JoeFromPA

Everytime I'm at Home depot I take a look at the washers and think 'Stage 1 hogzaust' and then I remember that I don't know what size washers to get. I deliberately keep myself from looking it up Joe

Non smurf juice??? That's concerning....I've seen some WRX owners report positive things with AMSOIL gear oils, but that is definitely worrisome to hear. Argh, I just got pushed back into the Extra-S arena. My natural inclination is to try something new to help expand the knowledge base, but not at the sacrifice of personal happiness Joe

Here's a link showing the old and new SAE specs for 75w90 and 75w110: http://www.lubrizol.com/products/automotive-gear-oil/J306.asp Basically, 75w90 used to have a kinematic minimum viscosity of 13.5 and maximum of 24.0....now 75w90 is 13.5 min and 18.5 max and 75w110 is 18.5 min and 24.0 max. Essentially, 75w110 is the same as the old 75w90 but must fall within the higher range of the old specs. Our subies tend to be clunky in the drivetrain and I'm sure put ALOT more pressure on the lubes we use, than, say, my 06 Civic. So I want something a little thicker. I made the decision this weekend to pickup some 75w110. I'll swap it out and report. Joe

FYI 75w110 is the new correct rating for 75w90; it's within the same viscosity rating as the old 75w90 however it is towards the higher end when warm (thereby providing better protection at operating temp). Joe

Now I'm a little torn about this whole thing....I can go the el-cheapo route and get the stock crap out earlier...and I like Supertech. They make good, middle-range products for very little money. And if I don't like it, $20 to flush the original crap out of the trans and diff is kind of a plus.... But there's also AMSOIL 75w110 (which I don't think any Subaru owners have tried), about the same price as Extra-S. And then there's Extra-S....the tried and true. Hrmmmm... Joe

Just out of curiosity, wouldn't the need to rev up to 1700-2000 rpms each time you go into 1st gear reduce clutch life a fair amount? Joe

That's fine, it's a re-usable engine air filter. I'll get it just for that. If I want a cat-back sound, I'll go hog-zaust. Otherwise, a de-catted DP (probably just one cat) is the only exhaust mod I see in my future Joe

Personally, I'm going with an AVO dry panel filter. Supposedly gives you the benefit of a louder intake noise (which I like for rev-matching and engine feel purposes) with maybe a slight decrease in air-flow resistance in the stock intake. Plus it's reusuable and cheap. Joe P.s. Godwhomismike - Perhaps the SPT intake simply heatsoaked you more, and you are feeling the effects of a cooler intake charge? From what I understand, the SPT intake basically draws air from the back of the engine bay, not exactly a cool-air place.

Those same engineers didn't build an engine that'll run forever, so why trust their oil judgement? In all seriousness, the factory recommended oil weight is not 5w30. It's a range based upon the ambient temperatures you operate in. 5w30 just happens to fit within the range most people use. On the same note: if you are tracking the car, you should probably run 15w50. If you are operating in the arctic, 0w30 at the heaviest. If you like to drive your car hard, often, a 0w40 or 5w40 would probably be a good bet. The engineer/owners manual creators try to pick a one-size-fits-all....but with some knowledge, you can pick a one-size-fits-you Joe

Where do you guys find the money? Seriously people. I make a decent living, don't have alot of expenses, and I'm boggled Of course, I do plan on spending around ~$1000 on the car this year alone and it's brand new (sway bars ($380), short shifter ($135), shift knob($50), tint 9$200). And then eventually a gutted DP and AP... Actually though, looking back, I think some people are including brake pads/rotors, flywheels and clutches, and tires....those are "maintenance" items Joe