bluesuby

The original Extra-S was the best stuff, the new Subaru gear oil is not the same.

 

The Amsoil Sever-Gear is pretty good too. Though I seem to have not had the best luck using it.

 

Another hint, when you fill the tranny, do it slowly. or it comes back out the fill tube. I fill my suction gun and push it in slowly.

 

Thanks for all the info. I never had the fill tube back up. The funnel with flex tubing I use is a tight fit down the tranny filler. I don't think there's room for anything to come back up....it just goes down so slowly. I rigged up a coat hanger with the funnel to have it hanging under the hood like a hospital IV.

 

AZP lists Motul for $18/litre. I'll be up there in a month or so. Maybe that's easiest.

I'm looking for manual gearbox oil. Years ago I went with Redline 75-90 NS and was very happy. I tried Subaru's gear oil and found it to be not so good. I made the mistake of thinking all their gear oil was the highly praised Extra-S which was apparently only available in large drums or repackaged by bootleggers. Last I heard, it's not around anymore. On Amazon there's Redline 75-90 NS in gallon containers for a little over $60 with free shipping. When checking the "does this fit your car" inquiry, Amazon claims it's not for my car. I thought this oil worked great and the NS is formulated for cars like mine because it is better for the synchros. Is Amazon misguided on this? Or as Charlie Manson once said....is it getting cold or am I crazy?

I initially bought a PCV valve for my 2005 LGT wagon, but after reading warnings regarding what a pain it is to attempt replacement of just the PCV, I bought Subaru part 11815AB790 "Hose Assy-PCV" which includes all the hoses etc, even the required clamps.

I'm saying constantly smoking out the tailpipe while driving is serious, That would be blown. Consuming some oil is just a common thing in a worn engine.

My brothers forester burns a quart every 350 miles! His engine had a head gasket job done but didn't change any valve seals or anything like that(previous owner..) We're doing the same pcv delete and changing oil regularly till I have time to swap the engine.

You need to remove the PCV and add a new fitting or hollow out your valve. Remove the breath hoses off the air box. the ones that run from the valve covers.

 

Why not just buy a new PCV?

I've been using Mobil 1 filters because hey are a discount deal with Mobil1 oil (extended performance). That being said, the filter and oil are always changed well within a very conservative interval. Why would you leave dirty oil in the engine and worry about gumming up the banjo bolts?

And can someone tell me about the benefits of an anti-drainback valve on a filter used in a Subaru? If the filter is hanging upside down off the engine, wouldn't gravity take care of making sure the filter is always full?

Happens every time I step on the gas enough to get the car going then goes away. Same when going straight or turning. Exhaust seems to be hanging normally. I noticed the rubber is cracked on a bushing on the rear diff mounting bracket but otherwise looks ok (although oily, cant find where the oil is coming from). Could this bushing be causing the noise?

 

The bushings on the differential cradle are oil filled. I caught the problem early, but the cradle itself was rotted so that may need replacement as well. Have a sniff of the oil. If it's gear oil from the diff it'll smell of sulfur. If the oil leaves stains on the driveway which refuse to go away, it's likely the bushings.

The only leak I have ever had is the valve cover gaskets after 160,000 miles. Pretty obvious problem to detect with some smoke and stink as a clue.

One end plugs into the factory connector and the other end plugs into the bulb. The part you have is not meant to replace the factory wiring.

 

So where is the factory connector?

Anyone? HELP

Due to very hot weather, I had not tried to replace the wiring harness until today. I traced the "plug-in" end and the wiring disappears through a very small hole in the headlight assembly. Worse yet, even if I pull the housing apart, there are connectors on both ends of the harness, so how do you route the wiring through this small hole without cutting it and splicing it once the wire passes through. This can't be right....anyone have an explanation?

Thanks for the post. I had looked at aftermarket air filters back in 2005, but none looked like a good fit. I recently read some comments on the Advance Auto Parts site in which several posters said they were very happy with the Purolator One fit. I guess if I choose to try a Purolator out, it will be in the Advance parking lot.

Thank you all. The "Techsmart" harness I also found (later) on Rock Auto. It's a product of Standard who has been making quality ignition/electrical parts for years. I'm looking for something I can trust. Cost is not a factor. I think Dorman has a lot of parts but they are just repackaging parts from other manufacturers.

The terminal tension feels ok, but what is upsetting is how the bulb lights up by manipulating the harness. I'm thinking a broken or faulty wire concealed by insulation.

2005 LGT Wagon. A few years ago I upgraded my stock H7 bulbs with 55 watt "off road" bulbs from Phillips. Unfortunately, one buib socket suffered a meltdown. The online vendor helped by recommending a replacement socket made to withstand high temperatures. The replacement required cutting the wires at the socket and attaching brass terminals (I included soldering the terminals in addition to the wrap-around tabs) which are concealed inside the replacement socket. Result is a push on-pull off socket which plugs onto the H7 terminals.

