StoplightAssassin

June 25th in Atlantic City we have an autocross scheduled at Bader Field.  If you guys are interested, I could set aside a class just for LGT.com.

On 2/4/2023 at 5:29 PM, THE RZA said:

@StoplightAssassin & @thefultonhow you better show up too

Nobody wants to see a bunch of spicy Malibus.

It's interesting to see how fast DS has gotten. The turbo Camaro is a DS beast too.

I like STH. I wish they would move the 228i/230i there. I likely would've gotten one already since I fit in them really well.

Updated and added a couple things. New autocross class Extreme Street A and added a section for Time Trials.

Been a long time since I saw an LGT at an event. Gotta wonder how many are left. I believe I saw in a Fasttrack that the LGT was being considered to move to GS, so I may need to update again soon.

I'm TRYING to get to an auto-x event.. Alas, I'm in SM right from the start, so I'll be WAY outclassed.. Too bad my bnr16g doesn't get an "equivalent to vf52" rating :-)

Depending on the region you run, you may be surprised at how under prepared some cars are for their classes.

A set of Hoosiers go a long way.

Nice! Being able to use a VF52 or VF39 on 4th gens in SP will be huge.

 

A WRX is still a better option though, due to its lower weight. But nice for the people who just want to start out running the car they have now, rather than buying the car based on what's competitive in autocross.

 

Slightly off topic, but have you heard anything about Stinger GT classing? My guess is FS, but apparently SCCA forgot to class them before the beginning of the season.

They class cars when they are officially released. Probably FS for the 3.3 and DS for the 2.0. Write a letter asking for it to be classed and it should be included in the next Fastrack.

I rented an auger once for planting arbovitae. It was awful trying to work in the hard soil.

The next time I had to dig a couple holes, I dug them a 6 inches deep, filled them with water and then came back the next day. Took me 5 minutes with a post hole digger to get 3 feet down.

IMO, the LWFW was the worst mod I ever did to my car.

Drivability suffered greatly and it chattered like crazy on decel.

This mat is for outdoor use, so it's done right in the picture. Then you of course need proper draining too. Outside the wall and mat.

Fair enough, but that looks like a stud in the lower right part of the picture.

Trench and put drain pipes below the floor level, then cover the foundation with this type of mat:

http://www.villaportalen.se/bilder/galleribilder/icopal-grund-2015-vp-fg.jpg

 

It has a large number of "bumps" that shall be towards the wall. It will prevent water from the soil to come into contact with the wall and also prevent any capillary effects because it leaves a small air gap towards the wall.

 

You can still tar the wall from the outside.

 

On the inside - use a paint or panel that breathes so you don't seal humidity into the wall.

Yes, but don't do it like this guy. Work with the rubber from the ceiling to the floor, with each lower piece overlapping. But IMO, this is not the way to stop water penetration. You're still allowing water into the foundation. The foundation on the outside should be trenched and then the rubber panels should be placed on the outside. Allowing a lot of water into the foundation is still going to cause problems down the line. Drylock may work for some to stop seepage, but it won't stop a legitimate problem.

But before that, you have to figure out WHY there's a buildup of water coming in. A lot of times poor grading is to blame, a gutter(s) not draining/catching roof water properly, clay soil, sump pump not functioning...etc

There's always used R-comps for sale on bimmerforums in the classifieds section.

You can also volunteer for working a race weekend at your local track and many of the teams will sell you their scuffs for pennies on the dollar. A lot of them will also mount and balance them for you.

If you'd read this thread, you'd see that a) he spent a lot of time/money purchasing and testing different options before b) someone else posted something like "other guys have been using Crown Vic grilles" without giving you your due credit or linking to your thread (in which the pic links are dead btw), so that may have been where he got the idea but why he didn't give you your oh-so-important credit, and c) he's been super open throughout the whole process, posting a how-to, posting pics of the steps in the ones he was building, etc.

 

He's not making cash hand over fist here either, but rather putting in a ton of effort for others' benefit.

 

In short, I don't think it makes sense to get all huffy about this when everything about this community is awesomely open.

 

--

Andy

Well Andy,

a. He went through a lot of shitty ideas before he ultimately realized my solution was the best one.

b. If it's noted its been done before, maybe someone should look into it a bit further?

c. His walkthrough consists of cut out the stock grille (which walkthroughs already exist on this topic), cutout the CV grille, and then cut the CV grille so it fits inside the Legacy grille, glue it all together and so on.. It's exactly what I've told the many people that I've guided in making their grille DIY JDM Spec B grilles via PM. There's no cut off 5/16 here and use 3/4 bondo there. It's all try, try, try again til it all fits.

So thanks for being a concerned citizen Andy.

every Miata I've come across at autocross, their top is in perfect shape.

You must not autocross much

Outside of going with more aggressive camber settings, is there something else you'd recommend? Driver seat time is the obvious one to me - and is something I'm working on!

Other than seat time, camber is what you need. That's why you need camber plates. You can get to your event an extra 15 minutes early, jack up the front end, dial in more negative camber with the plates, run your event, and then put it back to your street setting. You can have your shop put marks on the plates for you for street and event settings.

I need a new alignment (the techs at the shop I brought it to couldn't figure out the whiteline rear camber bushings or the slotted holes in the front coilovers...), but the photo is distorted. IIRC I'm at around -0.5 in the rear and -1.1 in the front.

 

It'll be going in for a new one in the next couple weeks, hopefully dialing in something more along the lines of -2.7F -2.0R

That's where a big part of your problem lies. That's nowhere near enough negative camber. Changing out the springs at this point is only going to change how the car feels on turn in and in slaloms. Once the outside front wheel gains back that small amount of camber in longer turns, you'll very quickly start to plow.

Always maximize your current setup before changing hardware, unless that involves purchasing camber plates, which should 100% be your next purchase.

That was about an hour away from me.

This one happened last year...also about an hour away from me http://www.nj.com/mercer/index.ssf/2015/03/fatal_ewing_gas_explosion_bpu_issues_historic_fine.html

Thanks, I wish I could say I did all the work. My friend and his dad are carpenters, so they helped me cut and hang the crown. Another friend specializes in flooring, so he did the laminate floor. We hired out for the drywall. I did everything else - Paint, caulk, installed 2 new outlets and ran a new coax outlet. The walls that were dark blue needed 3-4 coats. PITA! It was our first time remodeling anything and we are quite happy with how it turned out. Learned a lot, that's for sure. Total cost excluding furniture ~ $1500.

Money well spent!

According to HGTV, you've added $100,000 of value to your home.

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I can only hope you are joking about the Paint Job.

Not joking. If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, look into paint protection.