rallispec

for those of you with hogzausts for a long time now - have you been under the car and checked out the rust status of the flanges or tubing?

I haven't done this mod - but was working on the car this past weekend attempting to remove my mufflers, fighting all the rust on the bolts (eventually got it).

anyhow, the flanges were all rusted up and in generally bad shape. This made me wonder how much worse it would have been had my exhaust been open there and water and road debris get in there and work from the inside out.

Am i needlessly worried for your sakes?

If I have both the Ipod and satellite plugged in (not both on) I get some very funky sounds....

that was my concern... right now i've got my selector switch out of the way and it works really well.... I may get a sleeker one down the road at some point - but i'm not too worried about it yet.

I just read the the specs for the griffen airclick - and it looks like it should still work with the jazzy thing....

It plugs in to the headphone jack on the top of the ipod (and has a passthrough so you can still plug in headphones), but it doesnt disrupt the audio ouput through the bottom apple connector s0 you should still be able to plug in the ipod connector to the bottom of the ipod. I was reading through the griffen manual and it says that in that configuration the volume control won't work. (the bottom connector provides a constant line out level) but you will have all other controls.

no soldering is required - I just taped my GLI to the back of the stereo.

Jazzy - I just installed my kit today - it is freaking AWESOME.

I ran the radio input cable to the center console - tucked a cheap audio switch in there - and ran one of the inputs back to my XM commander unit, and the other input is left open for my MP3 player.

everything works great - no noise or volume issues at all with the XM unit or my MP3 player.

I'm looking at something like this for an audio selector switch:

2-Way Audio Switch-Box for iPod/MP3/CD/PC

http://rsk.imageg.net/images/pixel.gif

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2131060&cp=&pg=1&searchSort=TRUE&searchSort=TRUE&sr=1&retainProdsInSession=1&retainProdsInSession=1&y=13&y=10&origkw=audio+switch&kw=audio+switch&x=15&x=12&s=A-StorePrice-RSK&parentPage=search

wow man - that came quick... Maybe i'll get a chance to install it this weekend.

(BTW - it makes me sick seeing how simple this thing is.... I paid how much for some capicitors and a handfull of resistors???!!! haha...)

on another note - has anyone come up with a good solution for using this board for multiple inputs (satellite radio and an ipod for example)... will a simple 'Y' miniplug adapter work.. (realizing that if i had the ipod on and the radio at the same time i'd hear them both)

thanks again jazzy!

I just found out yesterday (maybe I'm a little slow...) that the Australian market Legacy comes with the headlights cleared from the factory.

I wonder what it would cost to buy those headlights, and if they'd fit the USDM cars.

they should fit fine -- not sure how much it'd cost though. Can't be cheap.

for anyone who cares ---- a year and a half after clearing my headlights with no problems --- suddenly i've got moisture in my drivers side light...

has anyone else had this happen after a long period of not having prolems??? I'm not sure if my seal just broke down or what happened, but hopefully i'll see how moisture got in there when take everything apart.

techically, according to US safetey standards - cars are reqeired to have an amber reflector on the front side of the car, that reflects light even when the bulb is turned off... so clear bulbs that blink orange are only legal if you also have an orange reflector on the side of the car. (the new VW lineup is like this)

FOr what it's worth though, i had my Virginia state inspection today - and the car passed with cleared and blacked out headlights, no questions asked -- so unless you live in a really strict area you should be okay.

i'd like to see one of the several WRB legacy's that it looks like we've got here.

damN!

that sucks... at least you don't had the old housings as an option to reuse.. but yeah, that really sucks.

Curious if anyone else running around w/cleared lights for a while has run into problems with the law.

 

I'd hate to have Chuck Norris roundhouse kick me in the face for having cleared headlights.

not yet..

my big concern is passing safety inspection this summer.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14333

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14040

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13247

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10780

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10984

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10709

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3561

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2347

search. And welcome to the forum.

']Guys I cant see all the fuss OZ spec is already clear from factory with amber globe just need to change to silver with amber indicator... :)

JDM also come cleared.

I think that this is what put the idea in our heads. We saw how much better it looks on the non-usdm cars and went out to modify ours to achieve the same look.

how'd the rest of the clearing go?

I dont know how I would have fared if I had attempted to do this on my own the first time i did it. Being able to take of the bumper and get everything out and seperated with the help of a few members at one of the Install Meets made life so much easier.

This is definetly one of those projects where it's nice to have someone who's done it before around to help out. - however at the same it's not so overly complicated that it can't be done alone. Thankfully thier are tons of resources on this website to help out.

What kind of glue do you use to put them back together? Where from?

there is tons of glue left over from when you take the two halfs apart. Just reheat it with a heat gun and push the two parts together. If you're still worried, apply a little silicon afterwards to seal it up.

between the gauges being dim and the green light indicator on the dash, I usually notice the lights are on pretty quick. However i see no real problem with driving around with them on all the time anyways.

For the most part that is what i do, i just leave the lights on all the time and never turn them off. If it's bright outside, i push the snowflake button the make the gauges light up at full brightness.

as for a bell if the lights are left in the 'on' position after the car is turned off... i imagine some sort of relay and buzzer type thing could be custom made and rigged up - however i know nothing about what it would actually take to do it.

Anybody know a simple way to add a bell that goes "ding-dong" when you turn off the car with the lights on - you know - like most cars used to have? I've already disabled the DRLs but would like the reminder bell.

you can't leave the lights on in our cars without the key in the ignition.

If you have the lights turned on, as soon as you remove the key they automatically turn off, so their is no need for the bell.

It's kind of surprising that, for once, the US gets the better engine.

I like the 2.5liter as well -- but you could argue that the 2.0 is lighter and that offsets any power difference.