mwiener2

damn...cheap bolts. the bolts on the UP and DP are $8.43 each

"I noticed you accidently replaced your gaskets with washers...silly mistake, anyone could've done it"

car's right

i'm up to 'modified hogzaust stg 1+2' right side 10gauge copper wire left side 2 pieces of 10 gauge twisted together. i think i'm gonna stick with this

maybe your car is running super lean or you have cats

so i tried SeeeeeYa's copper wire mod. I like it alot better than the washers so far. I think 12 guage is too small if you havn't modded your mufflers. I'm gonna try 10 or 8. As it is now, I get a nice low putt putt putt at idle and a very quiet growl as the revs rise. Best part, no drone on the highway. Note: I found quite a bit of carbon on the bottom of the car and alot of carbon on my rear sway bar. So the hogzaust has it's disadvantage, it leaves carbon residue all over the place. Btw, I drove in the rain all day so that carbon is has been bulding up the entire time i had the washer mod (stage 2) about 600 miles

it might get hot enough in there to melt solder plumbing solder might be ok, but electronics solder...no way

what is that...stage 10?

i'm thinking of dropping down to stg 1.5 as well. The drone on the highway is getting to me.... But around town it sounds so damn good...and all my friends like it too

I like how I can actually hear my engine now when I rev match

to counter your above remarks. I'm over 100ftlbs of torque more than stock. My car runs silent. I spend 68 cents to get some noise. I greatly enhanced the performance of my car and the sound just wasn't there. No posing here, just a wagon that can romp on just about anything I come across on the road. Telling a "purist" you spent 68cents for noise instead of $500 isn't gonna make him walk away.

I have COBB catless UP and COBB catted Downpipe. Stock resonator and stock cans. Drones at about 3300rpm...which is my cruising speed.

i'm getting a drone on the highway.... i might have to ditch teh hog mod

becasue the outside of the cans are polished and treated and the inside has been exposed to hundreds of hours of sulfluric acid. usually by the time you park your car the cans are hot enough to evaporate any water that got in them, but if you drive through a puddle and ingest some water then park your car...you got water sitting in the can. Salt also never gets inside the can....unless it's got an opening

so i just spent the 68 cents and did the mod. The sound is ok, it's not performance muffler sound, but it also only cost 68 cents. I've only got two real concerns. 1. That open flange is gonna get water in it and salt in the winter which is gonna tear apart the insides of the muffler. 2. How ever much flow you think is actually going through the muffler, alot isn't. No idea how hot things around that open flange are gonna get, but i hope nothing melts.

uses stock tips? as in it comes without tips? as in it'll work on the OB's?

wait a tic....you can use your AP to read codes off other subies??

you are going to have to solder at least two points to do this mod

The dome light dimmed when the door shut the same before and after the mod.

mine has been holding up for let's see....I did this to my dad's car 2 months ago. So I mine has been holding up for at least 4-5 months

how easy would it be to set off your airbag in your lap?

moved to exterior

By doing any part of this mod you're gonna get scrwed in the warranty. The reason for switching the wires is to move the ground to the other side of the switch. It won't work any other way....unless you switch some wires on the dome light side.

so the wires for the Dome light run by the map light area. Doh!

I forgot to look at the package and it's long gone by now. The people at radio shack should be able to help you pick one out when you tell them what your doing. Just say these key words: 12 volt DC system, about 100 watts.