SeeeeeYa

I just did this today. I have two thin washers on each bolt creating about a 3mm gap.

 

It's now got quite a nice little grumble, which I think is helping me drive a bit smoother.

 

Didn't cost me anything and took hardly any time so I'm stoked.

You got it.

I think this is perhaps the most "useful" part of any exhaust that allows one to hear the engine work. A long time ago I had an exhaust break off just before the muffler. I was sure I'd get pulled over so I drove with that very loud exhaust sound in mind. I replaced the exhaust about a week later, but in the meantime I realized how important to my driving that outrageous sound had been. My shifting improved and my MPG improved. I became a better driver.

That was why I did the Hog-zawst to my 05 LGT when this mod came out. All I wanted was a little more contact with the engine. A couple washers later and I had it. Later I got a lot more mods and a big exhaust, but I kept using this mod until my other mods required the bigger exhaust.

Do these add ANY performance whatsoever? Even with a tune?

In a word; no.

You're probably right, but this is America.

 

Last pair I had on this car, Yokohama's, handled pretty well and now have 50K and aren't in desperate need of replacing.

 

Oh yeah, now I see. I figured somebody like you would reply, LOL.

 

Ok, I'll just order 'em all and look at the sidewalls.

My bad. When I heard the words "good handling" I should have looked at the car. Your definition and mine, like our cars, are far apart. So, I responded inappropriately. Performance tires for me only last twelve to fourteen months.

Then I researched "directional" for a while, and learned a few things. For one, I had assumed (!) the Dunlop SP Sport 600s that came on my STi were directional. But when I read their description on Tire Rack it said the tread was asymetrical... Then I looked at the tires on my car and it says "Outside" on the sidewall... so, not directional, but must be mounted with the "Outside" to the outside. A tire's description will contain words that reveal this, like "compound is molded into an asymmetric tread design that features stable outside shoulder blocks." Tires without this qualifier and just say asymetrical tread can be mounted how you like.

Personally, I have not rotated tires in many years... always wearing them out in a manner that rotation would not have helped, with equal wear across the treads. Further, while larger degrees of negative camber tend to wear the inside of, say, my STi's rear tires, it has been reported numerous places that rotation has its side effects... namely increased noise. This is common, and the reason I don't find value in rotating performance tires.

In your case, with your vehicle and your use, I can see where choice of tire would be important. When tires can go longer mileages rotating them is necessary for maximum life. In this case, reading the tire description will enable your correct choice of a fully asymetrical tread without orientation qualifiers.

Obviously, a website such as tirerack.com is a valuable resource for this information.

Anybody know how to tell if a tire is "directional" at the TireRack website ? I can't even seem to figure it out at the manufacturer's site. I'm mainly interested in Yoko AVID Envigor, Conti Max Contact DWS, Bridgestone Turanza Serenity, and the several Kumho Ecsta.

 

And of course I'd appreciate any advice on these. I'd like to get at least 40K miles, but want good handling too. Snow/ice not much of an issue.

Personally, I think you want to have your cake and eat it, too.

I've never had a good tire, that handled well and did everything I wanted from it, that had much more than a year's worth of wear... certainly never 40k miles.

One would have to drive like a pussy to get that kind of mileage from a good handling tire... IMO.

As for "directional," a tire with a specific directional orientation is marked on the side of the tire.

 

Among many others:

 

http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com/catalog-selectcategory.php?make=42

 

The customer is always right!

 

By no means am I bashing on you or your product. Just nitpicking on the product name.

 

Also, there's an a in ammunition

Obviously, drugs... because everyone knows the NAME of a product, is not the DEFINITION of a product. Otherwise Ford, for example, would have a lot of trouble with Mustang, Sable, and the rest. Eh?

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=troll

When I named this The BulletProof-TMIC Mod I anticipated this exact disruptive conversation. Notice how it is written. It is a NAME, not a sentence.

And I hate to burst bubbles, but... the customer is NOT always right. People who think so have spent too much time in front of the counter, and none behind it.

