StoplightAssassin

Will wheel spacers add another variable into this equation?

 

 

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Yes and no.

 

No, if we're just talking fitment and alignment with a small spacer, that's pretty straight forward. That's just a matter of what looks good by trial and error.

 

Yes, if we're talking about all the other changes a spacer makes to the suspension geometry.

I was looking at maybe -1.0 front and -1.2 to -1.5 for the rears, 0 toe all around. Would this be a good all around setting?

 

I'm also running a 22mm RSB set on the middle setting and stock 26mm FSB. I'm hoping I'll be OK with getting 0 toe with the adjustable LCA dialed in to -1.2 ish

 

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Not a good alignment. The camber specs you proposed will lead to an understeering car.

 

Basically, you want more negative camber in the front than rear. McPherson strut cars lose negative camber very quickly through their motion range. The double wishbone (or multilink, same difference) in the rear will lose negative camber much slower than the front mcstrut.

 

So with the camber specs you proposed, while cornering your front outside tire (the tire that does the most cornering work) may actually lose enough negative camber to go in the positive range (this is bad for grip) while the rear may still have negative camber. The optimal camber for any tire while cornering is 0. 0 camber while cornering means the most tire possible is in contact with the road (contact patch).

 

See my thoughts below for 0 toe.

 

Yes sure you can request them.

 

Main thing is to dial in 0.0 toe all around.

Then set the camber a bit negative to your liking

 

0 toe will make the car rotate much easier, and when I say much easier, I mean the car will bite you in the ass if you aren't careful. If you aren't serious into autocross, I'd recommend running some toe in on the rear. The car will be much more stable at highway speeds and safe for anyone else not accustomed to driving your car.

Anybody lay a vinyl roll on a kitchen floor before? Looks like a PITA, but my options are limited because 1. where it's going is a rental (so not spending a ton of money) 2. the floor is pretty uneven.

 

The flooring store wanted $1100 for an install of their cheapest roll. No thanks, for that cost I'd install tiles myself. My sister did peel and stick tiles with grout in her kitchen. It actually looks fantastic, but I don't think it would hold up well to renters who DGAF

I think I mostly took care of my water penetration issues I've always had in my basement. I got up on a ladder and saw the drip rail is a good 4 to 5 inches away from the gutter. I got 2 rolls of 8 inch aluminum flashing, bent it all up and went right over the old, ineffective drip rail and sealed up whatever I could. The hose test gave the results I was looking for. I'm anxious for a really rainy day to see how much water still gets in the basement, but nothing is in the forecast.

Found I have asbestos tiles in my basement... no worries though as they are not friable so no inhalation worries. Not sure how to cover them though and removing them (professional) is cost-prohibitive.

 

Floor tiles? What do they look like? My garage has asbestos tiles that I just painted with outdoor latex and they still look great after 3 years.

English = syncros and center diff bearings need replacement???

 

syncros = yes. sounds like your 4th gear syncro is bad. if you're extremely lucky it might just be something like a bad shifter bushing, but you'd notice a lot of slop in the shifter (more so than usual)

 

center diff bearings = more of a preventative maintenance thing. mine make a decent amount of noise and my LGT has 60k less than yours, but I also have stiff bushings that transmit a lot more noise than stock. the trans doesn't have to be removed to access the center diff, but they'd charge you a lot less labor to replace the bearings now, as opposed to another repair down the road. just something to consider

If I'm getting difficulty in going from 3rd to 4th and no other gears, what are my options? It's almost a grind if I try to shift at high rpms but drive it like a grandma and it transitions just fine. Clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 5th as well so I'm worried I may have TWO major repairs soon. I'm at OTS Stg 2 with 42k on the clutch and 162k on the trans.

 

Look at it this way, the trans has to come out to repair the syncros anyway, so they won't charge you much for the clutch install, just parts.

 

If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, get it repaired asap so you don't screw up your gears and acquire additional parts costs.

 

If the trans is coming out, I'd replace the center diff bearings while its out.

I also made a couple changes, additions, and clarifications in the AX section.

Holy shit that's a lot of crap in the bb filter. FWIW I never had more than a fleck or two in mine. I usually check once every 2 years.

 

Is the car on its original turbo still? I'd pull the DP and check the turbo for shaft play ASAP. A full oil system flush is probably in order too.

Don't forget a respirator! It's not bad outside, just a dust mask will do, but inside would suck with out one.

Yup, rented a floor sander from home depot. Think it was like 80 bucks with the cost of the rental and pads.

 

The rails and such didn't really need much, but I hit them with my orbital where needed.

This was last weekends project.

 

Years of neglect from the previous owner (and 2 by me trying to figure out what I wanted to do with it).

 

The deck after I power washed it. I didn't take a pic post sanding. You will splinter the wood when power washing.

 

The final product.

That looks great man. We need a bit of a kitchen refresh but don't want to put too much money into it since we'll likely redo it in the next 5yrs or so--I've been eying some of the rustoleum stuff, looks like a great budget-friendly option to change things up a bit.

