minuccims

Be careful about only modding the front with BBKs. Read up on brake bias. If you only add front BBK with better pads, more weight shifts forward. Plan to get some aggressive pads for the back to limit too much forward bias.

Buy a 5th gen kit. In the original post I state 100% compatible in that the Brembo and OEM calipers interface to the same fixure on the Legacy OEM brake lines and the SS lines in the kit. WRX rears are too short. 4th Gen Legacy are two pieces rather than one. 4th gen fronts fit, not sure about WRX fronts.

Going on the 4th year with Brembos. On of the best mods done and would get them again. Sure, it's a little extra cost. Brembos weigh less than OEM. Everyone always bitches about how much wheels weight and the need to reduce unsprung weight. Well, here's you're chance. I experienced OEM brake fade early in my LGT experience. Once was enough to go straight to Brembos. Peace of mind all the time. Have used $40 pads on the fronts that kicked ass relative to the OEM setup. Those pads performed the same from new to end of life. Can't say that for OEM setup. If you just spend a bunch on your new wheels and are putting more rubber on the road, if you are driving aggressively, the rotors will heat up, possibly above what the street pads can take. Brake modulation - check. It's kind of like having no throttle control until after a pro-tune. Finally new wheels with less spokes + OEM calipers = epic fail. Eyes go right past those sweet wheels and fixate on those ugly calipers. The rears will look way to small. Lowered your ride? Well, check out that ridiculous gap from the rotors to the inside of the rim. Embarrassment. So BBKs are performance peace of mind and bling support. If you do mods to go fast, why not have a mod plan to stop?

In the past, I may have perpetuated the statement that the 04-07 e-brake drum size is 170mm. But they are 190mm just like 2008+. The bracket is needed on the 04-07 to adapt to the bolts for our platform, the same as 08+ STI. WRX and 4th gens use a different 5x100 rear rotor so the 170mm drum works with thier e-brake. So it's critical to make sure you get the correct dual drilled rear rotor that has the 190mm drum.

OK, so here is what you are looking for: Front Calipers: 2004+ STI - direct bolt on Rears have two options. First is way way better. Rear Calipers Option1: 2008+ STI - direct bolt on Rears Caliper Option2" 2004-2007 STI with KNS V2 rear bracket Rotors: DBA makes dual drilled 5x114 and 5x100 rotors. KNS Brakes, OAKOS and Infamous are vendors here and will be more than happy to make sure you get the right parts. There are more dual drilled options for the Fronts than the backs. Pad options include Carbotech, Hawk, Stoptech and a few OEM type pads. Decide how aggressive you will be with the car. AutoX and occasional track day will push the pad type. This is an area where you can spend a little or spend a lot and never get the benefits of the pads. SS lines are 100% compatible. EDIT: You need a 5th gen kit; Brembo and OEM mate up to the same SS fixture. Use quality fluid that boils at higher temps. ATE 200 and Motul are two good ones. Edit: one more thing. GTEASER pay attention: I have gone though the screeching brakes from hell. Low speeds in populated areas is when it happens. I blamed the pads, but it is where you lube the pads, and with WHAT. Gone through 3-4 different lubes (or some all it brake grease). First DO NOT use anti-seize. The temps make this hard. Use Permatex 24125. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51nzdNAmQ8L.jpg

This may take a while ... I think it took the subie Indy about 3-4 hours but I may have installed a few other thinks as well. I think the KCA 375s need to be pressed in. So Perhaps less the 375s, 4-6 hours.

Or busted half shafts!!

Passed by a GGM 5th gen west of Utica on I-90E while traveling on I-90W. Maybe 11:15 this morning.

put another one on the other side.

Nice thread guys!! These work ups to more power has been a good end to my day. Thanks!!!!

Those look like the XXR 527s that I have for the summer (18x8.75 +35 offset) Those seem to poke out a little more. My guess is they are the 9.75 width. The picture does not look concave enough to be +20 offset. http://www.xxrwheels.com/xxr_527.shtml

Maybe research on how these hold up in NE climate over time. For example, the Piston rod is steel rather than stainless. Rebuild facility is close by in NH - definitely a plus.

