rodan

I did everything by the numbers per the FM instructions when I installed the FM clutch in my NA. I didn't bother with any of my NB installs, though I did check to see that it was fully releasing (slight play in the slave rod). Worked fine in all cases.

Looking good. It's amazing how all the little things add up to a lot of time...

So a while back, I posted how I was using my phone with the MSDroid app to display coolant temp, until something better came along. Well, something better has come along! PerfectTuning has developed a multifunction gauge that mounts in a std 52mm panel, and displays almost anything your MS3 can output. It communicates over CAN, and has the ability to display multiple parameters, and has warnings as well... I don't know if it will embed properly, but this YT video shows the gauge in action: I ordered the gauge, and it showed up last week. Yesterday, I got it installed in my center panel. I also added a momentary button switch below the AFR gauge to activate the on-board datalogging function on the MS3. I'm just waiting for an LED indicator for the datalogging to show up to complete the install. It should be here tomorrow. More to come...

I can vouch for that part not being fun...

The track time sold out almost as fast as Miatas at MRLS... they've since added another track day (Wednesday), which I think still has some openings...

External Torx or 12 point? I know the head bolts are 12 point...

That'll be a nice, quick turnaround. I ordered up some Storm S1s today. Ended up getting them from Discount Tire due to their President's Day sale.... they matched the going price, and I got $130 in rebates.

We drove one back in '14 when we bought our '13 NC Club Miata. The interior was nicer than the Miata, and obviously the car is more practical. The engine in the Twins sucks. Not enough power, not as smooth, and just felt... unhappy. The Miata feels like it wants you to rev it. The Twins engine feels like you should be mowing a lawn with it. Obviously, the Twins handle well... they just need an engine designed for a sports car, not an Outback. Oh... the roof on the Twins doesn't come off.

That's the problem... I don't. Don't like the S2 at all... Right now it's between a set of Titanium S1s, or another set of Tungsten 6ULs. S1s are considerably cheaper for the set... I've got some guys coming over to look at NB parts in a little bit. I'm hoping to sell them my whole parts car. That may help me make up my mind...

That all looks very familiar... I really like the bronze wheels on black. I was thinking about bronze for my next set, but the 6UL bronze is more of an orange-gold, and Goodwin is out of Storm S1 in bronze... eh... 1st world problems.

Looks like the same, 40 year old engine hoist I have!

I'm running them on 15x9s. General consensus is 205s on 8s, 225s on 9s and 245s on 10s. 275 hoosiers on 6UL 15x11 for the total ballers out there... No reason you can't run 225s on 8s, though. You'll be sacrificing a little feel on turn-in, and maybe a little outright grip, as the sidewall is supported better on 9s.

I really want to do an NB2 conversion on my '99's front end... it's just so much prettier!

In other news, my 'street' wheels (15x8 Konig Flatouts) definitely don't fit with the new brakes. So, I might as well go up to 15x9 with the replacements... I actually haven't decided which wheels to go with yet, but the new 'street' rubber showed up today.... Rival S 2-18 by Rodan AZ, on Flickr Since these regularly go on backorder in the spring, I figured I better get the tires first. Wheels are easier. I sure wish RE71Rs came in 225/45-15... I really like them on the wife's NC, but the BFGs should do just fine. When I wear out the NT-01s on the 'track' wheels, they'll get replaced with either Maxxis RC1s or Toyo RRs. No more of this treaded tire nonsense...

If it's 'crazing' (tiny cracks in the plastic) you'll never get rid of it. Our 'Vette had that, and me attempting to restore them didn't do a thing...

Back in the mid 80s I got ahold of some WWII .45ACP ammo and shot a little bit of it. It was like shooting a flintlock: click.... BANG! click... BANG! click..................................BANG! It all went off, eventually, and it was pretty good for practicing trigger control, but I only shot about 10 rounds of it.

That NB looks pretty decent, though I'm not a fan of the color after seeing a few in person. It may even have sport brakes. If it could be had for ~$4000-4200, it would be a nice platform. I had another A,B,C day today... oil change and wash on the NC, took the NA to get diff oil for the NB, then changed the diff oil and washed the NB.

Yeah, read that today... I still think the 2.5 is a viable option, but I do agree that some of the expectations are a bit exaggerated by the folks making money off the swaps. In other news, signed up for FM Summer Camp this morning, it will be our sixth! Track time is already sold out... first time I remember that happening in less than 24 hours! In yet other news... this car is for sale close by: https://www.flyinmiata.com/V8/for_sale.html Too bad the convenience store clerk gave me the wrong lotto ticket... again!

The re-route is still a good idea on the 01-05 cars, you just have to use an earlier head gasket to remove the 'band aid' fix provided by the later head gasket in order to make the re-route fully effective.

Judging by the overhead hoist, and what looks like 'project' cars, it looks like he does his own work. That combined with an OBD trouble code he can't fix would lead me to look elsewhere. A quick search of P2187 shows 'lean idle'... some Miata.net threads suggested O2 sensor... I'd be leery... if it was simple, he probably would have fixed it.

The Ecotec has never appealed to me as a Miata swap... but the LFX/LFA is a totally different story!

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=522719

No. It's essentially the same engine as the stock 2.0. There are a few minor differences, but it's nearly as 'bolt-in' as a 1.8 in a 1.6 NA. Lots of info over on M.net. And the motors are cheap! I've been looking at the swap for our NC, and I've found motors under 10k miles for under $500. A stock NC makes ~140 at the wheels. The 2.5, with a header and tune, bumps that up to the 160s. With cams numbers are in the 180s. The big difference is the 2.5 makes a lot more torque than the 2.0, which really shows in street driving.

Chris already hit most of the points. NAs are light, have some additional cool factor, but require upgrades to get really interesting. They are also on the upswing in values, as it's getting harder to find clean, original cars, and prices are climbing. NBs are where the real value is right now. An NB2 ('01-05) has all the best stuff, but is a little heavier car. It's really the best place to start, as the car will be more capable than a stock NA. Also, the NBs are right at the bottom of the depreciation curve, so you can find some really good values. NCs ('05-15) are also starting to bottom out value wise, at least for the early cars. Buy a cheap, high mile NC and throw in a 2.5 motor, a relatively cheap and easy swap, and do some suspension work, and it'll outrun an NA/NB around a track. It's a pretty good platform, but the aftermarket is not as developed as for the early cars. Best value: Good NB2, add SS brake lines, good fluid and pads, shocks/springs, and good rubber, and you'll have an HPDE car that can punch well above it's weight. And it will be a really good learning tool with room for serious growth.

All in all, though... the result is FANTASTIC.