 

The Rustoleum kit on its own is ok. It is ridiculously messy to apply the color chips and it requires a lot of sanding. The top coating it comes with is not all that thick and nowhere near as glossy as how it finished. We weren't too happy with how it turned out before I bought the additional epoxy. I don't think the Rustoleum kit by itself would last more than a few years without the additional epoxy coating.

Here's the bar I built last summer. The finished wood is all oak with maple trim. The foot rail is galvanized piping from Home Depot. I used some Wurth's silver on it to give it a great shine. The top is a sheet of aluminium that I sanded to give it that brushed look. Then I poured epoxy over it to protect it.

 

 

This is the bar I built for my brother-in-law. He wanted a "classy rustic" look. The finished wood is mostly oak with maple trim. The front is actually just sandply. The top is oak flooring. I did a blow torch finish up top with a bunch of coats of poly. The foot rail is 1 inch galvanized piping. There's a color changing led lighting kit under the rail. You can kinda see the red glow under the front in this pic.

 

I've done a bunch of relatively inexpensive stuff around my house. My kitchen mini-project turned out pretty well considering it only cost about $400 worth of materials. The countertops are one of those rustoleum granite transformation kits. I put a thick UV resistant epoxy coating on the top, which is why it's so glossy.

 

 

 

How does something this happen??.

 

All Legacy meet + too much fun on the road

Ahh. Good old Lake Nockamixon...where some 50+ Legacies all got pulled over at the same time.

Glad you forced me to look up closest store as I didn't realize they are just about everywhere. There is a HF 15 miles away. Headed there in a couple hours. I might even convince myself to get their 12 ton press and just finish all of this today.

 

I've read the 12 ton press is too weak. Someone on another forum posted pics of the center girder bending. Get the 20 ton.

Saw a black OBXT on 95s last night a couple miles south of Philly Intl. Looked stock except for the big SPT sticker

Saw a silver bm gt with rimzzzz pass me at the wawa in oaklyn around 730 tonight

I'm likely picking up an 05 LGT unlimited this weekend. Single owner, 91k miles, had all the major dealer services, including the 90k mile service with new turbo. The seller said his wife mostly drives the car (true or not, who knows) so it hopefully hasn't been beaten on.

 

It's all stock, and I plan on stage 2 power. UP/Catted DP, possibly upgraded TMIC, and probably have the tuning done by IAG Performance. Clutch hasn't been done yet, so it would probably be coming due for replacement soon anyway.

 

Is there any way to test 5th gear? It sounds like these are all sudden failures without any warning noises, so I'm guessing the answer's no.

 

When/if 5th gear does go, is it safe to limp home or to the shop in 1st-4th? Or should one just pull over and get towed?

 

There's hardly any 5mt trans failures reported. If your car is and was always stock, I'd have pretty good faith that the trans itself is fine. It'll hold stg 2 power no problem as long as you can drive.

 

Now if you bang shift gears all the time...well that's a different story.

quick question.

 

I found a sweet deal on an 07 wrx transmission with only 30k on it.

 

my synchros are messing up in 4th in 5th on my current tranny in the 05lgt.

 

now, can i swap that tranny (07 wrx) into my lgt?

I've searched and searched..

 

75 pages in the tranny section and no key words point me in the right direction.

 

Hope you haven't done this yet. The 07 WRX 5spd has weaker gears than the LGTs. You definitely DO NOT WANT that trans.

So then they'd have to call each manufacturer to get the latest revision of the ROM. I doubt any car over a year old is still on it's original factory ROM, just from manufacturers revisions alone.

 

So, even if they did this and verified the checksum is different than the reported current manufacturer's revision, how can they fail you? I've never read any literature indicating it is unlawful to change your ECU's parameters. If it were, dealerships all over the country would have to report it when they hook up to your ECU and they find it's been flashed.

I've only ever known the OBDII test in NJ. It isn't bad.

 

As far as the OBDII reading part of the test (not visual) does any one know:

 

1. If we have a tune will we pass? Or is a reflash to stock required?

It depends on the numbers CA requires to pass. Many of us go through OBDII inspection in NJ with our tuned LGTs and never have trouble passing.

 

1a. Then we have to drive around how many miles to populate values?

Again, it depends. I couldn't give an exact number, but 100 miles will definitely do it.

 

2. If a tuned car ignores data from a removed sensor, how will the test results show?

If you're talking about the EGT probe resistor mod, the code can be shut off with an AP or RomRaider and it won't pop up again.

 

3. Will an Accessport Mask codes?

Yes, but at the same time it will reset the readiness monitors. You will fail if the car hasn't been through the required cycles to set the monitors. Any stored, current, or pending codes will be an automatic fail, at least they are in NJ. Considering you must have a majority of the readiness monitors set in order to pass inspection, there's a good chance the CEL will pop up again in the miles spent trying to set the monitors

 

For HPDE & Lapping events, http://motorsportreg.com covers most of the west coast, and likely the rest of the USA, too.

 

Also, try http://where2race.com for track information and events.

 

With regards HPDE events, please add a note about reviewing the option for track day insurance. HPDE events are not covered by your auto insurance. Buying the track insurance can/will cover the cost of fixing your car in the event of an accident.

 

added!

 

Also added some videos to the various sections.