Cincy05LGT

New wheels and meats for this season. 17x9 et45 wrapped in BFG Rival S. Give me all the grips. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Been awhile since I've posted on here. The car is still running strong, though it only sees weekend use. I have a few things lined up for it this year in hopes of motivating me to get out to more autox and track day events. Here's the list of maintenance items and mods I've done or plan to do: Done: Enkei RPF1 17x9 et45 BFG Rival S Rolled fenders and trimmed fender liners KW V2 coilovers Need to do: Mevotech Al SpecB LCA Whiteline front LCA bushings Whiteline ALK Camber plates Upgraded RSB, endlinks, & reinforcing brackets Whiteline rear camber bolt/eccentric bushing Performance corner balance alignment Steering shaft damper coupling delete 2015+ STi steering rack Replace PS pump Fix broken 3port EBCS bracket KB short shifter Once I started typing, the list grew quicker than I thought... Jayson Replace AC Condenser Recharge AC Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Pm'd Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Having the same issue. At first I left the rubber spring seat in place which caused even bigger problems, the spring actually started contacting the body of the shock tube. I'm not hearing any noises now after removing the rubber seat, but I agree the tophats do not seat solidly into the KW top seat. Tempted to go aftermarket Cusco or similar rear tophats. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

PS pump o-ring update complete, hopefully no more seepage. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

While very nice, those aren't cheap. Way more than what I need. I'm between the Whiteline Com-C and Cusco pillow ball. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

New wheel and tire setup is on. 17x9 RPF1 with 245-40R17 BFG Rival S. Rolled the rears, and trimmed inner fender liners to remedy the rubbing. The grip is unreal already, can't wait to get a performance alignment and get on track, which reminds me, I need more camber. Recommendations on camber plates to grab an extra degree? I'm running KW V2's on OEM tophats. I'm guessing Cusco is the best... Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Started playing around with btssm tonight since I recently flashed a slightly hotter etune. Went for a few pulls and noticed I'm undershooting target boost by 1.5psi. Fuel trims look good so I *think* it's not an air leak. Maybe needs more WGDC? No pulled timing, but IDC is hitting 101% (oem injectors) and it's been pretty warm out. Guess I should probably think about doing injectors, already have a DW65c pump. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Had a great performance review and got the promotion. Feeling pretty good. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Flashed a new map and went data logging. Woo boost!

It's that time of year again... and my noise is louder than ever. Just re-read this entire thread to refresh . I'm going to bite the bullet and order a new propshaft as I also have the ring of grease on my heatshield and some minor slop at the rear universal. I'm planning on draining and scoping my new(used) R160 for a quick health check. Here are my current relevant mods: Stg3 16G 330whp JDM Legacy 2.0GT 5mt Trans (4.111 Final Drive) USDM R160 diff replaced March 2018 Grp N Engine Mounts Grp N Trans Crossmember TiC Transmission Bushings KWV2 Coilovers (unchanged from preset height) Prothane Rear Diff Front Cradle Bushings - 161609 Prothane Rear Differential Subframe Bushing Inserts - 161610 Dunlop Wintermaxx snow tires on oem wheels Seems I'm only missing the Spec B trailing arm bushings and new propshaft. Other thoughts: 1)Has anyone investigated the possibility of VLSD preload at higher power levels being an issue? Maybe the R160 just sucks and R180 really is the fix? 2) Has anyone successfully recorded this sound on video/audio? I have a GoPro with external mic, and I'm tempted to go out and try to record although my exhaust is incredibly loud and may drown it out. -Jayson Edit: I recorded some driving tonight, didn't sound as pronounced as usual probably because it's only 47F. What was very loud though was decel driveline backlash and some speed dependent popping creaking noises while turning under light throttle. Also, letting the clutch out while coasting produces an audible clunk from the rear. I did two runs with the mic in the cabin, and two runs with the mic in the trunk area. I'd love to find a safe way to locate the mic near the differential, time to grab the zip ties.

Haha not my finest moment. I'll be doing the evolution school next year to tighten the loose nut behind the wheel. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Currently completely stock sidefeeds. I think the plan will be to use as many inexpensive oem parts as possible to go topfeed with ID1000's. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Subaru Outdoor Experience. Dayton, Ohio Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I haven't done much with the car this summer, but I'll be tweaking a few things with the suspension over the winter as well as collecting odds and ends to go top feed and FF E85. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Anybody around these parts anymore? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Neato.

Switched back to winters today. Bring on the snow.

No biggie. It was more of a shakedown for the car since I needed to develop confidence again and get some seat time. Despite heavily worn and heat cycled RE11's, I placed 2nd in Street Modified. There were a few spots on track I never quite figured out the best line, and they ended up being costly. All in all it was a great day and the car performed well. I'm still working on keeping both hands planted on the wheel, though a quicker rack will help with this. My quickest run: My "best" run until the last corner...

I just had to do some serious emergency troubleshooting. Car would barely idle and afr was super lean. Checked all over for vacuum leaks and smoke tested, found nothing. Turns out the ECU was pulling fuel due to previous wastegate issue. Ecu reset, runs fine. Damn computers.

Rallysport Direct sent me the wrong heat shield which I unknowingly installed last week and it seemed to kinda fit, but definitely didn't feel quite right. As it turns out, the wastegate arm was contacting the heat shield and causing me to overboost. It probably also contributed to the arm popping off the flapper. During a backroads blast I saw 1.6 bar on the gage while I'm only tuned for 1.3 and it felt INSANE. Luckily nothing bad happened and it didn't lean out on stock injectors. I have an old grimmspeed shield on now and everything is good, so looks like I'm selling a COBB 04-07 STi heat shield.

Stainless safety wire ftw! Gotta love an easy fix.

That's the plan. I need to get registered. Hopeto see you there! SM usually runs first heat.

At WOT my boost gage was pegged at 0 bar. Not sure if maybe the 8cm housing allows more bypass. Were you totally (mechanically) disconnected, or connected and running spring pressure? The supplied spring with this turbo is 14psi.

Crisis averted! I took another careful look and found the wastegate arm disconnected from the flapper. Easy fix.