ViscousSquirrel
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Posts posted by ViscousSquirrel
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Well that’s just wonderful. I’m glad to see that you saw it through!
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I just wanted to say I feel your affliction for these particular models. I am probably 15 grand of replacement parts into a 5spd 2006 outback XT. I just couldn’t let it die. Soon everything will be electric and this was the last of a dying breed of manual trans old school turbo spooling, mechanical AWD, sporty wagon. Good on you for going the extra mile to save one.
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Didn't know how many of the slim jam nuts would be needed so I ordered 2 packs, so I have a bunch to send if someone needs them.
SC
Hey I could use a couple of those to get my toe in. I tried to order them online but they were 32 bucks to ship to Hawai’i. I would be happy to purchase yours if you have spares! Thanks!
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Just wanted say thanks for the write up. I did this job today on my 2006 OBXT. WOW what a difference between the old leaking OBXT rack and the new STI rack. It has a nice solid feel to it and really firmed up the response and on center feel.
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Yep I built mine from flatirons as well. Those guys are AMAZING. Machine shops and mechanics are hit or miss. Even the best shops have a dud employee from time to time so double check all the work you farm out.
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Hey, I’m looking for a windshield washer reservoir with the pump and the drivers airbag.
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the first picture shows a black crankshaft, the rest show silver.
there's no pictures of the heads with camshafts installed.
there's no details on the machining specs nor of the valve clearances
there's no pictures of the valves or cams
there's no pictures of the crankshaft in the block
the pictures of the block are missing all the covers/basic assembly pieces
the head pictures don't show the polishing that took place
the weirdness of the trade - I buy you a used block and pay your builder to rebuild it and you'll give me a non working engine of unknown quantity and no warranty that still needs a bunch of parts and work to be usable. Not seeing that deal as being a good one.
The machine shop pictures of receipts say this:
$340 - cyl head valve job (surface included unless otherwise specified)
$180 - block bored@.020, honed
$160 - cyl block(s) decked
$80 - prepare block, clean out all parts thoroughly
$75 - tear down long block
$225 - balance
no parts list
no specs list
no details on port/polish
no details on assembly (the carpet in the background doesn't inspire confidence)
no warranty (machine shop receipt is October 2020)
Costs for a built short block have gone up, but you can still buy a new shortblock from subaru for around 2k. used engines sell for $500-2000 depending on source and come with a 90-day guaranteed runner warranty.
I was interested but details never got better nor did any other pics show up. I should have bought the pdx ex-showcar and moved on. This deal still seems super sketchy to me. buyer beware. ymmv
All of this, plus it looks like he built the block in the apartment without an engine stand. This makes me wonder how well put together the engine is.
Also, off topic, which PDX ex-Showcar are you talking about?
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Just wanted to pop in and compliment your car
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jmp has been working 7 days/week since pandemic started. Response times have been weeks at times.
Buying a used turbo is like a buying a used bullet. Maybe it'll work again, maybe it won't. But it's likely you won't find out there's a problem until you're several thousand dollars farther along. ymmv.
it's your money.
If you buy a used turbo, assume it needs a rebuild and price accordingly. Rebalance can be done by hand, because machine rebalancing is stupid expensive. No manufacturer uses hand balancing tho.
This.
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Hey just what I was looking for! PMed you
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What kind of shape is it in?
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Yep, even low speed collisions can make this happen. It’s one of the reasons that when you try to buy front end damaged subarus from the auction the key mysteriously goes missing.
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A lot of times when subarus get hit in the front, as you are describing, it causes the timing to jump and wreck the motor. I wouldn’t bet on the motor being good in your calculations. You will get more money on a Part out than selling the car while. It will be a lot more work though.
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Ooooo pretty.
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Looking good. I had a legacy wagon and now an OBXT. I like the handling of the legacy better but I like the look of the Outback. As I get older I like the softer ride and the ability to change the oil without jack stands.
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Ordered some more parts last night to get ready for the tune. Tomei ELH, IAG competition engine mount, pitch mount and trans mount. Can’t believe all those parts cost so much. I’m certain my old group n mounts are absolutely done cause when I was installing the engine I had unlimited wiggle room with the transmission positioning. I kind of wanted to get the solid mounts but I think the competition ones will be good enough.
I’m with you on how expensive parts end up being... especially for stuff that seems to wear out prematurely.
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Damn. That’s a solid hit. I’m glad that wasn’t a moose!
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Pm sent on the brakes
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Just a little teaser for tomorrow.
You tease!
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Those are my all time favorite wheels. They look spectacular on your car.
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Congratulations! The car looks great!
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My understanding of the rattle would be that The noise would be caused by the bearing to race clearance. So as the bearing wears down they begin to rattle. That said, all that’s happening is that the tolerances are out of spec from abrasive wear. So it stands to reason that if the race or the bearings don’t meet tolerance specs from the factory then it will rattle like a worn bearing.
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A B test with a new throwbout bearing. Report back with the results of the test.
People have had this problem and they have commented. You seem to refuse to believe that it could be the throwout bearing. Perhaps it was an installation error.
Hard time finding steering rack interchanges
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
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