ktmrider

for anyone doing an EARLY 04 sti trans, (stubbed axles). mine has always leaked, after further research, not only do you have to remove the stubs, you also have to replace the "sundial" or differential retainer on the sides of the transmission for our male style axles to fit properly.

 

Sundials (retainer differential) 38342AA161 (2) dealer claims same l/r

 

O-rings 806900150 (2) may not be required but ordered to determine.

 

Numbers above for a 2005 STi. Local dealer claims sundial part numbers are the same for '02 through '07 model years.

 

Having the above part numbers should allow a "pinned" '04 US STi to be converted to non-"pinned" and direct fit a STI or LGT front axle. The stub shafts will require removal from the "pinned" transmission's differential. Be sure to review the appropriate Service Manual for installation and adjustment procedures.

The 'dials were the type that requires removal to change seals ( installs from the inside ) due to the outer lip/rim for seal position. It appears the inside-type keeps the seal from making good contact with the male style axles ( just barely makes the sealing surface, est 10mm or so ). Heading to the dealership with part #'s above.

Last on the NSS issue, the sensor is disconnected ( in fact wires/connector are ripped out of the harness ). Cruise control won't engage but only throws a Pending Code when trying to engage. Will source a 5MT switch and harness then report back.

^^ Should specify I BOUGHT Zorro's car, he did the swap many years ago so no harness or sensor is immediately available.

In fact the NSS switch connector is gone, just two wires hanging down.

Thanks,

 

I am in the middle of a re-tune and I did not want it to effect the end result. Is the length of the harness of each nss the same? I am assuming the plugs are identical.

Not precisely a meet but thought you CO folks might make it into one: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fun-event-all-out-call-out-nm-6-1-13-206399.html

Great event, would love to see a few Southwest area whips come to The Land of Enchantment for the weekend!

That is kinda what I figured....so I guess the Legacies don't have the wandering rear end feel at highway speeds right?

 

-r

However Leggy wagons have numerous strut alternatives/options where the OB models do not.

^^ Udpate to the update.

Car still felt a bit "funny", ie butt dyno thinks things were a bit lean. Hooked up my scan tool, both LT and ST fuel trims were all over the place. Installed an 08 STI fuel pump assy I got from Hicksta today, immediately noticed an improvement. Scanner shows fuel trims much more stable and near zero.

Current hypothesis, reloading the ECU map reset the LT trims which made the initial improvement. Car has 138k miles and it appears to be the original FP. Lots of junk in the sock and bottom of the cannister too. Hopefully this is the final fix, I was really mulling the reasoning behind reloading a map only to fix problem.

^^ Update, as suggested I reloaded my ECU map before going any further. Problem solved. Note I took my kid to school, ran horribly. Got home, uploaded map, not a hint of buck/surge.

WTF? Not sure what or why but it runs perfectly now. Didn't log before swapping the map so I don't know exactly what was causing the issue but 200 miles later it's running "normally".

Bumpage.

Having a similar problem however I'm not getting any codes. Car surges/bucks when the AVCS actuation point is met, 2500rpm. Local guru thinks the dowel pin hole has "ovaled out" which makes the cam gear stick momentarily. Hard part is no code, will log some AVCS and timing stuff to try and pinpoint.

Apparently when you reinstall the cam gear the torque spec has to be met very specifically. He had 3 separate examples of ovaled/egged out alignment holes in the gear.

Since I did not drive much on the center clip position I cannot comment like MS can. On my car the highest notch leveled ride height F-R with a note it was used ( 8k miles by PO before trading car in ).

From my motorcycle racing days I can comment on basic theory however. Moving the clip changes static spring preload. It affects the initial dampening rate, ie takes more "energy" before the spring begins to compress. So over small bumps ( when the wheel is moving little to no distance ) it feels a touch stiffer however once the strut begins its compression motion it feels the same.

^^ No worries!

And BTW you will LOVE LOVE LOVE this setup. I realize it's expensive however is worth every penny IMO.

^^ Check the thread in Audio here for your query on replacing the stock head unit: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/05-legacy-audio-faq-compiled-board-12608.html

GL fabbing those new PCB's...

Interesting, sounds like some VAG-COM cables really do need 1.29a. Or maybe it's a Windows 7 thing. XP is the newest version of Windows I've used.

 

I think most of the problems people have with EcuFlash 1.42 are from trying to use the FTDI-branded drivers with it, which doesn't work. But clearly there's more to it than that.

Yeah, this was on a Win7 laptop. My only XP laptop is a 9" netbook. I installed 1.42, canceled the driver section, deleted the com cable, rebooted, directed it to the 2.08.14 drivers, and tried to connect; nothing. Learning View worked fine. I uninstalled 1.42 and installed 1.29a with the same driver package, no problem.

 

I'll rehost ECUFlash 1.29a so people can find it. Took me a while to find a good link.

