pliers

Wrenches

Extensions

Other things that come in handy are PB Blaster, a pipe to use as a cheater bar, assorted screwdrivers, vice grips, a c-clamp, etc.