Ghionw
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Posts posted by Ghionw
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Of course my APv2 doesn't have the 'AF Sen 3 Voltage' monitor.
Strangely enough, the code cleared itself last week and stayed cleared for a few days and returned. And then it cleared itself again yesterday.
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Thanks for this. I am in traffic most of my commute but I will see if I can get some readings at 50-70 mph. Hopefully my APv2 has the required monitor.
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It shouldn't overboost with the catted dp, the ebcs is up to the tuner some like the control of the aftermarket ones better. Fuel pump would be worthwhile if your due for a filter change anyway, every 60k miles. I plan on doing mine around the time I do my timing belt and clutch.
Yea, I did my timing belt/water pump end of last spring and then my clutch fork went shortly after. So I opted for the South Bend Stage 2.
Thanks. Going for a simple setup.For reference, I have an invidia catted downpipe, magnaflow catback, and bpv. I had pre-stage 2-tune overboosting issues (likely more due to the bpv than the downpipe).I exceed the capabilities of my southbend stage 2 with my stage 2 tune... so you don't need anything more than those three parts if you don't want it.
What are your short and long term goals for the car?Are you keeping it for a while? Are you willing to blow it up and build it up again? Are you hard on the car?
Building these cars can get expensive real quick. I just keep throwing money at mine. It was once my daily (for a very short period of time) and is now my garage queen summer car.
It is my daily driver. I am willing to keep the car but I am not looking to build a high power car. A simple stage 2 setup would probably be the extend of my mods until some time way down the road. I really don't want to blow it up, which is why I would go with a conservative stage 2 setup/tune. More about reliability and smoothness over power.
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If it overboosts, I'll probably go back to the stock exhaust. Do I need upgraded fuel pump? And is the EBCS needed for a mild setup?
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What exhaust are you using now? That seems to be where the overboost comes in. The stock midpipe really helps keep the turbo in check.
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Invidia catback
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I was mostly kidding, but now I hope you replaced your clutch fork, those have seemed to fail quite suddenly especially with an aftermarket clutch.
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Mine did fail and my housing was even damaged in the process. So, yea, had to replace that as well.
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Not really, a tune is another $4 to 500. Then all the other mods you will need. The bpv, ebcs, clutch, clutch fork, tsk-3 kit...head gaskets, new shortblock...[emoji2369][emoji1787]
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lol. Well, I already replaced my clutch last year with a South Bend stage 2, or was it stage 1. I'd have to double check. I have the racer X charge pipe with a bpv. For a mild tune, what else would I need for supporting mods? Not looking to maximize power.
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Sounds like stage 2 is more cost effective
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Good Afternoon guys,
I have a 10' GT that is throwing a P0420. I switched the O2 sensors when it first happened a few years back, but now it is coding again. My mechanic said it is more than likely that the Cat is on it's way out. My question is, should I simply get a new Cat (~$1100) or get a new catted downpipe ($600 Invidia) and go from there? I've read that most have overboost issues when they upgrade their downpipe. Looking for advice/suggestions.
Currently OTS Stage 1 with an Invidia catback.
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The D Forces were on my short list when choosing wheels. Ended up with the Raijins though. Nice wheels.
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I have mono brand Audison setup (Audison Voce 3 way speakers + AV10 sub, Audison Bit One, Amplifiers LRX 2.9 + LRX5.1K), Signat + Cordial twisted speaker wires, AVG 0 pure copper wire, Audison distributors & fuse boxes. Most of components reused from my previous setup, I just added some new to make it one brand.
I love the 3 way setup. I need some custom work like that done in my car. If I ever get around to it, my plan is to put a 12 or 15 in the spare tire well. Running 18x9.5 as rendered my spare useless anyways.
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This is what I bought. Originally it was $62.88, but I had a $15 Amazon coupon. Interesting, it comes with two caps, one smooth and one matte finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RVJ6JSN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ohhh, those are foldable. I would have to replace both side for symmetry.