 

This link should work, if not let me know and I'll edit it

Was using OSE 1.29 on a VAG cable bought 2 years ago, no problems. Due to some non-relevant issues I had to buy another VAG cable a few weeks ago. New cable wouldn't connect with OSE but could log with Enginuity?!? LED is on, all seems Ok, OSE just won't connect. FYI my laptop is XP and worked fine with the older ebay cable. Also another note I bought two cables, one for a co-worker, same problem with other one.

Decided to download OSE 1.42 today and try again. All works fine now.

Guess the cables can be sensitive to OSE version....

Nevertheless, new vendors with new products dodging certain questions justifies a precautionary consumer.

I've pretty much stopped personal comments to ads ( price, product, description, appearance, etc ). Made mistakes over the years on some items, noob-ness and insufficient research on my part mainly.

If someone's willing to hand over $1500+ of their money on a new vendor, especially one with cryptic-at-best responses about their product(s), more power to em. Just don't come crying/hating later, buyer beware.

Thx WP! I'm going back to ABQ for the Oct 9th weekend and attending a wedding in Santa Cruz 10/23 so this coming Sunday or 10/16 should be open. The Skyline trip would be an awesome excursion. Only snag could be family, my aunt lives in Tracy and is in very poor health.

I'm kinda a Bay area vet, come from Portuguese decent outta Half Moon Bay plus father grew up in Livermore. Been coming for work fairly regular too since 1997 altho usually in rental cars.

The DC and/or Gellert meets should be doable, I'm working 1-8pm until 10/8.

Hope to be able to meet up with a few of ya!

Spotted myself, drove out to Belmont/San Mateo from NM this past weekend. Working until 10/23.

Took 152 over to Gilroy, hate the 580/238/880 interchange plus trying to boycott the $5 bridge toll when possible.

LOVED the 152 run, car ran perfectly and with the Bilstein/BBS setup handled like a dream.

Will keep an eye out for any local events, 4 weeks away from home and in a hotel gets boring.

Thanks for the write-up!

 

I got the "alpha-bid" cable off of ebay was was able to get it to work using EcuFlash 1.29a

 

Download available here:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=VBFURU6Z

Reading, Writing, Logging like a foo now. Appreciate the info everyone!

Installed front STI Brembos, solid rotors, DOT3 fluid, and OTS ceramic pads last week.

Love the feel, modulation, and effort with the semi-OEM pads ( have some HP+ for weekend auto-x events tho ). Previous setup was completely stock, 90k miles, and BBS wheels.

The calipers were painted silver by the PO, matches the BSM quite well altho with the silver BBS' it's quite the monotone look now...

just hope my retaining clip would hold inside the cup.

I checked mine once installed, even with the suspension at the mechanical limit of travel there was a good 20-25mm of movement before the bearings made contact with the clip. My understanding is that it keeps the cup and bearings from falling off during maintenance only.

Did mine last week, so far all is good.

My notes:

1. New boot is much "sturdier" than the original

2. Could NOT get the axle to separate from the hub. Even tried a FWD hub puller with no success. Eventually took the caliper off, removed the ABS sensor, and yanked the axle out with the hub/spindle attached. Not a major problem but good thing I was going after the inner boot only.

3. PN list is missing the retaining clip ( on cup ), reused mine since there is no actual stress on it. Just prevents the axle and bearings from slipping out easily.

4. Replace the oil seals on the tranny. They are $7 each and easy to R&R. I had a leak on the DS axle, of course NOT the side with the torn boot. Note the R and L sides are slightly different, I got the numbers from another thread.

GL, like mentioned it was not a major undertaking and WAAAAY cheaper than a new axle.

Well, there's a sticky'd thread right in this same forum that answers this and more http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451

EDIT, I did see the one BE reference that talked about the number following being for engine configuration ( displacement and induction ).

Anywho, like I mentioned in my first post I came across a huge cache of used OEM and aftermarket parts in Japan ( staying here thru 11/14 ). All the turbo-charged 4th gens JDM rides have a "5" after the BL or BP. Thus I did not want to buy any BL5 parts for my USDM Leggy and come to find out they don't fit.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html <- that can help you get a better understanding of the VIN.

So far the USDM vehicles with the 2.5L engine, turbo or NA, is "6". So the sedan is BL6 and the wagons are BP6 in that jargon.

I am now fairly sure the JDM Legacy BL5/BP5 coding is for the turbo 2.0L engine. This is also confirmed by the window stickers on the used cars I have seen, the "hood scoop" models all have the "5" including the revised body panel 07+ MY.

So they're all BP/BL, that fivver is engine related.

Well, since no one has chimed in I "think" the five (5) designates the turbo motor.

Got it from a Forrester website.

what are those mean?? BL? BP? BL5? BP5?

Don't want to end up with BL5 parts not working on BL if there is any difference...

Well guys, I just ordered this part:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370269165321#ht_3067wt_1165

 

And I'll keep ya posted as far as part quality, fitment, etc . . .

Appreciate any update/info!