Penguin

Mine is the only one that mattered anyway.

If a single stage trigger and a two stage trigger feel the same to you, then I submit you are not using the two stage trigger correctly for deliberate shooting. You are supposed to take up the first stage of smooth light travel until you hit the 2nd stage and then press through the 2nd stage as it will break with very little additional movement. If you're just doing rapid fire close range drills the difference is negligible between a 2 stage and a single stage. It's when you need to make a low probability shot or do other precision work that the 2 stage really makes a difference.

BDII, You have a fine basic carbine in your 6920. I implore you to upgrade the trigger to something that doesn't suck shit through a straw. Is a quality trigger pricey? Yes, but it will help make the your stick roughly 300% more enjoyable to shoot, particularly if you're doing deliberate shooting for accuracy at distance. For me the transition to a good 2 stage trigger from the GI hot garbage trigger was a revelation, totally changing how I look at the AR platform. As it is you probably have an excellent barrel on that rifle, because Colt makes really really good barrels. Everything else is assembled correctly too. So the mechanical accuracy potential is there, but you have this horrible GI trigger fighting you every step of the way in exploiting the rifle for what it can actually do. A 6920 is a great base to upgrade from as time and budget allows. In priority order: 1.) Ditch the GI trigger for a high quality aftermarket unit. I'm an admitted Geissele fan. As you're prior military Brownells gives a discount on most stuff, and a Geissele SSA, SSA-E, or the SDC, or SDE (all of them are a 2 stage) can be had for about $208.00, and they do run sales on them. I'm a big fan of the SDC since I like the flat trigger shoe, and the 4.5lb total pull weight is quite appropriate for a general purpose carbine. 2.) A good optic. Take your pick of what you're looking for, and what you want to gun to do. 3.) Free float rail. This will improve mechanical accuracy quite a bit, and there a are a ton of good options of varying price. 4.) Change furniture if desired. Not real expensive, and easy to do.

A lighter trigger return spring on a GI trigger can give some benefits to pull weight, but not much. A lighter hammer mainspring is a bad idea. At best you will have a lighter trigger pull with increased lock time, but ignition will still be reliable. At worst you will compromise reliability with a too light hammer spring that will not ignite all primers. The problem with the GI trigger is that in order for it to be safe the contact geometry of the hammer notch and trigger sear is such that there is a metric shit load of over lap, and AND the trigger pull actually ends up pushing the hammer back against the mainspring of the hammer. Watch this sometime in your lower with a GI trigger, pull the trigger and watch the hammer cock back slightly. You can't have a good GI trigger with correct safe geometry due to where the sere surfaces and hammer notch are located, and still maintain a full power mainspring. You can try to mitigate this with polishing, and coatings, and all sorts of masturbation but at the end of the day it is like trying to turn an economy car into a Rolls Royce. The Geissele trigger fixes this by completely relocating the sere surfaces to a location where the trigger does not have to push against hammer spring tension at all. There is still plenty of surface engagement overlap so you have a very safe and forgiving trigger too. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4MA5OqTsWU]AR15 Trigger: Two Stage vs Single Stage, Geissele and AR-15 Milspec - YouTube[/ame]

CZ takes a long time to release products. So given the political climate I’d get one while you can. If the 806 shows up and you can acquire one then go for it. The Galil Ace is a dated design, not nearly as refined as the CZ since the Czechs took the SCAR copied what worked and made a few improvements.

Get the 805 Bren.

Back ordered the SR-15 E3 Mod 2 M-Lok. Now I wait.

I’m leaning more towards the 600 series body with a Malkoff head. Either the super throw or the E2S. I just really like the mounting solution that Arisaka has come up with.

Also requires magazines that allow loading from the top with a strait downward push of the round past the feed lips. So most pistol magazines need not apply. I guess you can load the stick mags for your 9mm AR though.

The proprietary parts solve a lot of the known issues of AR platform and from what I’ve been able to research they just don’t break. The bolt for example is evidently extremely durable, never heard of one cracking a lug, or breaking in half at the cam pin hole. The gas system parts are also an improvement allowing what is reported to be the softest shooting duty grade AR in existence that doesn’t run an adjustable gas block. So I’m not too worried about service on the gun. If I’m able to afford to shoot the barrel out, or out enough rounds down it to break a bolt, or erode the gas manifold and gas tube I’m sure I can afford to fix it. That’s enough ammo you could buy a decent used car for the same money.

Think it’s time to order a KAC SR-15 and just get it over with. My attempts to price out an upper I want come close enough to the money it would cost for the KAC that I might as well just get the whole rifle. Talk me out of ordering a 16” SR-15 E3 Mod 2 M-LOK. I’ll slap my NXS 1-4X24 FC-3G in Nightforce Unimount on top, and put an Arisaka light on the front, a QD socket up front, and maybe a barricade stop. Put my Vickers sling with sling ding on, and call it a day. The only AR I’ll probably ever need or want to use for 99% of my uses for the platform. Possibly upgrade to a 1-8 optic at some point, probably another Nightforce but honestly the 1-4 does most anything a non precision AR in 5.56 is going to do.

I’ll wait a year or two for all the beta testers to find what’s wrong with the guns. Seems that most new polymer pistols released these days are just not well sorted out.

If you’re gonna spend that much you can do better.

There’s nothing wrong with DI gas systems. However, the choice to use stainless steel for the barrel is a dealbreaker. Cheap surplus Com-block ammo is usually a steel jacket with a copper wash. That will end up eating up a non chrome lined or non- nitrocarburized barrel very quickly.

Cajun Gun Works knows their shit. DA/SA pistol triggers are not for novices to screw with. Let an expert do it who has the tools and knowledge.

We got brand new M249’s before we deployed in 2004. They ran like a champ. Guess it helps when all your shit isn’t worn out. Just keep that little bullet hose lubed, and your linked 5.56mm reasonably clean and Hajji is gonna have a bad day.

^ This. Simunitions will quickly cure some habits. And make you need to do laundry.

They do gun reviews and some history as well. Plenty of articles on reloading for old guns, so I history lessons are thrown in. I’ve actually learned stuff reading Handloader.

Handloader is pretty good. Guns is OK. I have grown very tired of most gun rags, they’re just garbage anymore.

Double tap.

Uhhh SIONICS is not arguably a tier higher in quality than the Springfield Armory.... it’s probably two tiers higher. I’d put the SIONICS up against a Colt, BCM, or DD for quality.

If it won’t run with a weapon mounted light then to hell with it.

That's how comps work though, the more gas you give them the flatter they shoot.

Yeah revolver guys who reload and compete with no power factor are notorious for loading the lightest powder puff loads they think they can get down the barrel to the target. Lower recoil being the goal, and the revolver is game because obviously the ammo doesn't have to have the oomph to run the action. I can see where frangible ammo could be an issue with really light loads, those bullets are very hard and need some pressure to get them slugged into the forcing cone and down the barrel. A guy used to loading a soft swagged lead bullet plugging in the same load data for a frangible round may be in for a rude surprise. The other extreme in revolver junkies are the guys who want to see just how hot they can load shit before they need a mallet and a dowell to eject cases.

Yeah iPhone doesn't like the word squib. Wants to change it.