CBRRICH

Is the OEM Exhaust and mufflers still available?

My 05 stock pipes and mufflers are disintegrating so I have to get a new cat back system. The resonator was removed (rusted out) and that made it a bit louder but totally fine. A stock system is going to be~$900 but the Xforce caught my eye due to price ($500). I'm sure it will be louder but my biggest concern is highway drone. Drone can be affected by other modifications (downpipes and cats for instance). Anyone installed the Xforce catback on a stock (no change to turbo, downpipe or cats) GT wagon (or GT sedan) and how was the cabin noise in general and in particular drone at highway speeds?

Did some research, looks like a 2005-2007 GT wagon or sedan should work.

Do you still have the OEM mufflers?

Looking for an OEM midpipe and mufflers in good condition. This is for a 2005 GT wagon so systems from a wagon would be a preference. Thanks!

My 05 stock pipes and mufflers are disintegrating so I have to get a new cat back system. The resonator was removed (rusted out) and that made it a bit louder but totally fine. A stock system is going to be~$900 but the Xforce caught my eye due to price ($500). I'm sure it will be louder but my biggest concern is highway drone. Drone can be affected by other modifications (downpipes and cats for instance). Anyone installed the Xforce catback on a stock GT wagon (or sedan) and how was the cabin noise in general and in particular drone at highway speeds?

I'm in Reading MA.

I just had my LR sensor throw a code. I have replaced two of these over the years (LR,RR) but I have forgotten if there is a way to troubleshoot the sensor. I tested for continuity thinking the sensor is just a coil of wire and the hub has a magnet that would create a "pulse" as it goes by but got nothing (open circuit). Anyone know if this is a correct way to electrically check the sensor?

Thanks for the reply. I completed the fluid change. One observation was that when bleeding the clutch, the clutch pedal would almost drop to the floor even if you only depressed it half way, requiring pulling it up. Any idea why? A related question: I had my clutch replaced some years ago and I noticed that the force required to push down the pedal was greatly reduced. After changing the clutch fluid the pedal became considerably harder. I remember having the same issue with the fluid change then (pedal dropping to the floor). Any thoughts about what is happening here?

I'll give it a shot and see if you think this would be a correct procedure: 1. Remove fluid from the reservoir with a syringe. 2. Wipe out the reservoir with a lint free cloth to remove any dirt/debris. 3. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid. 4. Attach a hose to Master bleeder. 5. Have someone slowly press clutch pedal down then open bleed screw on Master then close after a few seconds and retract clutch pedal. 6. Repeat until clean fluid free of bubbles comes out. 7. Remove hose from Master and attach hose to Slave bleeder. 8. Have someone slowly press clutch pedal down then open bleed screw on Slave then close after a few seconds and retract clutch pedal. 9. Repeat until clean fluid free of bubbles comes out. 10. Torque bleed screws to 5.8 ft-lb 11. Check for leaks and road test. Comments?

So, a new term to me: "Air Locking the Master". I assume it means trapping air downstream of the plunger that you are unable to remove from the bleed screw on the slave? My 05 GT has a bleed screw on the master, this does not show in the manual. The instructions for bleed/replacement do not mention it either. The procedure for fluid change/bleed is pretty standard using only the slave bleed. Can anyone give a step-by-step procedure for changing the fluid in the clutch taking into consideration the (2) bleed screws available to assure complete fluid change and not trapping any air in the system? Thanks for any help you can give.

I just had the same thing happen to my 05 wagon. Found the Blue/White wire on the right harness (aft looking forward) broken. Snaked a thicker, more flexible wire (lamp chord) through the boot and soldered it to either end and that fixed the problem.

One thing to add for you folks that don't need antifreeze for cold weather, you may want to use it for margin in hot weather because a 50/50 Ethetlene glycol also elevates the boiling point of water about 11 degrees. From: https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/benefits/no-overheating/ "Water turns into steam at 212°F. Mixing traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze with water in a 50-50 ratio increases the boiling point to 223°F, which is close to the operating temperature of an engine." Systems are pressurized which also raises the boiling point. I guess it is a trade off for more efficient cooling vs boil over margin.

