bnguyenbb6

Some items have sold. If anyone has any requests for pictures please PM me.

For those who have reached out and sent payments, I'll be shipping out this week. I underestimated some time due to the holiday.

I'm interested in the diamond coil packs and possibly the AVCS, EXHAUST, and Crank tools. Any pictures of them?

I have someone that is interested in the tools but I'll let you know if that falls through. I can get pics of the coilpacks this evening. They were bought brand new last year and have <200 miles on them.

Brian

I am parting out my EJ25 stuff since I’m doing an engine swap into my Legacy. Parts have varying mileage unless specified. Some parts are still on the car and will be removed in the next couple of weeks. Parts are off of a 2006 Legacy GT. Please PM for pics, I’ll update as I get things pulled off. Prices are OBO, shipped unless specified. Prefer local to Texas, items located in Austin. We can do local deals.

-Omni 4bar MAP sensor, new in plastic $80

-Fuel injector clinic top feed rails -6AN, <200 miles, one scratch from install $120

-08 STI TMIC with GM IAT and Grimmspeed Y pipe, local only $150

-Torque Solutions Solid Trans Mount $100

-Torque Solutions Blue Aluminum pitch mount $50

-04 STI 6MT with Watanabe Drift Service RWD Spool $650 local only-pending

-6MT to R180 3” one piece drive shaft, local but could consider shipping $200-pending

-KSTech phenolic spacers 1/2” and 3/4”, $50 each

-KSTech throttle body spacer $20

-Top Feed TGV with KSTech weldless deletes, flapper still there $110 shipped

-Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, bent mount $40 shipped

Sold:

-Fluidampr pulley-sold

-Crank, AVCS, Exhaust Cam tools used once Sold

-Fuel injector clinic Side feed to Top feed conversion rails, -6AN Sold

-Grimmspeed cross pipe Sold

-Injector Dynamics OG ID1000 with clips, cleaned in 2019, <200 miles since cleaning Sold

-Subaru “Diamond” coil packs, <200 miles sold

-Perrin Rotated T3 up pipe, sold

Tial 44mm MVR blue wastegate from Full Race, 14.5 bar spring sold

-Tial 50MM Q BOV. Some scratches sold

Please PM if you have questions or for pictures. If box is full, just reply here.

if only a few menbers will ask this will happen so.

Will this be a full carbon dash with AC vents and such? Mine is beginning to crack after 14 years...any idea on ballpark pricing? Definitely interested.

On the other hand, if you can get the WBO2 to match the stock sensor at idle and read what the manufacturer expects when you lift the throttle (16:1 or 20:1 or whatever) that should be enough to get the multiplier and offset correct. Since it's a linear equation, two points should be all you need. That said, the further apart your known values are, the better.

I tried this also, it doesn't work. Although there is an upper bounds of 18 on the gauge, because the injectors are shut off, there really is no upper bounds. The stock O2 will read 20.03, The AEM gauge reads 18, my old LC1 read 23. Again, the problem with matching it to the stock o2 is the slow response of the stock o2. It doesn't pick up small fluctuations.

Turkeylord- are you seeing a full 5 volts when you lift off throttle? Mine only goes to 4.18 on the AP and RR. The upper bound on the logger with my formula is 17.54. I thought something was wrong but all my logs match the AEM logger.

And FWIW, my AEM is at the beginning of my catback. I was getting overheating codes with my LC1 in the down pipe so I moved the AEM to an extra spot on my catback. No problems at all.

I have this exact gauge in the car wired to my passenger side TGVs. I use 2.375x + 7.613835. From my experience, trying to calibrate it with the front O2 is hard due to the delay and the slow response of the front o2. I had better results moving the Front O2 into the down pipe but it was still off a bit. I tried changing the multiplier and keeping the constant and it was still off. I tried a slope with the lowest and highest with what I saw, it was still off. I finally did it this way:

Plug your laptop into the AEM O2 via the AEM software. Clear the data and take a fresh log at idle while also logging TGV volts via the AP. (Average AFR via AEM Software)=(2.375*Average TGV Volts) + B. Solve for B.

It now matches the gauge logs within .2 at both idle and WOT. You can check it by clearing the logger on the gauge(logs automatically and saves the last ~3 hours) and doing a WOT pull. Compare your log with your formula.

I unfortunately do not have a side profile pic. I don't have rear arms so the camber was sitting where it wanted after lowering(about -1.8*). All my fenders are rolled flat with a slight pull. I had to roll/bang the area of the fender directly back of the rear door to stop the tires from rubbing hard.

Edit: Wheels are +35

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5532/10045904223_f389ab9d1b_z.jpg

255/35 on 18x9.5

I down sized to a 235/40 but I'm considering stepping back up to a 255/265.

Wheel: Drag DR-31

Size: 17x9

Offset: +38

Tire Size: 225/45(first pic) and 235/40 BFG(second pic)

Lowered: ISC N1 w Shorter rear shafts, Shift 6" 6k rear spring

Modified fenders: Pulled fronts and rears, removed front fender liners

Alignment specs:F/R camber:-1.8/-1.5, F/R toe:0

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6631713753_06947bf7bb_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5469/6909108322_5587b5c0c9_z.jpg

"Thermal mass" is the reason. In daily driving that thermal mass does just that... absorbs a large mass of thermal energy. That heat, largely from the engine, is both larger and lasts longer in the HEAVY aftermarket TMICs.

 

The single most significant power-related "benefit" of most aftermarket TMICs is the fact they have less internal resistance. That, to me anyway, signals a loss in efficiency as well.

 

Not to mention raising your center of gravity with a ton of aluminum up high.

 

I've done both. Read the NASIOC thread.

I've gone way past stage 2 but for the sake of discussion...how is less resistence/freer flow bad?

+1 nice write up.

I would suggest making sure all your hardware is functioning as it should. No boost leaks, nothing disconnected etc. It sounds dumb and common sense but you never know...

I never posted mine up...

'06 GT 5spd

VF39 off '05 STi.

Mods:

CP 100mm 8.2:1 pistons

Eagle H beam rods

Cosworth bearings

ARP headstuds

BC valves

ported heads

X02 FMIC

Perrin turbo inlet

AVO panel filter(hacked stock intake)

Synapse BOV

Walbro 255(stock injectors)

Crucial Racing short DP and race pipe

CX Lighting mid and Y pipe(stock mufflers)

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5268165608_8bdbf853b3_b.jpg

A stock STi puts down 210whp/220wtq on this dyno.

I bought some pretty rashed rims for $700 and new tires for $400. $1200 with tires might be a good deal.

Grimmspeed for gold touch up paint.

Gold BBS and the drop look amazing.

A grill would be icing on the cake.

Thanks, I really like it. I also want a grill but am not sure if I want to change the way it looks now.

(as posted in the OBP thread)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/4280487160_9841aba00e_o.jpg

snap shots from today:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/briannguyen435/reargap.jpg?t=1264555109

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/briannguyen435/frontgap.jpg?t=1264556773

another driveway snap shot:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/briannguyen435/hrspringquicksideshot.jpg?t=1264556790

I'd like to do a shoot but classes started up 2 weeks ago and they're keeping me busy, no time to wash and find a good location.