Nice set of pics!!!

Will do. This one seemed to be shorter than most.

Just looked at the box to be absolutely sure. Yup, same part number.

I simply asked the tuner what BPV he suggested . Ended up with TurboSmart Impact to go with the Rx charge pipe.

They are not! Interested in the replacement pump options.

no one

Primative makes a great skidplate, including on for the rear diff. They also have light bars, but not sure if for the 5th Gen. http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/ http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/primitive-racing-skid-plate-196184p9.html?highlight=primative When it comes time to tune, several near you gone to Innovative Tuning in Buffalo. http://www.innovativetuning.com/

Very pleased with the Ostrum H7s and the HIR1s. Also ordered from Kenny at Candlepower.com.

The Romraider ECU definition for the 3.6R. Tune baby Tune.

Better pads will have a higher friction coefficient, and they stand up to higher rotor temps. This is a good first start but more rotor surface area/density is needed to really handle fade. For limited spirited driving, it may be enough for a 3.6R/LGT. The rotors and brake pads are so small on the 2.5i, it may be better but still fade. Back in 2010 after getting the LGT brakes to easily fade while just having fun in the twisties, my mod research took me right to the Brembos. A simple bolt-on improvement with little risk of adversely messing up distribution but bettering it. I skipped the intermediate step with keeping stock rotors/better pads. The Brembo calipers (as othe BKKs) weigh less as do the rotors, so unsprung weight is reduced.

The bias is to the front based on weight distribution of the car. 52/48 may be OK for a Porsche or BRZ but not our cars. Why have 48% of the braking power for 20-25% of the weight? Indicated before the OEM bias is closer to 74/26 (edit: 78/22). I tend to not disagree, but the STI Brembos are not random but rather a conservative change of a few % (edit 73/27). This is due to the simple fact that STI and LGT/3.6R have a very similar weight balance. I'm 100% sure the Brembos are a substantial improvement over OEM that keeps the weight distribution close to OEM. This is not a mod to take lightly and must be planned. It's a sizable $$ commitment that you want to be sure of. Bigger rotors are not necessarily better. More pistons are not necessarily better. A sized rotor to the clamping ability of the caliper is important. Being aware how the ABS will react is important. Too much initial grip and the ABS will sense the tires are locked up and the ABS will kick in early. Perhaps what will happen to the rears in the 52/48% distribution or if too aggressive pads are used. Tire grip is what will stress the brake system http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bbk-brake-bias-list-30088p14.html http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t56761-brake-bias-worksheet.html http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/

Wow, that is freakishly large. Seems like an added cost for rotors and pads. STI Brembo BBKs are 326x30mm fronts and 316x20mm rears. The calipers are lighter than stock as well. They survive winter conditions; some BBK calipers do not. The Brembos do limit wheel and offset choices. Some BBKs are not as thick and thus not as restrictive. Stoptech is an option to STI Brembos. Research their site, maybe call them.

Stopping distances are the same with the LGT/3.6R OEM and with BBKs, but just for the first two 80-0 stops, maybe halfway through the third. After that OEM fades and but BBK does not. If you only go BBK up front, then there will be a too much weigh shift forward. On OEM suspension, this is not a good thing. Stock distribution is closer to 74% front / 26% rear. There is an old thread either here or NASIOC that goes through the various distributions for older OEM and BBK setups. Small changes seem OK. I've put my LGT fronts on my 07 2.5i Outback. Huge improvement. For the LGT, I just played it safe and went Brembos all around and stiffer springs (now with Bilsteins). The Brembos move a little bias to the rear, it;s not around 72/28 distribution. Real world differences are quite noticeable. The car does not nose dive anywhere near the extent before the BBK (and suspension mods) Even better is the feeling that the rear "squats" down. It's evident weight is prevented from being transferred to the front of the car and hard braking is very controlled and stable. Brembos, suspension, increasing stance with offset wheels, and Stage II mods complement each other to bring balance to this platform. 04+ Fronts are bolt on. 08+ are bolt on with removal or minor mod to the dust shield. Rears <07 now have an adapter bracket.