So is it really "bulletproof"?

You've not kept up.

In terms of boost, yes.

You're correct--08+ WRX's have the same intercooler I believe. That community (or rather the leadership of that community) has been "against" this modification for apparent vendor reasons. If this modification makes it's way to the nasioc community, it's going to have to do so organically. Making a post like this to generate interest would not fly over there. I'm not interested in ruffling feathers...yet

 

If you know someone that can benefit from this, certainly point them this way.

I owe them a ruffle or two.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37624564&posted=1#post37624564

Doesn't this kit work for more than just the 05-09 LGT? I seem to remember SeeYa doing it on his current generation WRX. Would it be worth reaching out to some of those owners as well?

Although they deleted my major thread, one started by someone else has survived. I posted in it and there are already people asking about a kit.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37624564&posted=1#post37624564

For the BP Mod files go here.

I have provided them on my wife's ftp site. This way they are available to everyone at anytime.

Some of these files have been graciously made by members here. As this project becomes more refined, such as with zipties and the rail modifications to support them, drawings may need to be created/altered to reflect those changes. When that happens, and such files are refined for publication, just contact me and I will place them on the website.

These developments are what I envisioned from the beginning, but better. With the collective mind here at work the BulletProof TMIC Mod has and will continue to evolve to support what I believe is the very best TMIC for the applicable platform, as a Daily Driver.

Way to go LegacyGT.com.

Check this out, some great pics of the zip tie use: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3824153&postcount=316

Excellence.

I took my BP'd TMIC off this weekend, took the threaded rods off, cuts the ends off, cut notches in the ends, and used SS zip ties. Looks better, and doesn't interfere with the BPV hose anymore....

 

If you are going to have a machine ship make some, make'em with notches for SS zip ties.

Best solution so far IMO.

SOURCE/spec said zipties please.

I've been talking to a local machine shop to actually make a bunch of the kits. If Seeeeya OK's me getting these made and there is enough interest, I may pull the trigger and have them do a run.

 

If you're interested, shoot me a PM and I'll keep a list going. Price for the kit would be right around $50 and the kit would include all of the necessary aluminum pieces with holes predrilled for you. You would have to buy your own hardware (screws, nuts, threaded rod, whatever). If you wanted a specific size hole for using different types of hardware I should be able to "drill them to order".

 

If I'm doing something against the forum rules here or if SeeeeYa doesn't want me doing this since it's his design, just let me know. Otherwise, tell me if you're interested in a kit.

I am without internet so I will be brief.

If you could do this it would be with my total blessings. From the beginning it was my intention to provide our community with an option too long denied. Nastysock tried to bury it and failed. Legacygt.com has been the nurturing nest, it would be great to see this finally take flight.

Eh I wouldn't call it rice.

 

I think it's sort of a cool thing to do for a temporary use until you can buy an true CBE or have one made up. I wouldn't see doing this with the intention of leaving it for a long time.

This...^^

But, be forewarned; for many this is the first bite of The Forbidden Fruit.

The Slippery Slope is but a step away.

Hoggers is the devil himself.

Now you see why I never suggested the nibbler before. After trying it I decided the Dremel, while slow and also inexact, (my original method anyway) it was a better choice and I had no neighbors to worry about. After the first one I made a number using table and miter saws. I think the new Dremel and attachment is a good option for individuals.

But you got it done. Your TMIC is BulletProof now. Your experience will serve as another example for others in a similar situation. Thanks for your candor and open willingness to share.

So I went out and bought a nibbler. Damn...i did one rail and my hand is really sore. It works...but it leaves little "burrs" on the metal if you will.

That's where the file comes in... and gives you even more hand exercises.

It will all be worth it when you're done.

You are also going to be the first to craft the B P Mod using this method.

Nice. Glad to hear the end result was good. I had to file some corners on the intercooler as well.

