praedet

#1) Hoosier R6 (225/40-17), R-Compound Tire , $$ = Cheap since they were heat cycled twice , 60-80 Track miles... #2) Colorado #3) Track time #4) 100% Track Time #5) RE92s, W300s, RS2s, Eagle F1s #6) Let's see. There is NO COMPARISON between these and any other tires I have driven on any car. These have incredible amounts of grip. Almost every turn I thought I was carrying too much speed, and I only was once These will not perform well in standing water as they have NO tread. Braking performance is stellar with the limits incredibly high. I can still get ABS to activate w/ my brake set-up and XP12/XP10 brake pads I probably need wider tires to truly use my brakes. Overall, an incredible tire for the track. THEY ARE NOT SNOW TIRES

Sounds cool I am definitely interested...

Why so narrow on the tires?

So far, in a straight-line faced with DEEP puddles, these are better. Add to that they are quieter and will last at least 2x as long, and the F1s are pretty good But, they are roughly 2X more expensive

I thought the rear 2.5i brakes were the same size, but non-vented...

#1) Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 (245/40-17), Ultra (?) Performance Summer Tire, $240 each mounted w/ lifetime free replacement and balancing at Discount Tire, 1K Summer miles to date, and about 50 winter miles... #2) Colorado #3) Communting and canyon runs #4) 60/40 Hwy/City #5) RE92s, W300s, RS2s #6) Well, I increased in width about .5-.75" per tire, so the extra grip on these vs. the Hankooks could easily be attributed to that. They are much quieter than close to worn-out RS2s, that is for sure. In the rain, I have not found their limits, but I have not pushed them as hard as the dry. In the dry, I have not found a corner yet that can't betaken at more than double the posting. Much like most people say, they do pick up rocks more than most tires. They are a better all around tire than any of my previous tires in the summer, and probably almost as good in PURE performance as an RS2 in the same size. Are they worth the price... I did get to try these in snow. I wish I didn't, but my snows will not fit over the brakes. I made it home driving VERY slow. My only possible problem came in the 4-wheel drift I had to do up the driveway to get in the garage THEY ARE NOT SNOW TIRES

Those are the new prodrives that aren't out yet...

So just BXT? You might try some Ensolite over the top of the BT to then attenuate some of that low freq. noise... I did it in the wife's car and it really helped with the BXT. Ted

^^^Cool, thanks

How is this working out so far?

Thanks!

Sunny rim pic http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/After/RearOverlook1Close2.jpg

I will, and by the way. Using my VERY specialized weighing device, (My hands and my wife's hands ) we agreed that the Stoptech front caliper is about 3-4 lbs lighter than the stock front caliper. The 332x32mm rotor is about 1-2 lbs lighter than the stock front rotor, or about 4 lbs heavier than the iON 2-piece stock sized rotor. The Stoptech rear caliper is right around the same weight as the rear stock caliper, and the 328x28mm rear rotor is about 1 lb lighter than the stock rear rotor... So, 4-6 lbs saving per front corner, and rougly 1 lb per corner rear savings Ted

The Front and Rear Legacy Stoptech Kit w/ an upgraded suspension is very close to full lock-up front and rear at the same time. I found this out during bed-in while braking in a slight turn.... If it had been too rear-biased, I would have swapped ends. Too front biased and I would not have continued slowing down at the same rate as the rear lightened and started to swing No ABS intrussion during the above maneuver Ted

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/After/SideOverlook2Close1.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/After/SideOverlook1Close1.jpg

#1) Hankook W300 IceBear (225/45-17), High Performance Winter Tire, $140 each mounted w/ lifetime free replacement and balancing at Discount Tire, 10K winter miles to date... #2) Currently Colorado, but also used in Ohio #3) Simply communting and playing in parking lots with these #4) 60/40 Hwy/City now, 25/75 in Ohio #5) RE92s #6) These were better than the RE92s in all areas. I do not feel the RE92s were bad by any means, but I did not expect the increased dry performance that these provided. (Even up to 80 degrees F) They have better hydroplane resistance than the RE92s, and stiffer sidewalls. This means that there is a slightly stiffer ride. Wear is good and I think that 25K winter miles is possible with these. Snow perfomance is almost as good as Nokian WRs when new, and better than older WRs. Ice is so-so, but this is a performance winter, not a studded tire. Overall I would gt them again, but I think I will be testing out some Dunlop's instead next winter. #1) Hankook RS-2 Z212 (225/45-17), Ultra (?) Performance Summer Tire, $125 each mounted w/ lifetime free replacement and balancing at Discount Tire, 11K summer miles to date, but sold to a friend... #2) Currently Colorado, but also used in Ohio #3) Communting, canyon runs, and a long trip cross-country #4) 60/40 Hwy/City now, 25/75 in Ohio #5) RE92s, W300 IceBears #6) These have an amazing amount of grip vs. the RE92s or the W300s. The turn-in is crisp enough that I truly have to adapt to them. I find that I can increase max cornering speeds by almost 100% of any posted speed. From experience w/ the previous Azenis (Not the 615s) I feel these are 95% as good in the dry, and infinitely better in standing water, resisting hydroplaning quite well. They are about as stiff as the W300s (stiffer than the RE92s) but make more noise. At 11K miles I think they will last about another 6-8K miles. They definitely have gotten louder as they have worn. If I was looking for an Auto-x tire, this would be it. Since I have R-compuounds now, I am moving on to the Goodyear's below...

The techna-fit issues have been resolved...

They do, it would be a good upgrade for the 2.5i

Endless SS-Ms...

SS-Ms... How does it act w/ abs? Any hint that the rear is locking up first? My setup w/ KWs is going to be VERY rear biased based on your observations Ted

Talk to Stoptech and AP then

I actually have the calcs up on the first page for every Front Brake set-up with the RB 316x18mm stock caliper rear set-up. Just noted it in the initial post. My Set-up as of this Friday will be Stock front with the rear RB kit, so 70.2/29.8 bias

The pad height does not affect the actual force the brakes exert because only the piston has fluid behind it. But, a larger pad means that the force is spread out so you don't wear down pad's as quickly. For racing, that is what you want for sure! In actually, the higher radial height can hurt the total torque of the set-up because that meas the pistons might be closer to the hub, so the moment arm is smaller. The rear STi set-up actually moves the bias more forward because of the MUCH smaller pistons. What you might be feeling is the more rear bias due to stiffer suspension that doesn't allow for as much dive... Ted

I updated most set-ups to include calculations if you use the Racing Brake 316mm modified rear shown here... I also added the biasing info for the Legacy GT Specific Stoptech 332mm Front BBK Ted

I will PM you back, but the problem is that Stoptech does not release any of their specs, so I can't calculate anything for their brakes... All biasing calculations are done with an equal front and rear pad Mu... Ted