My 05 GT has about 170K miles and the steering rack started leaking fluid out the top of the valve assembly probably 10K ago. I could have kept putting fluid in it but decided to somehow fix it. I did some research and found these options: New rack is ~$610, a Mavin rebuild was about $500 (the only rebuild anyone seemed to trust), Junkyard rack ~ $100, replace the valve assembly $115 (shipped), or rebuild the assembly ~$30. Did not want to invest $600 in this car and could not find a used rack that did not have high mileage or was rusted to death (thanks Subaru for a steel bodied steering rack that has to live in the most rust pone part of the car). Maybe in Tuscon I would have lucked out but not here in the NE. Decided I would just tackle the problem directly. Seals were cheap enough but then you needed some special tools. Maybe could do without but I figured the easiest was to get the valve assembly. I have a 34110AG06A steering rack (P/L also says a G05 is possible) and Shaun at Subaru Parts Warehouse confirmed the valve assembly was a 34113AG05A (there is also listed a G04, probably goes with the G05 rack). I would validate the part numbers yourself just in case. You then need some incidentals: Dust cover 34136AG00A Base O-ring 34192AG01A O rings for the supply/return pipes 34192AG04A and G05A Recommended Tools: Flare nut wrenches Crows feet Process (with recommendations): 1. Jack up the car and put on stands, remove the front wheels, and split the tie rod ends but leave the nuts holding them up until you are ready to remove the rack 2. Remove the splash panel 3. Soak the supply/return connections, steering universal bolt and all the other bolts in penetrating oil and let it soak in (remember what I said about this being the rust prone part of the car) the biggest fight I had was getting the high pressure connection apart. It is really hard to get to and was frozen solid making every wrench flat a struggle. 4. Remove the bracket that covers the steering 5. Remove the bolt in the steering universal at the steering box input 6. Disconnect the supply and return lines (if you can get to them, I disconnected the return line to the "cooling fins" and removed the bracket that holds the lines and that gave me more flexibility to work the fittings once the rack was partially out, I hope you are luckier than me) 7. Remove the (6) bolts that hold the rack in and wiggle the steering universal free (you may have to spread the clamp slightly, I did) 8. Undo the castle nuts and work the rack to one side to clear the sway bar and then back the other way to remove. You could remove the Sway bar and it will drop straight down but that was extra work. Now the Rack is on the table: 1. Match mark the adjusting bolt and remove the lock nut and bolt. 2. Remove the two bolts that secure the assembly and loosen the (4) hose lines at the valve and "spring" them enough to get the valve assembly out. 3. Despite researching the forums and the Internet, I could not find a definitive replacement for "Valiant Grease M2" so I opted for Valvoline Semi Synthetic Durablend Grease (I'll probably burn in "Subaru Hell" for not using "genuine grease") and greased up the locations on the Valve assembly noted in the manual. I also added some to each of the teeth in the rack and the backside as well. 4. Install the o-ring and dust cover, insert the assembly, pop the lines in place and torque the fittings using crows feet. 5. Go through the torque procedure on the adjusting nut (I sealed it with Honda bond, sorry again Subaru) but I found it pretty much brought me back to the match marks. 6. I tested the drag by scaling some photographs of the ST and came up with a 6.4" lever arm and a digital luggage scale that I checked for accuracy. I used a vise grip that was the right "lever arm" and the scale. It came in around 2# in the middle and the ends so I was satisfied. 7. Replace the two o-rings on the supply/return lines. Back in the Car: 1. Snake the rack back into place and connect the the supply/return lines). Having the supply/return line loose made it easier connecting the lines. 2. Connect the tie rod ends and straighten the wheels as close as possible. 3. Line up the steering wheel (you may need to secure it or have someone help). 4. Connect up the steering universal and push the rack into place (mind the bellows, there are some bolts that stick out that can damage them) 5. Secure the rack with (6) bolts. 6. Fill the system. I was unsuccessful in getting the rack to fill any by just cycling it from side to side probably 50 times, not sure why. As a desperate move, I attached a vacuum hand pump to the return hose and that pulled fluid though the system! Maybe the brand new valve assembly was "stuck" and need some coaching to open the first time? Anyway I was able to get the system filled, flushed it with a quart of fluid before reattaching the return line, then started the engine and worked out any air like the videos say. At this point you could finish the job but my experience was I could not get the steering wheel aligned on the first shot so I would save the bracket for once that has been accomplished. Alignment: 1. Snug up the steering rack bolts and the universal bolt, tighten and cotter pin the tie rod ends, install the front wheels and get the front wheels back on the ground. 2. Drive the car forward and back until the wheels are straight and inspect the steering wheel position. There are 36 teeth on the valve assembly shaft which means each tooth is worth 10 degrees. Use a protractor (or something similar) to measure the angle and figure how many teeth you need to change it or just make a guess. 3. Jack up the car, be careful not to disturb the front wheels from "straight". 4. Match mark the valve assembly shaft to universal to help reclocking. 5. Remove the (6) bolts holding in the rack and remove the bolt from the universal. 4. Pull the rack down enough to free the universal, reclock it as many teeth as necessary, and secure the rack with one of the long bolts. 5. Check the steering wheel, it should be straight, if not go down and reclock it again. 6. Once happy with the results, Install and torque the (6) mounting bolts and torque the steering pinch bolt. 7. Install the bracket and the splash shield and you are done. Hopefully I did not leave anything important out, if so just ask or add some comments to help. Best of Luck!

