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Penguin

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Posts posted by Penguin

  1. How much of this might be a consequence of 'limp-wristing'? Of thinking of the 9x19 being such a relatively light-recoiling round that a good firm grip could be relaxed a bit?

     

    Serious question that I should have asked before.

     

     

    Norm

     

    Limp wristing is not the issue. The issue is you have a relatively short stubby little loaded cartridge and you're handling it from a magazine with a body long enough front to rear to handle .45 ACP. The pistol itself has a frame and magazine well made to handle .45 ACP as well. The slide reciprocates enough distance to eject and load a .45 ACP. The 9x19 cartridge in anything but a perfectly executed 1911 finds itself with a less well controlled feeding operation with the extra jump to the feed ramp, and less than ideal feeding geometry when it gets there. Resulting in failures to feed. Then you also get fun failures to eject sometimes because the ejector sits back where it would for a .45 ACP and the extractor has to control the shorter case for even longer after the front of the case clears the breech end of the barrel on extraction. If the case gets discombobulated here it will often hit the ejector in some out of whack manner and stove pipe or do some other undesirable shit like slam into the barrel hood and double feed.

     

    All of these issues can a do happen with .45's as well, but less commonly. Well made 1911's won't have these issues, but really well made 1911's are going to cost a lot of $$$.

  2. Yeah, but he put lube on it. Most polymer striker fired pistol owners seem to think their Glock can magically run with no lube ever. They're morons.

     

    Chances are if they lubed their pistols, and cleaned them once in awhile they'd have done just fine in that class.

  3. 1911's work best in .45 ACP. Period. Followed by .38 Super or 9x23 Winchester because the cartridges are long enough they don't get out of whack on the feed ramp like a 9x19 often can. The 10mm also works but is hard on the frame.

     

    If you want a 1911 that works like Browning intended: buy a 5" barreled version in .45 ACP with no guide rod, a 16.5lb to 18lb recoil spring, and no cast or MIM parts assembled by someone who knows what they're doing. If a medium bore is a must then get the same 5" gun in a .38 Super or 9x23.

     

    Any deviation from that cartridge length or barrel length reduces reliability and forgiveness in the system and increases the amount of skill and care required to assemble one that runs correctly. This can still be accomplished reasonably with the 4.25" commander sized guns. Anything shorter and it's a total crap shoot. Any cartridge shorter than .45 ACP/.38 Super and it's also a crap shoot.

     

    If you want a 9mm that is single action and a Browning design buy a Hi-Power. Otherwise the SIG P226 SAO is a good alternative particularly the Legion model.

  4. In other news I have acquired a Dillon RT 1500 case trimmer and size trim die. It is bad ass.

     

    Size and trim rifle brass all in one step. Mounted on my Dillon XL650 with a case feeder. I can now process very large amounts of rifle brass very quickly.

  5. Saw a tiny little German Shepherd puppy at PetsMart the other day someone had with them. Already leash training and doing well, couldn't have been more than 6-7 weeks old. I generally don't like puppies, preferring young adults and up... but that little guy was majorly dare I say it.... cute. Really want to get a GSD puppy now. Our now 6 year old female GSD loves other dogs. She needs a puppy to play with. Yeah. That's how I'll sell the wife on it.
  6. While I like revolvers I understand most new shooters will not appreciate them. So I stick by my suggestion to acquire a .22LR pistol of good quality before or at the same time you select a centerfire. If you find a centerfire pistol with a .22LR conversion slide, barrel, and magazine you should consider it.

     

    The .22LR is cheap to shoot, and you can learn/master the basics on it while having fun and avoiding developing bad habits like anticipating recoil and flinching among other things.

     

    CZ and SIG both offer .22 conversions, and there are probably others. Another advantage is you build mechanics skills on running the same pistol since the .22 is an understudy.

  7. What gun do you guys recommend to start out with? I wanna get one and start going to the range that is open down the street from my house. Price isnt really an issue, thoughts?

     

    Maryland has retarded gun laws and many pistols aren't approved for sale in that communist totalitarian shit hole. So good luck.

