05LGTLtd

Had a '99 Miata for about two years. Rebuilt suspension with Poly bushings and KYB struts. Harddog Roll bar and new top. Did a lot of general maintenance that was neglected as well. Was quite a bit of fun. Parts are cheap and pretty easy cars to work on. The Variable length intake can be a pain. I'm 6'1" and 225, so I found the Miata a touch tight. Now I have a 2001 boxster for the weekends. Sure miss the miata priced parts! Boxster is more comfortable and more capable, but miata was right up there for the fun factor. 6UL's are nice wheels.

Subaru heads flow like the shower drains in a sorority house. Also engines are stroke/piston balanced torque~HP.

25k+ on my BNR16g with *gasp* FP oil line...

I'd pull the IC and see if there is any debris there or toward the TB. If the bearing went, then the blades can shred against the housing and throw bits toward the intake manifold as well. If you don't have a magnetic drainplug, that may not be a bad idea while flushing the engine.

Did mine today. Two tips. First when you loosen the spring clamp on the return hose, bring it up onto the hard finned line, not down the short rubber hose. It makes it a lot easier to take the hard line out and put back. Second have some one turn the wheel for you, as stated above. This will allow you to use your left hand to put a finger over the short open return hose. You can now use your right hand to turn the PS pump or add more fluid to the reservoir as needed. I took a Gatorade quart bottle and placed it under the hard line against the strut tower and it stayed in place the whole time. Easy to see the fluid with a clear bottle.

That has to be a record holder on the 5eat, right?

Sold the 93 L project car. After replacing steering rack, ball joints, brakes and full exhaust to prep for chump car. Oh well. Brother needed a cheap car to get to work and Project was stalled for the last year or more. One less project to worry about... Now to get the Stuttgart/Finnish love child back on the road for spring.

I didn't say it was gutless.. Just there is no "turbo rubberband" feeling. I get power pretty much instantly throughout the rpm range. (sure it's strongest from 3k-6k) Some people like the wind-up and wham "turbo" feeling. If that's the case, maybe the tune could be altered with a 16g to achieve that, but your probably better off going for a bigger turbo in that case. Sorry if I was not clear enough in my last post.

16g is nice low, mid and high (with injectors). There's no "slingshot" turbo feeling, if that's what your looking for , go for the 18g or larger. My 16g makes more power than the vf40 did through out it's whole range. Still plan on a clutch either way. I can "get by" on the stock clutch, but it won't hold the 16g/infamous1 tune if I really push it. 16g: upgrade your fuel pump and tune is easier with out injectors. Saves some money and is better than stock power wise. 18g: Was the "go to" daily upgrade for the power hungry. Injectors, clutch expected. HTA 68: Better choice for most over 18g if your doing all the mods anyway. 20g (or larger). I need to make xxx whp, need xx.xx 1/4 mile time. (Not saying there is not a place for this setup, just that plan on internal engine mods and 6spd trans to be reliable.) So in my mind the choice now is really between 16g and HTA68. Let your budget tell you which is right for your situation.

Get the down pipe, tmic and a decent stage 2 tune. It will get you 90% of what you want. Then you can plan from there. If your tuning twice that's the way to do it. I'd never knock bryan's products, but learning the tune process if your getting an etune and enjoying a good stage 2 is a good stepping stone...

You want the 16g if your sticking to stock injectors. Skip the tgv delete. I did it, but it's money and a pain for not much gain.

When I went stage 2, third gear was my favorite. Power when wanted was easy in third. Stage 3 with 16g, and fourth gear is like that now. Third is awesome. Coming home I ran it up to 6k, and it was still pulling very nicely... The 16g is the jack of all trades, low mid, and high. I've got about every mod except headers and fmic: Cobb intake, inlet, avo tmic, injecters, x-pipe, up, Cobb dp, catback. In my book the 16g rocks. If you like turbo slingshot, then go bigger. If you want good power all over the place go 16g. My transmission is probably very happy that I can't get e85. YMMV...

Yes that's 93 pump. No E85 here, although I could gain some with the 650's with it. 750's + would be better choice if your going corn. I edited my last post, fyi.

^only on the top end. Since the 16g is all about low to mid range unless you really wind your car up you'll likely not be missing much. Having said that I have a 16gBNR with 650cc inj on 93, and it does not drop off to redline. Not saying it pulls hard above 5k, just it doesnt fall flat like the vf40 did. Edit: I've got plenty of head room with the 650's and a AVO pump. My clutch doesn't like it when I really start let the 16g shine. Day to day it's fine, but hard downshift or pull and I get the stink. I've got a new clutch masters set up to go in but few more projects to get through. I literally could get another 10k+ out of my stock clutch as long as I don't push the limit. I'm at 89k now, 30k on the BNR16g and infamous tune.

I'd still clean up grounds if you have not already. Also contact cleaner on the coil connections and re-test the spark. Then you might decide what if any new coil would be best at that point. Sounds like you on the right track! Good luck with the "new" subaru! I've always liked the "snowfakes".

^ yep Pull your plugs and see what they look like. Use a meter to check plug wires. Replace those with OEM as necessary. New air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Clean up all the ground leads you can find. Pull codes and make sure nothing is stored as well. I always like to get back to zero before spending money on mods.

Drove the 93 home today. Still need to swap struts and get an alignment. Really want to burn through the 1/3 tank of old gas. So decided to drive her. First time I've ever driven it more than one mile...

Fredbeans parts list both the 200 & 300 at the same price if I'm remembering correctly... Not sure how that effects my decision at this point..

I'm creeping up on having to replace my clutch. I'm running a 16gBNR with a healthy mod list and infamous1 tune. I don't "launch" my car or abuse it too much. Mostly drive like an old man. Looking for a nice long term solution and like what I have read about the Clutchmaster product. I'm at ~85k now and have started seeing some high stress slip. Looks like from the info in this thread: 15-106-HD00-SF ...525 lbs 15-106-HDTZ-SF ...595 lbs 15-106-HDCB4-SF ...655 lbs I should be fine with the CM100, since there is no E85 near me. Is there any compelling reason to step up to the CM200 or 300?

http://www.megasquirt.info/

Most tuners don't like the SPT intake, fyi. I'd stay out of boost till your tuned.

Fixed the Powersteering line leak I had in the high pressure line after install of new rack. Also got the twist tie bracket back on to hold O2 sensor lead away from the axle. Might get some photos up later.

Sunday: replaced driver's side balljoint. Topped fluids and attempted to charge old battery. No luck there. Reconnected all the little things to the engine. put old header back on for now. Realized I forgot to put the little twist tie thingy back on the lower right belhousing stud to hold the O2 sensor lead away from the half shaft. Damn. Today: new battery in and cranked her up. First time the car has run in several months. Will look into having someone weld up the exhaust for me sometime this week.