underground000

I think it may be less then we think. I didnt feel a difference at any rpm under any throttle. I do have the trans bushing insert installed also. Still shifted smooth Maybe we dont feel it cause theres more in the trans to make it shift smooth. ex: the pistons have cushioning springs to make the engagement of gears smooth and not slam into gears, remove a few of the springs and it will engage rougher = less heat and longitivity

I did not adjust TP angle 1st increased the chart equally until the 100 Accel Position was at 490, loaded map and went for test drive, felt nothing still shifted smooth. Came back and started to smell something burning, I think its oil because I went to Pepboys for oil change and I dont quite trust them 100%. Hopefully its not the clutches burning after the full throttle shifting at mid/low rpms 2nd increased everything across the board except 1st 2 columns. All other columns was adjusted to 490 (in S# mode) went out for test drive in S#, didnt feel anything, still shifted smooth. Maybe the prob was I just loaded the map and the car didnt adjust to yet to the current map. Will do another test drive tomorrow after I put a few miles on the car

Here are the tables from Cobb Cali Stage 1 Si-Drive: Intelligent, Sport, Sport # http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/intel.png?t=1287119591 http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/Sport.png?t=1287119594 http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/sharp.png?t=1287119592

Awesome, so my $400 seems to be a good use for the AP so far:lol: So what should I do if you dont mind helping me. The max number AccessTUNER Race allows is 500 - which rpms and accel position to change edit: I didnt read Vaca Pix And since this is easy for me to edit (plug and play) Ill make changes and load to AP and test the car and report back to you guys edit again: Was away from my computer for a day and I missed soo much on the last page. I skimed through it earlier, reading through it now

In AccessTUNER Race, theres 'Gear Determination' - Dont think it has anything to do with line pressure. Under 'Throttle Tuning': - Again I dont think it controls line pressure, numbers start dropping after 2800rpm 'Requested Torque A - Intelligent' 'Requested Torque A - Sport' 'Requested Torque A - Sport #' 'Requested Torque B - Intelligent' 'Requested Torque B- Sport' 'Requested Torque B - Sport #' http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/acc.png?t=1287099720

Unless I'm getting a road tune by Infamous I'm not going to buy a $150 cable for my 08 car just for increased line pressure

The resister mod the bump up the line pressure

Its ok, its not that expensive to do Ill be delayed again cause I have to go to Colorado next week:redface: Unless I do it by the end of this week

Oct bump!! I kind of forgot about the resistor mod, Ill check and see if my local audio shop has one for cheap and may try it out. A nabisco guy with 4eat said he was having cel with the ipt resistor (he had full ipt trans built) so ipt removed it and he said that made the most difference (that he can feel)

You cant just adjust the temp sensor, you will have to adjust lockup also. If you make it read really cold the car will never go into lock up

We all 3rd gen owners want this to happen. I do not have a cable so I do not know if this will work for 08+, 08+ TCU is different, hopefully it will still read it

KY...also when you tell the car to upshift (manual mode), shorten the time when you tell it to upshift to when it upshifts. I know GM cars have a TCU 'Tune' to shorten the time.

Heres the Pic http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/diff.png?t=1283555828 What happens is the rear changes gear ratios to equal the front 50/50 or a larger rear gear?? for the 45/55 split. The front gear never changes Heres the center diff http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74688&d=1255734800

Not possible for RWD, the unless you can unlock the front gears in the diff. The torque split work by giving the rear a different gear but the front stays the same. If you look at a diagram on how our center diff works youll understand, Ill find a pic on how it works You can put it in full FWD, put a fuse in the fuse box under the hood, but dont go more than 45? for less then xx miles

I would guess the clutch torque is for the front/rear torque split (center diff). Theres only 2 setting for torque split for the 5eat. Normal 45/55 front/rear, when theres tire slip it becomes 50/50 Or maybe its what we're looking for - line pressure!! only guesses

Did you buy the 350z shift kit or planning of buying it after you experiment w/ the VB?

This for 08+ http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/hood.png?t=1283051707

Bump, anyone tried the resistor mod?? Im away from my car for another 2 weeks:mad: Heres a link to a guy selling the resistor on eBay, or Im sure you can try an audio shop

I may try the resistor mod, I can try to measure the resistance of the solenoid Anyone know what wire color/pin # the solenoid wire is for 08+ tcu? Dont know if the vaca pics help when I was skimming through it

they also prob change the spool valve springs and open an orifice(s)

So do you guys think I should put the resistor inline or parallel:confused:

Im 1 step close to the resistor mod, bought this to extract the pin. (would of came in handy when doing navi wire grounding w/out cutting) I just need to see how the pin is held in the harness for me to remove it

I thought you stuck your finger in the atf until you said ow:confused: if you didnt say ow its not hot:spin:

I may try this, I bought a tool to extract the wire from the connection harness (again I do not want to cut the wire) hopefully the tool works. 1. Buy the resistor, theres a guy on ebay selling a 5pack for $10 - I know its a hit/miss on ebay 2. Hopefully a pc power supply pin plugs into the tcm wire harness 3. I need to know the pin# and/or the color of the wire to splice When and if I do this Ill report back with the results, if i feel a difference the link from the guy im most likey buying from ebay

yea $300 for the resistor and $400 for valve job:lol: if someone didnt go back and forthso many times and waste their time to switch resistors it might be cheaper:lol:jk