quick4dr

funny thing is my 3in inlet fits great currently, I must Credit AZP and the team with the perfect magic touch there, I do run a 3mm spacer inlet isn't crushed at all. It is a WRX inlet, all my lines are routed cleanly.

 

to go rotated id have to fabricate new intercooler piping and im not looking to do that.

likely will gasket match the heads, possible pocket port.

 

with IAG block stage II, gaskets, fluids, tune (hi boost, low boost, and eco) $5,700. goal is to be good for WBM this june...

THE BUILD WILL BE AS FOLLOWS:

 

IAG Stage 2 block

Factory Heads

Blouch 1.5xtr 3in/ 10cm

Grimmspeed EWG w/ Tial 38mm VTA

200Octane; Killer Bee style manifold

Catless DP, single exit 3in CB

IAG TGV Deletes

IAG fuel system w/ Aero FPR

ID1000's

Walbro pump

Grimmspeed CAI

RacersX FMIC

IAG AOS Race

ClimberD Valvebody

Grimmspeed EBCS

Perrin 3in inlet

ARP hardware

 

goal is 23psi

 

Should I be looking into anything else?

 

is a head port worth it?

I thought about just feeding her oil, however I don't want to be left with a more expensive build down the road.

 

In my most recent driving oil consumption has increased dramatically so I know I must have lost a ring somewhere,

Im already equipt with climberD valvebody, the diff bushing are on my shelf. and as of now I have no shifting issues.

I do have a IAG AOS race set up currently and it will be transferred to new motor.

The 3in inlet fits solid on current set up, AZP worked magic there!

 

this is a 5eat car, so that's why my numbers don't jive with most numbers out there on 5spd/ 6spd cars.

 

also current 350/323 numbers are at 19psi Mikey and I kept her there to preserve her for an extra years DD. with built block, id imagine I can spin her to 24-25

 

speed density just intrigues me, it is a 4 season car however by next winter ill have a new daily for my business.

No input?

 

thanks fellas.

Well...

 

As the title states, my short block research and purchasing has begun.

 

likely will be IAG Stage 2 block

 

Clean and pocket my heads, no valve work or cams

 

bolt her all together with ARP hardware

 

top her off with current:

IAG deletes

IAG rails

ID 1000's

Blouch 1.5xtr 10cm/3in

Grimmspeed EBCS

Killer Bee style manifold

EWG tial 38mm

Catless DP

Custom Catback

 

 

goal is to spin her to about 22psi

 

perhaps 375whp 350wtq

 

would like to go speed density and maybe a e85 map for giggles

 

your thoughts or comments please...

Ive been averaging 17 with a 60 mile mostly highway commute, very hilly. usually use 3rd and 4th in manual mode otherwise she dives into 5th and lugs along.

 

19psi tune by Mikey, blouch 1.5xtr

 

likely going to have Tuning Alliance build me a fuel saver map

whiteline front bushings everywhere rear diff lockdown bushings, rallitek trans insert race spec, group N motor mounts and torque solutions pitch stop. car has NVH but feels rock solid, nothing I wouldn't do again

Im 1 yr deep with a 1.5xtr breathing 19psi at a tick over 3k. 127k on motor and trans. hexmods VB no hiccups. 350whp 338wtq. I don't launch. but don't drive too soft.

just picked up the brass diff bushing from the group buy, can anyone direct me to the install post?

127K 05 5EAT, Fluid changed every 20k since 60k trans filter done at 100k, hexmods since 80k. once in a blue moon she hiccups on upshift, if throttle input changes.

The car was etuned by Cryotune last yr. I decided I'm going to put some miles on the reset Ecu and see what happens. I'll report back shortly. Thanks guys.

 

any progress?

few more miles on my raxle axle and I love it.

popped radiator on my 5eat. ordered new aluminum Koyo unit. I run my trans with external cooler with derale plumbed in the climber D preferred routing.

 

any ill affects from not having a cooler built into radiator, and just having the external unit?

RAXLES sells an OEM axle, I don't know what he does with the cores, likely is rebuilding them and selling under another name, maybe?

Raxles.com all Subaru axles, OEM build Quailty

 

ask for Marty.

 

$189.95/ axle plus shipping. does not pre-charge CORE

More miles logged, Raxles is the JAM!! true OEM build quality, Marty knows Subaru axles and models very well. for F sake in the box, he includes a map to the most local UPS drop off for the core return, which btw he does not charge the core in advance.

 

Great Service and Product

Installed Raxles axle earlier this evening.

About 1hr start to finish. With 10 minutes searching for the control arm bolt that my buddy put down on the cart instead of the lift arm.

 

Old one factory original was shot, the second she popped from the diff the boot blew open and stunk. The outer joint was super floppy too with a hint of grind sound to it.

 

Raxles unit popped right in. No issues

 

Rather then pop the ball joint I unbolted the inner arm bolts and swung it Down and over. Plenty of room to work with.

 

 

EDIT:

 

WOW what a difference, after logging a few miles highway and local. my driveline vibration that I had is gone, and the horrible noise when taking swooping right hand bends or hard turns is gone.

 

Also replaced drivers caliper last night, and passenger 2 weeks ago. wow my brakes are back in action, the inner guts of the caliper were shot, torn boots, and piston boots, dirt and grime wedged in everywhere.

Just spoke with Marty at Raxles 1 new axle on the way to 10954 shipped $229.80

 

best price on Subaru I could find was $319.99 with a list price of $399.95

hexmods FTW! almost 40k on my F1 and shes flawless!

saw it all the time at when working at Acura, 08-12 MDX all the time, RL too.

havnt particularly heard about it in subarus, but I suppose it can really happen to any ignition given heavy enough keys

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my favorite way to mount it

that might be a squeeze, but id love to see if they fit!

Front most certainly. rear I might have to raise the coil a hair. but id imagine thatd be a sticky glue strip kind of ride.

I did the work myself with a little help on the front shaping from my friend that owns a local collision shop. Working on it a few nights a week it was off the road 2 weeks to get it done.

 

The rivets are Jeep Wrangler JK factory flare rivets.

The fenders came from here, they I belive start as Nissan flares that get trimmed up and a little molding to go Legacy.

 

I had a great time installing them. my goal was wide tire flat stance. 265/40/17 rides like a dream, and aren't wallet killers. -1 camber around, 0 toe, max caster. she rides rails