For what it is worth, the wagon is ~65lbs heavier than the sedan so if the shocks/struts fit I think they would be fine. I did IBOC springs and Bilstien shocks 100K miles ago, still working well. Love the shocks/struts but the struts were a PITA to install because you need separate top mounts for the Spec B.

What is the green connector for?

Is there a way to check contiunity to each of the elements before ripping the seat apart? My back heater is not working (but the bottom is) I would like to confirm the heater element is dead before going though that surgical procedure (awesome as it was). Is it possible just to disassemble just the back?

http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/report.gif http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/misc/sendpm.gif http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/misc/find.gif http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/quote.gif http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/multiquote_off.gif http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/post_thanks.gif http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/qreply.gif Quote: Originally Posted by SlickSpur http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif That's what I run, and I like the drive they give me. I do notice a strange noise coming from the rears when I pull out of my work parking lot. I take a left to merge onto traffic, and there must be a bump there or something because it only happens there. Same with my driveway. Anytime I'm turning and hit a bump, they make a rather strange noise. If I get back there and put some weight on the trunk to force them to compress and spring back, there is no sound. Anyone else notice this? Do you have an aftermarket sway bar. It sounds like the kind of noise a swaybar might make when it is torqued abruptly. The bar is a Rallitek but the sound I heard was more like "sqeaking " from the forward buswhing, maybe it sounds different when the shock is reattached and it is comming into the cabin.

I get a "clunk" noise from my rears but I changed swaybars (rallitek), shocks (Bistiens) , and springs (Eibach) so I am not sure the cuprit. I did disconnect the bottom of the shock and it sounded like it may be comming from swing arm bushing (on the forward end), not sure. I notice it most when I have weight in the rear (primarily passengers). Any one else had issues?

I went with the Rallitek Swaybar (rear only) Eibach Springs and Bilstiens. I like the setup a lot for a daily drive. Greatly improved roll/squat without giving up anything noticable in ride. Understeer reduced to more neutral cornering. I'm sure ther are better setups if you really want to get everything you can out of the car but this is the best compromise for me. Resulting ride height with 1/2 plus 3/8 spacers was about where the car was when I bought it with stock suspension which is slightly lower than spec. See my earlier posts in this thread for more details. Just keep in mind you need different top hats for the front and spacers in the rear to make this work.

I have Eibach springs, a Rallitek rear swaybar, and Bilstiens. From what I remember, the Eibach spring fronts were slightly stiffer and the rears were the same as stock but keep in mind these are progressive springs so as you loaded them up they got stiffer without sacrificing anything in ride. I'm pretty happy with the results.

Dang, I can't find it but somewhere out in this great site someone posted a nice table with all the springs, thier lowering height relative to stock, and thier spring rates, including if they were progressive. I'd swear I saved it somewhere but for the life of me I can't find it. Can anyone else help?

Stick with nominal, that would be a new/new comparison. Just a nit on measuring:It's a little esier if you put the end of the tape against the wheel well. The Eibachs are suposed to drop 1" front and 7/8" rear. Looks like you measured a drop of 1.25 front and 3/4 to 1" rear (sedan/wagon). Remember, these are new springs. Sounds like you are there.

Let's try this. The stock ride height per the manual is 15" from the wheel arch to the center of the hub for the fronts. The rear is 14.4" for the sedan and 14.8 for the wagon. These dimensions are +.47 and -.94 (quite a spread, huh?). What are you measuring?