Enlight

6 hours ago, jaylew said:

Yeah gotta watch out for fatigue. Might I inquire more about this shed? I only ask because I just placed a lumber order to build my own 10x16 shed this coming weekend. We'll see how well it goes

Super bummer to hear this. Any reasonable excuse?

We bought a pre-fab aluminum shed so it was easier going than what you'll be doing. Most of the work actually went into building the platform.

Used my smoke machine for the first time and found a vacuum leak at my turbo inlet BPV hose. After reinstalling the intercooler, it looked like there was a smaller leak but it was coming out of the wiring harness? Didn't seem like it was coming from the throttle hose.

I left it for another day as a wave of sleepiness came over me. After helping a friend build a shed a few weeks back I've learned not to push myself when I'm tired. Many mistakes happen that way.

I tried installing a TrakMotive CV axle today but the inner joint popped out of its socket, don't know whether it's a common occurrence or not. Reinstalled my Raxles unit (which might not be bad after all) and also installed the pitch mount which might be the actual cause of the clunking. Tomorrow I will test for vacuum leaks.

That's interesting, so it looks like they have some of the battery monitoring functions the "smart" trickle charger built-in to the battery itself. As we already know, lead-acid batteries like to be stored full but lithium batteries do not.

I also have an Odyssey battery. I switched to Odyssey from Optima after I had a Red Top fail within 2 years.

As an aside (for those who still have lead acid batteries), Harbor Freight sells overcharge protected trickle chargers now for $10.00. I keep one on my Suburban so it's ready for snow duty.

All well taken! I was all for replacing with just a Type RA block until I grew weak at the sight of a "deal." Nothing more expensive than a good "deal."

6 hours ago, m sprank said:

How to make it last the longest, start it and never shut it down.

The goal is to simulate that with the heater (ignoring oil temperature, though if I angle its exhaust towards the oil pan that will also help). The heater is designed to heat coolant up to 185f/85c. That should be enough to get our needles out of the bottom red range ?

It's definitely overkill as EFI Logics told me over the phone. I live in zone 7A according to US Dept. of Agriculture. It's more of a n=1 experiment to test the upper limits of how long a forged engine can last. I couldn't find any information of similar undertakings on the internet. Without them, 2618 engines are expected to last less than 100k miles. According to this post, it's not the pistons themselves but the rings. The IAG Stage 2 Tuff also comes with 2618 alloy, which expands more than 4032. After this latest engine replacement I'm not eager to do it again any time soon.

A thought just occurred to me... installing the feed/returns on either side of an inline thermostat might be ideal. That should definitely create the longest path.

It is a forced hydronic heater so it does indeed have a pump. The manual says it can output 600l/h  and 0.15bar.

A diagram straight from our manual.

I plan on installing my coolant pre-heater in the near future and am considering which hoses to tap for the feed and return. The main idea is for the coolant to take the longest path it can in order to heat as much of the block as possible. I was thinking of tapping between the oil cooler and water pump for the feed and after the expansion tank for the return, but then it occurred to me that the water pump might impede the pre-heater since the engine won't be running.

I've thought about the coolant plug locations as well, but I am running a GDT Cylinder 4 Mod so that eliminates one plug. I also have a traditional block heater installed at the bottom of the short block.

I do have an IAG v3 AOS so those lines are also available to use.

Any ideas?

@KZJonny Let me know if you want me to bring any to ECM 2024

I just heard back from Mike at @AZP Installs that their shop uses TrakMotive. Their CV axles were $54.20 shipped from RockAuto . All the junkyard ones around me are a bit over $100. They have extended length axles as well. Will report back on how they work out.

I've been looking into NAPA's Premium Axles today (limited lifetime warranty) and came across their extended length axle which might interest you. I read that they're made by Cardone. Their axles of other grades have received mixed reviews on this forum and elsewhere, but it might be worth a shot for your specific application.

Of course, I should've been more specific. For the current ones, basically clicking and clunking that could be felt through the seat/chassis. Up and down shaft play. I believe it was the same for the first ones... it was quite a while ago. I do not hear the constant clicking while turning, though.

In Jan 2018, 5 years/11k miles ago, I replaced both my fronts with units from Raxles. The first ones they sent were no good. The owner was nice enough and sent me a second set, mentioning that they seem to run into issues with our model for some reason. I discovered this morning that my driver side has gone bad after sitting for about half a year. I have done some HPDEs  with my car, FWIW. May just go with salvage yard units if I'm going to go through these regularly.

I used this for an '05-'09 interior but it was a perfect match: DUPLICOLOR BGM0347. Perhaps you can go to an Autozone and compare the cans to other trim you have lying around.

I just visited my friend and his wife at the hospital yesterday, newborn baby girl. A beautiful thing to see.

37 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

OEM OCVs or aftermarket?  I've seen aftermarket never really work right.  If they are OEMs, then I would be really surprised if they were it.  Aftermarket shouldn't be ruled out.

OEM (or supposed to be.

12 minutes ago, m sprank said:

With the fresh install I would look at afr/ fuel trims and vacuum leaks. If the plug wires were mixed up it probably would not start.  

1 step at a time. 

Yup, I should probably zoom out and start with the basics. Thanks for chiming in

Roger that. I replaced the OCV's during the rebuild (not ruling them out). I'll use my smoke machine that's never gotten use to check all the gaskets/connections as well. Fuel trims, MAF values, oh boy... what a journey this is turning out to be.

I do have an AP, I will pull some logs. Thanks, I appreciate your help. It may be a few days or even a week before I'm able to get to it. This forum is great.

38 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Is she running rough at idle only, or in any driving conditions? Can't remember the details on your car.. But are the 'basics' checking fine? For instance,

-correct timing belt teeth count between pulleys as per FSM

-white coil packs plugs in the front of the engine (cyl 1 and 2) and black in the back

-free of vacuum leaks. Although I'd think you'd need a really massive vacuum leak to begin having misfires. It happened to me a looong time ago when the hoses attached to the blue T under the intercooler popped off. If I read your screenshots right, you have some negative learned fuel corrections which would indicate the opposite (boost leak).

She runs rough mostly at idle stalled out on one occasion. I had trouble starting her up again (in the middle of a Brooklyn intersection, no less) until I have her some gas. This may be fuel related but I smell absolutely no fuel in or around the vehicle. I counted the teeth per the FSM twice when installing the belt, not that I'm ruling it out. I will check the coilpacks when I get home - I've made that mistake once before but don't think it's the issue this time.

I do have a feeling this is vacuum/boost related since I just finished reassembling the engine and am not well versed in that stuff. The tuner did fix my issues enough to dyno her, but perhaps he missed catching any number of my mistakes. When I installed all the vacuum/boost lines I replaced them with silicone hose and zip tied them. However, I did not learn about reinforced silicone hose in time, I wonder if ballooning/collapsing can cause any issues at idle.

This was existing before the vinyl wrap, sorry if that was misleading.

No, that's ok. I will fiddle with them next time my head unit is out. Thank you, though!

1 hour ago, blackobxt said:

Man why do your jdm controls seem reasonably bright 

The VFD filter needs to be swapped from the EDM unit:

Is it possible the orientation of the VFD filter can affect the light appearance? I remember swapping the VFD filter for my install but it is still dim.