Everything was fine until today when I thought my bulb had burned out. I found that the bulb is ok, and by arranging the wires by pulling them apart gently got the bulb to stay lit. I know this will not last and will fail some night not Winter when it's really cold outside.

I found a replacement harness in Advance and Auto Zone. Both are rated for higher temperatures, but since they are not stocked in local stores I need help.

Advance sells a "Techsmart harness" part # F90007" which is an 8" length with "female" fitting on one end (for the terminals on the H7 bulb) and a pair of "male" fittings on the other end which are for connecting to the main harness. They appear rather large and I cannot locate any connection which would accommodate them.

Auto Zone sells a Dorman 645-994 which lacks a good description. It looks like a pair of female connections on one end of the wiring but the photo of the other end doesn't show much. Their online help with repairs is down now and doesn't seem promising.

The Dorman is twice the price of the Techsmart (17.99 versus 8.99) but this could be a case of not getting the best part based on price.

I need help. If anyone can walk me through the harness replacement, and if anyone has comments on either or both options I certainly appreciate any/all comments.

That's a pretty serious penalty for that crime in Europe.

 

In the USA tax cheats are recruited by hedge funds or wall street.

Blizzaks use 2 different rubber compounds. The base tread is lets call normal rubber. Then they add the ice gripper rubber to double the tread depth to make a typical depth tire.

I see ads with tires near half worn all the time as those that need them go buy a new set.

Being cheap when my wear down they just became summer tires and they would be worn out by fall when I got new ones

 

I know this was true years ago, but I'm not sure Bridgestone still uses two compounds making the winter use ineffective after tires are half worn.

Yeah, I love Invisible Glass.

 

Why do I want a composite ratcheting wrench? Don't think I own one of those.

 

The price is right and you get a "click" with every 5 degrees rotation. Harbor Freight does sell some questionable stuff, but I found "Made in Taiwan" means it's a lot better than made in China.

If you live near a Harbor Freight store, check out the coupons for free microfiber cloths. The deal is buy something else and get the towels free. I recommend the purchase of composite ratchet wrench. Less than $10 and you can use the 20% off coupon to get a better deal. 72 teeth means a click every 5 degrees of rotation. Works great in tight spots.

When the rocker arm covers start leaking oil, the smell of burning oil can be confused with exhaust.

I'm thinking about the new wagon Buick will be importing from Germany this Fall. Priced in the mid $30s and a real automatic transmission. No CVT for me.

Anyone else get this letter?

 

That wouldn't help me. I keep cars for 150k or more. Replacing a transmission at 110k (at my expense) isn't a plan.

**** I missed the deadline

 

Call SOA Customer Relations. There isn't a cut-off for a lot of things they know are a problem. Don't listen to the dealer. Go right to the top.

Great post. I was working on removing it 2 weeks ago when I had the TMIC off, but when I got to removing to the bottom bolt, I gave up. Very difficult to get a good angle from the top and be able to apply the torque needed to break loose the bolt. Didn't have the time to jack the car up either. Definitely something I'll work on next time around.

 

I found that reaching the bottom bolt was virtually impossible from above. I supported the front drivers side with a jack stand and was able to use a long extension on a 6 point 14mm socket. These bolts look soft and I didn't want to round off the head. Removal of the starter can easily be done from up top contrary to some reports that the starter must be dropped out the bottom. When refitting the new starter you can insert the bottom bolt from up top (insert the top bolt first so the starter is secured) and just go underneath briefly to put the final torque on that bottom bolt.

Here's a couple of questions I have:

 

2005 Legacy GT

1999 Outback

 

1) It's only the passenger airbag in the LGT, is the driver airbag not Takata? How do I know that's safe? Many of the news deaths have been driver airbags.

2) If the replacement is Takata, how can I know that's safe? They haven't been very forthcoming with information.

3) My 1999 isn't on the recall list, but the 2005 wasn't initially either. How do I know that one is not a timebomb?

 

I'm suspicious of the whole deal. I own a 2005 LGT Wagon and only the passenger side is recalled. My recall letter says don't let anyone ride in the front passenger seat.

Friend owns a 2006 Mazda 6. Mazda says they are recalling both airbags. Mazda doesn't warn anyone about riding in either seat. I'm thinking their lawyers are weighing the cost of providing a loaner car until the airbags can be replaced versus paying for a couple deaths/mutilations which might result.

So are we convinced Subaru driver side airbags are ok? Only one way to find out but I'm hoping that won't happen.

You too? I keep my spare set of cylinder heads on my key ring so when I'm at the track, I have them If I need them.

 

Once you get them back in your pocket the ladies are impressed.

I don't know if ammonium nitrate is explosion trouble unless it's mixed with something else. It's also known as urea, a nitrogen based fertilizer, can be used as snow melt (non corrosive to the air frames of planes but downside is it will lift the paint on concrete), a feed grade product for cattle, and most recently in diesels to clean up the exhaust emissions (expendable product to be refilled at maintenance intervals).

I thought early airbags used sodium azide but that's no good for you either.