Andyjo

Anyone know the wire size off the top of their head? going to get some servo wire to re-wire the mobile part with.

13fido13, aren't you worried about the solder joints breaking? At work we usually crimp things, because a soldered/tinned wire is more likely to break. Just a thought, looks good though!

I'll add to the fire... I think i'm going to make a small harness between the main body and tailgate w/ connectors so if it ever happens again i just replace the wires in the little harness...

Minimum order... 1,000? Once i get my act together (read: newborn ) i'll be getting a few Anyone in NH/MA need some to save the $4 on shipping?

Sounds like i'm going to get a little OCD myself and re-wire the whole thing... ;-)

After reading this, I locked my car, walked over to the hatch and opened it... Alarm goes crazy... Apparently my lock wire is unhappy.... :/ and my radio sucks compared to my wife's car... But I'm assuming that's a coax cable up to the front? I think that issue is a nicked trace

Sounds like you might be in the market for a new short block too of you keep it up....

Not that is would help your situation.. but what about an "open source" solution -- "this is what you need, and where to get it" obviously people would run into minimum order quantities etc... just a thought, i'd still get it from you m spank ;-)

That sucks man, i scratched my head for a few minutes when i first got into it, but it all made sense after 1) reading the instructions and 2) looking through the link provided in the instructions. Perhaps another sticky on the forum w/ more pictures would help? I dunno, I'm in the mindset that if you can't figure out where it goes/how to install it w/ the provided information.. you might not be qualified to be installing it in the first place I have a ton of pics from my install i could post somewhere, and can get a few more if you need them to help out w/ the 'tech support' aspect of thing And those who want prettier packaging... geeze.... :spin:

I may be mistaken, but i think a few vendors on the board may still have some in-stock Ask Underdog, he might?

Check the turbo oil return line, i had that issue after installing my new turbo, ended up just throwing a hose clamp on it along w/ the stock clamp. If you get a leak there it can drip right on the UP. You might also see a little oil on the bottom edge of the head, since that's where it would end up if wind didn't help it drop onto the UP. You can get a good look at it from behind the half shaft, face against the DP Getting your hand in there to put a clamp on it... well.. that just sucks

Just checked my VF40, the CHRA is square to the turbine inlet

I ended up w/ wiseco pistons, yes on cold start up the slap around a bit, but when everything is warmed up you can't even tell. I'd say it's quieter than the stock setup (but i new new exhaust valves too.. that might help a little)

More for your pleasure

Nope, i could do it w/ the OEM one, but the BNR one is stuffed in my engine pay right now

When you loosen the band, you're technically rotating the turbine housing, whichever way you look at it, has the same effect in the end

Sorry if i said it oddly, i rotated the turbine housing, by loosening the clamp, and turning it the... 2 degrees or whatever it took, felt like it could rotate alot more, but we didn't try. It did not appear to be pinned (otherwise it wouldn't have turned). I didn't have to take the clamp off, or really loosen the nut that much, was very easy once it was loose. I'm not worried about a boost leak, since i didn't actually touch the compressor to turbo-goodness section ;-)

Bryan, We indicated the stock (VF40) turbo, from the turbine inlet to the compressor exhaust, and found the planes to be parallel within 1 thousands of an inch. Did the same w/ the 16g, not even close, so we setup some blocks, loosened the clamp and re-clocked the compressor housing (i guess technically it's clocking the turbine housing, but either way). http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo1_zpsee2a3e9c.jpg http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo2_zps28fd48ec.jpg Fixed: http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/photo3_zps15abdd0e.jpg So.. those looking for 'fix' the clocking issue, get a VERY FLAT surface (Table saw top, granite countertop, something like that), and use a square (or precision ground blocks ) to re-align the housing. The bolt on the clamp is 13mm. Not sure what the toque spec is, but just eyeballed the amount of thread sticking out the top. Edit: Torque is ~10ft-lbs (at least that's what my wrench says to get the right 'thread showing'

TheBlackPearl, what was your final solution? just crank on the TMIC till it fit? Bryan, on mine there is a 0.65" raise on the TMIC on the LH side of the TMIC, the TMIC is ~16.5" long, so we're looking at a 2.25 degree counter clockwise rotation (looking from the back of the turbo to the front) http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/TMIC_Bracket_dimensioned_zps7a9c3c1c.jpg So, is the compressor housing pinned? should we be able to re-clock the housing ourselves?

Huh... funny enough, it sort of does! http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/2046_zps00332a6a.jpg Same here, dealer had one. Thanks Underdog for finding the part number for me ;-)

Any chance I could get one even post-sale? It's all good, through the whole cutting, and bending crap, i blamed the water pipe, not the turbo. Subaru should have known better

What is THIS part number?

Alright, since i couldn't find how to do this anywhere online i will include all of the search terms i tried... so someone else in my situation can find this. TO REMOVE THE OUTER CV JOINT: There is a splined section with a snap ring on it. Take the half shaft out, clamp the shaft in a vice, and use a large socket extension (3/4" is nice) and smack it with a large hammer a few times. You won't be able to find a large snap ring like inner CV, because there's isn't one there!

Did this today, had been meaning to for about a year Ran a line from the mid-car dome to the front, two radio shack diodes. swaped the tabs in the front dome connecter, A little solder, heat shrink and some 'cramming the wires between the metal and plastic' and it works! As for the 'how to swap the connector pins' -- on the connector there is an E shaped plastic thing on the bottom, pry that out, then you can get a good angle at the tabs holding the pins in, just pull the tab down with a tiny screw driver and the pin should slide right out. Swap the wire positions, put the E back in, and you're good to go. Next is the LEDs in the cup holder......

I rolled over to albany from boston yesterday, saw a few: Blue LGT wagon, dude driving it, I90W by the Lee Plaza, i would have played but i was getting off at le to get gas before NY. ALSO Red LGT LTD, first got whim of him after getting into NY, at the 1st toll (this is still on I90W), all the way into Albany, on I90 I was driving the lowered black OBXT.... anyone?