frank_ster

^ yea i wanted to get the quench band to realistic numbers. still running 5 lbs boost. i got a boost control solenoid so i'll eventually wire it up. this poor engine is carbon ing up always practically idling.

so threw it back together on Saturday with the thinner head gaskets and 2 more used lifters. fired right up and put over 500 km on it since and so far so good !

recommended not buy sti fpcm run large wire from battery . relay and larger ground. 20$ of stuff. and everyone beyond stage 2 should do this! lets make a diagram to show this and then we have a sticky !

^ i would try that first .. run the bigger wires to the pump as mentioned. .. if that still is not good enough plug in the sti fpcm. you wont be doing any duplicate work.

^ so the sti fpcm is the least effective ? if all the mods were done to the stock one would there be 13.6 volts to the pump ?

yea .. all the cool people are swapping to 5 eats ..

2.71 total ratio in a 5 eat in 5th

^ well you can send direct power to the pump and still have variable speed. because the variable speed is controlled on the negative side.

^ i had a bunch of random valve springs break a while back .. so would of been some smashing into the side of the ramp instead of following them up. all the others look like brand new.. i was thinking about it i'll just throw 2 other used lifters in and throw it back together.

so i think i found the problem. after about 450 000 km those roller lifters .. well 2 died. the two associated with that cylinder are slightly damaged and the intake one has a slight flat spot. so i figure it pumped up enough to hold that intake valve open at idle and part throttle area. now the question is if i need to replace that cam it has some markings on it but the profile is still there.. the surface is just not smooth. the cam is specaial order ..

whats the thead on the bumpstop for the rear ? m10 or m8 ?

I checked the valve train already I blew with my mouth into the cylinder via 3/8" fuel hose and it seemed fine. What I did notice is that valve and keeper is slightly higher than the one next to it. I'm just gonna pull the head it's about a 20 min job on a pushrod v6. I just hate haveing an immobile car in the way . I tried cleaning out the engine via my 650 cc injectors and 100% duty cycle and didn't help a bit Interesting how I can just flood kill it at 5 lbs boost lol!

bukaru seems to be sick.. missing on cylinder number 4 at idle and slight throttle at full throttle its perfect. i swapped the injectors and spark plugs for that cylinder and no improvement. and there is no blowby so i can only think its the intake valve as i see some fluttering when the missfire happens on the boost gauge. i was planning on pulling the heads to install thinner head gaskets i want to tighten up the quench band anyways.

Dropped the rear subframe and changed the upper inner rear control arm bushings. They were metal on metal and the rear wheels were cambered in big time. So now everything is all strait. I left the driveshaft and differential together and the swing arm with all the brakes intact. I need to get the lower rear inner bushings. And new toe adjustment bolts. And swap those out. But everything was taken apart and I coated all the bolts in anti seize. __________________

i guess it depends on witch bushings. th inner upper require the subrame to be dropped as far as i can tell and that means the brake lines and hand brake cables drivershaft and exhaust need to come off. i'll try and tackle this today

so the buckaru turned 220 000 km on the weekend. other than that i noticed i have massive tow in on the rear wheels. the inner upper bushings are shot and it looks like i have to pull the subframe off to change them. I tried to adjust the tow but the rear bushings are sized onto the bolts so i cant get them out!!!. kinda feel like changing cars.. thinking of geting a touareg and put my buick motor in that

check the voltage when the engine is warm. the ecm tells the alternator to raise the voltage when cold to about 13.8 volts. but then settles down to 13.2

has anyone converted to a one piece driveshaft ? the one on my 79 camaro is 54 inches center to center of the joints. and it weighs substantially less. any semi repar place can mae you a custom driveshaft or even modify yours. i had mine made for 150$

waa?

well it just depends on the voltage you get across the pump. don't measure from ground to the positive of the pump. you need to measure from positive to negative. its a solid state relay designed for half of the currant your putting through it.

well to remove the fpcm from any load what so ever. as i said it can be like replacing the fpcm from a sti.. just go to the pump directly cut the wires off the two wires going to the pump simply become mechanical relay on the + and solid state on the -. new battery power to the relay and new ground to the soild state and thats it. i say this because i assume there is voltage drop on the positive and voltage raise on the negative leaving the fpcm. i should just draw a diagram..

mechanical relay on positive relays draw very little power to activate. the solid state relay would go on the negative. prehaps we should draw you a diagram so you can better understand .. fyi the fpcm is basically a solid state relay. the fuel pump operates like injectors as the 12v positive is on with the key and the negative is pulsed to create variable speed. what you can do to get started is run the larger wire from battery to the back area. and change out to bigger wires.

for others to try you can get the alternator to pump out 14.5 volts if you remove the fuse. the park warning and alternator/ battery light may light up. but your system voltage should be raised. . something to try.

some one can try running a solid state relay and see what the gain is . it should be the same as changing to a sti fpcm but require wiring. edit: but upgrading the wiring to larger requires wiring. i dont think its nessasary for the fpcm to have more power . it acts like a solid state relay. it uses low currant signal to produce high currant output. and it only works on the negative side of the pump. the positive wire just passes through.