 

Ripping an 8' piece of aluminum channel on a table saw is ******* scary!!! :eek: But worth it? Because intercoolers be expensive

That's how I did it... but with a jig I built. I used 4 foot lengths, and after scribing the final dimensions on it (remember saw-cut allowances ), and drilling all the holes, I used the holes to screw the aluminum U-ch onto a 2x2 which I then used the table saw (carbide fine-tooth blade) to cut. It was still scary and still not easy, but far safer and with great results. I used a similar blade in my 10" miter saw for the other cuts.

Man does it make a mess. A year after the last kit was made I still find little aluminum bits here and there.

One of the things I've thought of, and verified it "could" be done, is to use a nibbler... but you would have to score a line and nibble right to it then file it smooth. It will take a while for sure, but it will be quiet and get it done. Radio Shack, among others, still sells nibblers, I checked sometime in the past couple of weeks. Those dimensions are important to the viability of the mod, so maintain them.

In a pinch you can finish just the two long rails on the turbo-side and install them first. That will provide 90% of the security. Then as soon as you can finish and install the rest.

You know what a nibbler is, right? I forgot, Google answers all. I've been using a hand nibbler for odd jobs nearly my whole life. They aren't the most sophisticated tool, but a lot depends on the user. Take your time and you can do a good job.

Good for you!! Got right onto it, that's the way to do it. I'm certain it will work. Mine is always close by. Too many times I've been up against a problem, then found it solved by my nibbler.

I'm not sure what impresses me most... your excellent work or how clean your engine is.

You guys constantly amaze me with your skills.

Where did you get the SS zip ties? I didn't realize they made those.

 

I ran into the same issues on the BPV side - as soon as I TRIED to install, I realized it was going to rub, and took that side off. SeeeeYa didn't want to believe me, but I know what my eyes saw..

 

It is important to note that the problem was greatly exacerbated because of using a LARGE bolt. Secondly, from the photo, the shrink tubing was not properly shrunk onto the bolt.

 

Further, the "bolt" on that side in the kit I supplied was ground flat facing the recirc hose... THEN shrink wrap properly installed. This way the bolt's intrusion into the clearance was very minimal AND there are NO threads to abrade the recirc hose. Those with this system installed have never had an issue.

 

Some SS zip ties would be a good idea for that side. Also, if I had MAD fabrication skills (I wish!), I've thought about extending the brackets on one side and using rivets or a bolt (like a hinge) to attach the top piece to the side piece in the front, and another on the bottom. Then you'd just have to rotate the two longer pieces into place and close up at the back where there's plenty of room

 

My first iteration of this mod involved precisely this idea... it did not work, however.

 

One, there is simply too much "stuff" under the TMIC on the driver's side to allow passage of the rail, and I screwed the TMIC's fins up in the process of installing it. Later I had to spend a lot of time straightening out those areas.

 

Secondly, the rails fit very tightly, and must be firmly tapped into place... even with the TMIC on a bench. It isn't possible to simply "wrap" a properly fitting rail system onto the TMIC. I know, I tried. In the end I had to remove my TMIC, fix the fins, then properly tap the rails into place, and tighten the bolts.

..

All that said, I am liking the SS zip-band idea a lot. It does the job, has no clearance issues, and looks good. This may wind up being the best solution to keeping the rails on the TMIC. Great work!

Inventive use of bolt hardware... but its larger diameter does present more thickness to deal with. You shouldn't have a problem with the recirc hose because of interference, however, the shrink wrap lets things slide instead of abrade.

There you go... one more. One more BulletProofed Intercooler, one more variation on a theme.

Boost is now your friend instead of adversary.

Crapton more trackdays at 20psi. Holding like a champ. Nuff said!

That's what I'm talking about.

VERY clever! Turnbuckle... standard screws and improves top clearance, but may present a clearance issue at BOV Recirc Hose? Still, one more variation, one more new idea.

Most importantly, one more BulletProofed TMIC.

Bring on the power. Intercooler is ready.

Great thinking! Excellent work!

One more variation on a theme, another door opens.

Concept critical mass has been achieved.