Chocoholic005

Those are velocity stacks for the turbos directly behind them. They are essentially fancy intake scoops.

where did i take this off ??

 

I wanna say those were part of the side skirt attachment scheme.

Did you check the blower motor assembly (behind the glovebox) to make sure all the plugs are plugged in?

In stock form, the car won't let you do something to it that's going to hurt it. If you try to downshift to the point where you'd be past redline, it won't allow the shift. Sport mode should have no noticeable degradation in life/longevity.

Didn't either of you figure out just to remove the fuel lines from the shock tower by loosening the screw type hose clamps...I did that when I pulled my engine. I think I talked about in my thread, the click here link in my sig.

 

I needed to entirely replace the fuel lines because they were 15 years old and quite hard. Otherwise, this would have been the better option and certainly will be my go to in the future.

I reused the original bolts; though as you're aware, my car doesn't actually have an engine yet, so no validation other than static that they hold without leaking. Lock tight and torqued them, but I honestly couldn't tell you to what value anymore. I remember it being incredibly hard to find and from a questionable source at that.

Fronts will fit, rears will not. The 06 has an R160 rear differential and the 07-09 has the R180. Are yours not rebuild-able?

I mangled those fuel lines trying to get them off because I didn't understand what a quick connect was. Not only did I mess up my hand for two weeks, I had to buy both. That was a dumb lesson to learn.

 

Subaru, in their infinite wisdom, decided to put a second barb on the hard line basically preventing you from using the proper tool to remove them anyways. I had to sit there with a couple picks and screw with it for 30 minutes to get them all off... quick connect my ass.

I was shopping around and OEM tanks go for $400. Rockauto has an offering from Spectra which is $200, but that has a Ni-terne coating instead of stainless steel.

 

I can't imagine what the fuel tank would cost if it was stainless steel. I went with the Spectra unit, cost me $280 with shipping. Once received I scuffed the exterior surface and painted it black with a basic black enamel, and undercoated the bottom side for further protection. It's worth noting that you'll also need the butyl isolator patches to provide a small barrier between the tank and the underbody when strapped down. I used interior sound deadening patches cut to suit. There are pictures in my thread if you choose to go this route.

 

I will say, it's better the tank than the hard lines coming off of the center fuel bundle. Those are literally impossible to find.

No way to really route it factory without dropping the tank, to my eye.

 

Sounds to me like it's time to completely restore the entire vehicle!

I don't know about that info. Wagon and sedan sway bars are the same I thought, f&r. Different btw NA and FI though.

 

I believe you are correct.

Severely sprained my ankle last weekend, which has really limited me, but I was able to get a little bit done. Painted and installed the headlight brackets, which of course required drilling out more bolts that had snapped during disassembly. Installed a new fuel pressure regulator, and new rubber lines. I went with standard Napa stock instead of the $100 (per line!) quick connect fittings. I also painted the flanges/hangers on the Genome mufflers as they clearly were not made out of stainless steel like the rest of the canister. We had to strip the rust off with a wire wheel, but they should be good now with a few coats of high temp. paint. They still need a good polish.

The original sway bar mount flexes much more than the subframe mount moves. Your assessment of how things are connected is correct.

Latent Wagon said it would be bad for them since they were cast forged

 

I'm pretty sure cast forged isn't a thing.

 

The effects of powder coating on wheels is up for some debate, but ultimately it comes down to the material itself, not whether its cast or forged. The potential for the baking process to alter the properties of the metal is wholly dependent on what processes the wheel has already been through, and what type of alloy it is made out of. The only way to know for sure is by contacting the manufacturer of the wheel and asking. That being said, the ~350-400 degrees that powder coating requires isn't very high in the grand scheme of things, and its not like you're quenching the wheels when you pull them out in an attempt to harden the metal. I highly doubt you'd have an issue.

The addition of the braces make little difference to the mount isolation. The subframe can still move as intended, but the bracing just keeps the sway bar properly in place. The sway bar works based on twisting, not so much the flex of the mount.

I was looking into the ELH also, but all the vids I watched sounds so riced out. I like the deep rumble.

 

Right there with ya.

Don't get me wrong, I want to make my car fast, but 6th gear to me is not the go fast gear. 6th gear, to me, should be the get-good-gas-mileage-and-drive-comfortably gear.

 

Which is all well and good, but when you mess with final drive, you're changing the spacing of all the gears, not just 6th. Everything gets longer. Just some things you have to consider.

 

Are you okay downshifting to 5th when you need to pass someone? Are you okay with acceleration being slower to achieve a longer 6th gear? These are the things you'll likely encounter if you go for a super long 6th.

 

Something else to keep in mind; all 6 speeds aren't created equal. The 15+ WRX 6 speed and outback 6 speed transmissions aren't nearly as strong as an STI, Spec. B or Forester STI transmission.

If I do this, I want to do it someway that isn't a trade off, especially if it SEEMS like it doesn't have to be.

 

Some things to consider. If in theory, you could match up the 5 speed rear diff/front diff with a 6 speed Spec B. or Forester STI transmission, you'd still have a weak front/rear differential setup over the much stronger R180 assembly. If you're not adding power to your H6, that's probably acceptable, but the other problem is you could very easily go the wrong direction, where you make the gears too long and now your vehicle is considerably slower and passing in high gear becomes near impossible. Drivability could really be effected with gears that are too long and the car could be much less enjoyable to drive spiritedly.

Spent the better part of the last 2 days ordering everything for the engine. We're going almost 100% all new here; Type RA shortblock, MAP stage 1 heads with new OEM camshafts and new head cores, 11mm oil pump, APR head studs etc. Only things being carried over are the intake manifold/throttle body, wiring harness, 25% of the sensors, valve covers and the oil cooler. Couple of weeks from now when parts start to arrive, we'll start with the build up.

Food for thought: My engine (203k miles) started failing on cylinder 4, low compression and poor leakdown results. Not catastrophic and could be completely random, but apparently I felt the need to contribute today.

So the clip has to come out? Then put on axle then install into diff? I thought you leave the clip in and it pops in. That’s how it worked on the passenger side.

 

If you bought the diff used, which it sounds like you did, there is a chance the clip stayed in the differential on the passenger side when the previous owner disassembled it. Then when you're trying to install your old axle with the clip installed on it, you're essentially trying to put two clips in the same place.

 

Not saying this is the problem, but I've run into it before and its prevented installation until I removed the old clip from inside the differential.

 

Unless the differential had an axle in it when you received it, then I have no idea why your axle wouldn't fit.

Could be the tank too... those can get pretty bad around the seams.

Did you check to see if there is a clip left inside the differential? I've had this happen, which won't let the new axle be installed.

I assume you need black?

What is the go to for rear brake lines with rear Brembos on a lgt? The stock LGT lines are too long, is there a better option?

 

There used to be someone out there making custom SS brake lines for a legacy w/ rear brembo brakes. They might still be out there somewhere. I think most people (myself included) just use the stock lines and make them work. It's not so much that the lines are too long, its the angle at which the lines bolt up that's different.