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Mortal2None

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Posts posted by Mortal2None

  1. Hmm,

     

    I don't think it's the engine shuddering but that's something to look into. It feels like it's coming from the transmission. (and only when the converter is locked and the RPM's are under 2400) I'll see if I can get it to replicate the issue with the car locked in 3rd gear. (Happened to me twice in traffic rolling along at 25-30MPH) The whole car shakes violently. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened.

     

    It happened again today and I think one of the rear wheels is binding. (Passenger side, shaking is from the rear of the car) It happened coming from a stop making a left turn. Could be time for a new diff which is weird the oil was perfect with no particulate in it when I serviced it 10K ago. Fortunately the car is still under the 5Y/60K drivetrain until March 3. Problem is the issue is not replicable.

     

    I might also try an ECU reset as it might be the VDC? Does the TCU also control the VDC?

  2. Hmm,

     

    I don't think it's the engine shuddering but that's something to look into. It feels like it's coming from the transmission. (and only when the converter is locked and the RPM's are under 2400) I'll see if I can get it to replicate the issue with the car locked in 3rd gear. (Happened to me twice in traffic rolling along at 25-30MPH) The whole car shakes violently. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened.

  3. Don't over analyze it.

    For a healthy transmission (no burned clutch packs, no case hardened steels, all tolerances in good spec), you're going to do all the damage during a shift. It is the exact same rule for MT cars' single clutch @ flywheel. If you never shift, then the static bind is very strong, and will last forever.

     

    I think too much torque (T/S VF's will do that) down low is even too much for the "static bind". I'm thinking its either the TCC or the clutch packs but sometimes giving it gas in D and very low RPM's I'm betting a bad shudder out of the tranny. I'm 90% sure its the lock up clutch in the TC though. it's never happened when the converter was at stall speed. (The motor boat effect)

     

    I'm also wondering if the line pressure is insufficient at under 2200 RPM. (I don't know what RPM the 5EAT pump is supplying max pressure)

     

    The other possibility is my tranny is no longer healthy but I have a feeling I'm going to find out in the very near future. I'm going to look into getting a modded torque converter with a HD lock up clutch. (Hopefully its an option and maybe the Nissan one will swap over)

  4. Hey I am a nubie in Queens NY. Where do you get your dyno/tuning done at? and what does it accomplish and /or cost?

     

    There are a bunch of excellent tuners in our area. I took advantage of a Dyno day with Clark Turner and Dave Brown of Performance Auto Solutions. (Formerly MSPT) There is also EFI logics in Bethel Ct. which is very close. Dyno tunes can cost anywhere from $350-$600 depending on the tuner and the number of maps being done. (Track/e85/econo/etc.)

     

    It will let you get the most out of the mods of the car depending on the skill of the tuner. You can also do an e-tune as well which will require a bit more interaction on your part but is usually a lot cheaper.

  5. Wow you like a firm shift! Sorry to say it's going to learn to be a little softer once it settles. Mine can't chirp tires, though occassionally when I am demonstrating after shocks (when you let off the gas after WOT, but the TCU stupidly still keeps up line pressure for several seconds, and the shift hits hard for no reason) then I can get the car to bounce from a shift. But when you learn to avoid these situations, it's fine. Please keep us updated.

     

    Yes I have had a few of the "aftershock" issues already but the stock VB has done the same thing if I remember with a lot less "bump" :)

     

    Around town it has very good manners. I haven't tried manual mode yet. Been sick so I haven't had too much time to drive yet. I love the fast shifts. No more "slop" so far.

  6. ^uh?

    its fmic

    the scoop is now only there to blow some cool air onto the turbo and other hotstuff.

     

    and i did this mod because i had intake manifold, rad cap and fuel rail exposed. and i dont want a giant wrx scoop. this should end up being some what subtle and stock ish appearance

     

    BUT i do think it does flow air better this way tho but i have no data to back it up

     

    Oops,

     

    Forgot about that one point. (FMIC) still an interesting concept for us remaining TMIC'ers since you can essentially mimic the new WRX scoop with your method.

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