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Finally got around to buying a replacement drivers side door mirror. I crunched it against the garage door opening a few months ago. Going to swap the painted cap since it was not damaged.
I need to do the same. What did it cost?
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Northern Virginia. Mid Atlantic area at large.
I'm in Atlanta. Let me know if you're interested and I can send you pics.
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Where is NOVA?
I have a set sitting in my garage as well.
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Purportedly, the VLEDs are straight drop in, which was one of the major drawpoints for me over HIDs. Many people will denounce the throw abilities of LEDs in Halogen projectors as inferior to HID, but I've never had either, so I can't really comment on a comparison. I do know several people who's opinions on parts/upgrades I highly respect that have sprung for the VLEDs and absolutely praise their quality and performance. I also don't exactly live in a rural area, most everywhere I drive is pretty well lit already.
As for the high beams, multiple reasons:
-To change out both, it'd be double what I spent at the moment on the lows, and I NEED the lows as I currently don't have them, highs aren't a necessity right now.
-Yeah, I'll probably drop the bumper to do it, I've been having a pop-out issue near the headlight anyways, so would probably be beneficial to make sure all the clips are properly lined up again.
-The high beam bulbs are actually way easier to access than the lows with the bumper still on. At most, you have to remove the intake funnel.
-I'm still holding out on a solution that will let me have proper DRL functionality with an LED hi-beam. VLEDs came out with a module last year that would let them run at half-power for DRL and full power for hi-beam, but they pulled it after a short time and said they we re-designing it. Still waiting on that.
-I honestly rarely ever use my hi-beams. So just not the biggest need.
Right now, I have mismatched headlights from an accident (I had painted retrofitted headlight). I have a new replacement to put in to match the one that was replaced after the accident. I haven't done it as I am 1. lazy and 2. haven't decided what type of bulb I am going with. I don't have the time or money to do another retrofit, so I am either going to go the LED route or halogen. Leaning more towards LED since I prefer the look over halogens but don't want to deal with any modifications. I just want to drop them in.
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Both of my low beams went out within the last two days, so I guess I'm forced to upgrade. Driver's side went Saturday night, and passenger followed suit last night.
Going with the 6K VLED Micros. Now the only bulbs left on my car that will be non-LED are my high beams.
I've been thinking of making the LED low beam jump but haven't done much research on it. Are there any modifications to be made to get it to work without issue?
Why not do the high beams while you are in there? Assuming you are dropping the bumper.
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Picked up a new head unit to break up the monotony some lol.
Audi love for life
You sir, need help. lol
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I replaced mine with a Denso one, but NTK is the supplier for Subaru.
Only have about 6-7k miles on my new a/f sensor, but so far so good.
Was it this one?
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Any recommendations on AF/Front O2 sensor? Or should I stick with the one from Subaru?
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Bought her an hour of diagnostics at the dealership for bad gas mileage.
Back story: The car threw a code a couple of months ago for the rear O2 sensor which has since been changed, but after that, the car started giving bad gas mileage. When I used to get around 330 miles, I am getting around 285. They said it is possibly the AF sensor. Is that the same as the front O2 sensor? If not, where is it located and what is the level of difficulty to change it?
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Pics don't show.
In for pics.
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Recommend any good ones? Chinese food in Georgia SUCKS bawls.
I went to a Chinese Jamaican spot years go. It was off of Victoria Park and Sheppard I think. By the bank on the corner (Either TD or CIBC). Friendships I think it was called.
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Looking good Delta.
I am heading your way in October to see some family in North York/Scarborough. I was thinking of driving but the 14+ hours drive isn't looking like fun, so that's a no go.
Outside of this forum, I've seen maybe 2 other 5th gen LGTs. It would be good to see another in the wild.
Need Cat/downpipe related advice
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
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I'll check.
The code cleared itself. I didn't reset the ECU. But I've seen it clear itself and come back, so I'll continue to monitor it.