     

    If I were you I'd buy a .22 target pistol so you actually learn trigger control and basic pistol marksmanship. No one listens to this advice because they don't know what try don't know. So enjoy developing a flinch and never hitting your target with the 9mm, .40 S&W, or .45 ACP you will inevitably buy as your first handgun.

     

    Then I'd tell you to buy a medium framed 4" barrel .357 Magnum revolver and feed it .38 Special as your intro to center fire handguns. An all steel revolver is simple, durable, accurate, and versatile. Fed .38 Special it will recoil very little. When you're ready for more power you can run .357's in it. Pretty sure you can buy revolvers in shit ass Maryland too which is a bonus. You won't listen to that advice either and you'll buy a polymer framed striker fired pistol instead, and being Maryland the newer pistol with nicer triggers and ergonomics may not be approved so you'll buy a Glock 23 or something like that. It will have garbage sights, and a wretched trigger in addition to snappy recoil because it weighs next to nothing. You will shoot it poorly and be afraid of the recoil flinching at every shot and hitting nothing.

  8. Cheap, reliable, user configurable, easy to maintain, good ergonomics for virtually any shooter, and very accurate.

     

    My guess is Big Army will get a full size 4.7" bbl with 17 or 21 round mags and full size frame. And other units and plain clothes Army investigators will get the compact, as will aviation.

  9. I guess the Army has selected the SIG P320 to replace the M9 Beretta as the standard issue sidearm. Suck it Glock.

     

    I have to admit that my Wife's P320 has grown on me although I still lean towards my VP9. The fact the P320 is totally modular is a huge advantage. Maybe I should buy another one and send the firearm part to Bruce Gray for trigger work.

  10. His class personality is like the videos just with more profanity, and some good natured ribbing. Plus the benefit of actual personal level instruction and pointers. I hope to take another TAPS class this year or next to gauge my progress. I have the carbine video, but not pistol. Need to buy the pistol TAPS video.
  11. I was told the tools were sold off long ago. But I have never visited the plant, so I do not know for certain. The last true Python was supposedly made in 2005, iirc. By then the Pythons had been coming out of the "custom shop" as a "special order" for dealers. Once again iirc, the last "production" units were released in 2000 (prior to being special order for dealers).

     

    Regardless, they wont be coming back. Tools, craftsman, money. Money to pay for tools, and craftsman and then MOAR money from the end user. I would expect to pay well over $4k for a small Python today. I dont know too many people willing to separate with that kind of cash for a revolver. I dont want it for the safe, I want to shoot the snot out of it.

     

    A Colt Python with an 8" barrel chambered in 44mag... Do you feel lucky, punk? :wub::wub::wub:

     

    The Python frame is not large enough to accommodate .44 Magnum.

  12. The tools are still there allegedly, and there is still know how.

     

    Fact is the last Python was made in 2014 from new old stock parts by a Colt employee that was allowed to assemble it as a project with instruction from older custom shop employees. That said it would not be economically viable.

  13. Just curious, but why do you guys get suppressors and why do they need special ammo?

     

    Suppressors don't need special ammo. Some shooters will utilize ammunition that is already subsonic to reduce sound signature even more. Otherwise you still have the supersonic crack of the round breaking the sound barrier.

     

    Even shooting full power rifle ammo running supersonic speeds in a suppressed rifle is really nice because the sound signature is lowered to a hearing safe level. So the suppressor acts as a form of hearing protection, and as a way to reduce noise pollution.

     

    Typically suppressors don't affect weapon accuracy either way if the suppressor is well made, although it is recommended to use a heavier barrel with them to reduce impact shifts between non suppressed and suppressed use. So pencil barrels need not apply.

     

    Some states allow hunting with suppressors so the hunter doesn't have to make his ears bleed, and the public doesn't have to hear WWIII kick off outside of town every November. Well at least theoretically, since most hunters don't shoot a lot and probably will not go to the expense and hassle of obtaining a suppressor.

     

    Downsides are expense, government hurdles, and loss of manoueverability since you're adding a bunch of length and weight to the end of your firearm.

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