mwiener2

^^^ The evaporator (cold) is inside the car. The condensor (hot) is in front of the radiator.

I dunno...it does work eventually though..it just takes a while

Because car AC and and heat loads are ALOT different than building ones. The car is mostly glass, has little to no insulation, and has a ton of infiltration. The compressor is rated at 18,000 btuh, but at what RPM? When you're sitting at idle, it might only 8,000 btuh, while 2500rpmmight be the 18000btuh. I made mine idle at around 1000rpm with the AC on and it works alot better. Something isn't designed right with our HVAC system and I havn't been able to figure it out...I also havn't taken the time to try and figure it out. most car AC systems are in the 3-5 ton range. 1 ton of refrigeration = 12,000 btu. most houses....full houses....have a 1.5-3 ton AC system.

I dunno....but like 5 min actually, what will happen is the unit will short cycle. It will cool all the air in the room really fast and the thermostat will turn the unit off. But then cause all the walls and everything in the room are still hot, it will heat up the air fairly quick again, and the unit will turn back on. This will cycle like that untill the walls and stuff in the room cool down. according to Walmart....18,000 BTU is good for 700-1000 sq ft and if walmart says so, it must be right

most refrigerant leaks you cannot see or hear....which is why we charge an arm and a leg to fix them If the refrigerant level is low, the compressor will not turn on to protect itself. The refrigerant is what cools and lubricates the compressor.

Actually, yes it is. R152a is also used in canned air.

Canned air...like for dusting computer stuff.... That's just R134a in a can.

R134a is an HFC Refrigerant and has a zero Ozone Depleation level. But it does have a significant Global Warming Potential level

looks a like a sattalite radio reciever antenna conection (Sattalite radio / GPS)

Updated my reviews in post 19

I solve the problem by buckling up and use the 3x click meathod to shut it up for those instances when i'm not buckled but the car is on

Possible you overheated the switch and melted it so it doesn't work properly

A good audio shop might do this for you.

Yes. wire it to the appropriate terminals onthe dome light switch....

mine still works fine

buy it for 100 and sell it for 150

#1) Toyo T1R 245/45/R-18 Summer Performance Tire #2) Pennsylvania #3) Have autocrossed on this tire #4) 70% highway, 28% city, 2% off road #5) RE92's Kill Bunnies #6) This tire is a very good summer tire. Dry handling is great and very predictable. This tire excels in wet weather. I've sought out large puddles and plowed through them at full speed and not a hint of hydroplanning. High speed highway travel in the rain always felt solid and predictable. I have had this tire on dirt roads and gravel. It isn't so great off pavement, but hey, it was never designed for that. It got me from point A to Point B in the dirt no problem and I was never worried about losing control...so long as I didn't do anything stupid. Road noise is minimal but has become slightly louder as the tire wears. Tire noise is still well below exhaust noise. I will most likely buy these again when they wear out. 3/30/07 UPDATE: Put the wheels on the car and noticed I don't have much tread left. I remember hydroplaning resistance not being as good as it used to be at the end of last season. Probably gonna switch to a different tire when these wear out. Very good tire, but I will only get about a season and a quater out of them. Autocrossing on them probly caused the early weardown. #1) Dunlop WinterSport M3 225/55/R-17 Winter Performance Tire #2) Pennsylvannia #3) Mostly on street driving, but I did autocross them once #4) 70% highway, 25% city, 5% off-road #5) RE92's Kill Bunnies #6) These tires are an exceptional balance of of dedicated snow and dry pavement. Dry performance far exceeded that of the RE92's and was extremly predictable. Although the sidewalls are a little soft and there was some squishiness upon turn in. But it was still better than the RE92's. The one time I autocrossed on them, they did fairly well. I also had bubbles in two tires from pothole damage and they held up through the autocrossing. I was quite impressed with their strength. Overall, considering they are dedicated winter tires, dry performance is amazing....and they're speed rated to 130mph. Wet performace was also very solid and assuring, almost on par with the T1R's. Powdery and packed snow were a breeze. Always felt planted on the snow and very pradictable. Ice performance wasn't as good as I had expected, but I guess that is given up for the dry performance. The few times I had them on dirt roads they were very stable and planted. I've already purchased a second set for this season. 3/30/07 UPDATE: This season I bumped the pressure way up on the M3's. Last season was slightly above the 32/30 stock pressures. This season I went up to 46/44psi. WOW! Made a huge difference. Highway noise went down ( not that it was loud). Fuel economy went up about 1.5 mpg. Snow traction went up about 5 clicks. I couldn't believe what changing the pressure did for snow traction. The suby handled just as well on packed snow as it did on dry pavement.... well, almost. And since I didn't break the tires this season, I get to use them next season too!

for me it's 195+ was gonna buy a wideband anywyas + already have usb --> serial for datalogging + already have most of this and that I'm gonna try and figure out a way to amke my car my senior project. Another kid in my class is using a turbo and making it into a jet engine....so I'm gonna do somethign similar....maybe

i'm thinking of getting ST too. The gas worth of a trip to my tuner would pay for the ST.

StopSweatinMe gets prissy points for not getting his hands dirty

i'm only up to page 15

to clarify... S1 is one washer on each bolt on each side S1.5 would be one washer on each bolt on one side and 2 washers on each bolt on the other side

I have no idea what that could be other then a loose wire or a short somewhere in your new wiring.

i stole the copper wire from work

yeah, it'll be half as loud