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iNVAR

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Posts posted by iNVAR

  1. Looks clean, typical stage 1 except for that -4 FBKC at the very, very end but that's just a hiccup. Looks like you might've blipped the throttle to rev match on a downshift or something? :) You didn't even make it to 6K though. Redline would be nice but it's hard to find a good stretch of empty road like that.
  2. I have the 91 OCT map as my base map in case I can't get 93 OCT if I'm traveling or if I think I got some bad gas, in which case I could reset my ecu and default to my base 91 OCT map. Otherwise my realtime map is the 93 OCT map to take advantage of the fact that I can regularly get 93 OCT.

     

    I can see why you might suggest using stg2 91 OCT maps even if you can get 93 OCT, but since stg1 is only a small step up from the OEM map I don't know why I shouldn't take advantage.

     

    Because you're knocking. Put the 91 octane map on. You're not taking advantage of anything by forcing more timing than it can handle.

  3. When you put the 91 map on, did you reset the ECU? Or did you just load a realtime map? I don't believe the AP will reset your ECU upon loading a realtime. ReFLASH, don't just upload a realtime map.

     

    Then give your DAM time to climb back up to 1 after the reset. The DAM/IAM starts out below 1 on an ECU reset/flash, unless someone set up the map differently.

  4. you should also say exactly what mods you have. but like i said, you have enough knock to cause a drop in IAM/DAM. not good. if you're on a cobb stage 2 map (which i'm assuming you are), change down to the 91 octane one.
  5. No VAG Com should work with any ECU Flash version newer than 1.29e. So, if you get a VAG Com to work with 1.42 you are doing really well.

     

    My VAGCOM that I bought some time in 2008 for $9 shipped off Ebay works excellent with ECUFlash 1.42. I've flashed my car over 150 times by now. ;)

     

    My new VAGCOM that I bought some time in 2011, also for $9 with the same ebay description doesn't work with it though.

     

    P.S. I'm on Win7 64 bit.

  6. '08 WRX has this. Subaru calls it Brake Assist. I have a reward ready for whoever can disable this 'feature'.
    Ohh, interesting, just looked it up... Hmm, not sure how I feel about it. I guess in theory it's a good idea but in practice it probably sucks hehe.

     

    you didn't mention caring about any other "features" (ABS, cruise control, etc), so your solution is to remove the fuse. voila, no more hill-assist.

     

    now, where do i collect my reward? ;)

    You're confusing hill-assist with brake assist. Different things. ;)

     

    Psst, fahr, just stumbled across your 2 year old post on clubwrx, trying to figure out how to disable it haha.

  7. Interesting... I think I'm coming around to seeing how shorter pedal travel with a slight increase in required foot pressure makes for better brake modulation.

     

    It's easier to have your foot in a relatively static location and increase the pressure applied...(large MC) as opposed to having to actually move your foot for the extra travel even though the pressure required would be less. (smaller MC)

  8. Hmm I need to go through this thread again, but has anyone mentioned that having a larger MC actually means less hydraulic multiplication and effectively less force applied at the brakes per pound of force applied at the pedal?

     

    http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/hydraulic1.htm

     

    I guess maybe the booster swap makes up for less force being applied overall?

     

    The pedal may feel firmer with less travel, but you have to apply more force to generate the same amount of braking force. At least that's my read on things...

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