slvrlegacygt

i read the first page couldnt really sit down and read all 39 pages but post 570 caught my attention unfortunately today and not yesterday or the day before when i was doing my plugs. I was able to do the passenger side no problemo the driver side was a little tougher i was able to get the front driver side but not the rear, if i knew about removing that air hose out of the way this probably wouldnt be an issue. i took it to a shop to get the last one out and after i left the shop i had a a check engine light. Was no big deal to me at the time, i have the accessport so cleared them. The codes i cleared was P2109 for throttle postion sensor and P0638 for throttle actuator control. First time i cleared them both went away continued driving it lightly to run a few errands notice the idle was a little irregular it eventually became normal, so i figured everything was fine and it was just getting used the newere spark plugs and maybe relearning since the battery was disconnected for awhile. So i finish taking care of a few things im on my way home i figured let me try to data log a little bit just to make sure everything is all right. while i was logging i decided to drive a little spirtited on the road i was on i did about 45mph just to see if it felt any difference, it felt normal i start going up a hill the car immediately goes into limp mode and while i have the throttle pressed the car isn't moving anywhere i tried pulling over but couldn't so my rear end is sitting half on the road, the idle starts jumping the motor started rumbling left to right so i shut down the car asap. check the codes again and only one code appears this time its the P2109 code tried about ten times to clear it didnt work so. I tried to start it a few times to see if i could at least move it more onto the side of the road and out of the way. Push the gas and nothing, it did act differently everytime i started the car it would rumble sometimes other times the idle would be irratic. I didn't let it run long i would see what it did then shut it immediately. i ended up rolling it backwards down the hill to a nearby parking lot and left it there to be towed.

My car ran as smooth as glass before trying to change plugs. It's modified Stage 2. itsme fmic, infamous tune through acessport and i changed the restictor pill that's all of my mechanical mods.

Now my question is has someone had an experience like this after chaning out plugs? I looked up the codes and the the only thing that i found was like 3 or fours years old. Could it be a sensor or something that could of been disconnected by the shop that i wouldn't normally see also they disconnected my fuel lines not that would make a difference since they are reconnected and im getting fuel and idk why they removed them in the first place. Any thoughts or suggestions are very much appreciated.

You do not have to remove the radiator to do a T-belt, only remove the fans and place the wiring connectors out of the way. After that the accessory belts are straightforward and you do not have to remove any accessories to access the timing cover.

 

A little trick to remove the crank pulley is not to use a pulley holder. Instead use the torque of the starter motor to break the bolt loose since it's on at around 120ft.lbs. Use the socket (22mm iirc) and a breaker bar to turn the engine until the end of the breaker bar touches the floor. Then bump the key and turn the engine over. The pulley will clockwise but the bolt will stay stationary and break loose from the torque. Reinstallation will be easy with an MT car since you can lock it in 5th gear and pull the e-brake. An auto trans will require a prybar to hold the teeth of the flexplate when the pulley is torqued.

 

The T-belt is easy enough, just make sure you line up your timing marks at TDC before you take the old one off. Take a picture to remind yourself incase one of the pullies gets bumped off. I recommend replacing the tensioner and do not compress the piston quickly as the silicone fluid can leak and cause failure. Using a small cotter pin to hold the piston it is the best tool. After the belt is in correctly and the tensioner is bolted down, pull the pin out and the piston will extend outward and apply tension to the bolt. Make sure you crank the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything is in time.

does putting it into fifth gear change if you have a six speed?

A while back I read a thread in which a couple of pro tuners in the Allentown/Bethlehem area were discussed. One was recommended and there were warnings to avoid the other. I think Epic was one but I can't recall the other and now I can't locate the thread.

 

I'm anticipating an upgrade to an STi UP and a BNR 16g turbo so will be needing to retune my car afterward. I am likely to do the change at my parents' near Binghamton, NY because I have no garage to use in SE PA, but have been unable to locate any tuners closer than 3 hours away. Allentown would thus be the closest. I'm also considering going with an Infamous e-tune but want to explore all my options.

 

I'm looking to do a good DD tune so I don't need anything special other than a good measure of competency. Any help in locating a tuner (especially in the northeast part of PA or NY southern-tier) or opinions on my options would be greatly appreciated.

There is Epic Tuning in Bethlehem/allentown, Evans tuning and Area 1320 that's the few i can think of from the top of my head. Epic Tuning i think focuses more on swaps more than anything else. Evans Tuning is supposedly an amazing tuner, i know of people traveling across a few states just to get a tune from him i think he focuses mostly on hondas but he does tune everything i think. Area 1320 i dont know too much about it but they are supposed to be good for subaru guys, i know one of the salesman where i bought my car goes there and swears by them and this guy has the fastest baja in the world not literally, but it's fast. Actually you can check out his baja on Tristatetuners .com and he goes by bajarob.

forum name/screen name: slvrlegacygt

city, State: Stroudsburg. PA

year of car (by vin): 2007

Model (LGT, SpecB, etc.): GT

Body Style (Sedan or Wagon): Sedan

color (as official as possible): DGM

i just wanted to post my list so i can keep track of my spending before it really gets out of hand

Cobb accessport used $475

bosal 1.5 catback $375

ERZ/CNT Hi flow Downpipe $300

Mode short shifter $165

Hid lights $93

tints $180

MSI/eibach springs $250

itsme FMIC $800

perrin front sway bar $159

ravspec from lip $235

nav unlock while in motion $free

Drl delete $free

painted Grill myself about $20

total as of now $3,052

Yesterady a DGM LGT maybe Spec b with tints on route 3 in clifton. i was the spec b zooming by.

that was definately me I always keep an eye out I can't believe I didn't notice another spec b, I did spot a crazy white sti though

If it was a 05, that blue GT could have been me, IC/Yonkers to White Plains, all the time.

 

Is there a some kind of nod you guys give to other forum members ?

it could of been an 05 it was definately the 05-07 model. If it was you i drove next to you for a second to say whats up then we played keep up for a bit.

Saw a blue gt with no spoiler and single muffler heading towards white plains on monday

spotted an 06 spec b on the nautical mile in long island on Tuesday

me again

You seem to be all over the place your car looks nice and I did like that rear spoiler of yours

whos 2.5 is this?? saw it last night at the palisades mall.. where did you get the rear window spoiler!!!

 

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saw this legacy today on mosholu pkwy